Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 14 topics

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 25 04:32AM -0500

In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 24 Feb 2017 18:47:01 -0500, Michael
 
>I've taken some apart, and I don't see anything but the LEDs. So they
>have to be in parallel, and rely on the bettery itself to supply some
>level of series resistance.
 
Sometimes one or two of the bulbs go out, so I think that also means
parallel.
"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 25 08:07PM

"MJC" <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.331ac172b068a710d@news.plus.net...
>> suddenly burst into life without any regulation!
 
> Thanks - wow, concentrating on the PSU stand-alone and not plugged into
> the m/b seems like a Good Idea!
 
You need a dummy load for that.
 
Only the 5V & 3.3V rails are regulated, once they come up to spec, the PWM
throttles back to idle - the other rails will collapse if you try to draw
current.
 
My dummy load uses both filaments of a H4 headlamp bulb for the 5 & 3.3
rails, an indicator bulb for the +12V and dash bulbs for the rest.
 
That loads it well enough to scope all the rails for ripple.
 
There's usually a very small electrolytic close to the SMPSU chip that
samples the error voltage - if that's one of the expired, the PSU can go
bang.
Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 22 06:23PM

> On Sun, 19 Feb 2017 07:38:58 -0600, Steve Kraus
 
> If they are only a minute off, or even 5 minutes, you're doing good.
> They are not meant for precision.
 
IT TOOK SITRE MAGANA ABOUT FIVE MINUTES TO CUT HIS HAMSTER UP WITH A
PAIR OF SCISSORS.
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Feb 25 01:41AM

THanks. Well, worst case, I'll use up th eminutes on redpocket then
switch to H2O
 
 
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 25 03:23PM -0500

In sci.electronics.repair, on Wed, 22 Feb 2017 07:14:05 +1100, Clifford
>> But they BOTH worked on the DASH JR. CLues?
 
>Most "Dual SIM" phones are like that. The 2nd SIM only works on 2G,
>only one SIM can connect to a modern network.
 
This doesn't refer to the question at hand, but I t hought my experience
over the last day would be worth posting (if not worth reading..
 
When the sim came in the mail it said that I shouldn't download data
until I get a data plan becuase it woudl be very expensive. I didnt'
get a data plan because.. could be wrong but I think I can get a much
better one when I get there.
 
So i was trying to turn off my data, but up until this morning, I'd
only found "turn off background data", not enough.
 
So yesterday and today I put in the new sim and tapped a couple things
settling on AT&T, at least I thought so, but when I got to the
notification line, a message went by that I have no ATT service!! And
instead of one white triangle (with the tall side at the right), I had
two triangles and they were both blank inside.
 
I went back and just for a test I made the new sim my main sim, and then
the message just said "no service", becuase it didn't know which service
the new sim was supposed to have.
 
So I made ATT the main sim again, by turning the second sim off with its
slide switch on the SIM page, and then I noticed Activities and calls
were set for ATT 012, SMS was set for ATT 01. bit cellular data was set
for the other sim!! So i set it to ATT, and I'll bet that covers all
the data. Then I went back to Settings/Data usage, where I
had tried to change it before, and it said "SIM off, to see the number,
first turn it on" Since I didn't want to turn on the new sim, I tapped
cancel and then it just returned to Settings.
 
So then I did turn on the second one, and I'm not getting a message
about no service... Well of course, because ATT is still working fine.
I have two triangles, one white and one empty. (Later I turned off the
second sim but I stil have two triangles.)
 
But I might be slowing something down or wasting battery to keep looking
for a signal for the second sim so I'll turn it off soon.
 
But the point was that the setting I wanted seems to be under SIM /
Activities / Cellular Data
 
BTW, for Cellular Data, I had to choose one, but for Calls and SMS,
there was a 3rd choice "Ask first". In my situation where one server
is in one country and the other in another, asking first doesn't make
sense, but some people have a need to split data and phone calls.
....
 
It turns out I might even be able to buy the plan I'm thinking of right
at the airport.
 
(But I can leave the data on ATT (where it won't work), and that will I
suspect turn it off for the other one until I can buy the data plan.)
 
The big problem is IMO a) that there are no printed directiosn for some
phones (and the ones for my phone cover nothing but the obvious) and b)
it's not clear in advance what one can tap on and what one can't. It's
not like web browers that one can set to underline and display in
another color clickable links.
 
 
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Feb 22 07:14AM +1100

> got it on Saturday. I called redpocket and they said to call Tuesday.
> Today they got it to work. THen I realised H2O stopped working.
> But they BOTH worked on the DASH JR. CLues?
 
