- Best place for a hobbiest to buy small amounts of parts? - 6 Updates
- Batteries make flashilight hot. - 4 Updates
- CONSUMER ELECTRONICS DIY REPAIR? - 1 Update
- Repair a Hammond Organ? - 1 Update
- does a fake LOPT even exist? - 1 Update
- Holy Crap, this is one huge speaker..... - 8 Updates
- Dual SIM issues - 2 Updates
- electric blanket getting significantly weaker over short period of time - 1 Update
- Is there any way to adjust this? - 1 Update
root <NoEMail@home.org>: Feb 22 07:48PM >>vendors (same as EBay) but none of them see your credit card, and >>until you approve of the product *as delivered*, they don't get your > Is this Aliexpress a company in China, or do they just sell China goods? AliExpress is Chinese. AliExpress is the consumer outlet for AliBaba, the huge Chinese company. |
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Feb 23 08:40AM +1100 On 23/02/17 00:33, Tom Gardner wrote: > Later MS refused to sell me Win7, so clearly they don't > want my custom. MS doesn't have customers. They have hostages. |
rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Feb 21 04:19PM -0500 > their filter to US Only. Otherwise my page is flooded with China items. > Sure, I could often save a dollar or two buying from China, but it's not > worth the hassle. The only times I've had trouble with eBay orders is when I didn't follow up on keeping track of them. I find ebay sellers to be very responsive because they live and die by their rating. If all else fails (which it has sometimes) I dispute the charge on my credit card and have never failed to get the refund. > turned into a huge hassle. I lost money, got an item I did not really > want, and the seller lost too. I made a point to never buy from outside > North America again. It's just not that big a deal normally. Having to wait over a month before filing for an "item not received" refund is a bit of a pain, but I only use this for things I don't need any time soon. -- Rick C |
Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Feb 22 08:48AM +0800 > turned into a huge hassle. I lost money, got an item I did not really > want, and the seller lost too. I made a point to never buy from outside > North America again. Well, you might have to "man up" and enter the modern times of online marketing :-). As stated ebay with paypal or similar gives pretty good protection against problem trades. Also as you are only buying small quantities you will not be risking much. For buying small quantities from several traders ebay makes it easy for you by putting all the purchases in your "basket" with one payment. It's not as hard as you may think and you really didn't give it much of a go with one buy. Most of the asian traders are honest and paypal keeps them that way. |
Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz>: Feb 23 05:19AM > that I almost feel overwhelmed. And I hear they have large minimums and > shipping, but I never got that far on their websites.... (I have to go > to a public WIFI to use those sites, since I only have dialup at home). Depending on where you are sometimes they have free shipping. so far as i know they don't have minimum orders on most common parts, I think that I heard that digikey has free shipping if you are in USA and order by mail with cheque enclosed. > I know ebay is an option too, but ordering each item separately can be a > pain too. yeah... quality can be suspect too, but if y're prepare to be vigilant it can work. > What (if any) online stores will fit my needs? > Maybe its none of these huge stores, but something smaller... you could look at "sparkfun" and "adafriut" and "pimoroni", but I'm not guaranteeing that they will be a good fit for you. -- This email has not been checked by half-arsed antivirus software |
Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Feb 22 02:33AM > What is the best place for a hobbiest to buy small amounts of electronic > parts? A really funky web site is http://www.danssmallpartsandkits.net/ I've ordered parts from "Dan" and never had "issues". Lots of old descrete parts. It can take a bit to dig through all he has listed. (He definitely does NOT pay anyone to maintain that web site. :-) Jonesy -- Marvin L Jones | W3DHJ | W3DHJ | https://W3DHJ.net/ Pueblo, Colorado | @ | Jonesy | __ 38.238N 104.547W | jonz.net | DM78rf | 73 SK |
Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Feb 24 04:35PM -0500 On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 10:45:18 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com" >Funny thing, these types of lights are often give-away items at Solar Energy conferences - I have been to my fair share, and how they came into my hands. Otherwise I would not touch this cr*p on a bet. >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA I just checked 3 of mine... Two give-aways and one UV of similar design. All three have the AAA batteries connected in series. That got me wondering how the LEDs are wired, but I was too lazy to take them apart. All have 9 LEDs so I will guess 3 sets of 3. Is 4.5v enough to power a 3 LED string? Just went to look it up and the answer to my own question is "no". UV and White LEDs typically have a Vf of 3.3 volts. So, all 9 are in parallel with their own current limiter? If so, why 9? Is there a cheap IC that supports 9 LEDs? If anyone knows, please educate us. Pat |
mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Feb 24 02:45PM -0800 > Funny thing, these types of lights are often give-away items at Solar Energy conferences - I have been to my fair share, and how they came into my hands. Otherwise I would not touch this cr*p on a bet. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA It's certainly possible, but it's a bad design tradeoff, and a safety hazard, to put 3XAAA in parallel. I've never seen one that way. Even if they were in parallel, you'd need about 3X the led current from the batteries, so your math is still questionable. watts from battery x efficiency = watts to led. The cheapest lights use 3XAAA in series connected directly to the parallel combination of LED's. They ship with "heavy duty" batteries and the series resistance of the batteries limits the current. Alkaline batteries will overheat the LED's. Now you know why the LED's start to flicker after a while. If you try to run one off a 18650 you'll burn out the leds, even though the 4.2V of the cell is less than the nominal 4.5V of three AAA cells. I had to put 1.5 ohms in series to make it work. If are really bored, you can cut two FREE Harbor Freight lights in two and solder the parts back together (well, they're aluminum so use something like Welco 52) to make one longer light that accepts a 18650. Don't forget the series resistor. This made a lot more sense back before you could buy a single AA zoom flashlight for $2. If you take out 8 of the 9 LED's and make the resistor larger, it makes a great emergency light that will run forever during a power outage. Just my luck...we haven't had a power outage since I built it. ;-) |
Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 22 05:55PM On 02/23/2017 01:47 AM, micky wrote: > only noticed because it felt warm in my pocket. > It's got a proximity sensor but I don't remember what it's supposed to > do. YEAH, WELL I HAD MY LED LIGHT BULB IN MY KITCHEN HOOD ON ALL DAY AND IT WAS TOO HOT TO TOUCH SO WHAT'S YOUR POINT? |
Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Feb 24 01:16PM -0500 On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 09:36:12 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com" >The reality is probably different as all the shots/assumptions are center-mass. If the LEDs are 100ma outliers, if the cells are 1.4mah outliers, things do change, of course. >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA 3 cells at 1000 mah each do NOT give you 3000 mah. They give you 1000 mah but at a higher voltage (4.5 vs 1.5). If you use mwh (watts) instead of mah (amps), then you can add them. (If the cells are wired in parallel instead of series, then you are correct, but that isn't very common.) |
Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 22 06:14PM > On Tuesday, February 21, 2017 at 12:39:17 PM UTC-5, mhp...@gmail.com wrote: > I will not buy Homedics products. SO WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO DO NOW? PLAY WITH YOUR OWN SHIT LIKE SITRE MAGANA LIKES TO? |
oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 25 04:15PM -0600 >This any help? https://archive.org/details/HSM4952016 >Maybe try this forum: http://www.organforum.com/forums/ >Kenny Thanks, but neigther of these links seem to have any schematic for my model (Hammond model # 227214. Called an "Aurora Custom 1 (AV28)". |
oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 25 04:23PM -0600 On Sat, 25 Feb 2017 18:29:37 -0000 (UTC), frank <frank@invalid.net> wrote: >rigth one? >Thanks >Frank What is a LOPT? I'm guessing it's a Picture Tube (CRT), but after reading your post, I am not sure what you're talking about.... Please define..... |
Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Feb 27 01:34PM -0500 |
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 27 02:04PM -0500 In article <alpine.LNX.2.02.1702271332180.6852@darkstar.example.org>, et472@ncf.ca says... > But I think you're thinking of the 807 (and there was also the 1629, I > think I got that number right) which was similar, and there was a long > supply of them in the surplus market well after WWII. The 807 and 1625 were very similar. The 807 had a 6.3 volt filiment and the 1625 had a 12.6. They were cheap on the war suplus market after WW2. Still plenty of then around up to atleast 1975 or so. Many home built ham transmitters used them. They were also used in some high power audio equipment. Many of the commercial built transmitters of ham and public service started using the 6146 series of tubes as they were not that expensive and would go to about 200 MHz with no big problem. When color TV sets started using the 6LQ6, 6JE6 and a few other sweep tubes they were very inexpensive compaired to other power tubes and could put out a lot of power for the cost in SSB usage that was becomming popular on the ham bands. During that time many ham transceivers put out about 100 watts and it took a pair of the 6146 or 6xx6 series of tubes. As the TV sets started going all solid state and the 6xx6 series quit being made in large quanties the price started going up. About that time transistors that could put out the same power were comming down and would work off 12 volts DC were comming down in price. That killed off the market for those tubes in new equipment. Now transistors and othe solid state devices that can handle 500 and 1000 watts at RF are comming out, it is starting to kill off the market for tubes in that power range. Very few tubes are being made in the US now,and lots of replacements for the older tubes are comming from Russia, and China. |
