Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 9 updates in 6 topics

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Jan 24 06:38AM -0800

On Friday, January 6, 2017 at 1:43:02 AM UTC-5, Jon Elson wrote:
> without having to keep checking if it stopped.
 
> Any comments?
 
> Jon
 
Jon
I hate to say it but I have to side with Jurb there. We just recently went through our fifth coffee maker. Each time one of these pieces of shit fails I go down to the basement and get the trusty old GE out of the box. This was a wedding present in 1977 and in spite of the old lady's complaints about how stained it is, etc I've refused to get rid of it. In over 40 years I think I replaced a thermistor in it. Otherwise it's never failed us. (Hey I like the way the old veteran looks on the counter too and I think I've finally convinced her that we just went through our last crappy coffee maker).
 
I can relate similar stories about our refrigerator, toaster oven, and electric range.
 
The washing machine though is another story. It's a Maytag A106. Look it up if you want. It was the 1966 model. A simple helical drive piece of technology. My mother gave it to us in 1979 when they moved to Florida. It slid halfway down a flight of stairs while moving it and continued to work for another 20 some odd years until it started leaking. I rebuilt it with tub seals, bearings, transmissiom reseal etc. It was a big job but was worth every penny. I also replaced the motor with one from the town dump at some point over the years too. There are no electronic sensors and no microprocessor. Just a simple electro mechanical design. And it continues to work. Yes it may use a bit more water as well as electricity than one of the a new piece of shit models out there but perhaps one day my grandchildren will be using it. I doubt that you can say the same about anything that is built today.
 
My dishwasher is a Kenmore and 20 ears old too and also electro mechanical. I just replaced the motor in that last year. Keep your old stuff. because once you get rid of it you've screwed yourself because you can never get it back. Lenny
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 24 08:14AM -0800

Voice of Dissent here:
 
We had an old Maytag at our summer house that ran like a champ - and used 40 gallons of water per full cycle. This is water that we have to pump, heat, and then dispose of *on site*. We use propane for heat via a tankless heater, so there is excellent efficiency - but.
 
We found a used LG "energy star" front loading unit that for the equivalent load uses eight (8) gallons of water per cycle, uses 1/3 of the additives (detergent and/or bleach) and is a good deal more quiet. We paid $250 for it. It runs about 25 loads per year, so that comes to 800 gallons of water saved in a very fragile environment, not to mention the chemicals not used. That we are on a Class A trout stream makes us perhaps more sensitive than some - but the principle is pretty much the same.
 
The unit has been in place now for four years. So far, so good and it was used.
 
At home our 8-year old similar LG (and how we came to choose the one at the summer house) runs about 9 loads per week, and has performer flawlessly. We do the maintenance (clean out the drain valve periodically, run a hot/hot with cleaner about twice a year and so forth. But as to its operation - no problems so far of any nature. That comes to about 120,000 gallons of water saved: 32 x 9 x 52 x 8 = 119,808. Again, not to mention the chemicals not used, the energy saved and so forth. Hot water savings alone are $120/year. Electric savings about 1/3 of that, so $160 per year. Assume 0 cost for a vintage Maytag, and $1,200 for the LG - We are now +$80 with whatever more time we get on the LG. I am not factoring in the water cost, or sewer cost as they are directly tied together. But, 120,000 gallons is not insignificant.
 
It is entirely possible to purchase well made appliances. And with reasonable care, they will last relatively indefinitely.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 24 11:50AM

Firstly does VR stand for Visual Replica, LM3875 amp with 1 valve, a bit
smaller and lighter than the original.
Originally thinking channel change sw prob as dirty ch good, clean
cutting out (with owner). All PbF looks good under magnifying ispection
lamp, any known stock fault?. It looks like return to engraving tool
with nylon tip rattling pcb while listening to output on phones
technique to zero in + redo usual suspect solderings
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 24 06:22AM -0800

Nutcase Kook wrote:
 
 
> Firstly does VR stand for Visual Replica
 
** Google has the answer - look it up you lazy fucking shit.
 
 
 
 
.... Phil
"Mr. Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com>: Jan 24 08:21PM +0800


> "A problem has been detected and Windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer. If this is the first time you have seen this stop error screen restart your computer. If this screen appears again follow these steps: Check for viruses on your computer. Remove any newly installed hard drives or hard drive controllers.Check your hard drive to make sure that it is properly configured and terminated. Run CHKDSK/F to check for hard drive corruption and then restart your computer.
 
> Technical information:
> OX0000007B (OXFA2C3640, OXC0000534, 0X00000000, 0X00000000).
 
Unplug all USB devices except keyboard and mouse, and turn on the PC again.
 
What version of Window$?
 
--
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/( _ )\ May the Force and farces be with you!
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不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA):
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Paul <nospam@needed.invalid>: Jan 24 09:08AM -0500

> If you ignore this message the machine goes on to eventually boot to a screen that shows a "control panel" with a grid of 4 video monitors showing. The mouse moves but will not select anything to change what is presented. There is no video supplied for this test.
 