Most "Dual SIM" phones are like that. The 2nd SIM only works on 2G,
only one SIM can connect to a modern network.
Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 22 06:21PM

On 02/18/2017 08:38 PM, Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:
 
 
> DSOs are great once you have some familiarity with what to expect, but
> can be very deceiving if you don't.
 
SITRE MAGANA'S HAMSTER DIDN'T EXPECT TO BE CUT TO PIECES BY SITRE MAGANA
WITH A PAIR OF SCISSORS.
 
Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 22 06:12PM

On 02/18/2017 08:30 PM, Don Young wrote:
amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Feb 21 08:29PM -0600

On 2/21/2017 7:46 PM, radiotek wrote:
> WTB: Looking for a good used AM ferritec rod antenna with or without
> windings that is 3/8" in diameter and is at least 4" long or longer. If
> you have any in you junk box please contact me.
 
You can't come up with an old portable AM radio to scrap it from?
Go to Goodwill or Salvation Army or a yard sale, it will be less than
anyone could ship it to you.
Or order it from WWW.Bytemark.
Mike
 
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 25 04:20PM -0600


>Kenny
 
>http://www.terapeak.com/worth/hammond-aurora-custom-model-227222-227214-schematic-diagram-nos/371534107566/
 
I was already to cough up the $10 for this paper manual, when I clicked
on "BUY", it took me to an Ebay page that "does not exist". Probably
another useless ancient link to something that google dont seem to ever
remove. From what I've been seeing lately, google never removes outdated
links. I've been seeing around 35% of the links on google are obsolete
lately.
"Phoena Greene" <raeanne.is@ratchet.hoe>: Feb 21 03:14PM -0800

<mhploni@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:13aee07a-de35-44cc-a09f-78fadc6a465c@googlegroups.com...
 
> I have a Homedics back massager that I purchased at Walmart for $100. I
> refuse to just throw it away and purchase a new one (as our manufacturers
> want us to do).
 
You're acting like $100 is like a month's rent or a car payment. What does
$100 get you these days? Sitre Magana can spend that in a week just stuffing
his fat fucking face.
 
> (the OEM wire seems too thin and it may already be damaged inside).
 
> Thing is, the transformer does not have screws to open it and I don't know
> how to so I can put it back together.
 
I usually get them open with either a hammer or by throwing them on the
concrete. Which ever way works for you.
 
Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Feb 21 08:15PM +0100

First test the output of the transformer with a meter !
 
I'm quite sure the transformer is not guilty.
 
 
Phoena Greene <rhiann.is@n.ugly.hoe>: Feb 21 08:18PM


> Like a microwave oven, you don't need a ground fault at all to die off
of one of those.
 
I suspect that Sitre Magana is going to die from a microwave oven, just
from all the calories he gets out of them.
The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Feb 18 01:09PM -0800

On 02/17/2017 04:01 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>>the paid version is rarely significantly better than the free version.
 
> Oh well. It's rather difficult to build a company based on a free
> product (unless one sells advertising).
 
Fine with me. Just how much can a person make from app-advertising?
 
> with the idea for several decades. Enjoy free while it lasts. I'm
> thinking more of a Kickstarter, Indiegogo, or other crowdfunding
> project.
 
And yet people do it...
 
--
Cheers, Bev
"My dad used to say: Laugh, and the whole world laughs with you.
Cry, and I'll give you something to cry about you little
bastard." -Jeff Goldblum
nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid>: Feb 18 04:12PM -0500

In article <o8ad3c$8ru$1@dont-email.me>, The Real Bev
 
> > Oh well. It's rather difficult to build a company based on a free
> > product (unless one sells advertising).
 
> Fine with me. Just how much can a person make from app-advertising?
 
a lot.
 
<http://www.adweek.com/digital/googles-ad-revenue-hits-19-billion-even-m
obile-continues-pose-challenges-172722/>
During the second quarter of 2016, Alphabet's revenue hit $21.5
billion, a 21 percent year-over-year increase. Of that revenue, $19.1
billion came from Google's advertising business, up from $16 billion
a year ago.
Stijn De Jong <stijndekonlng@nlnet.nl>: Feb 18 10:00PM

The great news is that I've gotten my cellular signal up from around
-100dBm to consistently better than -60dBm, which is an astoundingly
astronomical improvement in signal strength!
 
For example, here is a reading, just now, of -53dBm on my cellphone:
http://i.cubeupload.com/GEYEzS.jpg
 
From what I've read, cellular signal doesn't get much better than that.
 