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Feb 27 05:11PM -0500 > They weight anywhere from 650 lbs to 1800 lbs. It struggles on those > 1800 lb ones, but a larger tractor could easily handle a ton or more. > (I dont buy or make bales larger than 1500 lbs). We would have needed a crane to remove it from the pad. The people I moved it for were convinced that it had PCB based oil in it, even though it was built after that was NLA. They paid me to move the transmitter for another local station, for parts for the same model. They paid $150 for the old transmitter. That transformer was worth over $5,000, used. > Mcintosh MC3500, Tube amps, and the MC2300 solid state amps, having a > total ofaround 28,000 watts. Not the intended use, but they held > up.... Not if they tried to run them at full output. >> was a 'Distributed Amplifier'. > Im not real familiar with transmitters, but I know that tube is used in > Ham transmitters and is similar to a 6L6 (or am I thinking 6LQ6?). The 6L6 was a metal cased audio tube that was a slightly higher powered version of the 6V6. http://www.r-type.org/pdfs/6l6.pdf -- Never piss off an Engineer! They don't get mad. They don't get even. They go for over unity! ;-) |
gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Feb 21 09:10AM > <oldschool@tubes.com> wrote: >> http://www.ohgizmo.com/2006/03/06/the-biggest-subwoofer-ever-made > https://playingintheworldgame.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/diatone-2.jpg https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZmOwG0OnYbXJfRBmqyYGw4m5TVC_uKGODtmR1GdzZkEOyhuri-rFgcmyZu3yMIR7JthZT336dulnOoKdkcTAl7wuJ22Y08OmIAC0FEd1fWFHs7-CYKtRw-stUrSa1ZYbHkCBVd70bgLI/s1600/the+biggest+speaker.jpg Greg |
Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>: Feb 21 09:03PM On Mon, 20 Feb 2017 06:37:49 -0600, oldschool wrote: > Back in the 70s, I used a red bulb with a special plastic tip that did > not melt. They were cheap and did a fair job. The red bulb ones don't work very well; the bulb is too small. The ones with a larger blue bulb are much better. But the main problem with bulb type solder suckers is cleaning them. You can shake a fair amount of the old solder out of the bulb but quite a bit remains. You have to be imaginative and patient to get it out. -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com To get my real email address, replace wrongname with dadoheadman. Then replace nospam with fastmail. Lastly, replace com with us. |
oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 20 01:20PM -0600 http://www.ohgizmo.com/2006/03/06/the-biggest-subwoofer-ever-made |
Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>: Feb 20 09:18PM On Mon, 20 Feb 2017 13:20:55 -0600, oldschool wrote: > http://www.ohgizmo.com/2006/03/06/the-biggest-subwoofer-ever-made Didn't ElectroVoice sell a 30 inch speaker? It wasn't as big but you could actually buy one. -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com To get my real email address, replace wrongname with dadoheadman. Then replace nospam with fastmail. Lastly, replace com with us. |
oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 25 02:16PM -0600 >done with audio, but I have seen it done with radio amplifiers, a bunch of >tubes in parallel so the output impedance is 50 ohms to match the coax. > Michael This is a good article about the "Wall of Sound". It was (and probably still is) the greatest sound system ever built, but it nearly bankrupt the Dead, and moving all that equipmnt from show to show does seem very impractical. Those mcintosh MC3500 amps are still the best anps ever built. More powerful solid state amps have been built, but none can match that tube sound. https://motherboard.vice.com/en_us/article/the-wall-of-sound I dont doubt that there were fried amps, blown speakers and so on at those concerts. Everything was being run at Max power and much of this was still in development stages. Paralleled tubes like you said, dont seem real practical for audio amps. Having that high DC voltage on the speaker leads seems very dangerous. |
