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Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 04 08:08PM -0800 > > ** There are no "old stock" ones from CE that look exactly like that ones in the advertising - you LYING PILE Of SHIT !!!   > There are old-stock caps from Mallory and others that CE sells as > OLD STOCK CAPS, complete with new shiny label.   ** But not like this one:   https://www.cedist.com/products/capacitor-ce-mfg-475v-20202020-f-electrolytic   This is EXACTLY the same as the one I opened up.     You are nothing but a vile, lying pile of shit - Wieck.   You a extremely autistic, have zero honesty and are completely FUCKED in the head.   Evil pigs like you need to die a horrible death.       .... Phil

ohger1s@gmail.com: Feb 05 08:07AM -0800 On Saturday, February 4, 2017 at 6:14:06 AM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:   > Go fuck your mother.   > .... Phil   I did read the thread Phil, most of it at least. A lot of becomes murky in the presence of the filth you strew around here like your own private litter box. Hard to keep my concentration actually.   But if I've read this correctly, what you're saying is that after four years you remember exactly how the label came off the can? It's not possible that you, in a fit of an obnoxious vile, expletive laden rage, just ripped the label off in that triumphant "aha" moment? I know some might say that's just not sweet Phil's personality but it's still a remote possibility...   Most everyone else who reads this group and those in the many other forums you've polluted over the years with your keyboard defecation have seen you exposed for the infantile pill that you are. You are a coward who bullies behind the protection of the internet. You might actually garner a bit of respect if you acted the same way in front of a real person, but we all know that cowards don't do that.

Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>: Feb 05 12:21AM On Sat, 04 Feb 2017 04:28:09 -0600, oldschool wrote:     > That's my thinking on all of this right now. Not just for this radio, > but anything..... Now, if it were simply an audio amplifier, I'd likely > replace all the caps, because audio is not all that critical.   I think that there is a misunderstanding here. The statement to replace all the capacitors actually means all the electrolytic and paper capacitors. Usually ceramic and mica capacitors are still good and nobody replaces those unless they are proven to be bad.   The paper capacitors in the IF and RF stages need to be replaced even if the radio "works". Leaky capacitors change the voltages on the tubes causing them to work at less than their best performance. Also, these capacitors are used as supply bypasses and AVC filter capacitors. They do not affect the alignment of the set; the ceramic and mica capacitors may. Their value is not particularly critical; pick the closest modern value.   Consider the value issue. If the radio has a .05 uF, 20% capacitor in it, its actual value can be anywhere from 0.04 uF to 0.06 uF. A modern 0.047 uF 10% capacitor can be between .0423 uF and 0.0517 uF. So the 0.047 uF capacitor can be closer to 0.05 uF than the old one marked with that value.   As for life expectancy, there was a time in the late '50s and early '60s when both paper and plastic film capacitors were used. The paper capacitors I have from that period are universally bad while the plastic film ones are almost always good. Plastic film has passed the test of time.   As for what type of plastic film to use, polyester (AKA Mylar) is the cheapest and has the poorest performance. But it is still better than the paper capacitors of old so it is suitable for use just about anywhere a paper capacitor was formerly used. Polycarbonate (no longer made) and polypropylene are better but more expensive. Polystyrene capacitors are also very good and inexpensive but are usually seen only in small values and are frequently not seen at all. They also have the problem that they melt at lower temperatures than other plastic capacitors and solvents dissolve them. Still, within their limitations, they are excellent.   -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com   To get my real email address, replace wrongname with dadoheadman. Then replace nospam with fastmail. Lastly, replace com with us.

Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>: Feb 05 12:42AM Wow, this thread has really taken off. It's almost like the old days of Usenet!   -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com   To get my real email address, replace wrongname with dadoheadman. Then replace nospam with fastmail. Lastly, replace com with us.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 04 06:45PM -0600 >Progress is incremental. Those capacitors had major advantages over what >came before. The "dry" electrolytics that followed them had further >advantages. That's how things go.   I know the dry 'lytics were better, I have to ask what came before these wet ones with the vent hole? I really dont know...   One thing I liked about those wet ones was the threaded nut on the bottom. Very easy to install and remove! Those twist tabs on the dry caps in the metal cans tended to break off quite easily, if the cap was being removed to be reused elsewhere, and if one was soldered, it was even harder. (generally one was soldered).

