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"Kenny" <me@privacy.net>: Feb 25 01:27AM wrote in message news:n0b1bc1agjpqo6l6es1kijs5nj4rhe8no3@4ax.com...   I could not resist buying this. A heavy Hammond Organ. It appears to be from the early 70's. A local second hand store had it for $5 marked (AS-IS). The wooden cabinet is near perfect. But there is no plug on the cord, so they could not test it (and they dont do any repairs).   I was hoping it had tube electronics, but it appears to be solid state, meaning that if there are circuit problems, I probably wont be able to fix it, since I only work with tubes. But I already know the speakers in these organs are worth a lot more than $5, and I can see making something from the wooden cabinet.   This is likely one of the most complex pieces of electronics I ever will attempt to fix. Then again, for all I know, it may work once I put a plug on the cord.... (It looks like the plug was torn off when they moved it).   Either way, I know I got my $5 worth of parts at the least...   This thing is heavy, heavy, heavy.... The workers at the store were all women and did not want to help load it. And I have physical problems which limit me. So I still need to get some guys to help me with it next week. I just paid for it and they have my name on it, marked SOLD.   Before I left, I wrote down the model #.   I am NOT finding any schematic online. If any of you know where to find one, it's a model # 227214. Appears to be called a "Aurora Custom 1 (AV28)" (from what I could find online).   I am no organist, but if I can get this thing working, I know I'll have fun with it....   photos of the innards of a similar model: https://monkey.org/~smart/hammond/index.html   top view https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hammond_Aurora_Classic.jpg   This any help? https://archive.org/details/HSM4952016 Maybe try this forum: http://www.organforum.com/forums/   Kenny

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 24 04:59PM -0600 I could not resist buying this. A heavy Hammond Organ. It appears to be from the early 70's. A local second hand store had it for $5 marked (AS-IS). The wooden cabinet is near perfect. But there is no plug on the cord, so they could not test it (and they dont do any repairs).   I was hoping it had tube electronics, but it appears to be solid state, meaning that if there are circuit problems, I probably wont be able to fix it, since I only work with tubes. But I already know the speakers in these organs are worth a lot more than $5, and I can see making something from the wooden cabinet.   This is likely one of the most complex pieces of electronics I ever will attempt to fix. Then again, for all I know, it may work once I put a plug on the cord.... (It looks like the plug was torn off when they moved it).   Either way, I know I got my $5 worth of parts at the least...   This thing is heavy, heavy, heavy.... The workers at the store were all women and did not want to help load it. And I have physical problems which limit me. So I still need to get some guys to help me with it next week. I just paid for it and they have my name on it, marked SOLD.   Before I left, I wrote down the model #.   I am NOT finding any schematic online. If any of you know where to find one, it's a model # 227214. Appears to be called a "Aurora Custom 1 (AV28)" (from what I could find online).   I am no organist, but if I can get this thing working, I know I'll have fun with it....   photos of the innards of a similar model: https://monkey.org/~smart/hammond/index.html   top view https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hammond_Aurora_Classic.jpg

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 25 08:27PM -0600 On Sat, 25 Feb 2017 17:48:00 -0600, "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net> wrote:   >out of production for many years.   >Cheers, >Dave M   This is a good suggestion. I'll give it a try!   Thanks   ----

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 25 12:16AM In article <n0b1bc1agjpqo6l6es1kijs5nj4rhe8no3@4ax.com>, oldschool@tubes.com says...   > top view > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hammond_Aurora_Classic.jpg   Wow, looks like the sort of thing that should rise into view in a cinema on a lift being played very ostentatiously (Carlo Curley or Liberace?)...   Mike.

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 24 09:33PM "amdx" <nojunk@knology.net> wrote in message news:o8isvk$b26$1@dont-email.me... >> you have any in you junk box please contact me.   > You can't come up with an old portable AM radio to scrap it from? > Go to Goodwill or Salvation Army or a yard sale,   Any portable set old enough to have a 3/8" ferrite rod could have some value as a collectible. Some of the shirt pocket transistor radios with the little ferrite slab are even more valuable.   The all in one pre-micro music centers usually have a proper ferrite rod, as do most separates tuner units.   They have almost no resale value, except high end separates.

