sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

"Mr. Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com>: Feb 04 08:01PM +0800 On 4/02/2017 6:41 AM, Jon Elson wrote: > them clean. I have some other breakers in the shop that are used as > shutoffs for various machines, and they never do this, I guess because the > contacts are exercised routinely.   Thank you for sharing.     -- @~@ Remain silent! Drink, Blink, Stretch! Live long and prosper!! / v \ Simplicity is Beauty! /( _ )\ May the Force and farces be with you! ^ ^ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.39.3 不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA): http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_pubsvc/page_socsecu/sub_addressesa

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 02:03AM -0800 >"Yeah, but he keeps stomping his left foot on the floor where the clutch pedal is SUPPOSED to be every time he come up to a light or stop sign. Don't ask how I know about this - 30 years of primarily driving stick. "   He makes another mistake but I am not going to tell him how to drive. He puts it is neutral at stoplights and then jas it into first when it is time to take off.   I don't know about you but I have found that usually the throwout bearing is cheaper and easier to replace than the first gear synchronizers.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 02:16AM -0800 >"Ummm, try running Linux! No EULA at all, you are ENCOURAGED to browse the source code. "   I have a few versions of it kicking around here and have tried them. Too many things to learn how to do on it for now.   Though I might be forced as my old XP and Vista (yuk) will eventually quit. If you see me buying a new version of Windows please shoot me, I mean it.   I have never paid for Windows except in a preloaded machine, and won't and I have no shame about it. Every EULA says I am buying nothing so I'll give them exactly what it is worth. Nothing.   If I live too long, Linux will be inevitable. I might have to take up some hobbies involving very fast cars, lighter than air hydrogen aircraft and the like. (I know how to make hydrogen)

