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oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 24 04:59PM -0600 I could not resist buying this. A heavy Hammond Organ. It appears to be from the early 70's. A local second hand store had it for $5 marked (AS-IS). The wooden cabinet is near perfect. But there is no plug on the cord, so they could not test it (and they dont do any repairs).   I was hoping it had tube electronics, but it appears to be solid state, meaning that if there are circuit problems, I probably wont be able to fix it, since I only work with tubes. But I already know the speakers in these organs are worth a lot more than $5, and I can see making something from the wooden cabinet.   This is likely one of the most complex pieces of electronics I ever will attempt to fix. Then again, for all I know, it may work once I put a plug on the cord.... (It looks like the plug was torn off when they moved it).   Either way, I know I got my $5 worth of parts at the least...   This thing is heavy, heavy, heavy.... The workers at the store were all women and did not want to help load it. And I have physical problems which limit me. So I still need to get some guys to help me with it next week. I just paid for it and they have my name on it, marked SOLD.   Before I left, I wrote down the model #.   I am NOT finding any schematic online. If any of you know where to find one, it's a model # 227214. Appears to be called a "Aurora Custom 1 (AV28)" (from what I could find online).   I am no organist, but if I can get this thing working, I know I'll have fun with it....   photos of the innards of a similar model: https://monkey.org/~smart/hammond/index.html   top view https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hammond_Aurora_Classic.jpg

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Feb 24 09:36AM -0800 On Thursday, February 23, 2017 at 2:25:19 PM UTC-5, mike wrote:     > Might want to check that math.   OK. 50 x 9 = 450. 9 LEDs at 50 ma each. 3 x 1000 = 3000. 3 cells at 1000mah each. 3000 / 450 = 6.67. At 450 ma, that will go 6.67 hours.   The reality is probably different as all the shots/assumptions are center-mass. If the LEDs are 100ma outliers, if the cells are 1.4mah outliers, things do change, of course.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Feb 24 01:16PM -0500 On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 09:36:12 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"   >The reality is probably different as all the shots/assumptions are center-mass. If the LEDs are 100ma outliers, if the cells are 1.4mah outliers, things do change, of course.   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA 3 cells at 1000 mah each do NOT give you 3000 mah. They give you 1000 mah but at a higher voltage (4.5 vs 1.5). If you use mwh (watts) instead of mah (amps), then you can add them.   (If the cells are wired in parallel instead of series, then you are correct, but that isn't very common.)

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Feb 24 10:45AM -0800 On Friday, February 24, 2017 at 1:16:23 PM UTC-5, Pat wrote: > instead of mah (amps), then you can add them.   > (If the cells are wired in parallel instead of series, then you are > correct, but that isn't very common.)   The three similar lights I have, they are in parallel. Which is why I probably wrongly assumed these were as well.   Funny thing, these types of lights are often give-away items at Solar Energy conferences - I have been to my fair share, and how they came into my hands. Otherwise I would not touch this cr*p on a bet.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Feb 24 04:35PM -0500 On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 10:45:18 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"   >Funny thing, these types of lights are often give-away items at Solar Energy conferences - I have been to my fair share, and how they came into my hands. Otherwise I would not touch this cr*p on a bet.   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA   I just checked 3 of mine... Two give-aways and one UV of similar design. All three have the AAA batteries connected in series. That got me wondering how the LEDs are wired, but I was too lazy to take them apart. All have 9 LEDs so I will guess 3 sets of 3. Is 4.5v enough to power a 3 LED string? Just went to look it up and the answer to my own question is "no". UV and White LEDs typically have a Vf of 3.3 volts. So, all 9 are in parallel with their own current limiter? If so, why 9? Is there a cheap IC that supports 9 LEDs? If anyone knows, please educate us.   Pat

