- Finding the correct power adapter for a no-name brand music stand light. - 5 Updates
- Diode ID - 3 Updates
- Hot swapping CMOS batteries - 3 Updates
| "David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jan 12 01:24PM -0800 The stand light looks like this: https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.long-mcquade.com%2Ffiles%2F19166%2Flg_light-2.jpg&f=1 but the light I have has only 9 LED's. The only information on the battery is 3.7 volts and it looks like this: https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.pi-supply.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2014%2F12%2F2011-03.jpg&f=1 however my battery does not have any amp-hr rating written on it. My question is, how can I figure out what voltage and current rating the power adapter needs to be in order to power the light and charge the battery efficiently? If I put 4.0V on the input jack without the battery installed, the lamps seem to light up fine. If you look closely inside the battery wrapper, you can see an attached pc board. The wiring from the DC jack goes to a series diode, then a transistor, then to the red wire extending out of the neck of the lamp where the LED's are attached. There is also a blob of round black stuff on the main pc board that looks like it could be covering a uP. Thanks for your replies. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
| whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jan 12 03:16PM -0800 On Thursday, January 12, 2017 at 1:23:44 PM UTC-8, David Farber wrote: > The stand light looks like... > The only information on the battery is 3.7 volts and it looks like... OK, that's a Li-ion rechargeable cell. > My question is, how can I figure out what voltage and current rating the > power adapter needs to be in order to power the light and charge the battery > efficiently? It's not so much 'efficiency', but safety that you should be concerned with; presumably there's voltage and current charging limitations (I'd guess 0.1 to 1 ampere of charging current), plus whatever your LEDs require (could be up to one half ampere). The voltage must not get more than 4.3V, typically, on such a battery (but that could be regulated in the power adapter, OR inside the lamp circuitry). The circuitry and envelope around the battery are intended to prevent fire. The prudent course is to find another identical unit, and get an exact match to its wall tumor charger. Otherwise, you need to reverse-engineer the charging scheme of a poorly documented battery that has the potential to burst into flame if mistreated. This kind of problem is why cellphone chargers are USB micro-B with 5V output: no one could get the right charger when they needed it, and nations passed laws... |
| "David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jan 12 10:15PM -0800 whit3rd wrote: > 5V output: > no one could get the right charger when they needed it, and nations > passed laws... Thank you for the detailed explanation. I will try and get some information about the chargers that come with similar stand lights containing Li-ion batteries. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
| Peter Gierschner <oskarx@gmx.de>: Jan 13 12:21PM +0100 Am 12.01.2017 um 22:24 schrieb David Farber: > round black stuff on the main pc board that looks like it could be covering > a uP. > Thanks for your replies. can you show us the power-connector of the lamp? peter |
| Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Jan 13 03:27PM +0100 The battery cell is a rechargeable one. This explains the diode and transistor. So a standard 5V 3A power supply is enough. But according to what you say, the battery is empty ; needs a 24-hour recharge. David Farber a écrit : |
| sound.service@btconnect.com: Jan 12 08:43AM -0800 > Cheers, > Gareth. Oops, I'm an eejit, there are 2 Remote Sense connections on the PSU output that are required to be connected, the PSU is now running fine. Cheers, Gareth. |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 12 09:11AM -0800 > Supply still not working with new 6.2v zener. > Do you know of any schematics for this? The PCB is Lambda HAL-01-006. First, a possible source for help would be: http://www.us.tdk-lambda.com/hp/service.htm Then, it has been my experience that when the Zener goes, it is only after much else has gone. Test _ALL_ the diodes (they are cheap enough anyway), and _ALL_ the caps. Without delving any deeper, is this a solid-state supply? If so, I would be checking the VR chips throughout. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| "Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Jan 12 11:31PM wrote in message news:4974db18-5c56-48f8-bdb7-b9625fbcbf41@googlegroups.com... On Thursday, January 12, 2017 at 11:03:03 AM UTC-5, sound....@btconnect.com wrote: > Supply still not working with new 6.2v zener. > Do you know of any schematics for this? The PCB is Lambda HAL-01-006. First, a possible source for help would be: http://www.us.tdk-lambda.com/hp/service.htm Then, it has been my experience that when the Zener goes, it is only after much else has gone. Test _ALL_ the diodes (they are cheap enough anyway), and _ALL_ the caps. Without delving any deeper, is this a solid-state supply? If so, I would be checking the VR chips throughout. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA This PSU is all discrete, the only problem was the Zener, fortunately. There is a fair amount of circuitry here. Thanks to all who replied, Gareth. |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jan 12 12:06PM -0500 In article <alpine.LNX.2.02.1701121118090.31166@darkstar.example.org>, et472@ncf.ca says... > name also, but there was something about an "iso-tip". Since it didn't > plug in, you could use it where other irons might not be safe. > Michael Wal made them, maybe still do. They started out making battery powered shavers. Maybe that was just another product to that line. The main usage was for places that you did not or could not get a cord to. I had one and used it because it was quick heating when I only wanted to make one or two quick connections. Did not have to wait for the wall powered unit to heat up. Now I have an iron that heats up in just a few seconds. |
| "Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Jan 12 08:36PM "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message news:o56624$li0$1@dont-email.me... > The clue for me , is progressively worsening internal clock timekeeping. > Incidently , hot soldering a tag, remove the power from the soldering iron > before soldering , while still hot IME: The time and date data usually survives - but it surprises me every once in a while. |
| "Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Jan 12 08:37PM "John Robertson" <spam@flippers.com> wrote in message news:wPGdnb7WJrWnserFnZ2dnUU7-WudnZ2d@giganews.com... >> iron before soldering , while still hot > Propane soldering irons work very well for this sort of thing - > ungrounded... Even so - I wouldn't bother hot swapping a soldered in CMOS battery. |
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