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Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Feb 16 02:34AM +1100 > I did have it set up with Thunderbird and AIOE (IIRC) and it did not solve my problem. It still had access issues. Then all that cleared up, but then so did Google, so I just went back to that. It bitches about my browsers but when it says "A problem occurred while communicating with the server" it is NOT a browser issue, especially when the same browser works a half an hour later. So I am not "upgrading" anything. But then if I have to go Thunderbird again I will probably get the new version of that. And it STILL might not fix my problem. Like updating drivers, it does not work, like I have no sound so I need the newer drivers, hows come it worked last week ? Bunch of bullshit.   > Is there free client software out there other than Thunderbird ? Is there something that is really about guaranteed to connect ?   > Or is Usenet slated for a slow death by the PTB because of unmoderated groups and so forth promoting free speech ? (or at least enabling it)   Do they sell pre-paid visa debit cards where you are? Here one can hand over cash and buy one. I prefer those when dealing with small online transactions where I think the card details are likely to get stolen. The most I can lose is whatever cash I handed over to buy (or top up) the card, and to me this is better than the hassle and the cost of my time and perhaps credit rating etc. to deal with trying to do a chargeback through a bank. I can't recall whether I had to show ID when I bought the card - but for my purposes it makes no difference as I am not trying to achieve anonymity.   Regardless of the client software you use, you will need a news provider, and I don't know whether there are any free good ones. ISPs used to provide this included with the internet service but it is getting rare these days. I pre-paid for a block of data (with usenet-news.net iirc) a long time ago. As I don't use binary newsgroups, it will probably last as long as I need without ever paying them again.

"Mr. Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com>: Feb 15 10:15PM +0800 On 15/02/2017 12:40 PM, Phoena Greene wrote: > into > dildos. Even a slut like Raeanne will eventually find that she has enough > dildos, one for every occasion.   To quote the Bible:   Could American magicians turn all e-waste into bread? :)   -- @~@ Remain silent! Drink, Blink, Stretch! Live long and prosper!! / v \ Simplicity is Beauty! /( _ )\ May the Force and farces be with you! ^ ^ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.39.3 不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA): http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_pubsvc/page_socsecu/sub_addressesa

Steve Kraus <screen@SPAMBLOCKfilmteknik.com>: Feb 23 12:59PM -0600 Four of five timers were trending the same way suggesting power line frequency.   From 2/20 to 2/21 to 2/22:   Timer B1 got 47 seconds later then 38 seconds earlier.   Timer B2 got 55 seconds later then 58 seconds earlier.   Timer C1 got 41 seconds later then 32 seconds earlier.   Timer C2 got 82 seconds later then 39 seconds earlier.   Timer D1 got 10 seconds earlier then 14 seconds later.   The B's are nearly identical to the one whose motor I showed. The C's I've never had open. The D's I've looked at but have no clue if it's a sync motor or not. If not, it's kind of funny as that one seems to hew most closely to the expected turn-on time.   Getting a vintage electric wall clock off eBay. Will set it accurately to an NTP server and then watch it for subsequent variations. Inexpensive way to look at this and then ultimately a useful device.

Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Feb 23 03:46PM -0800 Steve Kraus wrote: > Getting a vintage electric wall clock off eBay. Will set it accurately to > an NTP server and then watch it for subsequent variations. Inexpensive way > to look at this and then ultimately a useful device.   Years ago I designed and built a nixie clock with digital TTL counters using mains frequency as timing source. Here in Spain the typical variation I see is between 1 and 10 seconds per day and within some days I've seen it go as far as 30-40 seconds, then slowly correct back. That has been always the behaviour of that clock from 2007 to now. At long term time keeping is good.   I've found this website clock https://time.is/ a good time reference, I successfully calibrated a quartz clock with adjustable trimmer in a few days checking once per day and it kept perfectly aligned for a month. My previous attempts with some cheap DCF77 radio controlled clocks failed, apparently they randomly added or removed a few seconds on each sync.