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Feb 26 06:20PM +1100 On 26/02/17 07:45, micky wrote: > I looked into this a little, and afaict the Catholics don't say Sunday > is the 7th day, which would make Saturday the 6th. . They say it's the > Lord's Day. Some IT systems standards count Sunday as the first day, some Monday. Some number the first day as zero, some as one. Anything that cares to number the days of the week needs to allow this to be configured to local customs. > I've been to France but don't remember seeing a calendar. But I've read > that it's been changed, something to do with the French Revolution or > maybe it was Napoleon. I think calendar reform is a good idea, but won't ever happen. In my ideal calendar, each year has ten months, one week, and a day (or two for a leap year). A month is seven weeks, and a week is five days - still with a 2-day weekend. That would reduce annual working days to 84% of the current 260 (ex holidays), down to 213 - not really a big drop. The end-of-year week-and-a-day would be an annual holiday which would include any leap day. So every month would be 35 days long. Much more regular - better than the French system I think. And we'd have no more nonsense about the Sabbath :) Clifford Heath. |
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 25 03:45PM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Sat, 25 Feb 2017 14:29:59 -0500, micky >>I think it's only the sixth day of the week in France. >Bad syntax on my part. I think only in France is it the sixth day of >the week. Even for France, I'm only going by where it appears on printed calendars. If you look those Week-at-a-Glance desk calendars with place to write appointmentns, they separate the weekend into one box, so there are 3 boxes on each page, but I've always thought they do that because working people have most of their appointments and scheduled tasks on workdays. I looked into this a little, and afaict the Catholics don't say Sunday is the 7th day, which would make Saturday the 6th. . They say it's the Lord's Day. I've been to France but don't remember seeing a calendar. But I've read that it's been changed, something to do with the French Revolution or maybe it was Napoleon. http://www.webexhibits.org/calendars/calendar-french.html The French Revolutionary Calendar (or Republican Calendar) was officially adopted in France on October 24, 1793 and abolished on 1 January 1806 by Emperor Napoleon I. It was used again briefly during under the Paris Commune in 1871. The French also established a new clock, in which the day was divided in ten hours of a hundred minutes of a hundred seconds - exactly 100,000 seconds per day. ..... The year was not divided into weeks, instead each month was divided into three décades of 10 days, of which the final day was a day of rest. This was an attempt to de-Christianize the calendar, but it was an unpopular move, because now there were 9 work days between each day of rest, whereas the Gregorian Calendar had only 6 work days between each Sunday***. The ten days of each décade were called, respectively, Primidi, Duodi, Tridi, Quartidi, Quintidi, Sextidi, Septidi, Octidi, Nonidi, Decadi. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_Republican_Calendar: The Concordat of 1801 re-established the Roman Catholic Church as an official institution in France (though not as a state religion) with effect from Easter Sunday, 18 April 1802, restoring the names of the days of the week to the ones they had in the Gregorian Calendar, while keeping the rest of the Republican Calendar, and fixing Sunday as the official day of rest and religious celebration.[4] (This article is pretty long and I haven't read more than a little bit. It looks combative and therefore I'd take anything it says with a big grain of salt, and that there's another side to any ideological or even factual statement, but otoh, it's a comprehensive story so: https://www.worldslastchance.com/ecourses/lessons/changing-weeks-hiding-sabbath-ecourse/18/french-republican-calendar.html ) >>If you're using windows and you click on the time in the lower right >>corner, a calendar comes up and Saturday is 7th. ***This reminds me of the way peasants are still ridiculed for complaining, rioting in some places IIrc, when the calendar was changed from Julian to Gregorian. The ridicule is based on the idea that they thought 10 days was being stolen from their lives, and that would be stupid, but their objection actually was that they were expected to pay a full month's rent to their landlords, even though that month was only 20 days long. (Also their health club membership was only 20 days that month.) |
R2D4 <r2d4@stwars.com>: Feb 26 12:16AM -0500 On 02/22/2017 11:27 AM, R2D4 wrote: > isn't found for the above, I'd appreciate recommendations for a brand/ > model that will last. This definitely isn't like the blanket I had > while growing up 25 years ago; that one lasted for 15 years with no issues. Just to update that I gave up on trying to find the right electric whatever that will work correctly and I am currently trying out down and down alternative comforters. This also seems to be an area needing study and it's not as simple as just picking out one without knowing what you need beforehand. However, I'm very close to a reasonably costing winner so my problems are almost solved. |
Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 25 12:51AM > You do have a point. > However, if you comb your hair *JUST* right, perhaps no one will notice. WHAT?? I CAN'T HEAR YOU. CAN YOU SPEAK UP? IT'S HARD TO HEAR YOU OVER THE SOUND OF ALL THESE CRYING LIBERALS. |
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com. |
No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 9 topics"
Post a Comment