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 04 06:53PM -0600 On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 17:05:43 -0600, Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:     >They are good parts. A bit over priced however. And yes, radial >leads instead of axial. Can be an issue when you're replacing >axial lead parts.   I wonder why they dont make them both radial and axial? I'd think that it's just a matter of rerouting the wires from the same innards.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 04 07:25PM -0600 >do not affect the alignment of the set; the ceramic and mica capacitors >may. Their value is not particularly critical; pick the closest modern >value.   I hear you.....   >0.047 uF 10% capacitor can be between .0423 uF and 0.0517 uF. So the >0.047 uF capacitor can be closer to 0.05 uF than the old one marked with >that value.   OK. That makes sense...   >a paper capacitor was formerly used. Polycarbonate (no longer made) and >polypropylene are better but more expensive. Polystyrene capacitors are >also very good and inexpensive but are usually seen only in small values   I see where this can get confusing. I'll consider the polyester (AKA Mylar), but for the small cost difference, I'd probably prefer the best. It looks like polypropylene would be that choice.   Do you have any brand names to recommend for these types? (I will be buying online, there are no electronics stores around here).   >and are frequently not seen at all. They also have the problem that they >melt at lower temperatures than other plastic capacitors and solvents >dissolve them. Still, within their limitations, they are excellent.   Dont you mean they melt at a *HIGHER* temperature? I cant imagine how something could melt at a low temp?   Upon reading a URL that somone posted on here, I see where the audiophliles say that some caps have better sound quality, than others. On a SW radio, I'm not really looking for "precision sound", but more so for best performance from the signal coming from the antenna to the speaker. And while some (or most) of these newer types of caps are made to be used with modern gear, containing semiconductors, which are the best choice for old tube stuff. I would think that the caps should mimic the old paper caps, because that is what these circuits were designed to use. I know the values of caps are the capcitance (in MF or MMF) and the voltage. But I know there are other factors that I know nothing about. Someone mentioned tempco (is that what I read?) in another message in this thread. What the heck is that?   Either way, I do believe the caps should be similar to the original ones to work properly. Just made from better materials.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 04 07:49PM -0600 >Wow, this thread has really taken off. It's almost like the old days of >Usenet!   I miss those days. The majority of newsgroups are either dead or filled with morons or off topic political based fighting and name calling these days. There were many worthwhile newsgroups that I used to enjoy, and I wont even go there anymore.   I cant understand where everyone went. I know almost everyon has an account with that miserable facebook these days (except me), but I cant say I have ever seen any useful discussions on FB. For the brief time I did connect to FB, what I saw was just a lot of links to websites dealing with world affairs, and lots of rude comments about them. Or pictures of people when they were drunk, with more rude comments.... Not to mention the 20 or more ads on each page. The day when FB becomes the entire internet, is the day I pull the plug. (And actually I cant even use FB if I did want to. My only affordable internet access is still dialup, because that's all there is in this rural area where I live, and bloated websites like FB and most of the news media sites wont even load anymore).

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 04 07:54PM -0600 > Do you have any brand names to recommend for these types? > (I will be buying online, there are no electronics stores > around here).   I get mine from here: <http://www.tuberadios.com/capacitors/>         -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

Bill Burns <ftldny@gmail.com>: Feb 04 10:55PM -0500 > with morons or off topic political based fighting and name calling these > days. There were many worthwhile newsgroups that I used to enjoy, and I > wont even go there anymore.   Hard to believe r.a.r+p dates back to September 1994. I was one of the founding members under my email address at the time, billb@savvy.com   http://fmamradios.com/RESULT-rar+p.txt   -- Bill

Nick Danger <nick@third.eye.net>: Feb 05 10:36AM -0500 >> teletype decoders --and the orange drops were very stable. (I >> know, I'm dating myself in this day and age of software/sound >> card RTTY decoders). :-)   On 2/4/2017 6:03 PM, Foxs Mercantile wrote:   > You and me brother. You and me. ;-) > As a side note, I'm still playing with RTTY and using a real > machine. A Lorenz Lo-15c. ;-)   Interesting...but I never had what I presume to be a European machine.   Started with a Model 15 KSR, then a Model 32 ASR and finally a Model 28 KSR -- with a home brew digital/electronic replacement for the paper tape. Today it's all pixels.

Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Feb 04 07:17PM -0500 On 2/4/2017 6:46 PM, Martim Ribeiro wrote:   > Can you just give me information on these two things so I'm better armed to > help? The apartment dwellers and I aren't technical and I never had cable > anyway since I'm on wisp.   Sort of legit. The Samsung is a wireless receiver. It is common to charge a rental fee for equipment, especially if it is a premium featured unit.   Not sure about the broadcast fee, it may be for local channels.   The regional sports fee is something the cable companies pay to LB, NFL, etc. While legal to charge, IMO it is like going to the store and getting a package of icecream. At the checkout they charge you $3 for the icecream and they add a 20 cent "refrigeration fee".   If you look at your phone or electric bills you see a long list of little charges. Cable companies do that too so they can advertise a low price and then add in the other items.   I argued with DirecTv about the sports fee and I don't watch sports. They would not remove it but they did give me a discount.

Martim Ribeiro <MartimXRibeiro@meo.pt>: Feb 05 02:18AM On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 19:17:49 -0500, in alt.home.repair,alt.interenet.wireless,sci.electronics.repair Ed Pawlowski wrote:   > Sort of legit. The Samsung is a wireless receiver. It is common to > charge a rental fee for equipment, especially if it is a premium > featured unit.   Wireless receiver? Hmmmmm... I'm not sure what it would do.   They have a coax coming into the apartment living room, which goes to a modem and a router which they own.   There is apparently a TV with this Samsung SX022ANM on the TV, where this Samsung "thing" is the only hardware they say that Comcast gave them.   I don't know cable (I'm on WISP) but I think they need some type of "TV box", is that right?   If they need a TV box, and if that's the only thing they need from Comcast, I'm going to "guess" (yes, I'm just guessing so I could easily be wrong) that it's this "tv box" that is required.   But I'm just guessing about that hardware, which is why I asked here.   > Not sure about the broadcast fee, it may be for local channels.   I found out more about the broadcast fees. https://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/2016/10/comcast-accused-of-falsely-promising-low-prices-hiding-bogus-fees/   They are a scam but there's nothing we can do about it. If the lawsuit against Comcast wins, it's probably class action so, that means any one individual gets like twenty five cents or nothing. > etc. While legal to charge, IMO it is like going to the store and > getting a package of icecream. At the checkout they charge you $3 for > the icecream and they add a 20 cent "refrigeration fee".   After reading that article, I must agree with you completely!   > If you look at your phone or electric bills you see a long list of > little charges. Cable companies do that too so they can advertise a low > price and then add in the other items.   I think the "little charges" on the phone or electric bill are "real fees" though, although my propane bill has a "hazmat fee" which is probably a fake fee like the Comcast fake fee.   > I argued with DirecTv about the sports fee and I don't watch sports. > They would not remove it but they did give me a discount.   I told them to argue with Comcast about the fake fees, but, I can't imagine Comcast caring.   At the moment, I'm mostly just left confused what this Samsung SXO22ANM is.

Martim Ribeiro <MartimXRibeiro@meo.pt>: Feb 05 02:18AM On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 18:58:06 -0500, in alt.home.repair,alt.interenet.wireless,sci.electronics.repair Frank wrote:   > On 2/4/2017 6:46 PM, Martim Ribeiro wrote: >> Samsung SX022ANM   > Samsung is DVR box rental.   I can't dispute that the Samsung SX022ANM is a "DVR Box Rental" because I can't figure out what it is by talking to the kids over the phone. They said it connects to the TV, so, at the moment, I'm assuming it's a "digital cable box".   The odd thing is I can't find a user manual or even a good description of it, so, I think I'm working with bad data from the kids (they're in their early twenties, but they're still just kids).   > Comcast has an ng where you might ask about all.   Looking in my newsrc file, I see this one? alt.online-service.comcast

