sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 25 12:51AM > You do have a point.   > However, if you comb your hair *JUST* right, perhaps no one will notice.   WHAT?? I CAN'T HEAR YOU. CAN YOU SPEAK UP? IT'S HARD TO HEAR YOU OVER THE SOUND OF ALL THESE CRYING LIBERALS.

mogulah@hotmail.com: Feb 25 07:46AM -0800 On Friday, February 10, 2017 at 8:36:53 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:   > It may have worked well at one time. Actually my friend died and this > was among his things. So eEven though I have other, better, and similar > meters, I'm reluctant to throw it out.   That's understandable. Second-hand stuff doesn't always tell you its history. Sometimes you need meters to be accurate. Sometimes not, I guess.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 25 02:28PM Stored indoors for some years and then powering up, missing notes and some top panel sw functions missing. full sm here http://www.synfo.nl/servicemanuals/Roland/JX-3P_SERVICE_NOTES.pdf same 2 notes ,not each octave , but as keyboard is scanned as 8x8 matrix keys 8n and 8n-2 are missing , n= 1 to 8. Hopefully that means the 74LS138 3 to 8 demultiplexer did not survive 1/3 century,internal metalisation creep or something, rather than main micro problem.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 25 03:52AM -0600 >at least several thousand Watts. I borrowed a set of ear muffs and sat back >for a show!   >Jon   I was at several Grateful Dead concerts in the late 60's and afterwards. I never saw any such thing. Are you sure you were not "tripping"? That may have just been a common 6L6 tube in a guitar amp, and your hallucinations made it look really BIG.... :)   Who ever heard of wearing earmuffs at a Grateful Dead concert.....   And since you mentioned it. What the hell is wrong with them British? Valves are plumbing parts. Tubes are electronic parts!!!   Seriously, I have heard of using AM transmitter tubes for audio amps. I dont know what those tubes are numbered, or how much power they output, but I know that many AM radio stations have power output in the thousands of watts range. But to use that kind of tube would require custom output transformers that would likely mimic the pole transformers used to feed our homes....   And just for historic value, the original 1969 Woodstock concert ran Somewhere between 3500 watts to 12,000 watts, using Mcintosh mi350 monoblock tube amps for their PA system. The article below seems to conflict whether it was 3,500W or 12,000W. Either way, that PA system had to cover a very large area, and apparently it did the job.   http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100811   These Mcintosh MC3500 power amps have EIGHT power output tubes 6LQ6/6JE6B. These amps had an output of 350W. (mono).

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Feb 24 06:47PM -0500

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 25 04:32AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 24 Feb 2017 18:47:01 -0500, Michael   >I've taken some apart, and I don't see anything but the LEDs. So they >have to be in parallel, and rely on the bettery itself to supply some >level of series resistance.   Sometimes one or two of the bulbs go out, so I think that also means parallel.

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Feb 25 10:20AM +1100 On 24/02/17 17:05, micky wrote:   > More things I should have known in advance**.   > So if one SIM is removed, will the other do 3G, regardless of which SIM > is left in?   I think so, but it probably depends on the phone.   The advertising for the phone will often say "2nd SIM, standby only", which is the give-away that it's only 2G or worse.   > Or does it have to be in slot #1?   Again, it probably depends on the phone. Only one can log in to the 3/4G network. I think that a true dual SIM phone needs to duplicate parts of the networking hardware so it acts like two phones; but I am not an expert in such things.   > (I just got the second SIM in the mail today, but I can't use it until > mhy trip starts in 2 weeks.)   I wanted a dual SIM phone so I can get SMS (and possible family emergency calls) while using local data. In any place where 2G has been shut down, that doesn't work, so I might as well just have a single SIM phone, and switch over each evening to get delayed SMS.   > **Actually today is far better to learn this than after my trip. It's > not in advance of buying the phone but it's in advance of using this > part.   Well, I've just bought a new dual-SIM phone, but not because it was dual-SIM.

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Feb 25 01:41AM THanks. Well, worst case, I'll use up th eminutes on redpocket then switch to H2O     - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}--- [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards] [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]

ohger1s@gmail.com: Feb 24 06:47PM -0800 On Friday, February 24, 2017 at 12:41:28 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:   > LOL. Which part of it made you feel that way?   > That you didn't know what H2) or Redpocket are. I don't either but I > just feel ignorant.       A Redpocket is something I thought I might find in a Redcoat..     > If you don't know what Saturday is, you're definitely old.   Ah... reprieved (I think). If "Saturday" is still the sixth day of the week, I've got at least some time left!

