Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 13 updates in 3 topics

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Jan 11 08:14PM

"Peabody" <waybackNO584SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:20170111-054242.340.0@Peabody.ssl.astraweb.com...
> supply provide power to the CMOS. That should prevent losing the contents
> of
> the CMOS memory, including the TOD and the BIOS settings.
 
There doesn't seem to be any logic to hot swapping a CMOS battery - many
motherboards have a jumper header to discharge the smoothing caps on the RTC
rail - it holds for at least a few minutes with the battery out.
 
Usually you don't even know it needs replacing till boot up reports a CMOS
checksum error - then I just fit a new battery and load optimum defaults.
There's only a couple of values I need to set manually.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 11 08:56PM

On 11/01/2017 20:14, Benderthe.evilrobot wrote:
 
> Usually you don't even know it needs replacing till boot up reports a
> CMOS checksum error - then I just fit a new battery and load optimum
> defaults. There's only a couple of values I need to set manually.
 
The clue for me , is progressively worsening internal clock timekeeping.
Incidently , hot soldering a tag, remove the power from the soldering
iron before soldering , while still hot
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 11 08:09AM

On 11/01/2017 05:42, Peabody wrote:
> bottom of the case through which I could switch out the battery, then hot-
> glue the window back in place. Is there any reason not to do it that way?
> It's a lot more likely the laptop would survive the latter procedure.
 
Yes, I added a tag to the battery line, so I could easily swap the
battery , while jumpering in an external battery supply with a bit of a
dropper resistor
mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Jan 11 12:58AM -0800

On 1/10/2017 9:42 PM, Peabody wrote:
> bottom of the case through which I could switch out the battery, then hot-
> glue the window back in place. Is there any reason not to do it that way?
> It's a lot more likely the laptop would survive the latter procedure.
 
Problem with doing anything with the power on is the unexpected.
Suggest you at least put some tape on the battery so you have
something to hold onto while you try to pry it out.
 
The other issue is the reset. Assuming you have a reason/symptom
to change the battery, it may be that the state of the memory is
compromised. I've had laptops with rechargeable CMOS batteries
that wouldn't run after I manually recharged them.
Removing/waiting/replacing the charged battery fixed it.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 11 11:11PM -0800

On 2017/01/11 12:56 PM, N_Cook wrote:
 
> The clue for me , is progressively worsening internal clock timekeeping.
> Incidently , hot soldering a tag, remove the power from the soldering
> iron before soldering , while still hot
 
Propane soldering irons work very well for this sort of thing -
ungrounded...
 
John :-#)#
 
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Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Jan 12 11:19AM -0500

sound.service@btconnect.com: Jan 12 04:41AM -0800

Hi,
 
I need to ID a diode. It is in the regulation circuit of an old 28v Power Supply.
 
http://wallyheider.com/wordpress/2014/08/the-birth-of-the-3m-m56-16-track-audio-recorder/
 
Markings are Z104 (twice) and CDC.
 
There are other diodes on the board in the 1N4001 case style/size, but this one is slightly longer and thinner and has a black shiny coating, not matt.
 
 
 
There is a schematic on the Interweb for this machine, but this supply does not correspond to that circuit.
 
 
 
Cheers,
 
 
Gareth.
frank <frank@invalid.net>: Jan 12 01:46PM


> There are other diodes on the board in the 1N4001 case style/size,
> but this one is slightly longer and thinner and has a black shiny coating,
> not matt.
 
the Z in the marking might indicate a zener diode. Is the original part
dead? If so, your best bet is to reverse-engineer the schematic so to
guess better what is the right substitution.
A power supply shouldn't be that hard to fix.
 
HTH
Frank
JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com>: Jan 12 09:20AM -0500


> Cheers,
 
> Gareth.
 
The old Lambda power supplies used a FBM-Z104 6.2V Reference diode.
Make sense?
sound.service@btconnect.com: Jan 12 06:53AM -0800

On Thursday, January 12, 2017 at 2:20:12 PM UTC, JC wrote:
 
> > Gareth.
 
> The old Lambda power supplies used a FBM-Z104 6.2V Reference diode.
> Make sense?
 
 
 
That makes perfect sense.
This is a Lambda supply, the diode is almost certainly a Zener.
 
Thanks very much!
 
 
Gareth.
sound.service@btconnect.com: Jan 12 08:03AM -0800

On Thursday, January 12, 2017 at 2:20:12 PM UTC, JC wrote:
 
> > Gareth.
 
> The old Lambda power supplies used a FBM-Z104 6.2V Reference diode.
> Make sense?
 
 
 
 
Supply still not working with new 6.2v zener.
Do you know of any schematics for this? The PCB is Lambda HAL-01-006.
 
 
 
Cheers,
 
 
Gareth.
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jan 11 02:19PM -0800

On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 at 11:38:54 AM UTC-8, Jon Elson wrote:
> isw wrote:
 
[about aluminum house wiring]
 
 
> If the wrong wire terminal combination is installed, then your house WILL
> burn down, guaranteed! If you use the right CO/ALR fittings EVERYWHERE,
> then over time you will STILL develop poor connections.
 
I've seen poor connections with copper wire, too; many industrial plants
are wired with heavy aluminum (I've done some of it). I don't know about CO/ALR
specifically, but there ARE effective ways to use aluminum wiring.
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jan 11 05:52PM -0500

In article <2a4f8197-96df-4bc9-8970-829f1f2ff50b@googlegroups.com>,
whit3rd@gmail.com says...
 
> I've seen poor connections with copper wire, too; many industrial plants
> are wired with heavy aluminum (I've done some of it). I don't know about CO/ALR
> specifically, but there ARE effective ways to use aluminum wiring.
 
I don't know about all large plants, but the one I worked at would go
around every year to all the motor control centers and run an scan with
an infered camera to check for hot spots.
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