Steve Kraus <screen@SPAMBLOCKfilmteknik.com>: Feb 23 09:55PM -0600 I just had an idea. I have a UPS sitting around out of service as the batteries went dead and even with good batteries I don't know how long it would run even at very low load. I don't know how precise it is though when I looked at it on a scope it was a nice sine wave and looked stable in frequency compared to the mains. I could rig a 24VDC supply and use the output of the UPS to run my group of timers that I am testing. If the UPS has an accurate output then the timers should be accurate as well. If the UPS is fast or slow then at least the timers will get ahead or behind the same amount each day, not varying like I have observed. Hopefully it would be stable at whatever frequency it is and not go up and down.     Jeroni Paul wrote:

sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Feb 23 03:48PM -0500 > When this one craps out/gets too weak I'll do a post mortem, but I > suspect it uses resistance wire which changes resistance over time. > If the problem is that, then there's no fixing it.   Join the club. :( :) I've had 4 or 5 (yeah I'm a sucker for Sunbeam blankets) but don't want to be too critical of Sunbeam - they have replaced several under warranty and replaced one totally.   Thee typical symptoms are that they do tend to get weaker over time, but some die totally. The weakening may be related to the PTC (Positive Temperature Coefificnt) of resistance of the wire used as the heating element. It's self limiting so claimed to be safer since even scrunching up the blanket should not result in an excessive temperature rise. However, the change in resistance may not be totally reversible. I doubt using preheat makes a big difference. Since the power to the heater is pulse width modulated (around an 80 second cycle - yes, that long!), running at lower heat doesn't necessarily help either.   When they totally die, I assume it's a bad connection issue, possibly at the "module" - the wart attached to the connector, which has a couple of discrete components inside and nothing else.   And I do now record the current used when new. ;-)   Google "Sunbeam blanket problems" or something like. There's a lot out there.   -- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html   Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 01:16PM On 02/23/2017 08:48 PM, Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:   SO IT'S A GOOD THING THAT PETER WRECK DOESN'T NEED AN ELECTRIC BLANKET. WHEN EVER HE GETS COLD HE CALLS OVER SITRE MAGANA AND THEY GET UNDER THE COVERS AND PETER SAYS THAT UNLIKE AN ELECTRIC BLANKET IT DOESN'T USE ANY ENERGY AND AN ELECTRIC BLANKET ALSO DOESN'T GIVE A GOOD BLOW JOB LIKE SITRE MAGANA.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Feb 23 07:11PM -0800 On Thursday, February 23, 2017 at 3:48:20 PM UTC-5, Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:   > Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is > ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the > subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.       I haven't done any real testing Sam, but just spitballing I'd guess that the more the Sunbeam is used, the faster it becomes inert. So, if run at lower temp settings, less heat/time will be supplied by the blanket and the longer it will last (?). I suspect it's decline is not linear, so keeping the temp down by half may quadruple the life..   At least that's my theory and we'll see how this new Sunbeam mattress pad holds up. We had two blankets before this heated pad (both Sunbeam) and both went *very* weak before being replaced. Neither showed any error code at the controller nor went completely cold, so neither suffered a broken wire anywhere. But even at level ten they barely got warm.   This new Sunbeam heated mattress pad we picked up last fall will be used no more than a max of 4 out of 10 (no preheat which does a level 10 for 30 min).

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 04:52PM > I am not a member of any organized political party. I am a Democrat.   O.K. NOW THAT EXPLAINS WHY YOU'RE SO GAY

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 04:54PM On 11/18/2016 02:36 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:     > You posted a link with your account ID. That's not very smart, and > it isn't accessible by anyone else.   WHAT ELSE WOULD YOU EXPECT FROM A FAGGOT DEMOCRAT LIKE PETER WRECK