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Feb 24 01:44PM -0800 In article <383537d2-ce37-4a8e-8685-af05d9983fc2@googlegroups.com>,   >> (If the cells are wired in parallel instead of series, then you are >> correct, but that isn't very common.)   >The three similar lights I have, they are in parallel. Which is why I probably wrongly assumed these were as well.   If they're in parallel, then they almost certainly aren't driving the LEDs directly... a blue LED (with or without a white phosphor) requires more than 3 volts in order to conduct.   So, if they're in parallel and are feeding only 1.5 volts into the LED head, there is probably a voltage-boost circuit (e.g. a "Joule Thief") which is stepping up the voltage before it reaches the LEDs.   And, the step-up comes at a cost. If the Joule Thief has to triple the voltage before it feeds the LEDs, and the LEDs are drawing a total of 100 mA at that voltage, then the Joule Thief will be pulling 300 mA or more out of the batteries.   There ain't no free lunch, alas.   A simple series arrangement is less expensive, but it'll end up wasting some power in a current-limiting resistor (unless the flashlight makers go _really_ cheap) and the flashlight will slowly dim as the battery runs down. A step-up circuit can feed a fairly constant current through the LEDs until the batteries are almost completely exhausted, and it allows for a "variable brightness" feature (pulse-width-modulate the LEDs, or step up to a lower voltage which results in a lower current).

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 24 03:53PM -0600 On Wed, 22 Feb 2017 20:47:57 -0500, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote:   >only noticed because it felt warm in my pocket.   >It's got a proximity sensor but I don't remember what it's supposed to >do.   I buy these at Walmart for $1 each. I use them a lot. I have left them on overnight and they still work, but that greatly shortens the battery life. If they are not left on for long periods of time, they last weeks and that is being used almost daily. For a buck each, I usually buy 5 at a time and that keep me with working flashlites for a few months. I keep one in the car, one in the truck, one in the house and a few other places.   Unless I can buy batteries real cheap at some dollar store, (like 8 batteries for a buck), it's not worth replacing the batteries. I just toss them and buy more flashlights which cost $1 WITH batteries. I have never had any of them get hot or cause any problems at all. I did have a few with switch problems, but very few. Since I have plenty ones with dead batteries, I just swap the batteries from one with a bad switch to one that still works.   I have saved the LEDs from a lot of them that I toss. Not sure why, but some day they might have a use... I guess these are just meant to be used and disposed..... But I have replaced the batteries a few times too.   Either way, they are 1000X better than the old flashlights I grew up with, that had very short battery life and almost always developed switch problems after a month or less.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 24 01:54PM > Funny thing, these types of lights are often give-away items at Solar Energy conferences - > I have been to my fair share, and how they came into my hands. Otherwise I would not touch this cr*p on a bet.   FUNNY THING, THESE TYPES OF SEXUALLY TRANSMITTED DISEASES ARE OFTEN GIVE AWAY ITEMS AT GAY ORGIES. PETER WRECK HAS BEEN TO HIS FAIR SHARE, AND HOW THEY CAME INTO HIS HANDS. OTHERWISE HE WOULD TOUCH SITRE MAGANA'S DICK FOR FREE.

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Feb 24 05:26PM -0500 Pat wrote: > limiter? If so, why 9? Is there a cheap IC that supports 9 LEDs? If > anyone knows, please educate us.   > Pat       I cut open one of the Harbor Freight nine LED flashlights that was damaged. All nine LEDs are in parallel, and all three cells are in series. They use the internal resistance of the cells to limit he current.   The forward voltage of a white LED is typically 3.7 to 4.2 volts, so parallel cells would require a boost converter which would double the cost of the electronics in a flashlight.   BTW, the Harbor Freight flashlight will slip into a cheap microphone boom for a handy bench light.   Mic-Arm-Stand-Microphone-Suspension-Boom-Scissor-Holder-For-Studio-Broadcast   http://www.ebay.com/itm/272436300096   -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Feb 24 02:45PM -0800 > Funny thing, these types of lights are often give-away items at Solar Energy conferences - I have been to my fair share, and how they came into my hands. Otherwise I would not touch this cr*p on a bet.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   It's certainly possible, but it's a bad design tradeoff, and a safety hazard, to put 3XAAA in parallel. I've never seen one that way.   Even if they were in parallel, you'd need about 3X the led current from the batteries, so your math is still questionable. watts from battery x efficiency = watts to led.   The cheapest lights use 3XAAA in series connected directly to the parallel combination of LED's. They ship with "heavy duty" batteries and the series resistance of the batteries limits the current. Alkaline batteries will overheat the LED's. Now you know why the LED's start to flicker after a while.   If you try to run one off a 18650 you'll burn out the leds, even though the 4.2V of the cell is less than the nominal 4.5V of three AAA cells. I had to put 1.5 ohms in series to make it work.   If are really bored, you can cut two FREE Harbor Freight lights in two and solder the parts back together (well, they're aluminum so use something like Welco 52) to make one longer light that accepts a 18650. Don't forget the series resistor. This made a lot more sense back before you could buy a single AA zoom flashlight for $2.   If you take out 8 of the 9 LED's and make the resistor larger, it makes a great emergency light that will run forever during a power outage. Just my luck...we haven't had a power outage since I built it. ;-)