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 02:37AM -0800 >"I are an engineer (of sorts). All my vehicles have had stick shifts since about 1970. In the past, it was because stick shifts got better gas mileage, and were cheaper. I even converted one old vehicle from automatic to manual (because the junk yard wanted less for the manual than a rebuild would have cost me for the automatic). Today, it's purely psychological and maybe a little macho. "   For better or worse you have discarded a few facts. We are a car family, or were until people started dying off. There is one automatic transmission that will outperform a stick in a certain weight class - the THM400.   They do funny things with the torque convertor that makes it take off from the hole at about 5:1. You simply can't put a gearset in a stick that big. I think a bunch of high end luxury cars still use the THM400, rolls maybe or whatever ?   When you put a bigger gearset into a stick it is more prone to failure, which is quite catastophic I mean really don't even try to rebuild it. The valve body in the THM400 is a veritable analog computer running on hydraulics and it really does know better when to shift than you do. The beauty of the THM400 is that the gearset only gets it down to (IIRC) 2.73:1, the torque convertor takes up the rest. Then it smoothly settles to the 2.73:1 and soon thereafter shifts into second. Note that it does not shift out of first, first is still engaged but on a one way clutch. that makes for a smoother shift and actually if you have to tromp on it a smoother downshift as well.   When theey went to front wheel drive trannies got to be a pain. No more onee way clutch in most of them which means if the cable is not set right you get a big clunk as you coast down to a red light. If you are concerned with mileage you know exactly why I mean, you could never feel the old trannies shift like that.   What's worse, if some stupid little solennoid ggoes bad in these new electronically controlled trannnies it throws a code, even though it is only maybe passing gear or whatever, and then you can't get plates. And for some reason, unless he was lied to bigtime, I know someone who had a Ford with a Triton V8 that when three solenoids went bad in the tranny it mimiced the symptoms of jumped cam timing. I still think he was lied to but why would his mechanic go and have some valves replaced in the interference engine and do the timing irons instead of just replacing three solenoids ?   And now cars run Windows ? They gotta be kidding.   I want a 1967 Chevy. I liked my 1970 Toronado, but really it was trouble waiting to happen. First of all it was too fast. It could be beat but not in traffic. Plus every part cost a fortune, even the muffler was $300. (evacuator system) Too much, I need to get from point A to point B, and just as important back to point A. That means I do not need ridiculously priced parts on the car that have to be ordered from bumfuckt Sweden somewhere.   Hell, give me a model T and a propane heater.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 02:42AM -0800 >"In October I bought a brand new 2012 Mustang convertible with the stick shift. (It had 200 or so miles on it--it had got caught up in the Takata airbag mess, so the dealer couldn't sell it for ages.) Got a nice discount too--it wound up being the price of my daughter's Kia econobox. :) "   Well first of all you just disconnect those air bags and watch where you are going. I bet you still can in a 2012, but you may have to put a resistor in there or something to simulate a load.   One thing that probably helped your negotiations on that car was that people today don't really go for stick shifts. They have to play farmville, text and talk on the phone whilst keeping an eye on their chipped dog and watching insidd their house to see if anyone is stealing their plasma TV. Also they have to update their facebook every three minutes or their dear friends (who would kill them in an alley usually) don't think they're dead. Or something.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 02:51AM -0800 >"I once bought a new 1967 Mustang (after I trashed my mother's car). 200 cid engine, 3 speed manual transmission (of course), and zero options. It was truly an economy car. "   I had a couple of Pintos. both stick. In fact that was when I started playing around with valve timing and learned quite a bit. then later Porsche or someone came out with variable valve timing. Whoever Ford bought for a while...   There are models that have not only vaariable valve timing but also direct cylinder fuel ijection. these are high end models and unfortunately with those you are stuck with their electronics, if you can call it that.   But I did notice things. Turn the camone way offf and you can slip your foot o ff the clutch in third and it peels tires and does not stall. however in NO GEAR wil it do over 45 MPH. Go the other way and you have to feather the clutch in, even in first gear, as if you were taking off in third. But past a certain RPM the thing would take off like a bat out of hell. So obviously making it variable is a good idea and I tried to work out some sort of mechanical arrangement to do so but I had no machines, not even a bandsaw, and I never could weld. So much for that.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 02:54AM -0800 <"On top of that, it used to be you could bump start a car with a manual transmission and a low battery but modern fuel injection requires too much juice for a bump start with a low battery"   There are other problems. When you turn the key on it only charges the fuel system for a few seconds.   And yes, I found out one day that some cars actually use more juice running than starting. Between the ridiculous firing current and voltage, then you got anywhere from four to sixteen fuel injectors. The car would literally crank but not start unless it had a jump.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 03:37AM -0800 >"From things I have read it seems that some of the onboard computers are getting to be about like the 'black boxes' on airplanes. There was some talk of letting the police download the data in accidents to see what the speed of the car was and other things. "   Years ago there was a politician who had a wreck and insisted on a sobreity test. There was speculation that he tried to kill himself but without a fit of morality I don't see why.   Of course it was all forgotten in a few days, as is the tradition here, but I have my own speculation. One of the reasons he insisted on the test is because the road was icy and I suspect he was going off the road and spinning his wheels trying to get back on. In such a case the black box would have reported the vehicle speed at probably 120 MPH or whatever when it was going maybe 40 MPH with the gas to the metal and the wheel turned toward the road.   There are at least a plethora of news stories about which I would like to see the followup. The problem is I guess you simply have to take names, literally. Like the doctor who filed for a variance on a gag act about discussing his nephrology patients' kidney problems brought on by fracking materials, I remember the name Rodriguez and that it was Pennsylvania where they judge pretty much told him to fuck off, but to more easily get to the story I would have to remember his first name because he has a common last name.   It is impractiacl to save searches and also to bookmark anything because then you have 150,000 entries and can't make heads nor tails out of anything. so things get forgotten, like for example that Assad did not use the gas. Like a whole bunch of other things that get swept under the rug.   I know people who stupidly (well they are stupid) kept their dead Mother's body on storage for eight months. They did this because their Father was just ending a sentence in Utah and the one son had power of attorney though the Mother to dispense his affairs and he had PERS, which was a nice retirement. Well they got caught with eight UNCASHED SS checks of the Mother's and the news said they did it for her SS money. Now if they had done that, why would they be in possession of all the UNCASHED checks ? And her checks were chump change compared to his, but they had to keep that power of attorney alive until he got out.   I have seen many many other things and simply do not watch anymore. I sometimes watch the weather, and half the time that is wrong. world affairs, I will go to RT and PressTV first, then check it with the BBC and a few other places. I fact, foreign sources often have more precise coverage of US domestic issues though they put one hell of a liberal slant on it.   Like Australians, think we should take in all these refugees, but what do they do with them ? They keep them on an island ! Bunch of fucking hypocrites. and now Trump got in an argument with their PM. So what ?   Yup, 1967 Chevy, 283 and a stick, even a three on the tree. you know three speeds had better gears than many four speeds back then. The smaller and stronger gearset did not deliver the ratios and taking off in first was like somewhere between taking off in second and third. so them you needed to change the rear end and then you are doing 4,800 RPM at 60 MPH. So now you need a cam and a bore out and more carbs.   I drove a bunch of them and I remember - "Did I just shift or not ?". Bunch of junk really. Yeah, you could almost never blow a Muncie, but you sure did want to. Boatanchor.   I wonder what these black boxes do with a stick shift. Like asking that blode "What gear were you i n at the time of impact ?", "Oh, Nikes and a sweatsuit".

