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tlvp <mPiOsUcB.EtLlLvEp@att.net>: Feb 18 01:47PM -0500 On Fri, 17 Feb 2017 17:21:15 -0500, nospam wrote:   > they also refarmed their network so that aws is not required anymore.   Smoking some good stuff, eh? Clue: Amazon Web Services was never required.   Cheers, -- tlvp -- Avant de repondre, jeter la poubelle, SVP.

nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid>: Feb 18 01:53PM -0500 In article <flzlm4pfb3is$.10u4v64wxkd0y.dlg@40tude.net>, tlvp   > > they also refarmed their network so that aws is not required anymore.   > Smoking some good stuff, eh? Clue: Amazon Web Services was never required.   clue: don't comment about things you don't understand.   clue#2: don't smoke whatever it is you're smoking.

Stijn De Jong <stijndekonlng@nlnet.nl>: Feb 18 09:14PM On Sat, 18 Feb 2017 14:20:39 -0000 (UTC), Lewis wrote:   >> Here is a photo of one type in my house, called "CellSpot" and "LTE": >> http://i.cubeupload.com/uNXXgZ.jpg   > that's the only LTE CellSpot I've seen. It has blinkenlights.   Thanks for confirming which one, because there is an entire thread on the various very different "things" that T-Mobile MARKETING calls a "Personal CellSpot" which they also call a "4G LTE CellSpot" such that saying those words is rendered meaningless.   If someone says they have a CellSpot, or a "Personal CellSpot", all they're definitively saying is that they have a micro tower, but there are multiple types of similarly branded micro towers, each of which is quite different in operation.   1. One type is a signal booster, which is purely cellular. 2. Another type is a microtower connected to your Internet router. 3. A third type is a router (I have not tested this type yet). 4. A fourth type is an access point (I haven't tested this either, yet). 5. And, while we're at it, there is WiFi calling (which isn't a "cellspot")   >> https://u.cubeupload.com/WoN2gQ.jpg   > Those are 4G LTE signal boosters which I've never seen before. They were > not on offer from T-Mobile when I asked about a CellSpot for my home.   Yes, but my point is that they also are branded by T-Mobile MARKETING as a "Personal CellSpot" and they all say "4G LTE".   The only difference in branding is in the final word *after* the meaningless "CellSpot" brand name (and in the case of the one you have, they don't even put a final word after the meaningless "CellSpot" brand name).       >> Are you getting that from your T-Mobile micro tower? >> How do you know? (Because that's the entire reason for this thread.)   > my iPhone displays the dB in the upper left corner. I's at -78 again.   I knew how you got the decibel RSSI (received signal strength indication), but the question was how do you know which "tower" you're getting your current signal from.   As far as anyone can tell, it's impossible to get the cell id tower from the phone on an iOS device, so you have to use an Android device to figure that out.   I have a similar setup to yours, except that I have at least three (and maybe more) towers for my phone to choose from (two of which are inside my own home).   So just having a decibel reading doesn't tell me *which* tower I'm connected to (since there are at least three or more to choose from).   The good news is that my decibel readings are now in the -50dBm to -60dBm range (instead of the minus 90 to minus 100 decibel range as they were before I hooked up the micro towers!).

Stijn De Jong <stijndekonlng@nlnet.nl>: Feb 18 09:31PM On Fri, 17 Feb 2017 18:43:40 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > My GSM phones show a valid lat-long. My CDMA phones show no data.   Hi Jeff, I'm still trying to figure this stuff out, but I noticed this MIT app (CellTracker) "attempts" to show both what the GPS says and the latitude and longitude for Verizon. http://people.csail.mit.edu/bkph/images/Screenshot_2013-04-16-15-29-00   CellTracker: http://people.csail.mit.edu/bkph/CellTracker

nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid>: Feb 19 10:43AM -0500 In article <o8cd8h$cep$1@gioia.aioe.org>, Stijn De Jong > >> the phone on an iOS device,   > > wrong.   > Certainly, technically competetent iOS users have tried over the years...   and have succeeded:   <https://ociotec.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/proveedor_telefonia.png>   <https://pbs.twimg.com/media/C29OaIVXAAEPTMG.jpg>

nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid>: Feb 19 10:43AM -0500 In article <5ywbkrysutvt$.1a5ko8xbsdqeh.dlg@40tude.net>, tlvp   > > the average isn't what matters. a quality app can be *very* profitable.   > So can a lottery ticket, and it's easier to develop. Cheers, -- tlvp   whooosh.

nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid>: Feb 18 07:59AM -0500 In article <ejhv69c7avlw$.1rhuccx6q8qpi.dlg@40tude.net>, tlvp   > > Can it?   > A dual SIM phone, with both SIMs active, and using different carriers, not > only *can*, it *must* :-) . 'Zat help? Cheers, -- tlvp   this isn't about dual sim phones.