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 05:02PM >> You posted a link with your account ID. That's not very smart, and >> it isn't accessible by anyone else.   > That is the point of DropBox - it allows one to share large and small files without risking a direct connection. My "account ID" is the sharing link. I have used it for years without incident. Nor is there anything in it that is at all actionable or confidential   I WOULDN'T WANT TO LOOK AT YOUR DROPBOX ANYWAY. I'M GUESSING YOU HAVE A VIDEO RIP OF SITRE MAGANA RAPING THAT DOG AND YOU PROBABLY HAVE JPEGS OF SITRE MAGANA BLOWING THAT 72 YEAR OLD MAN.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 04:49PM > The Troll is back!   AND NOW IT SEEMS THE FAG IS BACK   > Please don't feed the troll!   AND DON'T FEED THE FAG WHO IS GAYER THAN SITRE MAGANA WHO IS THE OTHER FAG THAT SUCKED OFF A 72 YEAR OLD MAN AND RAPED A DOG ON VIDEO.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 04:46PM > "John Harmon", AKA Horation Alger, AKA Raymond Spruance et.al. does not exist except in the diseased and fevered mind of an established but not very clever internet troll.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   ANOTHER GAY POST BY PETER WRECK. I MEAN THERE'S A TAPE OUT THERE OF SITRE MAGANA RAPING A DOG BUT EVEN THAT ISN'T AS GAY AS THIS POST. AND WHEN YOU POST SOMETHING AND IT IS GAYER THAN A FAG WHO SERVICED A 72 YEAR OLD MAN AND RAPED A DOG ON FILM, THEN YOU KNOW IT'S PROBABLY THE GAYEST THING ON SCI.ELECTRONICS.REPAIR.

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 23 07:45PM I don't remember seeing a question here about ATX PSUs and motherboards. So if there is a better forum to ask my question no doubt someone will tell me where...   My previous computer became progressively more reluctant to boot up and eventually I gave up and bought a new ATX PSU in case that was the problem. That was not a cure so I removed the motherboard as well and bought a new one. That combination has been working ever since, with enough problems to be interesting, of course...   But I would like to know if anything can be done with the old PSU and motherboard combination. If I power up the PSU alone by shorting the green PS_ON connection to ground the fan turns and voltages appear briefly, but then it goes dead again. If I connect the PSU to motherboard and short the front panel "on" contact the same thing happens. The CPU fan turns as well as the PSU one, but only momentarily.   I took the cover off the PSU but the inside shows nothing untoward.   Is there anything that I can do for some more diagnosis? The motherboards is a GA-8ISXT-FS and the PSU FSP300-60ATV with a 20-pin main power connector.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 23 04:41PM -0500 In article <MPG.33194c2971864c29c@news.plus.net>, gravity@mjcoon.plus.com says...   > Is there anything that I can do for some more diagnosis? The > motherboards is a GA-8ISXT-FS and the PSU FSP300-60ATV with a 20-pin > main power connector.   AT one time many mother boards were failing because the capacitors on them were defective. Look at some of the big ones tops, especially near th eprocessor and those coils of wire. If they are sort of dome shaped instead of flat, that would be the place to start.   Sometimes you could heat the board and it would start and then run for a long time. Cut it off and you had to heat it again to get it to start.   I sent a couple of boards back for replacement due to this problem years ago.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Feb 23 03:59PM -0800 On Thursday, February 23, 2017 at 11:45:21 AM UTC-8, MJC wrote:   > eventually I gave up and bought a new ATX PSU in case that was the > problem. That was not a cure so I removed the motherboard as well and ...   > Is there anything that I can do for some more diagnosis?   There's a lot that can be done as far as diagnosis, but learning to diagnose computer problems is ... better left to folk who do it fulltime.   Power supply problems are testable without having a new power supply. Motherboard problems are testable and detectable, but rarely fixable (the bulging-capacitors issue of 2000-2010 vintage being a notable exception).   Your best plan, if you suspect a hardware problem, is to FIRST rule out software (and firmware) issues. Then, visually inspect (for loose or dirty connectors, burned-up components, stalled fans, etc.). Then run test software for common issues (memory, hard disk). At this point, though, you're left with having to repace major parts (like a motherboard or CPU), which you already know.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Feb 23 01:49PM -0500 On 2/23/2017 5:50 AM, Spehro Pefhany wrote:   > Their argument was that it was a relatively large amount of money so I > should lose half. If it was $5 or $10 they probably would have made > the dishonest vendor pay 100%. So, caveat emptor.   That's so BS, but it may be a cultural thing. A friend was in a taxi in Vietnam and a cyclist was hit. The two drivers started haggling and bystanders joined in to mediate. In the end it was decided that the cyclist should get $50. They said my friend should pay.   --   Rick C