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Feb 03 11:48PM +0100 Just unlink the two winding by cutting at the middle point which is the common one (it makes 4 separate windins).   Then put them in parallel at primary and secondary (and in phase !).   Philips used to do this all the time.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 03 10:44PM -0800 Look165 wrote:     > Just unlink the two winding by cutting at the middle point which is the > common one (it makes 4 separate windins).   ** OK - so 240 & 240 plus 120 & 120.     > Then put them in parallel at primary and secondary (and in phase !).   ** Nah, that makes a 240 to 120 step down.   But only if the parallel pairs of windings have the *exact* same number of turns.   If not, you get major overheating.       .... Phil

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Feb 04 10:37AM +0100 Exact !! But for me it was obvious   Well...not completely exact :   What counts is the magnetic flux seen by the 2 windings ; Since they may not be at the very same place is might not imply the same number of turns.   Generally, these winding are executed (manually or automatically) by the "2-wire in hand" method.     Phil Allison a écrit :

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 04 02:58AM -0800 Look165 is a top posting nut case & troll e:     > Well...not completely exact :   > What counts is the magnetic flux seen by the 2 windings ; Since they may > not be at the very same place is might not imply the same number of turns.   ** More complete bollocks for a complete bullocker.     > Generally, these winding are executed (manually or automatically) by the > "2-wire in hand" method.     ** Not in the case of the 240V-240V windings, only a lunatic would wind them as a bifilar pair and rely on the enamel alone.   BTW:   You have no fucking clue about the insulation needed for a 1:1 isolation tranny - do you ??   Fucking tenth wit top poster troll.         .... Phil

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Feb 04 12:35PM +0100 Next time, try to think before replying.   Only a stupid idiot would connect primary and secondary in parallel.   What I was meaning is to disjoint the two half-windings and put them in parallel ON EACH SIDE.     The insulation in that casen is 240/2=120V (170V peak to peak).     I have designed hundreds of transformers in my life (certified UL EN etc..) and also planar transformers !   I realized several transformers for EDF (the French Electricity Corporation), all of them compliant.       Phil Allison a écrit :

Peter Easthope <petereasthope@gmail.com>: Feb 03 07:24PM -0800 A Pentium 4 with Intel system board here. When powered up the screen displays GB85010A.86A.0078.P18.0110081719 ... CMOS Battery Low CMOS Date/Time Not Set   No response to any keys when attempting to adjust date and time. No problem changing other BIOS parameters. This is only to prevent the user from adjusting the clock when it can't keep time with power off? A failure in the BIOS?   Thanks, ... Peter E.

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Feb 03 07:34PM -0800 Change the battery. It is possible that the low battery condition is preventing any further action.   Dan

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Feb 04 10:40AM +0100 The parameters of the BIOS are grooved in a Flash memory   THe date/time comes from a clock circuit ; it needs a higher minimum voltage for operate   Peter Easthope a écrit :

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Feb 04 11:29AM On 04/02/17 03:24, Peter Easthope wrote: > CMOS Battery Low > CMOS Date/Time Not Set   > No response to any keys when attempting to adjust date and time.   Check the onscreen instructions carefully (normally on the bottom row) on what keys to press to change item values. Sometimes it's F5/F6, sometimes something else like direct entry (guess you tried that).   -- Adrian C

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 03 09:39PM -0800 > > ** No - that is absurd.   > > Old caps would have used solder lugs and bent support tags.   > That's true,     ** So there is no way the idea can work.   The metallic label is not transferable without visible damage.   Go fuck yourself - idiot.       ..... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 03 09:49PM -0800 Some fuckwit called Wieck wrote:       > Phil is reasoning from one single incident in 2013 (the Fender) > to the general.   ** The Fender is irrelevant, the CE cap was **exactly** as pictured in the advertising. A silver metallic label placed over a cap the was corroded out from old age.       > Not only that, but as he did not actually purchase the offending > item directly, he has no idea which bin it came from - NOS or New Stock.     ** There are no "old stock" ones from CE that look exactly like that ones in the advertising - you LYING PILE Of SHIT !!!   Get cancer & die you sick, lunatic old fart.       ..... Phil

ohger1s@gmail.com: Feb 04 03:04AM -0800 On Saturday, February 4, 2017 at 12:39:05 AM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:   > Go fuck yourself - idiot.   > ..... Phil     Wait, you *tried* to remove that particular label back four years ago in anticipation of this discussion?   With a little care, labels are not difficult to cleanly remove in most cases.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 04 03:14AM -0800 ohg...@gmail.com wrote:   Phil Allison wrote:   > > ..... Phil   > Wait, you *tried* to remove that particular label back four years ago   ** Read the **thread** you trolling, illiterate, fucking MORON !!!   OTOH, there's no pint - it's all way over a maggot infested, autistic brain like yours.   Go fuck your mother.         .... Phil

