- Hot swapping CMOS batteries - 3 Updates
- Lithium powered things not charging? - 1 Update
- wire conductivity - 2 Updates
| Peabody <waybackNO584SPAM44@yahoo.com>: Jan 10 11:42PM -0600 The standard instructions for changing out a desktop CMOS battery say you should turn everything off and unplug the power cord. But I wonder if guys who do this kind of stuff for a living don't hot swap the batteries with the power on, or at least leave the power cord plugged in so the always-on 5V supply provide power to the CMOS. That should prevent losing the contents of the CMOS memory, including the TOD and the BIOS settings. On a related question, I also have an old Toshiba Satellite L35 laptop that I'd like to replace the CMOS battery on. It looks like I would have to take the entire laptop apart so I can remove the motherboard, turn it over, and replace the battery. Or, it turns out I can see the battery through the side of the wireless compartment, and I should be able the cut a window in the bottom of the case through which I could switch out the battery, then hot- glue the window back in place. Is there any reason not to do it that way? It's a lot more likely the laptop would survive the latter procedure. |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 11 08:09AM On 11/01/2017 05:42, Peabody wrote: > bottom of the case through which I could switch out the battery, then hot- > glue the window back in place. Is there any reason not to do it that way? > It's a lot more likely the laptop would survive the latter procedure. Yes, I added a tag to the battery line, so I could easily swap the battery , while jumpering in an external battery supply with a bit of a dropper resistor |
| mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Jan 11 12:58AM -0800 On 1/10/2017 9:42 PM, Peabody wrote: > bottom of the case through which I could switch out the battery, then hot- > glue the window back in place. Is there any reason not to do it that way? > It's a lot more likely the laptop would survive the latter procedure. Problem with doing anything with the power on is the unexpected. Suggest you at least put some tape on the battery so you have something to hold onto while you try to pry it out. The other issue is the reset. Assuming you have a reason/symptom to change the battery, it may be that the state of the memory is compromised. I've had laptops with rechargeable CMOS batteries that wouldn't run after I manually recharged them. Removing/waiting/replacing the charged battery fixed it. |
| sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Jan 10 03:37PM -0500 T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> writes: Try it with a genuine charger for the tablet. An iPhone charger may not charge an iPad. iAnythings seem to shut off before going totally flat. I don't know about others though. --- sam |
| Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Jan 10 01:32PM -0600 Phil Allison wrote: > voice coils - enamel coated of course. > The advantage is lower weight compared to pure copper, leading to more dBs > per watt. Yes, that is definitely one place where it makes sense! The wire in my Magneplanar speakers is made that way, although it isn't a coil. Jon |
| Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Jan 10 01:39PM -0600 isw wrote: > to learn the new techniques and so on that were mandatory to install the > stuff safely. It was only when it was installed just like Cu that it was > prone to overheating. If the wrong wire terminal combination is installed, then your house WILL burn down, guaranteed! If you use the right CO/ALR fittings EVERYWHERE, then over time you will STILL develop poor connections. You can go around and tighten all the terminals in your breaker box and outlets and switches every ten years or so. But, it is STILL a risk, even with all the right parts, as the wire just keeps creeping out from under the terminals. And, of course, some people wired up their houses with those incredibly awful poke the wire in the hole switches and outlets, which even with all copper wire make poor connections after a few years. Jon |
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