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 23 07:43PM In article <o8nao0$out$1@dont-email.me>, gnuarm@gmail.com says...   > That's so BS, but it may be a cultural thing. A friend was in a taxi in > Vietnam and a cyclist was hit. The two drivers started haggling and > bystanders joined in to mediate. In the end it was decided that the > cyclist should get $50. They said my friend should pay.   Sounds like a good scam. Perhaps the same "bystanders" do that every day...   Mike.

Hul Tytus <ht@panix.com>: Feb 23 10:45PM Try Jameco. They have a $20 minimum and sell a lot of "pulls" & odd stuff. Almost all are "through hole" devices, which can be handy.   Hul

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 23 08:52AM -0800 On Thu, 23 Feb 2017 08:44:26 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote: >you'll find that it also has a list of which applications are sucking >the most power. The backlighting for the OLED screen is invariably >the highest.   No brain function before my morning tea. That's wrong. There is no backlighting in an OLED display. That should be the LED "screen" power consumption, not backlighting power consumption. <https://www.howtogeek.com/244748/how-to-see-which-apps-are-draining-your-battery-on-an-android-phone-or-tablet/>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Feb 23 11:24AM -0800 >> It's got a proximity sensor but I don't remember what it's supposed to >> do.   > The heat is from the LEDs, not the batteries, and no, the batteries will   not last indefinitely. I would guess (SWAG) that each LED will run about 50 ma.   So you are pulling 450 ma, or thereabout per hour. If your AAA batteries are   middle-of-the-road 1,000 MAH, you have a base of 3000 MAH, so, about 6-7 hours   +/- or so. Under normal use, that is 'days'.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Might want to check that math.

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 23 07:41PM In article <3i3uacp6tcf7ivgd290g2lopocr8mug53e@4ax.com>, jeffl@cruzio.com says...   > On Wed, 22 Feb 2017 20:47:57 -0500, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> > wrote: > >It's got a proximity sensor but I don't remember what it's supposed to do   Isn't it just to switch off the screen and touch sensitivity when adjacent to your head so your ear doesn't swipe at random?   Mike.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Feb 23 02:38PM -0800 On Wednesday, February 22, 2017 at 5:48:12 PM UTC-8, micky wrote: > and use 3 AAA batteries.   > It's still really bright, but if it's noticeably warm, how long can the > baterries really last? Certainly not two days. ?   The internal resistance of the batteries, and the internal resistance of the LEDs used, is very much a part of the design of those flashlights. Both the LEDs and the batteries do get warm in normal operation, and (as you suspect) it's likely that a fresh set of batteries will last well under a day of ON operation; Duracell AAA claims 3.5 hours at 1/4W output, so a three-cell light could deliver over half a watt for a useful amount of time; hours, not days.   <https://d2ei442zrkqy2u.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/MN2400_US_CT1.pdf>

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 01:25PM AND I WENT TO GO SERVICE MYSELF TODAY AND IT APPEARS TO NOT BE DOING IT'S INTENDED JOB. SHOULD I CLEAN THE JIZZ OFF THE MOTOR OR IS IT A MORE SERIOUS PROBLEM? WOULD IT BE MORE ECONOMICAL TO BUY A NEW VIBRATING HEAD?   SERIOUS REPLIES ONLY.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 12:21PM > Little Timmee got hold of mommy's computer again.   > If, of course, it even has a mommy.   THAT IS SO FUCKING GAY. THAT WAS SO GAY THAT IT EVEN MAKES SITRE MAGANA LOOKS STRAIGHT. IF YOU POST SOMETHING AND IT WAS SO GAY THAT IT MAKES SITRE MAGANA A MAN WHO SERVICED A 72 YEAR OLD MAN AT A GAY ORGAY LOOK STRAIGHT, THEN YOU KNOW IT MUST BE LIKE THE GAYEST THING IN THE WORLD.

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