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"Mr. Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com>: Dec 23 12:14AM +0800 'Leap Second' to Be Added on New Year's Eve This Year   Full story: <http://www.space.com/33361-leap-second-2016-atomic-clocks.html>   Revelers will get to celebrate New Year's Eve for a tiny bit longer than usual this year.   A "leap second" will be added to the world's official clocks on Dec. 31 at 23 hours, 59 minutes and 59 seconds Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), which corresponds to 6:59:59 p.m. EST; the clocks will read 23:59:60 before ticking over to midnight. The goal is to keep two different timescales in sync with each other.   The units of time had long been defined based on Earth's rotation relative to distant celestial bodies. But that changed with the invention of atomic clocks in the mid-20th century; scientists then decided to base the second on the natural vibrations of the cesium atom. [How to Build the Most Accurate Atomic Clocks (Video)]   These two timescales don't match up exactly, however. Measurements show that, because the moon's gravitational pull and other factors are gradually slowing Earth's spin, the rotation-based scale loses between 1.5 and 2 milliseconds per day compared to atomic time �� meaning the two diverge by a full second every 500 to 750 days.   Leap seconds are a way to make up for this difference. Since 1972, the International Earth Rotation and Reference Systems Service (IERS) �� the organization that keeps track of time for the world �� has added 26 leap seconds to atomic clocks, with the last such insertion coming on June 30, 2015.   The aim is to keep the two timescales within 0.9 seconds of each other.   "We can easily change the time of an atomic clock, but it is not possible to alter the Earth's rotational speed to match the atomic clocks," officials with the U.S. Naval Observatory (USNO), which maintains the Department of Defense's master clock, noted �� wryly, it would seem �� in a statement today (July 6).   While Earth's rotation rate is slowing, the effect is quite subtle.   "Confusion sometimes arises over the misconception that the occasional insertion of leap seconds every few years indicates that the Earth should stop rotating within a few millennia," USNO officials wrote. "This is because some [people] mistake leap seconds to be a measure of the rate at which the Earth is slowing. The 1-second increments are, however, indications of the accumulated difference in time between the two systems."   When leap seconds are added, they are always inserted on June 30 or Dec. 31 of a particular year. In 1972, IERS officials called for a leap second to be inserted on both dates.

Frank Baron <frankbaron@example.com>: Dec 21 11:28PM On Wed, 21 Dec 2016 16:22:54 -0500, Meanie advised:   > Keep in mind, the industry standard requires patches within right to > left tread area only and never to patch a hole larger than 1/4".   Thanks for the detail, as all the holes I patched were screws or bolts, so, they're pretty small, and, as others said, all were within the "tread" area.   > Also, > low profile tires have shorter sidewalls and offer greater strength over > higher sidewall tires.   That's interesting as I can infer from that the lower-profile tires have a slightly greater area of patchability, all other things being equal.     > Yes, they will flex at the edge and down the sidewall but the tread > portion remains in contact with the road. IMO, a plug or patch anywhere > along the tread area should hold if prepped properly.   That's interesting that the patch can go to very edge of the tread. I had previously thought it could only go in the "middle" of the tread.   > A patch roughly 1" to 1 1/4" in diameter is sufficient but I also > recommend a patch/plug combo if one can be used. Otherwise, it is > important to ensure that proper prep is performed.   I knew about patchplugs, but I didn't have any so I made my own patchplug with a plug first, cut flush, and then a patch.   Seems to me, in the end, the kind of patch and then plug that I did should work though, as they're essentially the same thing in the end, right?   > In the areas you plugged, if you're just using a plug, there is no need > to remove the tire, You can simply plug the hole from the outside.   Thanks. I actually knew that (but you didn't know I knew that). I was removing the tire anyway, so as to get experience with breaking the bead and reseating the bead.   So I plugged it first from the outside, and then patched it from the inside. Seems to me that should be good enough for government work, but I don't know (which is why I ask).   > There's no need to cut the plug on the inside. But in those open areas, > a patch/plug is better.   I agree a single-piece patch-plug is better than either a patch or a plug alone. I suspect a two-piece patch-and-then-plug is still better than either a patch or a plug alone.   Does that also make sense to you? > if you want to ensure a good seal. You protrude the plug from the inside > out. The patch makes contact with the inner tire and the plug sticks out > from the tread. That is where you cut using a pair of dykes.   That does seem like a far more elegant solution than the path-and-then-plug that I came up with on my own.   > straddling out. As it makes contact with the road, it will help seal the > area from the outside. Even if the hole is inside a tread, cut if flush > with the top of the tread. As the tire wears, so will the plug stem.   Thank you for that advice. I figured it had to be flush, but your argument that it doesn't need to be flush as it may seal better not being flush and that it will wear with the tire makes sense.

