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captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Dec 14 02:39PM -0800 I needed to convert the VGA output from my laptop to either S or composite video. I purchased this converter and although I can get it to display on the video monitor the picture appears as though the vertical is running off frequency. Naturally there is no way to adjust this on most equipment these days. And there does not seem to be any way the address this in the converter either. I tried selecting different refresh rates and resolution settings on the computer but nothing seems to make a difference. Does any one have any ideas? Thanks, Lenny.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGA-to-TV-RCA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-S-video-Box-for-PC-Laptop-Windows-Mac-/111867988250?fromMakeTrack=true

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Dec 15 08:04AM -0500 > I needed to convert the VGA output from my laptop to either S or composite video. I purchased this converter and although I can get it to display on the video monitor the picture appears as though the vertical is running off frequency. Naturally there is no way to adjust this on most equipment these days. And there does not seem to be any way the address this in the converter either. I tried selecting different refresh rates and resolution settings on the computer but nothing seems to make a difference. Does any one have any ideas? Thanks, Lenny.   > http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGA-to-TV-RCA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-S-video-Box-for-PC-Laptop-Windows-Mac-/111867988250?fromMakeTrack=true   Lenny,   Assuming you are doing this because you have a old large screen display you want to use, are you setting the computer for a 3x4 aspect ratio?   Regards, Tim

Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Dec 15 08:29AM -0600 On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 14:39:21 -0800 (PST), captainvideo462009@gmail.com wrote:   >I needed to convert the VGA output from my laptop to either S or composite video. I purchased this converter and although I can get it to display on the video monitor the picture appears as though the vertical is running off frequency. Naturally there is no way to adjust this on most equipment these days. And there does not seem to be any way the address this in the converter either. I tried selecting different refresh rates and resolution settings on the computer but nothing seems to make a difference. Does any one have any ideas? Thanks, Lenny.   >http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGA-to-TV-RCA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-S-video-Box-for-PC-Laptop-Windows-Mac-/111867988250?fromMakeTrack=true Lenny,   The video output resolution has to be 640 X 480. Chuck   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Dec 15 06:54AM -0800 > I needed to convert the VGA output from my laptop to either S or composite video. I purchased this converter and although I can get it to display on the video monitor the picture appears as though the vertical is running off frequency. Naturally there is no way to adjust this on most equipment these days. And there does not seem to be any way the address this in the converter either. I tried selecting different refresh rates and resolution settings on the computer but nothing seems to make a difference. Does any one have any ideas? Thanks, Lenny.   > http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGA-to-TV-RCA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-S-video-Box-for-PC-Laptop-Windows-Mac-/111867988250?fromMakeTrack=true     We watch OTA TV. As of the first of the year we will be losing our present NBC affiliate out of Boston. We live in Southern New Hampshire and I've been reading that the replacement is a low power Boston UHF station that will barely reach one third of the present Massachusetts viewing area. So NH is probably going to be a dead area for that signal. Consequently we may very well be watching NBC programming on the computer. This is what happens when a cable company like Comcast has an opportunity to purchase a network.   I'm presently using XP Professional. I didn't see any provision in control panel/display to set an aspect ratio. Would that parameter affect vertical frequency though? I could probably scrounge up an old TV around here with a vertical hold pot but even if it does provide adjustment would it even sync? What am I missing here? Lenny

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Dec 15 10:51AM -0500

avagadro7@gmail.com: Dec 14 05:32PM -0800 http://www.helminc.com/helm/resource-center/ford-service-manuals-repair-information.htm   buy a manual.   The Ford E250 I drive replaces parts ...2 ...to adjust camber. Then there would be other adjustments in the tie rods.   I doahn know how to do that. I assume from what I do know the adjustment/repair process was designed for 3rd world conditions in Missouri.   I have a 544 Volvo. A 544 is adjustable at the home garage level, designed for this.   I had not considered this until watching a Mustang alignment check in the pits with a tape measure poss for rectangularity or a modification of. The adjustment is in the manual but I had not done followed thru.   However, a check by a serious amateur mechanic prob doesn't cover the same ground as the alleged sophisticated equipment operated by knowledgeable trained technicians ... if the expensive tires are wearing oddly. Or maybe it does. Try it.   Unusual tire wear is the start. Keep an eye on tire wear n measure tread depth.