Stijn De Jong <stijndekonlng@nlnet.nl>: Feb 19 03:22PM On Sat, 18 Feb 2017 16:29:17 -0500, nospam wrote:   >> As far as anyone can tell, it's impossible to get the cell id tower from >> the phone on an iOS device,   > wrong.   Certainly, technically competetent iOS users have tried over the years... http://stackoverflow.com/questions/13399659/get-cellid-mcc-mnc-lac-and-network-in-ios-5-1 https://blog.hqcodeshop.fi/archives/253-iPhone-cell-Field-Test-mode.html http://www.ahmadrifky.com/ict-stuff/iphone-measuring-your-carrier-operator-signalbandwidth-license-and-location-in-just-a-split-seconds https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4995211?start=0&tstart=0   Even iOS app developers have tried... https://forums.developer.apple.com/thread/21018 https://sourceforge.net/p/dpfdelphiios/tickets/232/   What do you know that they don't know?

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 22 11:21AM -0500 In article <R3irA.290505$6N1.4403@fx09.am4>, spamjunk@blueyonder.co.uk says... > having deliveries for 3 X Close. The worst case was a > "delivery" of roof height scaffolding; that company > wasn't amused by their incompetence.   My dad lived at 123 White Farm Road and there was a Church at 123 White Road. He would get a letter of theirs about once a month. The roads were about 10 miles apart. If they ever got a letter of his, they did not report it.   Once my natural gas bill got messed up. Didn't get one for about 2 months and one finally came. Weent to the gas company and somehow after living there for 5 years they han me "moved" to the town next to the one I lived in. Actually I lived about halfway between the two towns out in the country. It stayed messsed up for about 3 or 4 billing cycles.Eahc time I would go to them and they would change something, but somehow they seemed to not makc the correct change.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 22 04:23AM -0600 On Wed, 22 Feb 2017 08:48:25 +0800, Rheilly Phoull >purchases in your "basket" with one payment. It's not as hard as you may >think and you really didn't give it much of a go with one buy. >Most of the asian traders are honest and paypal keeps them that way.   Years ago, I got some really bad items from ebay, and it was a real hassle cleaning it up, usually costing me a big chunk of the money I paid, to ship the item back.   Things are now much better with ebay. Last year I bought a used laptop computer with XP installed. The physical hardware in the computer worked fine, but the operating system was majorly borked. It took 5 min to even load, and constantly crashed. The WIFI did not work at all. I complained to the seller. He told me to try a few tests, which I did, but it would not work regardless. He issued a refund and told me to dispose of the computer. I wiped the hard drive and installed XP myself, using an xp CD I alreeady had. I have been using that computer ever since and it works fine.   Then I bought an expensive (NEW) starter for my farm tractor. I installed it, and found it was completely dead. The seller sent me another starter, which arrived in 3 days, and works fine. He told me to just throw the defective one away.   I have been pretty satisfied with my purchases from ebay in recent years.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 27 04:09PM -0600 I was looking at some old 813 tubes that were once commonly used for Amateur radio transmitters, as the final output tube. While the common audio output tubes like 6L6 and 807 can produce about 25 to 30 watts audio output (per tube), running around 300 to 450 volts plate voltage, this 813 tube is rated at 250 to 300 watts output RF (per tube), but running at around 700 to 750 volts on the plate.   I'm not planning to do this, but if this 813 tube was used in an audio amplifier, and using 700 +/- plate voltage, would this tube be able to put out around 250 to 300 watts audio power (per tube)? Yea, I know it would require a custom audio output transformer.   Just curious.....