However, there is so much data that each of these apps output that I'm
still going through all the useful information to figure out exactly which
device is doing what (since I have an old micro tower and a new femto tower
in my house).
JF Mezei <jfmezei.spamnot@vaxination.ca>: Feb 18 02:08PM -0500

On 2017-02-17 23:36, tlvp wrote:
 
> A dual SIM phone, with both SIMs active, and using different carriers, not
> only *can*, it *must* :-) . 'Zat help? Cheers, -- tlvp
 
In that scenario, you really have 2 phones and each attaches itself to
only 1 antanna/radio.
 
Just because a phone can SEE signals from multiple antennas does not
mean that it has concurrent active communication to multiple antennas.
Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Feb 21 06:30PM -0800

> or 1000W, but there are 9 of them).
 
> From what I am seeing, those transformers are all under rated. A friends
> house has 200A service and his transformer is only 8KVA.
 
You could just contact the utility with the details of what you are
drawing. They might choose to replace the transformer. I was told onece
that if I increased usage significantly and did not tell them, I could
be responsible for the transformer being damaged. If I told them, no
problem.
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 22 05:50PM -0500

In article <o8l23h$2u0$1@dont-email.me>, gnuarm@gmail.com says...
> The few times I did it I wasn't happy and I'm not comfortable with the
> overall process. If I can't contact the seller, why should I buy
> anything from them?
 
 
Most of the new things of any big price I order from any place is
something I already know about. I have orderd from ebay from China many
items less than $ 25 and have been satified.
 
I have ordered some items off ebay that I look on Youtube to see if
anyone has done a review on them. Good thing about ebay is you can look
at a venders feedback and if they have done lots of business and have a
rating of around 99 or beter then I feel good about them.
 
The way I see it, Amazon has ratings on the products but not on the
outside venders.I ordered a book from one of the Amazon venders and did
not get in about 3 weeks I tried 2 times to send them an email and did
not get a response. Went to Amazons problem page and got credited in
less than a week by them.
oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 21 02:46PM -0600

On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 10:09:14 -0500, Ralph Mowery
>for very small orders such as up to 8 oz shipped by the USPS.
 
>If you do go to ebay for the parts, watch out for the China places.
>Some are good and some send junk parts.
 
I dont buy anything from China. (or any place outside of North America).
It takes too long to get the items, if the stuff is defective, I'm stuck
with it, and I do not trust giving out my credit card info. I only buy
from the US and Canada. When I am on ebay, the first thing I do is set
their filter to US Only. Otherwise my page is flooded with China items.
Sure, I could often save a dollar or two buying from China, but it's not
worth the hassle.
 
The one and only time I bought an ebay item from outside the US, I
bought something from the UK. The order got all screwed up, and it
turned into a huge hassle. I lost money, got an item I did not really
want, and the seller lost too. I made a point to never buy from outside
North America again.
krw@notreal.com: Feb 24 08:30PM -0500

>> on this side of the pond.
 
> From what my friend says, there is no small element of "the money comes
>from the one most able to pay". We get that here sometimes.
 
It's called "joint and several liability".
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 18 01:10PM -0600

> Just curious, what would you use for that filter cap "lytic?
> The schematic says 16mf or over (weird).
 
A 22 uF will work just fine.
 
--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com
oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 18 12:58PM -0600

On Sat, 18 Feb 2017 09:18:23 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:
 
 
>What hard core old radio restorers do is remove the guts of old caps,
>insert a new one, then melt beeswax on the ends to seal them in. They
>then look like originals...
 
That sounds like a lot of work, and I doubt I will do it. However, how
would someone remove the guts from an old cap like that? The only thing
I can think of would be to use a drill press, (at a very low speed). But
maybe there is a better way.
 
>and figures the thing was never recapped and rips out all the carefully
>restored caps...
 
>John :-#)#
 
Yea, that is probably a good idea....
 
--
 
One other thing, does anyone know if there is a place that sells the
pointers for test gear? I bet there is a need. That old plastic seems
to have failed, and mine is broke off. I'll buy a replacement if they
are available and not too costly. Otherwise I guess I'll have to make
one from plexiglass.... (And somehow paint a line on it).
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 18 01:14PM -0600

> However, how would someone remove the guts from an old cap
> like that?
 
Hot air gun.
Heat it up until the wax runs, hold the tube and pull the
guts out by the lead.
 
> Otherwise I guess I'll have to make
> one from plexiglass.... (And somehow paint a line on it).
 
Scribe a line on the back side. Use Testor's black model
paint. wipe up excess.
 
 
--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 03:57AM -0500

In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 24 Feb 2017 02:29:06 -0500, micky
>including a warning that if one has not bought a data plan (and I was
>waiting until I got there) he should disable the cellular data or it
>will, when prompted to, connect to the internet as pay as you go.
 
Sorry. Wrong ng.
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 14 topics"

Post a Comment