Martim Ribeiro <MartimXRibeiro@meo.pt>: Feb 05 02:18AM On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 18:56:35 -0500, in alt.home.repair Bill wrote:   > Surely the Samsung fee is the rental for the converter box.   Thank you for that input as I'm not familiar with "converter boxes" since wisp doesn't have them (we have rooftop antennas).   Is this "cable converter" box a requirement?   > As far as the legitimacy of the fees, I guess they are part of the > contract, which has probably been approved by your municipality.   I found out more about the "Broadcast TV Fee" & "Regional Sports Fee", which this article says are bogus and which Comcast is being sued for at this very moment. https://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/2016/10/comcast-accused-of-falsely-promising-low-prices-hiding-bogus-fees/   > Personally, I grew to not like them as much, so I cancelled my Comcast > cable-tv, without replacment or regret. The 25 channels or so that I get > with a regular indoor antenna are plenty adequate. Hope that helps!   I called Comcast myself to figure out more and the sales person told me that the fees were government taxes that Comcast has nothing to do with (which turns out to be a lie but that's besides the point).   I couldn't get a straight answer from the Comcast guy about this reputed Samsung SX022ANM cable converter box. He started talking about a $4/month "digital cable box" and then extra for "HD" and "on demand" stuff, which I know nothing about (WISP doesn't have TV channels). He also talked about $10/month DVR boxes, which I don't think this is either.

Martim Ribeiro <MartimXRibeiro@meo.pt>: Feb 05 02:19AM On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 23:46:05 -0000 (UTC), in alt.home.repair,alt.interenet.wireless,sci.electronics.repair Martim Ribeiro wrote:     > On the TV channel setup, there are three things I don't understand: > 1. What is the Samsung SX022ANM "thing" > 2. Are these "fees" legit?   I made a typo mistake on the number of TV channels. It's 35 channels (not 135 channels).   So the service is 100Mbps down and 5Mbps up with 35 channels for $85/month plus those bogus fees of about 11 bucks plus taxes of about 15 bucks.   What I know now that I didn't know earlier are that the "fees" are bogus fees which Comcast is being sued for both hiding them from the customer at the time of sale (which seems to be the case here also) and for representing them as "government fees" (which they just did on the phone for me today).   So, the fees are pretty much figured out.   The only thing that is not figured out is what this Samsung SX022ANM is, but, I found out from the kids that it's on one girl's bedroom on top of her TV, so, it's probably this "digital cable box" that seems to be required in order to watch TV.   I'm pretty surprised that anything is required to watch TV, but I don't have TV with WISP so I'm not sure. But it seems to me that the TV should just have a tuner if it's a modern TV, so, why you need a tuner on top of a tuner makes no sense to me.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 04 11:03PM -0500 In article <o7622t$jpo$1@news.mixmin.net>, MartimXRibeiro@meo.pt says... > have TV with WISP so I'm not sure. But it seems to me that the TV should > just have a tuner if it's a modern TV, so, why you need a tuner on top of a > tuner makes no sense to me.   If you look on the back of the box you would find the modle numbers that match. I am not sure of your cable system, but most cable systems require atleast one digital box now to watch anything coming down the cable. As a way for the companies to stick it to the users they usually charge so much for each box that is hooked to a TV. Many charge a fee for the cable modem that is used for the internet, but you can buy your own and it pays for its self in about 6 months to a year. I think the FCC is trying or maybe they have by now where you can buy your own digital TV box now.