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 25 02:31AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Sat, 25 Feb 2017 10:20:28 +1100, Clifford   >I think so, but it probably depends on the phone.   >The advertising for the phone will often say "2nd SIM, standby only", >which is the give-away that it's only 2G or worse.   Darn. It's not mentioned in "advertising" but gsmarena I've looked at many times and it didn't seem important until just now:   Dual SIM (Mini-SIM/ Micro-SIM, dual stand-by)   But that's still not conclusive I think. Maybe it's only stand-by when it's dual, and if I disable one sim, maybe that's not dual anymore.   But I won't be able to find out, because I don't even one of the right bands for G3 on my trip. Maybe I can tell while I'm still in the US....... It doesn't show G3 but I don't know if it ever does.   If I learn anything I'll try to post it here.     >to the 3/4G network. I think that a true dual SIM phone needs >to duplicate parts of the networking hardware so it acts like >two phones; but I am not an expert in such things.   Fair enough. I had no plans to buy another phone, but if I dislike G2 and I plan another trip, maybe I will.   >> part.   >Well, I've just bought a new dual-SIM phone, but not because it >was dual-SIM.   They're more common each year.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 24 05:16PM -0600 >working correctly, then spends a week getting weaker and weaker where I >have to turn up the controller all the way and even then the heating is >uneven and weak.   I bought an electric blanket several years ago that did the same thing. I'm not sure what brand it was. From what i have read online, this seems to be a common problem with most of all electric blankets, regardless who makes them.   I wont buy another electric blanket. I just adjusted the vents in the house so more heat comes to my bedroom, and bought a nice quilt.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Feb 24 06:42PM -0800 > who makes them.   > I wont buy another electric blanket. I just adjusted the vents in the > house so more heat comes to my bedroom, and bought a nice quilt.   It's not a matter of insufficient room heating; at -10F outside I can get my upstairs to 85F if I was so inclined, plus there are an infinite number of possibilities for space heating these days, including pseudo fireplaces with heat for those with older more drafty homes.   My second floor is about 1600 sq ft, and I like to keep the temp down at night to save heating costs in the NE U.S. and the wife and I like sleeping in a cool room.   The problem is that I don't like getting into a 62F bed when my feet are already cold from the day. An electric blanket or heated mattress pad allows a nice warm bed to get into without heating the entire second floor of my home. Lots of people like these things. Too bad they can't perfect them.

krw@notreal.com: Feb 24 08:30PM -0500 >> on this side of the pond.   > From what my friend says, there is no small element of "the money comes >from the one most able to pay". We get that here sometimes.   It's called "joint and several liability".

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 25 12:16AM In article <n0b1bc1agjpqo6l6es1kijs5nj4rhe8no3@4ax.com>, oldschool@tubes.com says...   > top view > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hammond_Aurora_Classic.jpg   Wow, looks like the sort of thing that should rise into view in a cinema on a lift being played very ostentatiously (Carlo Curley or Liberace?)...   Mike.

"Kenny" <me@privacy.net>: Feb 25 01:27AM wrote in message news:n0b1bc1agjpqo6l6es1kijs5nj4rhe8no3@4ax.com...   I could not resist buying this. A heavy Hammond Organ. It appears to be from the early 70's. A local second hand store had it for $5 marked (AS-IS). The wooden cabinet is near perfect. But there is no plug on the cord, so they could not test it (and they dont do any repairs).   I was hoping it had tube electronics, but it appears to be solid state, meaning that if there are circuit problems, I probably wont be able to fix it, since I only work with tubes. But I already know the speakers in these organs are worth a lot more than $5, and I can see making something from the wooden cabinet.   This is likely one of the most complex pieces of electronics I ever will attempt to fix. Then again, for all I know, it may work once I put a plug on the cord.... (It looks like the plug was torn off when they moved it).   Either way, I know I got my $5 worth of parts at the least...   This thing is heavy, heavy, heavy.... The workers at the store were all women and did not want to help load it. And I have physical problems which limit me. So I still need to get some guys to help me with it next week. I just paid for it and they have my name on it, marked SOLD.   Before I left, I wrote down the model #.   I am NOT finding any schematic online. If any of you know where to find one, it's a model # 227214. Appears to be called a "Aurora Custom 1 (AV28)" (from what I could find online).   I am no organist, but if I can get this thing working, I know I'll have fun with it....   photos of the innards of a similar model: https://monkey.org/~smart/hammond/index.html   top view https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hammond_Aurora_Classic.jpg   This any help? https://archive.org/details/HSM4952016 Maybe try this forum: http://www.organforum.com/forums/   Kenny

