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Spehro Pefhany <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat>: Feb 23 11:24PM -0500 On Thu, 23 Feb 2017 13:49:23 -0500, the renowned rickman >Vietnam and a cyclist was hit. The two drivers started haggling and >bystanders joined in to mediate. In the end it was decided that the >cyclist should get $50. They said my friend should pay.   Yes, typical Asian logic and I'm all too familiar with it- if the foreign devil wasn't there the taxi wouldn't have been carrying him, and thus the cyclist wouldn't have been hit.   You can see a smidgeon of that in some of the anti-immigrant rhetoric on this side of the pond.   --sp     -- Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Feb 24 08:56AM > What (if any) online stores will fit my needs? > Maybe its none of these huge stores, but something smaller...   > Thanks   My old list not updated.   http://www.pitt.edu/~szekeres/mail.htm   Greg

Joe Chisolm <jchisolm6@earthlink.net>: Feb 24 09:54AM -0600 On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 10:03:40 -0600, Joe Chisolm wrote:   > to check availability, price and shipping cost. It also depends on > where you live. I'm 4 hours driving distance from Mouser so normal > UPS ground is "next day" for me.   I got a email yesterday that Newark is doing $5 shipping on orders < $49 and free shipping on orders $49 and over. Cavaet is parts must be in a USA warehouse and shipping to a USA address.     -- Chisolm Republic of Texas

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 02:52AM -0500 How did my alarm code change when I never touched it?   (not a computer but it does have a digitally stored program, and solid state memory for the settings, less than 1000 bytes, I think.)     About 9 years ago I started to install a burglar alarm, but I didn't finish before I had to leave on my trip.   After I got home, I didn't care anymore.   I'm leaving on another trip soon and I started in on the alarm agailn.   Even thogh the trouble light is lit, It didn't need much to hook it up, but I couldn't arm it. Pressing the default arm code just let to a longer error-beep.   Eventually did a reset, what they call a Factory Default Main Panel.   Now the default arm code works.   I'm sure I never changed the code. My previous alarm worked for 15 years or more and I used the default code all that time, never considered chaning it**, and I was still trying to get the thing to work. Another reason not to change it.   So can things like this get messed up just be sitting around?. In my basement with cinder block walls. The only source of radiation is the 30 y.o. oil furnace. That coudln't do it. A small tv in the room too. There's a microwave upstairs.   **There are occasional burglaries around here, but none of these people know what the default alarm code is for anything. It's not like I live on the same street as the Vanderbilts or Morrgans.     BTW, it's funny. I wanted to see if the siren worked but the code didnt' work to arm the alarm. The third time I tried, I noticed the Away button. This contol panel doesn't require a code when leaving because they figure if you got in, you're trustworthy. So I armed it. Then I opened the door until the siren went off. Then I rmemebered I had no code to disarm it!!. I tried the code several times, again, but it didnt' work. I unplugged the thing, but when I plugged it in again, it armed itself. Of course. Otherwise, power failures when the battery is dead would disarm alarms. So I was trapped in the house. Eventually I disconnected the control panel from the siren driver, so it didn't make any noise the next time.

VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH>: Feb 24 02:16AM -0600 micky wrote:   > battery is dead would disarm alarms. So I was trapped in the house. > Eventually I disconnected the control panel from the siren driver, so it > didn't make any noise the next time.   Haven't a clue what is the hardware which you seem to deliberate omit in your posts. Could be the code gets stored in EEPROM but I doubt it since it would take sufficient voltage to reprogram the bits in the chip. Could be there is a capacitor on the PCB used to hold the code. That capacitor discharged long ago so any value stored in volatile memory is gone. Could be a battery is used instead of a capacitor. Just like your PC, a dead battery means the CMOS table's values (a copy of the BIOS and where you do your tweaks, like changing a login password) is corrupted or all values are unusable. That means the BIOS copy of the settings get loaded into the CMOS table.   If it uses EEPROM, something is wrong with the hardware that had it lose your stored code. If it uses a capacitor, well, those things only stay charged for a limited time. If it uses a battery, replace it as it is probably too old and doesn't have enough capacity (might have enough voltage under a no-load test but cannot supply any current, even a tiny bit, without a voltage drop).

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 03:48AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 24 Feb 2017 02:16:25 -0600, >> 30 y.o. oil furnace. That coudln't do it. A small tv in the room >> too. There's a microwave upstairs.   >Haven't a clue what is the hardware which you seem to deliberate omit in   No, I didn't deliberately omit anything. I also didn't include it because I can't imagine anyone here knows details about any brand of alarm panel, who woudln't also know that they're mostly made the same.   It's a DSC Power 832. Does that actually help? There are things about it on the web, and I dl'd some manuals before I found my paper manuals, but I don't they give an answer.   >chip. Could be there is a capacitor on the PCB used to hold the code. >That capacitor discharged long ago so any value stored in volatile >memory is gone.   But then how did resetting the panel get it back? Of course I could ask that question about any answer, I guess.   > Could be a battery is used instead of a capacitor.   I don't think there's a battery. No mention in any manual and I didn't see one. Certainly no coin battery.

VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH>: Feb 24 03:35AM -0600 micky wrote:   > DSC Power 832.   http://www.home-security-systems-answers.com/dsc-home-alarm-is-beeping.html   "... the alarm panel has detected one or more "trouble" conditions. These include things like battery trouble, ..." and "If your DSC home alarm is beeping due to this condition, the main panel battery is low or failing." and "If you've recently had a power outage, wait 24-48 hours after power is restored. The battery may simply have discharged, and will recharge when the electricity comes back on. If the beeping persists, the battery probably needs to be replaced."   There is a link to:   http://www.home-security-systems-answers.com/alarm-system-battery.html   So there is a battery. Looks like you are supposed to add one. The battery retains settings between power outages (but only however long the battery can provide power).

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 02:29AM -0500 I got my new sim, for my trip, today, and the vendor was nice enough to including a warning that if one has not bought a data plan (and I was waiting until I got there) he should disable the cellular data or it will, when prompted to, connect to the internet as pay as you go.   Is it enough to disable background data, or will foreground data start downloading without my realizing it is data? Like if I look at a map and it decides to update the map? Of if I go to look at an already dl'd email, and it decides to get new email? I suppose even email would incur some minimum but substantial charge.   I have version 5 and it appears Android has made it very diffeicult to fullly turn off celluilar data. Only background data is fairly easy.         On the web< I looked into all thist. I have Android v.5, and somone writes in August of 2015: "There is NO convenient mobile data toggle. It does not exist. That's the point. A mobile data toggle existed prior to 4.1, as one of the setting icons, then they eliminated that toggle in 4.+, but 3rd party apps were developed as a work-around. Now, with 5.+ that wasn't good enough, so they blocked 3rd party apps so you can no longer disable mobile data without going through five menu steps to reach it. That means, when you are not in range of your secure WiFi you either run up your data bill or simply have a phone with basic messaging. Make your choice. That's it.   ....We used to be able to use a 3rd party apps to toggle mobile data to stay within our data plans and now that is no longer feasible. It's really nasty and looks intentional as a way to hurt people on lower data plans by dinging them for overages or forcing them to purchase higher data plans because there isn't even an icon that shows if you are on mobile data or not. Hard to believe it's an oversight as you can clearly see the progression of changes from 3.+ to 5.+"   So I looked for mobile data toggle in the play store and there were 8 apps listed, but two of them did something else, and 6 of the rest had something wrong with them. Either they said they wouldn't work with v5, or users said that, or you had to root the phone to use it, or there's an update for 3 versions ending with 4.1.1     So is stopping background cellular data enough, or do you have a better idea?

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 03:57AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 24 Feb 2017 02:29:06 -0500, micky >including a warning that if one has not bought a data plan (and I was >waiting until I got there) he should disable the cellular data or it >will, when prompted to, connect to the internet as pay as you go.   Sorry. Wrong ng.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 03:56AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Thu, 23 Feb 2017 19:41:35 -0000, MJC >to do   >Isn't it just to switch off the screen and touch sensitivity when >adjacent to your head so your ear doesn't swipe at random?   Yeah, that's it. I guess I thought the screen would go off in my front pants pocket too, light weight pants, but it didn't.   I hadn't relied on that, just forgot, and I won't rely on it in the future. I guess my pants pocket won't swipe anything ilke my ear could.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 12:41AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Tue, 21 Feb 2017 16:35:24 -0800 (PST),   >Thanks, for the first time in my life, I truly feel old...   LOL. Which part of it made you feel that way?   That you didn't know what H2) or Redpocket are. I don't either but I just feel ignorant.   If you don't know what Saturday is, you're definitely old.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 01:05AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Wed, 22 Feb 2017 07:14:05 +1100, Clifford >> But they BOTH worked on the DASH JR. CLues?   >Most "Dual SIM" phones are like that. The 2nd SIM only works on 2G, >only one SIM can connect to a modern network.   More things I should have known in advance**.   So if one SIM is removed, will the other do 3G, regardless of which SIM is left in?   Or does it have to be in slot #1? I ask because I too have a Blu phone (Studio X Plus) with 2 sim slots and so I though tI was being clever to get micro the second time so that both could be in the phone at one time. So if "slot 1" is important, Ican't move the SIM anyhow.   (I just got the second SIM in the mail today, but I can't use it until mhy trip starts in 2 weeks.)   **Actually today is far better to learn this than after my trip. It's not in advance of buying the phone but it's in advance of using this part.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 12:28PM > Our summer house - not even 60 A. No AC, but a hot tub, refrigerator, and car charger.   BUT THEN ALL YOU DO AT YOUR SUMMER HOUSE IS HAVE GAY ORGIES. LIKE HAVE A THREESOME IN YOUR HOT TUB WITH SITRE MAGANA AND HIS 72 YEAR OLD BOYFRIEND.

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