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 02:00PM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 24 Feb 2017 03:35:25 -0600,   >So there is a battery. Looks like you are supposed to add one. The >battery retains settings between power outages (but only however long >the battery can provide power).   Oh, that battery. That's meant to power the panel and the siren and the dialer if there's a power failure. It's not meant to retain things in memory except user-decided things like the time and which zones are excluded. It's not meant to retain defaults. That's what makes them defaults. . When the board comes from the factory, it's not connected to the battery and it stays that way for weeks or months until someone sets up the whole system**, but the contol panel doesn't forget what the default alarm code is. **In fact, my friend who owns an alarm company (but who is not intereted in questions like the one in my OP) who is normally a stickler for things, agreed that I didnt' have to have a battery to run the alarm, since outages are so rare here.   I had looked on the DSC site but the manuals I found need needed permission to be downloaded. I have them in print but to use Find, it helps to have digital copies. Part of your url above is written specifically for DSC and it also linked to a place where I could dl the exact manual that I already have. Thanks a lot

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Feb 24 12:51PM -0800 A few things:   Alarms from the factory have a DEFAULT code built in. It is not, or should not be the code you use on a daily basis, as if so, thousands of others have it. That code is USER DEFINED, after the initial code is entered. Maintaining that user-defined code does require power. Think about why.   So, you need to determine from the manufacturer what the default code is for your make, model and assembly year - which will be from the serial number. In theory, that should give you the default code.   Keep in mind that the manufacturer should not balk at giving this to you as it was either printed or tagged on the device when new. Kinda-Sorta like buying a safe. It comes with 12345 as the combination. Which you change (or not). But if you lose it, it is your problem. Electronics are a bit more forgiving in this sense.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Feb 24 04:46PM -0500 On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 14:00:20 -0500, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote:   >company (but who is not interested in questions like the one in my OP) >who is normally a stickler for things, agreed that I didnt' have to have >a battery to run the alarm, since outages are so rare here.   That seems like an odd thing for your friend to say. Alarm systems have batteries so the bad guys can't disable them by cutting power to your house. Same with the phone lines used to dial out for help. It is easy to cut land lines. That's why newer alarm panels often use cellular. Not perfect, but it takes more knowledge and equipment to jam a cellular call than to cut landline phone wires.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 24 01:50PM > A few things:   > Alarms from the factory have a DEFAULT code built   YOU PROBABLY GAVE THE CODE TO YOUR ALARM TO SITRE MAGANA SO HE CAN COME OVER AND YOU CAN ENJOY WATCHING HIM RAPE A DOG AND SERVICE A 72 YEAR OLD DUDE.

VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH>: Feb 24 04:43PM -0600 micky wrote:   > the dialer if there's a power failure. It's not meant to retain things > in memory except user-decided things like the time and which zones are > excluded.   You cannot program anything without power - unless this panel has dip, toggle, or other types of switches to hardwire in that "data".   Another possibility (already mentioned) is the use of EEPROM; however, there would need to exist power to raise the voltage to burn in the new values. Are there EEPROMs on the PCB?   How can you enter and save a security code without there being power? Electronically it is possible when there exists power that will be saved after power is lost (battery, capacitor, EEPROM) - but you still need power during that operation. From the images I found online, there are no switches on the PCB for that device, just a 4-pin header (S1) where you use jumpers:   http://s3.amazonaws.com/f01.justanswer.com/markpope123/2011-11-19_201731_2011-11-19_12.09.16.jpg   Ah, finally found something:   http://www.alarmsbc.com/dscpwr.htm#832 EEPROM memory - will not lose programming or system status on complete AC and battery failure I couldn't tell from the photos I found online if there was an EEPROM, plus the pics showed the component side of the PCB so I couldn't tell what, if anything, was on the other side. I cannot guarantee the above URL specifies only the 832 since the 5010 replaced it (and they might be showing the specs for the 5010).   An EEPROM still requires power to program it. EEPROM = electrically erasable programmable read-only memory. You need power to erase or program values into its storage. Some EEPROMs have a built-in charge pump to attain the higher voltage while others require external circuitry to apply the higher voltage. But the EEPROM requires power to program it. You said you entered in a new access code. That meant you must have connected it to power.   The values should stay in the EEPROM unless you did something by accident, like after plugging in the A/C power adapter. EEPROMs have a limited number of write cycles but I doubt you have programmed it a million times.   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EEPROM#Failure_modes (another possibility is a bad, weak, or leaky EEPROM)   There is mention of a maximum retention time of 10 years for values stored in EEPROMs. How long has this one been sitting idle and unconnected from power? *Oh oh*, "About 9 years ago I started to install a burglar alarm". I missed than in reading your original post. So you waited too long to refresh the EEPROM and the pics of the PCB don't exude an impression that this one has auto-refresh circuitry but then that would require power, too, and refreshing means more writes (so the EEPROM could get consumed by frequent refreshing).   The AlarmsBC web site has links to free manuals at:   http://www.alarmsbc.com/manuals.htm   I clicked on "DSC" and found 2 manuals for the 832 (5010) depending on the version of the unit. I looked at version 1 of the manual. Page 7 says how to program the access codes. No mention of enabling a switch or jumpering of the S1 header to program the EEPROM. However, there must be power available when using the device, even to program the access codes. There is no troubleshooting section in their manual.   Looks like the *oh oh* problem is that you expected the EEPROM without refresh to retain its values forever. EEPROMs leak the charges (hopefully slowly) but those charges do dissipate over time. 9 years is too close to the 10-year claim for retention (and who knows what quality of EEPROMs went into this device).   [E]EPROMs have a shelf life regarding retention. They have a finite data retention time. DSC probably didn't expect something laying around for a decade to still need to use the same access code. Who'd remember that after a decade's absence? They begin to forget their data after 10-15 years. Yours was on the shy side of that. Mask ROMs don't have that problem because the values are etched (burned) permanently into the chip at production time. There are SuperFlash EEPROMs that claim data retention for 20-100 years (but that's still finite); see http://www.sst.com/technology/sst-superflash-technology/first-generation-esf1. That was introduced back in 1993. Don't know if DSC used any. PC mobos adopted them.   After 10 years of absence (no refresh) with or without power is too long to expect no degradation (data corruption or loss) for EEPROMs.

sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Feb 24 04:42PM -0500 > This new Sunbeam heated mattress pad we picked up last fall will be > used no more than a max of 4 out of 10 (no preheat which does a level > 10 for 30 min).   That's quite possible. All I was suggesting is that forgoing Preheat (which is my favorite mode!) may not do that much comparing it's 20 minutes with the rest of the 10 hours on period even if at the 4/10 setting.   Depending on size, the normal current when in the on part of the cycle is order of 0.5 and 1.5 A. However, since the current decreases as it heats, it's not really possible to provide exact values. But measuring and recording it when cold at the start of each season could be useful.   When first turned on, regardless of whether Preheat is selected, some of these (or all) turn on at a constant (though possibly not full) power for a minute or two before the PWB kicks in.   -- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html   Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Feb 24 02:34PM -0800 On Friday, February 24, 2017 at 4:43:01 PM UTC-5, Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:   > When first turned on, regardless of whether Preheat is selected, some > of these (or all) turn on at a constant (though possibly not full) > power for a minute or two before the PWB kicks in.   We're preheating at 4 and turning down to L before turning off the TV. Ours will never be above 5 unless it starts going weak like the other ones we've had. There is a big difference in initial comfort if the pad or blanket is preheated (even at a low temp) with a comforter over the top of the regular bedspread. For aesthetic reasons, my wife has a half comforter that covers the lower half of the bed, and there is a distinct difference in temp between the lower half and upper when first getting in. With a second comforter on top, you don't need to go above half for preheating if the blanket is still fairly new.