avagadro7@gmail.com: Dec 14 05:43PM -0800 > I had not considered this until watching a Mustang alignment check in the pits with a tape measure poss for rectangularity or a modification of. The adjustment is in the manual but I had not done followed thru.   > However, a check by a serious amateur mechanic prob doesn't cover the same ground as the alleged sophisticated equipment operated by knowledgeable trained technicians ... if the expensive tires are wearing oddly. Or maybe it does. Try it.   > Unusual tire wear is the start. Keep an eye on tire wear n measure tread depth.   \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\     a controllable area is the driving surface n driving 'habit'   we have 2 in our front yard: one, a sweeping banked turn replacement for the 19th century boundary 90 degree turn and 2, road by Monroe....a county line road surface height border.   If the sweeping corner is driven with force, the abrasive surface will eat tires.   The county line is problematic. Every expletive deleted time that ridge is driven thru the front end wears out. I raise the front end braking hard n releasing before the ridge raising the front in rebound. I should drive around but the drive is long n complex compared to the ridge.   The two are 200 yards apart.

John Harmon <HarmonJohn@example.com>: Dec 15 09:30AM Scott Dorsey actually said:   > is ABSOLUTELY NO EXCUSE for someone to bring out the smoke machine for that > sort of leak unless they are trying really hard to find ways to bill their > customers for something.   This is dead wrong. Everyone knows that hack. It doesn't work for the E39. It might have worked for 1970's era cars, but not the E39. There just isn't any change in the engine speed no matter where or how or what you spray on the underside of the plenum. The leak is just too slight and the difference in engine speed too slight and the chance of getting the fuel from the plenum to the plugs too slight.

kludge@panix.com (Scott Dorsey): Dec 15 10:23AM -0500 >what you spray on the underside of the plenum. >The leak is just too slight and the difference in engine speed too slight >and the chance of getting the fuel from the plenum to the plugs too slight.   If you're just spraying and not poking and prodding that's likely true, and a lot of less severe hose cracks won't get found that way unless you are pulling and stretching on the hose as you're hitting it.   But the plenum is easy, you just squeeze the body and shake it back and forth. Of course, likely you won't even need the spray because it'll come apart in your hands.   You are definitely right that the E39 is a lot more of a pain to find leaks in than the E30 and earlier vintage cars and more sensitive to smaller leaks. Sometimes the smoke machine IS needed. But sometimes you should be able to look at the plenum and see cracks and just replace the damn thing whether or not it's leaking, because you know it's going to start leaking soon. --scott   -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

ohger1s@gmail.com: Dec 14 12:04PM -0800 > Thanks in advance!   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA     I'm not a fan of wholesale recapping quality equipment if said equipment has no history of needing them. A lot of stuff made in the early to late 2000s (and beyond really) are electrolytic killers and that's a different issue.   If you were rebuilding it to send to Mars where it could never be serviced, then go through it top to bottom and left to right. Otherwise, I'll bet that it's got a problem that you'll fix, and you'll find it will work as it's supposed to and just like the other one.   My experience with ReVox is limited to a 70s tuner that I had, and it worked perfectly until I unloaded it a couple of years ago. Hopefully someone with extensive knowledge of your model can give you more specific advice.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Dec 14 08:14PM > Thanks in advance!   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   How do you deal with rubber bits? its awkward enough keeping cassette decks going well past they're sell-by date