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 24 09:35PM "radiotek" <radiotek.12f352d8@diybanter.com> wrote in message news:radiotek.12f352d8@diybanter.com... > ferrite rod.   > I just purchased a few junker radios from ebay and saved a lot.   > I do appreciate you trying to help.   Could be worth researching collectibles values before ripping.   Some might be worth refurbishing.

Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Feb 24 04:46PM -0500 On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 14:00:20 -0500, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote:   >company (but who is not interested in questions like the one in my OP) >who is normally a stickler for things, agreed that I didnt' have to have >a battery to run the alarm, since outages are so rare here.   That seems like an odd thing for your friend to say. Alarm systems have batteries so the bad guys can't disable them by cutting power to your house. Same with the phone lines used to dial out for help. It is easy to cut land lines. That's why newer alarm panels often use cellular. Not perfect, but it takes more knowledge and equipment to jam a cellular call than to cut landline phone wires.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 24 01:50PM > A few things:   > Alarms from the factory have a DEFAULT code built   YOU PROBABLY GAVE THE CODE TO YOUR ALARM TO SITRE MAGANA SO HE CAN COME OVER AND YOU CAN ENJOY WATCHING HIM RAPE A DOG AND SERVICE A 72 YEAR OLD DUDE.

VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH>: Feb 24 04:43PM -0600 micky wrote:   > the dialer if there's a power failure. It's not meant to retain things > in memory except user-decided things like the time and which zones are > excluded.   You cannot program anything without power - unless this panel has dip, toggle, or other types of switches to hardwire in that "data".   Another possibility (already mentioned) is the use of EEPROM; however, there would need to exist power to raise the voltage to burn in the new values. Are there EEPROMs on the PCB?   How can you enter and save a security code without there being power? Electronically it is possible when there exists power that will be saved after power is lost (battery, capacitor, EEPROM) - but you still need power during that operation. From the images I found online, there are no switches on the PCB for that device, just a 4-pin header (S1) where you use jumpers:   http://s3.amazonaws.com/f01.justanswer.com/markpope123/2011-11-19_201731_2011-11-19_12.09.16.jpg   Ah, finally found something:   http://www.alarmsbc.com/dscpwr.htm#832 EEPROM memory - will not lose programming or system status on complete AC and battery failure I couldn't tell from the photos I found online if there was an EEPROM, plus the pics showed the component side of the PCB so I couldn't tell what, if anything, was on the other side. I cannot guarantee the above URL specifies only the 832 since the 5010 replaced it (and they might be showing the specs for the 5010).   An EEPROM still requires power to program it. EEPROM = electrically erasable programmable read-only memory. You need power to erase or program values into its storage. Some EEPROMs have a built-in charge pump to attain the higher voltage while others require external circuitry to apply the higher voltage. But the EEPROM requires power to program it. You said you entered in a new access code. That meant you must have connected it to power.   The values should stay in the EEPROM unless you did something by accident, like after plugging in the A/C power adapter. EEPROMs have a limited number of write cycles but I doubt you have programmed it a million times.   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EEPROM#Failure_modes (another possibility is a bad, weak, or leaky EEPROM)   There is mention of a maximum retention time of 10 years for values stored in EEPROMs. How long has this one been sitting idle and unconnected from power? *Oh oh*, "About 9 years ago I started to install a burglar alarm". I missed than in reading your original post. So you waited too long to refresh the EEPROM and the pics of the PCB don't exude an impression that this one has auto-refresh circuitry but then that would require power, too, and refreshing means more writes (so the EEPROM could get consumed by frequent refreshing).   The AlarmsBC web site has links to free manuals at:   http://www.alarmsbc.com/manuals.htm   I clicked on "DSC" and found 2 manuals for the 832 (5010) depending on the version of the unit. I looked at version 1 of the manual. Page 7 says how to program the access codes. No mention of enabling a switch or jumpering of the S1 header to program the EEPROM. However, there must be power available when using the device, even to program the access codes. There is no troubleshooting section in their manual.   Looks like the *oh oh* problem is that you expected the EEPROM without refresh to retain its values forever. EEPROMs leak the charges (hopefully slowly) but those charges do dissipate over time. 9 years is too close to the 10-year claim for retention (and who knows what quality of EEPROMs went into this device).   [E]EPROMs have a shelf life regarding retention. They have a finite data retention time. DSC probably didn't expect something laying around for a decade to still need to use the same access code. Who'd remember that after a decade's absence? They begin to forget their data after 10-15 years. Yours was on the shy side of that. Mask ROMs don't have that problem because the values are etched (burned) permanently into the chip at production time. There are SuperFlash EEPROMs that claim data retention for 20-100 years (but that's still finite); see http://www.sst.com/technology/sst-superflash-technology/first-generation-esf1. That was introduced back in 1993. Don't know if DSC used any. PC mobos adopted them.   After 10 years of absence (no refresh) with or without power is too long to expect no degradation (data corruption or loss) for EEPROMs.