Martim Ribeiro <MartimXRibeiro@meo.pt>: Feb 05 04:25AM On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 23:03:09 -0500, in alt.home.repair,alt.interenet.wireless,sci.electronics.repair Ralph Mowery wrote:   > match. I am not sure of your cable system, but most cable systems > require atleast one digital box now to watch anything coming down the > cable.   That's what the Samsung sx022anm must be, which is the thing that attaches to the cable and then to the back of the TV. The original roommate must be renting it, even though it doesn't show up on her bill according to what she told the other roommate (who is the one I'm trying to help) who is moving in.   That other roommate is my own kid, where she had Comcast cable but no TV so it was a ton simpler (without any taxes or fees whatsoever!). We simply bought from Costco their best Docsys 3 modem (I think it was a Motorola modem as I recall but it was years ago) and a Netgear AC router (as I recall).   > As a way for the companies to stick it to the users they usually > charge so much for each box that is hooked to a TV.   These kids are in college so I don't think they need TV but it's there now in the new apartment, but it's useless to the second kid because she doesn't even own a TV.   Can she watch the TV signal on a computer? (Probably not.) (I'm not talking about a web site - I'm talking about the actual TV.)   I'm kind of out of touch with technology, but do TVs still exist?   All they are is a tuner and a monitor, where the tuner seems to be this Samsung sxo22anm thing, so, does all she need is a monitor?   > Many charge a fee > for the cable modem that is used for the internet, but you can buy your > own and it pays for its self in about 6 months to a year.   I don't remember the math, but I can't imagine NOT buying your own cable modem because you save everywhere. 1. The self-installation fee is something like ten bucks whereas if they give you a modem, the setup fee is something like fifty or sixty bucks so you save about forty or fifty bucks on day 1. 2. The monthly charge is about 10 bucks (plus tax) so you save that each month.   If the cable modem at Costco was one hundred bucks plus tax (it was something like that as I recall), then you save half that cost on the first day (see #1 and #2 above) and then you save the other half in ... gee ... you're right ... about five or six months!   Ooops. I should not have doubted your math. You're correct. If you buy your own Docsys 3 cable modem, then it only takes about six months to recoup your costs, and then you save 10 bucks a month (plus tax) from there on in.   > I think the FCC is trying or maybe they have by now where you can buy > your own digital TV box now.   If you had what you call a 'digital tv box" and a monitor, would it work? Or do you still need a TV tuner inside the monitor?

Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Feb 05 12:00AM -0500 On 2/4/2017 9:19 PM, Martim Ribeiro wrote:   > have TV with WISP so I'm not sure. But it seems to me that the TV should > just have a tuner if it's a modern TV, so, why you need a tuner on top of a > tuner makes no sense to me.   Cable box. http://www.justanswer.com/tv-repair/9hb56-remote-cable-box-stopped-working.html   Saw one on ebay sold for $79

Andrew Rossmann <andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net>: Feb 05 08:03AM -0600 In article <FjylA.156388$xZ1.135447@fx35.iad>, esp@snet.net says...   > Cable box. > http://www.justanswer.com/tv-repair/9hb56-remote-cable-box-stopped-working.html   > Saw one on ebay sold for $79   Don't try to buy one and use it with Comcast, or most any cable system. The only non-rental equipment they will allow are devices that use CableCard. And for Comcast, they still charge the $9.95 outlet fee, but also give a -$2.50 device discount. (The new Roku Xfinity TV app will probably have this fee once it gets out of Beta testing.)   -- If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying! All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law!! http://home.comcast.net/~andyross

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Feb 05 04:39AM -0800 > Though I might be forced as my old XP and Vista (yuk) will eventually > quit. If you see me buying a new version of Windows please shoot me, I > mean it.   If your Iphone, Samsung, etc... is regularly plugged in and out of the tower's jack, I don't see why your 2007 version (or better) of Windows would ever crash. I've heard that the new Windows 10 has made big changes, especially on the graphics and PC gaming side.

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Feb 05 05:47AM -0800 > there are except for idle speed. Later one fire the injectors > in pairs or possibly single at a time in which case you need a > cam pulse to know what cylinder you're on.   These days its tough to tell what microprocessing helps do that. I'm not familiar with anything except bullshitting around on a few construction/remodeling sites. I don't know crap regarding auto and diesel, but I've heard of everything from two-strokes to 'v' and inline sixes on 18-wheelers. The new Ford Mustang is switching from a v6 to a v8. Some military combat vehicles have 10 and 12 cylinders. I guess its regarding the right torque, kinetic energy and inertia at the right time somewhere along the drive chain.

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