Frank Baron <frankbaron@example.com>: Dec 21 11:28PM > And steel belts are hell on plugs, and if fractured can really cause > problems with tread squirm and tire integrety.   Hi Clare,   I patched five tires with the goopy string plugs, and then cut them flush on both sides, and then put a patch on top of the plugs.   I know they sell a one-piece patch-plug, but that seemed like overkill for my tests so I just wonder what you recommend for two-piece plugs if a one-piece patch-plug isn't around.   Would you do it the way I did it, or differently?

Frank Baron <frankbaron@example.com>: Dec 21 11:36PM On Wed, 21 Dec 2016 18:25:31 -0500, Meanie advised:   > painting a motorcycle helmet halts it's ability to protect, patching or > plugging a motorcycle or car tire is dangerous, etc. and I've have yet > to hear. read or experience any mishaps related from such an event.   I realize you're talking to Clare, but I want to say I agree with you that warnings such as "don't run with scissors" are great, but they're essentially useless because nobody ever gets hurt while running with scissors (so to speak).   Specifically, Clare told me that my patch is a "disaster waiting to happen", which, other than the treadwear, I don't see where he gets that from.   Sure, I didn't use a single-piece patchplug, but, my question is whether anyone sees a *safety* issue with the way I did these tires?   a. Is the patch too large or too small? b. Is the goopy plug a safety issue? c. Is the location on the tire a safety issue.   Other than treadwear, I don't (yet) see any safety issues with my repairs.     > won't dispute the possibilities, but I also believe many warnings are in > place for the manufacturer to protect themselves from liability and > warranty. Thus, each person should proceed at their own risk.   Again, I agree with you. It's like that warning on plastic bags not to suffocate people with them. They're not useful for someone who is thinking about what they're doing.   Which is what I'm trying to do here.   > product because it has a minor flaw. Could I be at risk? Possibly, but > it's a risk I've taken often and I'm willing to take again due to the > 100% success rate thus far.   In an emergency, you'll be glad you have those skills! I'm trying to obtain those skills now, before the emergency too.

Wade Garrett <wade@cooler.net>: Dec 21 06:55PM -0500 On 12/21/16 2:15 PM, Frank Baron wrote:   > Any advice you can provide (that is intended to be helpful) is welcome > because I always want to learn (but advice saying have it done at a shop is > not going to be helpful).   Guess everyone needs a hobby ;-)   -- You can't get rich in politics unless you're a crook. - President Harry Truman

Meanie <meanie@gmail.com>: Dec 21 06:25PM -0500 > even if it does not cause loss of control. I've seen fenders (wings to > our British friends) torn off or totally destroyed by an exploding > tire belt, and the side of a travel trailer totally demolished.     I agree about the damage a tire can do   Throughout the years, I have often heard warnings such as dropping or painting a motorcycle helmet halts it's ability to protect, patching or plugging a motorcycle or car tire is dangerous, etc. and I've have yet to hear. read or experience any mishaps related from such an event. Not saying it hasn't happened, but I've yet to hear about such a case. I won't dispute the possibilities, but I also believe many warnings are in place for the manufacturer to protect themselves from liability and warranty. Thus, each person should proceed at their own risk.   I have done many repair jobs on car and motorcycle tires to save money while growing up. I do so now cause I know how even though I can afford to have it done or replace a product but I cannot see replacing a good product because it has a minor flaw. Could I be at risk? Possibly, but it's a risk I've taken often and I'm willing to take again due to the 100% success rate thus far.

clare@snyder.on.ca: Dec 21 08:36PM -0500 >product because it has a minor flaw. Could I be at risk? Possibly, but >it's a risk I've taken often and I'm willing to take again due to the >100% success rate thus far. a repaired Michelin X came apart on a friend's Rover 2000 sedan in Zambia and it took the rear febser and wheelwell apart. The rear tire in my brothers Dodge Aspenn (a Zeta 40M from UniRoyal - back in 1972) lost it's belt at 70mph on the Burlington Ontario Skyway bridge and did a lot of damage and almost killed him. I've seen tires with the steel belt badly rusted and kicked over an inch to the side without coming apart - but the tire wagged the car like a dog's tail.. When you do something dangerous it usually DOES work just fine - until it doesn't. That said, the warnings ARE there to protect the manufacturer - and are followed by concientious businesses to keep their liability insurance rates low enough to be able to stay in business.   Repairing your own tires is your own risk, primarily.