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 14 12:17PM -0800 > I'm not a fan of wholesale recapping quality equipment if said equipment has no history of needing them. A lot of stuff made in the early to late 2000s (and beyond really) are electrolytic killers and that's a different issue.   > If you were rebuilding it to send to Mars where it could never be serviced, then go through it top to bottom and left to right. Otherwise, I'll bet that it's got a problem that you'll fix, and you'll find it will work as it's supposed to and just like the other one.   > My experience with ReVox is limited to a 70s tuner that I had, and it worked perfectly until I unloaded it a couple of years ago. Hopefully someone with extensive knowledge of your model can give you more specific advice.   Thanks for this. I have yet to determine why it is represented as "not working other than there is no fuse-holder (or fuse) cap in place. I should be so lucky. But, I promise to report my findings.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 14 12:44PM -0800 On Wednesday, December 14, 2016 at 3:14:31 PM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:   > How do you deal with rubber bits? its awkward enough keeping cassette > decks going well past they're sell-by date   A few things:   a) Revox is direct-drive, dual capstan, three-head. So no belts anywhere. b) The pinch-roller is new, and of an exotic material that should outlast me in any case. They are readily available from several sellers in the US and elsewhere. c) The Revox Cassette drive is considered the most reliable drive, ever. Favorably compared to the Nakamichi Dragon - which does use belts in its secondary functions. d) The same may be written of my A77 road deck and B225 CD player. This last I have had to recap on the audio board (quite convenient to do, by the way) and also re-set the pot-metal frame due to decayed grommets. THAT was a PITA, but well worth it. I used silicon grommets for the replacements - direct from my local plumbing supply house at $0.10 each.   As an aside, I also keep an HK2000 that has more belts than Brooks Brothers. Also mostly replaced from an O-Ring kit from the same source as the grommets.   http://images43.fotki.com/v61/photos/1/2570511/12642512/B215transport-vi.jpg   The B215 has Dolby B & C on board as well. And at over 20 pounds, no lightweight. US$1,400 in 1985.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Dec 15 08:27AM -0600 On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 12:44:03 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"   >The B215 has Dolby B & C on board as well. And at over 20 pounds, no lightweight. US$1,400 in 1985.   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA   The only reoccurring problem I saw with the B215 back in the 80s was that the screws that attached the reel tables to the drive motors would loosen and the deck would intermittently stop during play. A CEO of a major hair care company bought one from us and it had this problem. He got all ragey like because any deck this expensive should never fail. Guess he didn't own any European luxury automobiles.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 15 06:49AM -0800 On Thursday, December 15, 2016 at 9:27:12 AM UTC-5, Chuck wrote: >>Snippage<< \   > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus   The tiniest bit of the wife's clear fingernail polish eliminated that issue without causing future servicing issues. I purchased my unit in nearly unused condition for very little as the owner was upset with it for just that reason. US$100 in 2001. It was on a local for-sale bulletin board where I worked. I offered to fix it for him, but he was done with cassettes by then.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

learn electronics <zayed.vec7@gmail.com>: Dec 15 04:49AM -0800 The Virtual Electronics Club Is established to support Engineers with creative and innovative ideas and build a unique electronics culture among their members to build and design electrical circuits. Virtual Electronics Club is the world's #1 source for sharing ideas on electronics, get news on electronics, interviews, electronics projects, videos, tool reviews and more! http://www.virtualelectronicsclub.com/

Nightlight <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1056@example.com>: Dec 15 03:37AM responding to http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/studiomaster-powerhouse-vision-12-167701-.htm , Nightlight wrote:   -- what makes you think there isn't?     Everything works except feed to power amps!

Nightlight <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1056@example.com>: Dec 15 03:37AM responding to http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/studiomaster-powerhouse-vision-12-167701-.htm , Nightlight wrote:   --   I've done enough SM powered mixers mate.   Just never come across this problem before...   --     --

Nightlight <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1056@example.com>: Dec 15 03:37AM responding to http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/studiomaster-powerhouse-vision-12-167701-.htm , Nightlight wrote:   -- Very true Gareth but I assure you they are all in the correct place.   Thank you for your reply :)

avagadro7@gmail.com: Dec 14 06:05PM -0800 > > They don't get even.   > > They go for over unity! ;-)   > would have to know what type of alternator it is. many with an internal regulator need a positive voltage thru a resistor to charge at an idle. on many units, the resistor was the bulb in the idiot lite on the dash. units with gages had a resistor wired in. i dont recall the specs on the resistor. without that connection, there would be no charge at idle. the regulator would kick in at around 2000 rpm and charge. it would then charge fine at an idle , until the regulator cut out. with that load thru a bulb or resistor, the regulator doesnt need 2000 rpm to cut in.   Ford 2008 E250 does this when asked to power an inverter connected to the battery not Ford's computer system. The inverter has a whistler warning. If whistling on startup, the inverter is buttoned off then RPM raised to abt 1200 for 10 seconds then inverter on run back to cab n drive off before the damn thing changes its attitude. I assume this is the 'battery saver'   If the battery saver sees the load on the inverter is too high then on the second fail to restart with running ie not whistling inverter we give up n drive for 20minutes n stop to do over. The ectra charge usually runs inverter at a lesser load.   The saver is simple minded about its task. If 2 CTEK chargers are connected to inverter then a non whistling inverter is unlikely. One CTEK is probable but not 2. A CTEK is not asking for much voltage but... 2 buzzing at once is prob too much for the saver.

avagadro7@gmail.com: Dec 14 05:51PM -0800 http://www.powerstream.com/tech.html

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