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 24 09:22PM "MJC" <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote in message news:MPG.33194c2971864c29c@news.plus.net...   > Is there anything that I can do for some more diagnosis? The > motherboards is a GA-8ISXT-FS and the PSU FSP300-60ATV with a 20-pin > main power connector.   Inspecting the electrolytic capacitors on both items is the place to start.   An ESR meter would take the guesswork out of it, but the good ones aren't cheap. The most usual sign is bulged tops on the capacitor cans, but they can also appear slightly sunken - if they're running hot enough to build up a head of steam, they can lose electrolyte through the end seal - when they cool, a vacuum forms inside. Since dodgy electrolytics tend to get hot, the plastic covering sleeve can deteriorate giving the capacitor a tired shabby appearance.   If an ATX PSU is reluctant to start; keep trying is a bad idea - they can suddenly burst into life without any regulation!

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 24 10:18PM In article <Jt1sA.573666$he2.19680@fx22.am4>, Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com says... > ... > If an ATX PSU is reluctant to start; keep trying is a bad idea - they can > suddenly burst into life without any regulation!   Thanks - wow, concentrating on the PSU stand-alone and not plugged into the m/b seems like a Good Idea!   Mike.

tlvp <mPiOsUcB.EtLlLvEp@att.net>: Feb 20 05:12PM -0500 On Sun, 19 Feb 2017 13:00:11 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote, re #878#:   >>"Announcement for switch [digit] [digit] [digit] dash [digit]."   > I tried it again and got the same thing as you ending in "Announcement > for switch 40-6". 40 is the SID (system identifier) for the San Fran...   Sure enough, the digits I heard indicate several VZW centers in my state.   > The 6 is the NID (network identifier).   My NID digit was "2". Technically, though I'm on the Verizon network, I'm activated on Page Plus Cellular. No idea what difference that may make.   Anyway, thanks for the SID lookup URL. Cheers, -- tlvp -- Avant de repondre, jeter la poubelle, SVP.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 18 07:48PM -0800 On Sat, 18 Feb 2017 21:14:27 +0000 (UTC), Stijn De Jong >Beta is the Southeast FACING vertical antenna on the cell tower >Gamma is the Southwest FACING vertical antenna on the cell tower >http://www.evdoforums.com/thread15374.html   I dialed #878# and got: "Welcome to Verizon Wireless. Your call cannot be completed as dialed..."   >cell id. Also, the newer Android APIs now seem to expose the frequency >bands: >http://people.csail.mit.edu/bkph/cellular_repeater_inside.shtml   Nice article. I think there is a way of extracting the sector but I don't know what it might be and am too lazy to work it out right now. My leaky roof and irate customers come first.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 22 08:47PM -0500 I have one of thoe little 2.5" LED flashlights, that have 9 small LEDs and use 3 AAA batteries. It's like the ones that Harbor Freight sometimes gives away free, same size, but nicer.   The guy I bought the first one from said it would run for days on one set of batteries, but I forgot that it was still on and i put it in my pocket and an hour or two later, I noticed it was on because it was warm.   It's still really bright, but if it's noticeably warm, how long can the baterries really last? Certainly not two days. ?     I once, recently, forgot the screen was lit on my 5.5" smart phone and only noticed because it felt warm in my pocket.   It's got a proximity sensor but I don't remember what it's supposed to do.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 24 03:53PM -0600 On Wed, 22 Feb 2017 20:47:57 -0500, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote:   >only noticed because it felt warm in my pocket.   >It's got a proximity sensor but I don't remember what it's supposed to >do.   I buy these at Walmart for $1 each. I use them a lot. I have left them on overnight and they still work, but that greatly shortens the battery life. If they are not left on for long periods of time, they last weeks and that is being used almost daily. For a buck each, I usually buy 5 at a time and that keep me with working flashlites for a few months. I keep one in the car, one in the truck, one in the house and a few other places.   Unless I can buy batteries real cheap at some dollar store, (like 8 batteries for a buck), it's not worth replacing the batteries. I just toss them and buy more flashlights which cost $1 WITH batteries. I have never had any of them get hot or cause any problems at all. I did have a few with switch problems, but very few. Since I have plenty ones with dead batteries, I just swap the batteries from one with a bad switch to one that still works.   I have saved the LEDs from a lot of them that I toss. Not sure why, but some day they might have a use... I guess these are just meant to be used and disposed..... But I have replaced the batteries a few times too.   Either way, they are 1000X better than the old flashlights I grew up with, that had very short battery life and almost always developed switch problems after a month or less.