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 27 06:08PM -0500 In article <ru79bchvci6g6o18l8e4d4858jb03j3fek@4ax.com>, oldschool@tubes.com says... > put out around 250 to 300 watts audio power (per tube)? Yea, I know it > would require a custom audio output transformer.   > Just curious.....   Froim the data sheeds the 813 is only good for around 350 watts of audio power with 2 of them in push pull with 2500 volts on the plates. Around 260 watts with 1500 watts on the plates for 2 of them.   I doubt they would make much power at all if only 700 volts were used on the plates. The tubes are designed for over 1000 volts.   If running in anything resembling linear operation (RF or AF) that is about all that can be gotten out of them and have them last. Running class C at RF (audio would be very distorted) you can get more out of them, but not 250 watts per tube with 700 volts on the plates.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 27 05:14PM -0800 > Amateur radio transmitters, as the final output tube. While the common > audio output tubes like 6L6 and 807 can produce about 25 to 30 watts > audio output (per tube), running around 300 to 450 volts plate voltage,   ** Versions of the 6L6GC made by RCA and Sylvania can be operated in pairs in class B with 700V on the plate and 400V on the screens.   Audio output power can be 100W per pair in this mode, with low distortion.   EL34s can also be used the same way to deliver 100W.   Guitar amps made by MusicMan and Dynacord are commercial examples.     ..... Phil

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Feb 28 07:31AM -0500 Phil Allison wrote:   > Audio output power can be 100W per pair in this mode, with low distortion.   > EL34s can also be used the same way to deliver 100W.   > Guitar amps made by MusicMan and Dynacord are commercial examples.     He asked about the 6L6, which will not come close to the 6L6GC in performance.     -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 22 07:51PM On 01/30/2017 05:21 AM, Newgene McMensa wrote:   > Audio Files > http://twit.cachefly.net/audio/sn/sn0592/sn0248.mp3 (2010) > http://twit.cachefly.net/audio/sn/sn0592/sn0592.mp3 (2016)   SITRE MAGANA IS THE PORTABLE HAMSTER KILLER. HE CUT HIS HAMSTER TO PIECES WITH A PAIR OF SCISSORS HE ALSO WENT TO A GAY ORGY WHERE THEY HAD A NAKED 72 YEAR OLD MAN

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Feb 28 02:11AM Got it. I have to switch either one or the other SIM off. On the Dash Jr I could just pick which accont I wanted to use when I made the call. They both work now without removing anything, but they don't work simultaneously   - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}--- [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards] [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Feb 22 12:03AM I had a BLU DASH JR with H2O and Redpocket (both ATT resellers with $100/yr plans) until ATT dropped 2G. So I got a BLU R1 HD and only H2O worked when I got it on Saturday. I called redpocket and they said to call Tuesday. Today they got it to work. THen I realised H2O stopped working. But they BOTH worked on the DASH JR. CLues?     - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}--- [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards] [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 22 06:17PM > ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}--- > [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards] > [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]   NO, SITRE MAGANA HAS ISSUES HE WENT TO A GAY ORGY ONCE AND FUCKED A 72 YEAR OLD MAN.

R2D4 <r2d4@stwars.com>: Feb 22 11:27AM -0500 I am on my second Sunbeam electric blanket this Winter and it is doing the same thing as the first one I had-- starts off for a couple of weeks working correctly, then spends a week getting weaker and weaker where I have to turn up the controller all the way and even then the heating is uneven and weak. I was going to return this one too, but before I do, I wanted to ask if anyone knew of a solution to repair this? Almost seems like there is a circuit issue somewhere, maybe in the controller, but who knows. If it were a cheap repair, I'd just keep the blanket after the low cost repeatable fix. Thank you.   PS: I can't think that they're making that much money on these. I read the reviews and *many* folks are having similar issues. If a solution isn't found for the above, I'd appreciate recommendations for a brand/ model that will last. This definitely isn't like the blanket I had while growing up 25 years ago; that one lasted for 15 years with no issues.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 22 05:54PM On 02/22/2017 04:27 PM, R2D4 wrote: > isn't found for the above, I'd appreciate recommendations for a brand/ > model that will last. This definitely isn't like the blanket I had > while growing up 25 years ago; that one lasted for 15 years with no issues.   DID YOU KNOW THAT SITRE MAGANA LIKES TO PLAY WITH HIS OWN SHIT?