> My son loaned me a couple of old XP discs that he had. One lets me get into a screen with choices that you can make but it apparently goes nowhere. The other does not seem to work at all. If this unit originally came supplied with a disk it is nowhere to be found.
 
> This machine was never connected to the Internet so I can't imagine that it could have a virus. Also there was no replacement or additions to any hardware, so that could not be an issue. I was hoping that perhaps some of you computer savvy guys might have some suggestions for me. My friend doesn't have a lot of money and truthfully I really hate to give up on this thing at this stage of the game. I've come so far and now I feel like I may be so close. I apologize for the long winded post but I wanted to present all the information. Thanks for any assistance. Lenny
 
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/dcEAAOSw~oFXImvd/s-l300.jpg
 
Take the hard drive, over to your Technician machine.
 
Examine the jumper on the IDE drive, and make sure you select
a setting consistent with whatever is on your IDE cable already.
)Master/Slave or Cable_Select/Cable_Select and so on).
 
You can use Macrium Reflect Free to clone or image it. Clone is
useful, if you have a new drive, and want to move the contents over.
 
http://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.aspx
 
I would have a spare drive ready, to take a copy of the drive
the first time you power up the Technician Computer. Just in
case the drive is nearly dead or something.
 
You can use a utility to check the S.M.A.R.T. I use the Reallocated
Sectors raw data value as an indicator of health. (zero equals good)
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.M.A.R.T.
 
The drive can also be benchmarked with HDTune, as bad spots in the
drive, read out slowly. And a read benchmark (not a write benchmark)
can spot this condition.
 
*******
 
The back of the unit, the I/O area looks like the
I/O plate on a microATX board. There could be a
microATX motherboard inside the unit.
 
And such a PCB could have a CR2032 CMOS coin cell, for maintaining
the time setting, as well as the BIOS settings. The coin cell
should measure about 3.1V or so, from the top surface of the cell,
to any metal ground structure you can use for a ground connection.
 
The coin cell is a nuisance to get out of the socket. Do not
use too much force. I told one poster to check the cell,
and he comes back later and tells me he has ripped the
CR2032 socket off the motherboard. Don't do that...
 
If the company who designed it, did a good job, the "BIOS defaults"
established by "Load Setup Defaults", should match the normal settings
used to make the PVR boot. It really should not require programming
after a battery replacement, to make it work. An item of that vintage
is likely IDE (ribbon cable only), and only the boot order could screw it
up. It isn't likely to support RAID (the motherboard maker can shave
$3 off the cost by using the lowest cost SKU for the Southbridge chip).
And I don't know what else could be preventing it from booting.
While it could be corrupted, it does seem to have a readable
MBR and IDed itself at boot time. Some portion of the disk, must
load, in order for that message to print on the screen. I'm favoring
the CMOS coin cell at this point, but it's still possible to
stop the boot, with only a single bad or missing file on C: .
 
Certainly the dilapidated condition (rotting ribbon cable),
that doesn't sound good. There are plenty of root causes for
something that "ripe". I have ribbon cables here that are
18 years old, and they're mint. It's even possible the unit has
operated with a high internal temperature for a while (cooling
failure maybe). Cooling fans, might have an average 24/7 life of
3 years. The power supply on that unit does have a grille, and
there is probably a 40mm fan on the PSU. Something that old,
probably does not have a "low power" CPU in it, so could cook
whatever sits inside the box with it, if the fan goes out.
 
I'm surprised with 14 bulging caps, that it even survived
without burning any MOSFETs or toroids. If you managed to
repair that without ruining the motherboard, you really
are CaptainVideo :-) If I did 14 caps in a row, the board
would be toast. On these computer motherboards, it's easy
to lift the foil. I changed out a voltage regular (14 pins),
and managed to lift one pad on it. And I was being careful.
 
Paul
elvillafane@gmail.com: Jan 24 04:38AM -0800

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Jan 23 10:10PM

"Percival P. Cassidy" <Nobody@NotMyISP.net> wrote in message
news:eekik2Fi1deU1@mid.individual.net...
> UPSes because they have no cooling and are designed so that during the
> short time the standard battery lasts they will not reach an unsafe
> temperature.
 
All I've seen so far had "snapper disk" thermal cutouts. Don't know the
correct name, but usually a small bakelite cylinder with a swaged on
aluminium cap and 2x 1/4" spade terminals and are usually mounted by a loose
flange with 2 screw holes. The active bit is a bi-metal disk that is bowed,
it snaps to bowed the other way when it gets hot.
 
You'll always find one on the magnetron/fan duct housing in a microwave
oven, they can turn up in pretty much anything that could overheat.
Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Jan 23 01:22PM -0500

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