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Feb 24 01:44PM -0800 In article <383537d2-ce37-4a8e-8685-af05d9983fc2@googlegroups.com>,   >> (If the cells are wired in parallel instead of series, then you are >> correct, but that isn't very common.)   >The three similar lights I have, they are in parallel. Which is why I probably wrongly assumed these were as well.   If they're in parallel, then they almost certainly aren't driving the LEDs directly... a blue LED (with or without a white phosphor) requires more than 3 volts in order to conduct.   So, if they're in parallel and are feeding only 1.5 volts into the LED head, there is probably a voltage-boost circuit (e.g. a "Joule Thief") which is stepping up the voltage before it reaches the LEDs.   And, the step-up comes at a cost. If the Joule Thief has to triple the voltage before it feeds the LEDs, and the LEDs are drawing a total of 100 mA at that voltage, then the Joule Thief will be pulling 300 mA or more out of the batteries.   There ain't no free lunch, alas.   A simple series arrangement is less expensive, but it'll end up wasting some power in a current-limiting resistor (unless the flashlight makers go _really_ cheap) and the flashlight will slowly dim as the battery runs down. A step-up circuit can feed a fairly constant current through the LEDs until the batteries are almost completely exhausted, and it allows for a "variable brightness" feature (pulse-width-modulate the LEDs, or step up to a lower voltage which results in a lower current).

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 24 01:54PM > Funny thing, these types of lights are often give-away items at Solar Energy conferences - > I have been to my fair share, and how they came into my hands. Otherwise I would not touch this cr*p on a bet.   FUNNY THING, THESE TYPES OF SEXUALLY TRANSMITTED DISEASES ARE OFTEN GIVE AWAY ITEMS AT GAY ORGIES. PETER WRECK HAS BEEN TO HIS FAIR SHARE, AND HOW THEY CAME INTO HIS HANDS. OTHERWISE HE WOULD TOUCH SITRE MAGANA'S DICK FOR FREE.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 21 04:07PM -0600 >type solder suckers is cleaning them. You can shake a fair amount of the >old solder out of the bulb but quite a bit remains. You have to be >imaginative and patient to get it out.   I've never seen the blue ones, but I remember having a lot of problems with the tip getting clogged in the red one.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 20 06:37AM -0600 Back in the 70s, I used a red bulb with a special plastic tip that did not melt. They were cheap and did a fair job. Then there was solder wick. That worked well on PC boards, but not real well on terminal strips and tube sockets. Plus is was fairly costly.   So, what's the latest in desoldering gadgets? I need to get something for recapping, and am not sure what to buy. I see both of the (above) are still sold.   One other thing, I should pick up some pot and switch cleaner. I know this has greatly changed due to clean air laws. Where do I even begin getting something that works well, and is not overly priced? (Brand name)? I hope they have not made useless cleaners, like they have done with auto products. (I remember when carb cleaner actually cleaned!!! )   Since it appears that most online stores have a rather large minimum order as well as high shipping fees, I am limited to Radio Shack, unless there is some smaller online source that sells in small quanties, or maybe ebay. But buying online I need to know what I am ordering ahead of time.   I'll be using this almost entirely on 40 to 60 year old tube type electronics.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 21 02:09PM -0600 >located at Redstone.   >John >John DeArmond   I did not find that one on the web, but I did find THIS: http://alex-audio.com/en/prod/world-biggest-speaker/   The Woofers are 80 inches each.... Handle 5000 watts per channel.   Heck, that would involve a power amp with around 200 6L6 or 807 tubes in Push-Pull Parallel-Parallel-Parallel-Parallel etc... For EACH channel...... (And an output transformer about 3 foot big, weighing close to the weight of a Harley motor cycle, and costing 10X the price for a brand new Harley).....