"James Wilkinson Sword" <invalid@something.com>: Dec 22 01:57AM > Is it that the patch won't hold? Why? > Is it that the patch will flex too much? > Or is it that the belts are damaged and they will break?   They're TYRES. TIRES means run out of energy. Learn basic English.   -- The most effective way to remember your wife's birthday is to forget it once.

rbowman <bowman@montana.com>: Dec 21 08:28PM -0700 On 12/21/2016 12:15 PM, Frank Baron wrote: > a. Mount and dismount a tire at home > b. Patch a tire at home > c. Balance a wheel at home   Next time the bike needs new shoes I'll give you a shout. Then there's patching the tire in the woods or in some random parking lot. I don't balance them. With knobbies, how would you ever know?

rbowman <bowman@montana.com>: Dec 21 08:33PM -0700 On 12/21/2016 06:57 PM, James Wilkinson Sword wrote: > They're TYRES. TIRES means run out of energy. Learn basic English.   http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/for-the-first-time-in-nearly-150-years-indias-economy-surpasses-that-of-united-kingdom/articleshow/56064690.cms   How does it feel to be trailing India? Stick a fork in the UK and its quirky spellings; it's done.

"Steve W." <csr684@NOTyahoo.com>: Dec 22 12:55AM -0500 Frank Baron wrote: > Is it that the patch won't hold? Why? > Is it that the patch will flex too much? > Or is it that the belts are damaged and they will break?   None of those are sidewall related. I will plug/patch a tire with usable tread right to the edge of the tread mold. You are still in multiple ply area there.   I won't patch a sidewall on a passenger vehicle but on something like a tractor, loader or skidder I don't have a problem using a chunk of live rubber and vulcanizing it in, I've even stitched some together and patched them. Toss a tube in to hold the air if needed.   -- Steve W.

"Steve W." <csr684@NOTyahoo.com>: Dec 22 01:11AM -0500 Frank Baron wrote: > my tests so I just wonder what you recommend for two-piece plugs if a > one-piece patch-plug isn't around.   > Would you do it the way I did it, or differently?   For practice on techniques the cheap string plugs are good. They will even work on a good repair as long as you prep the hole correctly.   I have a variety of different repair materials depending on the tire and it's intended use.   A mushroom plug gun that works great as a quick plug, and they get used a lot on lawn, ATV and golf cart tires. http://www.stopngo.com/   Good string plugs - http://safetyseal.com/index.php   combo patch/plugs and boots, plus various other supplies. http://www.blackjacktirerepair.com/   -- Steve W.

Frank Baron <frankbaron@example.com>: Dec 22 11:39AM On Thu, 22 Dec 2016 00:55:50 -0500, Steve W. advised:   > None of those are sidewall related. I will plug/patch a tire with > usable tread right to the edge of the tread mold. You are still in > multiple ply area there.   Thanks Steve. I didn't know it at first but now I know that you want the patch/plug to be in the area within the steel circumferential belts.   Apparently the edge of the belts is a DMZ of sorts though ...

Frank Baron <frankbaron@example.com>: Dec 22 11:39AM > Repairing your own tires is your own risk, primarily.   And don't run with scissors in your hand!

Frank Baron <frankbaron@example.com>: Dec 22 11:39AM On Thu, 22 Dec 2016 01:11:13 -0500, Steve W. advised:   > For practice on techniques the cheap string plugs are good. They will > even work on a good repair as long as you prep the hole correctly.   That's good advice.   As for "prepping" the hole, all I know is you're supposed to "ream" it with the auger provided in the kit.   That auger worked for larger (bolt) holes but small nail holes were too small. I needed *power*.   I'm wondering if I can slice off the auger and put it in a drill. Anyone done that? > I have a variety of different repair materials depending on the tire and > it's intended use.   My home patch kit contains: a. T-handled auger & insertion tools b. Grease pen (white) c. Pliers (needlenose) d. Patches e. Vulcanizing cement f. scraper (wire brush works faster)   What else is needed? (ah, I see the answer below) > A mushroom plug gun that works great as a quick plug, and they get used > a lot on lawn, ATV and golf cart tires. > http://www.stopngo.com/   Ah, that would be a nice tool to have! It's fast - but for home use, we don't really need fast.   I wonder if it fits the RMA (rubber manufacturers association) guidelines which seem to require a patch and a plug whereas this is mostly just a plug.   > Good string plugs - > http://safetyseal.com/index.php   Interesting that their string plugs are nylon yarn, with 250% rubber!   > combo patch/plugs and boots, plus various other supplies. > http://www.blackjacktirerepair.com/   That's a very nice site for tools and supplies!   I love the fact the standard (we can assume that's P type?) wheel weights are inexpensive, at about $7 for a box of 25 which is about 30 cents each. http://www.blackjacktirerepair.com/coated-steel-fe-weights-1-1-1-1   A box of 50 1-1/2 inch 0.453-inch diameter rubber valve stems is $16 which is about 30 to 35 cents each. http://www.blackjacktirerepair.com/vs-414   It's interesting they have "euro style" and "usa style" radial tubeless tire patches (what's the difference? Is it just metric sizes?) at http://www.blackjacktirerepair.com/patches-boots   I *love* that site as it seems to have all that we need (I am looking for a better wire buffing brush, for example).