analogdial <analogdial@mail.com>: Feb 04 05:27AM > (as well as the other plastic encased ones with the numbers on them > instead of the color bands).   > That's conflicting info. Yet I know that all of them are paper caps.   In my opinion, the Black Beauties with color bands on them are bad news. Worse than wax dipped paper caps. They crack, leak oil and sometimes fail hard -- short circuit. As far as I know, all the Black Beauties with bands are oil filled.   I've seen old 50s magazines with full page ads claiming wonderful things for the oil filled Black Beauties and it sure seemed like a good idea. Steel can paper in oil caps are much more reliable than wax dipped paper caps, why not paper in oil in a plastic tube? Didn't work out that way, I don't know why. Maybe the plastic outgassed something nasty into the cap. Some of the paper in oil Black Beauties had standard numeric marking rather than bands. The paper in oil Black Beauties can be identified by a soldered lead on one side of the cap.   The second generation Black Beauties were actually OK. They used a mylar-paper dielectric which held up about as well as all the advertising promised for the first gen Black Beauties.   But the damage to the reputation of the Black Beauty had been done and the Orange Drop became Sprague's high end film cap.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 03 10:19PM -0800 Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > >shorter life than the old ones did.   > Nope. The old ones filtered at 120 Hz. The new caps filter at 100 to > 300 KHz. Internal dissipation follows frequency.   ** Complete bollocks.   Electro cap dissipation is lower at high frequencies cos the ESR is lower at such frequencies.   The no 1 reason for short lifspan is being sited next to heat sources, like power resistors and heatsinks.   The no 2 reason is bad manufacture by no name brands in China etc.     ..... Phil

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 04 03:32AM -0600 On Fri, 03 Feb 2017 16:40:48 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:     >The preceding caps were bumble bee caps, which were oiled paper >dielectric. The succeeding caps were orange drop caps which are >metalized mylar dielectric.   In my youth, the most common caps I replaced were 'lytics. Next in line were wax coated tubular paper caps. Only once do I remember replacing a "black beauty". That was because it had a crack down on side of it, which tells me that it was likely bad, and if it wasn't, I knew it needed to be replaced anyhow, before it did absorb moisture and fail. I did replace a few ceramic disks, but that was bcause I broke them while unsoldering other stuff.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 04 04:28AM -0600 On Fri, 3 Feb 2017 22:05:48 -0000, "Benderthe.evilrobot" >> the same unit over and over as they fail one after another. Been there, >> done that.   >So have I.   I can totally understand what you are saying. However, I am not so sure about whether I would want to replace all of them in certain parts of a radio or tv. Here are my thoughts on this.   Lets take my Hallicrafters SX-99 (which I paid for but dont have yet). That radio is 62 years old. (made in 1955). The seller said it works fine, (and I was sent a video of it working. I did detect a very slight hum. (But the video's audio is not the greatest).   So, as soon as I get it and play around with it, I will replace the electrolytics in the power supply and any other 'lytics (if there are others). Even if there is no hum, I'd replace them, just based on age.   However, this is a working radio. I ask myself if I really want to replace all the other (small) caps. [Then I say to myself.... if it works, dont fix it].   But, I know there are caps in specific circuits more likely to fail, than in other circuits. Those would be caps connected to the high plate voltages, especially at the audio output tubes and in the power supply. I also know that if those short out, they can damage other parts, such as tubes, resistors, and more. So, I would likely consider replacing those. I might even consider replacing ALL the caps in the power supply, and all audio stages, and feel safe doing that, since those caps are not real critical as far as affecting the overall performance of the radio, even if the new caps are a little different in their capacitance.   Where I do NOT feel comfortable changing them, are in all RF and IF stages. The reason is that I know that a cap/coil circuit plays a big part in the inductance, which affects the radio alignment. I am not equipped to align the radio coils, and would prefer to leave them alone, as long as the radio is getting good reception.   I also know that those RF and IF stages do not operate on as high voltages as do the audio output stages. So, once again, I ask myself, "Do I really want to risk throwing this radio out of alignment, when it's working fine, and knowing those caps are not as likely to fail".   I answer myself "Probably not".... (As long as the radio is working well, dont screw up a good thing.... Then too, if the caps in those circuits are .05 or .003, I WANT a .05, not a .047. (And it seems that .05 is no longer made).   So, if I'm satisfied with the performance of this radio, I will replace the 'lytics regardless. I may also replace all caps AFTER the volume control, as well as all caps in the power supply. But I will likely NOT touch any caps in the RF and IF stages.   That's my thinking on all of this right now. Not just for this radio, but anything..... Now, if it were simply an audio amplifier, I'd likely replace all the caps, because audio is not all that critical.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.