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Feb 20 08:52AM +0800 > cable to lower it to the ground, the guys said it was too hot to touch > and they could not load it on their truck. One of the guys suggested > hosing it with cold water, but I left before they did that.   AFAIK the fuses are to protect the tranny not the load.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 28 11:46AM On 25/02/2017 14:28, N_Cook wrote: > Hopefully that means the 74LS138 3 to 8 demultiplexer did not survive > 1/3 century,internal metalisation creep or something, rather than main > micro problem.   no factory reset sequence found for this model. Reseated the socketed memory JIC, but no change As some of the function switches are out as well as keyboard, part of same polling structure, i'll go with a problem on the digital side rather than VCF/analogue. Continuity back to 40245 ok , but as 2 of the octal lines out , presumably back farther than that, have to do some digital probing after finding bench space. One tip for dealing with these, small cable ties between top and base, to act as a hinge for probing access to the internals and keep everything in reasonable registration so no strained cables.

Stijn De Jong <stijndekonlng@nlnet.nl>: Feb 28 05:15AM Just in case you want this information, I was able to bring my cellular signal from -100 dBm to -50dBm at home using these three free devices from the carrier: http://i.cubeupload.com/sSOph0.jpg   I used my Android phone to check exactly which of the three devices worked best to give me the best cellular signal strength: http://i.cubeupload.com/HIz95n.jpg   At the same time, I set up five different access points within the house to get the best coverage for WiFi (in case I wanted to use WiFi calling): http://i.cubeupload.com/5QyGiz.jpg   The three devices are two different types, where this one is a pure cellular signal booster (the other ties to your router): http://i.cubeupload.com/NhwUFR.jpg   To see exactly when each of the three micro towers was the one I was connecting to, I set up this IMEI catcher which pinged me visually and with a beep whenever it saw a new cell tower not in the whitelist: http://i.cubeupload.com/JUrONL.jpg   In the end, I was able to figure out which device of these two types gave the best signal strength overall for my needs inside my house (and in my yard). http://i.cubeupload.com/RJ3cs6.jpg   Feel free to ask questions if you want to do the same for your home because I boosted both my WiFi signal strength (using transmitters that dwarf the power of a typical home WiFi router) and my cellular signal strength without any investment in money. http://i.cubeupload.com/EZvpx3.jpg

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 27 04:38PM -0600 I have yet to find a decent chart which explains the reason for the numbers/letters used on tubes. (For USA tubes).   There seems to be more online for european tubes.   For example:   6L6 tube. the first "6" is the heater voltage. The "L" means Beam Power Pentode. And the last "6" is supposed to mean the number of elements in the tube.   Yet, I have found no chart which says what "U" means, and 5U4 is very common.   Oddly enough, some tubes dont match the filament voltage. For example, the 813 tube requires 10 volts on the filament. (Not 8), yet the 807 tube needs 6.3 volts on the filament.   But this gets even more complicated. What is a 6AU6? 6 volt filament, (6 elements *maybe*) but what's the AU for? (remember, "U" is not listed). "A' means "Diode". (A 6AU6 is a sharp cutoff pentode).   Or 12AX7. 12 volt heater, 7 elements (that is correct), but what does the AX mean? ["X" is supposed to mean "Gas-filled full-wave rectifier". *12AX7 or it's near identical 12AU7 is NOT used as a rectifier, it's a dual triode.*   And then there were those old 1B3 tubes in TV sets. Where did the 1 volt heater voltage come from? (and why didn't they just stick with 6.3 volts like other tubes?)   One other thing. Is there any rhyme or reason that transistors are given the numbers they get, or are they just random numbers given for no real reason? I wont even get into the IC chips and what leads to the number/letters used on them....   * If anyone knows of a COMPLETE listing that can be downloaded, such as a PDF file, please post the URL. (or even a text file). I am not finding anything that's complete......

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 27 03:36PM -0800 >I have yet to find a decent chart which explains the reason for the >numbers/letters used on tubes. (For USA tubes).   I don't have an answer to your question. However, note that any significant numbering scheme always falls apart as technical progress advances faster than letters and numbers can be contrived to match. For example, we started with 1Nxxxx = Diode, 2Nxxxx = Triode (BJT, FET), 3Nxxxx = (Dual gate MOSFET), 4N = Optoisolator, etc. That lasted about 10 years before devices arrived that could not easily be crammed into the significant numbering scheme. The JEDEC would have been better off just starting at 00001 and counting up in sequence. It would seem that the semiconductor people had not learned the lessons of tube numbering, and repeated the basic mistakes.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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