Frank Baron <frankbaron@example.com>: Dec 22 11:39AM On Wed, 21 Dec 2016 20:28:28 -0700, rbowman advised:   > Next time the bike needs new shoes I'll give you a shout. Then there's > patching the tire in the woods or in some random parking lot. I don't > balance them. With knobbies, how would you ever know?   If this group were named ladies.cookies_and_crochet, then the question wouldn't be apropos of how to decide when a tire is repairable.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 22 04:26AM -0800 If I were the only driver on the planet, and never drove closer than 500 meters from another living creature, this discussion might be relevant at the level of detail incurred so far.   But, I drive on crowded roads with other drivers who have lives of their own. And the occasional school bus with a few dozen children on board. And the occasional fluids-tanker or propane tanker with flammable and explosive materials on board.   So, here we are on the Pennsylvania Turnpike (Speed Limit: 70). And my left-front tire shatters on a curve. I start spinning into the other lane and waffle a school bus into a gasoline tanker. *POOF*.   Turns out that the tire-removal, patching, balancing and re-installation were all mine, using Harbor Freight tools based on advice received in this venue.   What is my ethical position? Pretty wretched in any case, and probably criminal.   It is very clear, at least to me, that this idiot in search of a village has the ethics of a politician, the morals of an evangelical preacher and the wisdom of a common housefly. And all this blather is about avoiding 'bad news' and having to take responsibility for his actions. Why would I go to a mechanic to align my vehicle, patch a tire or do any number of other fairly simple tasks? Because that mechanic is trained to see things that I do not. That mechanic (and ours are very, very good) will tell me what I need to know whether I like it or not. And my mechanic DOES use the right tool for the job, does not accept "good enough" and more.   Do not engage with this creature. It will ask and ask and ask the same question in many different ways and in many different venues until it gets the answer it wants. And then it will take action based on that answer and take those results out on the road with other innocents, hang the consequences. I hope, when Horatio/Norman/John/frank is finally awarded his richly deserved, far-to-long delayed Darwin Award, it is a solo action and does not involve group participation.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

FromTheRafters <erratic@nomail.afraid.org>: Dec 22 08:32AM -0500 It happens that Wade Garrett formulated : >> Or is it that the belts are damaged and they will break?   > Gotta' ask....what is your ongoing fascination with tire > dismounting/mounting/repairing ;-)   Someone told him he would be re-tiring soon, so he wants to learn how from the experts here. Someone should explain to him what was really meant.

AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org>: Dec 22 07:45AM -0600 On 12/21/2016 9:33 PM, rbowman wrote:   > http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/for-the-first-time-in-nearly-150-years-indias-economy-surpasses-that-of-united-kingdom/articleshow/56064690.cms   > How does it feel to be trailing India? Stick a fork in the > UK and its quirky spellings; it's done.   Oh, 63 million Brits equal the output of a billion-plus Indians? Wake me if anything exciting turns up.   -- Andrew Muzi <www.yellowjersey.org/> Open every day since 1 April, 1971

The Peeler <finishingoff@TheRevd.invalid>: Dec 22 12:19PM +0100 On Thu, 22 Dec 2016 01:57:42 -0000, Birdbrain Macaw (now "James Wilkinson"), the pathological attention whore of all the uk ngs, blathered again:   >> Is it that the patch will flex too much? >> Or is it that the belts are damaged and they will break?   > They're TYRES. TIRES means run out of energy. Learn basic English.   I told you already many times, Birdbrain, you NEED to get a dictionary!   -- More from Birdbrain Macaw's (now "James Wilkinson" LOL) strange world: "Someone (a Scotsman) once told me he doesn't bother wiping his arse if he's about to have a shower anyway." MID: <op.ymnjpttr8hfnum@red.lan>

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Dec 21 04:10PM -0800 > Not a toroid. Remember, this is a Revox - never use one part when >three-or-more will do better. There is a clear plastic clam shell over the windings but under the end bells. It is also a 'double C' core.   > I am trying to avoid multiple transformers -   ** Then using a custom toroidal is the obvious way to go.   Are the no winders set up in your part of the world?         .... Phil

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 21 04:13PM -0800 Many. Getting prices.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park PA

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Dec 21 02:51PM -0500 In article <01f5802b-4edd-48e1-9216-80bbb818d031@googlegroups.com>, makolber@yahoo.com says...   > So in each case the answer is ...it depends.   > I think it would be a gross exaggeration to say that digital TV is environmentally more friendly compared to analog because of power consumption.   > m     There is another factor also. For the same bandwidth there can be several low resolution TV 'chanels' on the same ammount of bandwidth as one analog tv chanel.

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