"Kenny" <me@privacy.net>: Feb 25 01:30AM "Kenny" wrote in message news:EPqdnZUh17YZQC3FnZ2dnUU78cHNnZ2d@brightview.com...   wrote in message news:n0b1bc1agjpqo6l6es1kijs5nj4rhe8no3@4ax.com...   I could not resist buying this. A heavy Hammond Organ. It appears to be from the early 70's. A local second hand store had it for $5 marked (AS-IS). The wooden cabinet is near perfect. But there is no plug on the cord, so they could not test it (and they dont do any repairs).   I was hoping it had tube electronics, but it appears to be solid state, meaning that if there are circuit problems, I probably wont be able to fix it, since I only work with tubes. But I already know the speakers in these organs are worth a lot more than $5, and I can see making something from the wooden cabinet.   This is likely one of the most complex pieces of electronics I ever will attempt to fix. Then again, for all I know, it may work once I put a plug on the cord.... (It looks like the plug was torn off when they moved it).   Either way, I know I got my $5 worth of parts at the least...   This thing is heavy, heavy, heavy.... The workers at the store were all women and did not want to help load it. And I have physical problems which limit me. So I still need to get some guys to help me with it next week. I just paid for it and they have my name on it, marked SOLD.   Before I left, I wrote down the model #.   I am NOT finding any schematic online. If any of you know where to find one, it's a model # 227214. Appears to be called a "Aurora Custom 1 (AV28)" (from what I could find online).   I am no organist, but if I can get this thing working, I know I'll have fun with it....   photos of the innards of a similar model: https://monkey.org/~smart/hammond/index.html   top view https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hammond_Aurora_Classic.jpg   This any help? https://archive.org/details/HSM4952016 Maybe try this forum: http://www.organforum.com/forums/   Kenny   http://www.terapeak.com/worth/hammond-aurora-custom-model-227222-227214-schematic-diagram-nos/371534107566/

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 07:15PM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 24 Feb 2017 16:46:20 -0500, Pat >>who is normally a stickler for things, agreed that I didnt' have to have >>a battery to run the alarm, since outages are so rare here.   >That seems like an odd thing for your friend to say. Alarm systems   Thanks for all the advice. It will be valuabe for many people.   He knows the kind of crimes that happen here, and he knows them by neighborhood too (a few years ago he had 800 or maybe it was 1200 customers) , and where I live they don't use fancy tricks like cutting the power or phone lines. Did I mention I don't live near the Vanderbilts, or even any doctors or lawyers. (there also aren't many burglaries because a lot of burglars know there is more money in other n'hoods** )   Where I live they break in. If an alarm goes off, they grab what they can quickly and they leave quickly.   We did discuss routing the phone line, whether the alarm needed to interrupt the phone line to the phones (because that would be difficult to arrange here. The phone line no longer goes to the basement. I just use a cordless phone in the basement, where the alarm is, so the alarm telephone line and the telephone telephone-line are wired in parallel.). He pointed out three reasons why it should.   If the alarm is between the phones and the phone company, were I on the phone when the alarm went off, the call would be interrupted, and that would indicate (though not 100%) that the alarm had gone off. But I would also hear the siren , whether I'm on the phone or not. He knows that but he was being complete. (Plus I don't set the alarm when I'm home. Maybe if I get old and feeble I will.)   If he wants to do remote maintenance to the alarm, it works better, but he pointed out, all I would have to do is turn off my phone answering machine and not answer the phone.   If the alarm does not disconnect the phones, when the burglar comes in he can take a phone off the hook and stop the alarm from dialing out. (Is that true. i thought since touch tone, one phone could dial out even if another phone was off the hook. (I think I tested this once.) I thought the burglar would have to dial a number or two before the alarm finished, or started, dialing. That's not so hard because the phone doesn't dial absolutely immediately. It gives the owner a 10 or 20 seconds to put in the code for example. Maybe he meant all that but he simplified it for me.)   >your house. Same with the phone lines used to dial out for help. It >is easy to cut land lines. That's why newer alarm panels often use >cellular.   He sells those too.   > Not perfect, but it takes more knowledge and equipment to >jam a cellular call than to cut landline phone wires.   ** Not many burglaries. 9 years ago I went away for 8 weeks, couldn't get the alarm working in time, but the house was unchanged when I got back. And I've seen houses sit vacant for months without any damage at all. OTOH, kids broke into one vacant house and used it as a clubhouse until the police scared them out. And 34 years ago, the first summer, someone kicked open my front door though he didn't steal anything***, and another time two lawnmowers were stolen (both were very broken), and another a crummy bicycle without a seat or post was stolen. but the last two incidents didn't require going into the house.   ***My burglar alarm was sitting on the bed or the floor, in pieces. I hadn't taken taken the parts out of the boxes yet. But I stayed home from work the next day and installed it.

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Feb 24 03:05PM -0800 In article <d2f86a4c-134a-4190-842d-ff71fe58f1b6@googlegroups.com>, ird...@gmail.com says...   > I was going to buy one of those cheap digital Oscilloscope kits off of eBay but was told to check with this group and ask if anyone has a old working used Analog Oscilloscope that they would donate to me so I could test the circuits I have been building . I really like tinkering and have learned a lot in the past 2 years and a Oscilloscope would be my next piece of test equipment.   Yes, having a trainer kit (trainer board), an oscilloscope and sitting in an elecronics or electrical apprenticeship class is a great way to start out.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.