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 24 09:22PM "MJC" <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote in message news:MPG.33194c2971864c29c@news.plus.net...   > Is there anything that I can do for some more diagnosis? The > motherboards is a GA-8ISXT-FS and the PSU FSP300-60ATV with a 20-pin > main power connector.   Inspecting the electrolytic capacitors on both items is the place to start.   An ESR meter would take the guesswork out of it, but the good ones aren't cheap. The most usual sign is bulged tops on the capacitor cans, but they can also appear slightly sunken - if they're running hot enough to build up a head of steam, they can lose electrolyte through the end seal - when they cool, a vacuum forms inside. Since dodgy electrolytics tend to get hot, the plastic covering sleeve can deteriorate giving the capacitor a tired shabby appearance.   If an ATX PSU is reluctant to start; keep trying is a bad idea - they can suddenly burst into life without any regulation!

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 24 10:18PM In article <Jt1sA.573666$he2.19680@fx22.am4>, Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com says... > ... > If an ATX PSU is reluctant to start; keep trying is a bad idea - they can > suddenly burst into life without any regulation!   Thanks - wow, concentrating on the PSU stand-alone and not plugged into the m/b seems like a Good Idea!   Mike.

Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Feb 24 04:11PM -0600 > channel...... (And an output transformer about 3 foot big, weighing > close to the weight of a Harley motor cycle, and costing 10X the price > for a brand new Harley)..... No, certainly not! You use the modulator from an old AM broadcast transmitter. I was at a Grateful Dead concert in 1969 and they wheeled out this THING on the stage with big glass globes, and when they lit up I realized they were TUBES (valves to the British)! Not sure of the type, but at least several thousand Watts. I borrowed a set of ear muffs and sat back for a show!   Jon

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 24 09:33PM "amdx" <nojunk@knology.net> wrote in message news:o8isvk$b26$1@dont-email.me... >> you have any in you junk box please contact me.   > You can't come up with an old portable AM radio to scrap it from? > Go to Goodwill or Salvation Army or a yard sale,   Any portable set old enough to have a 3/8" ferrite rod could have some value as a collectible. Some of the shirt pocket transistor radios with the little ferrite slab are even more valuable.   The all in one pre-micro music centers usually have a proper ferrite rod, as do most separates tuner units.   They have almost no resale value, except high end separates.

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 24 09:35PM "radiotek" <radiotek.12f352d8@diybanter.com> wrote in message news:radiotek.12f352d8@diybanter.com... > ferrite rod.   > I just purchased a few junker radios from ebay and saved a lot.   > I do appreciate you trying to help.   Could be worth researching collectibles values before ripping.   Some might be worth refurbishing.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 24 11:40AM > On Monday, February 13, 2017 at 3:05:42 PM UTC-5, jurb...@gmail.com wrote:   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Laughable Ill-Informed Blaming Entitled Race-Bating Anti-Capitalist Loudmouth

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Feb 24 01:12PM -0800 You do have a point.   However, if you comb your hair *JUST* right, perhaps no one will notice.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Feb 24 01:16PM -0500 On 2/23/2017 11:24 PM, Spehro Pefhany wrote: > and thus the cyclist wouldn't have been hit.   > You can see a smidgeon of that in some of the anti-immigrant rhetoric > on this side of the pond.   From what my friend says, there is no small element of "the money comes from the one most able to pay". We get that here sometimes.   --   Rick C

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