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 20 07:37PM -0800 >Back in the 70s, I used a red bulb with a special plastic tip that did >not melt.   Sigh. That goes way back. I graduated to a pump type desoldering tool as soon as they were available: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/300771835247> For $1.15/ea, get a pile of them.   Solder wick is useful for some things, but I avoid using it. Details if you want them later.   Next, I bought and rebuilt a Pace desoldering station: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/pace-desoldering-station.jpg> It worked well for me for many years. I now have several similar machines.   I then went to a hot air SMT desoldering station. Not this one, but this is what I would recommend: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/191557453776> However, I would not use it on terminal strips or tube socket. It's made for PCB's only.   >I need to get something for recapping, and am not sure what to buy. I >see both of the (above) are still sold.   For recapping, I use just a soldering iron to heat both leads of the capacitor alternately and just rock the capacitor out. Or, I cut off the capacitor and extract the leads one at a time. That leaves the holes plugged with solder, which I remove with either the hand pump or the Pace desoldering station. I suggest something like this: <http://www.ebay.com/131493990376>       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 20 07:46AM -0600 > So, what's the latest in desoldering gadgets?   One of these. <http://www.ebay.com/itm/381865048840>   > One other thing, I should pick up some pot and switch > cleaner.   <https://www.radioshack.com/products/deoxit-d5s-6-spray-contact-cleaner-and-rejuvenator>           -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 22 08:58PM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Wed, 22 Feb 2017 11:27:45 -0500, R2D4 >model that will last. This definitely isn't like the blanket I had >while growing up 25 years ago; that one lasted for 15 years with no >issues.   This might be a good excuse to buy a kill-o-watt meter.   Also you could use a regular ohm or volt meter clipped to a hat pin -- well I guess it's hard to find a hat pin, but you couldl use a corsage pin == with a nice enlarged head and I think you could puncture the insulatio at various places along the route until you find a spot where it's not proportional. I don't this would cause any visible harm or any danger. (once you take out the pin, that is.) Then you could cut into the blanket and figure out what's going on. Or maybe, the litle devils is in the control box. Might be even easer to debug and disarm.   When I first started on electrical repairs, not counting the Lionel train, it was the family's '52 Hudson. The battery was dead every morning. All I had for test equipemnt was an AC cord, a socket, a 40 watt lighbulb, and an icepick. But it was enough.

sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Feb 24 04:42PM -0500 > This new Sunbeam heated mattress pad we picked up last fall will be > used no more than a max of 4 out of 10 (no preheat which does a level > 10 for 30 min).   That's quite possible. All I was suggesting is that forgoing Preheat (which is my favorite mode!) may not do that much comparing it's 20 minutes with the rest of the 10 hours on period even if at the 4/10 setting.   Depending on size, the normal current when in the on part of the cycle is order of 0.5 and 1.5 A. However, since the current decreases as it heats, it's not really possible to provide exact values. But measuring and recording it when cold at the start of each season could be useful.   When first turned on, regardless of whether Preheat is selected, some of these (or all) turn on at a constant (though possibly not full) power for a minute or two before the PWB kicks in.   -- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html   Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 25 02:27PM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 24 Feb 2017 18:47:49 -0800 (PST),   >> That you didn't know what H20 or Redpocket are. I don't either but I >> just feel ignorant.   >A Redpocket is something I thought I might find in a Redcoat..   Of course!   >> If you don't know what Saturday is, you're definitely old.   >Ah... reprieved (I think). If "Saturday" is still the sixth day of the week, I've got at least some time left!   I think it's only the sixth day of the week in France.   If you're using windows and you click on the time in the lower right corner, a calendar comes up and Saturday is 7th.

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