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"Newgene McMensa" <newgene.mcmensaREMOVE@gREMOVEmail.com>: Feb 05 08:51PM -0800 Toshiba LCD TV Model 22C1004, made in Nov 2010.   This has been a great TV, with lots of extra features that other small TV's don't have. All of a sudden, channel 2.1 and 2.2 are not coming in. The signal strength indicator does even register. All other channels are fine.   First thing I did was to unplug it, reset it and the scan all the channels. All channels came back except 2.1 and 2.2.   I have a rooftop antenna with the lead going to a splitter and then to this TV and another one. Next thing I did was to swap the cable connections at each TV. So the connections and cables are eliminated as problems   Any ideas what could cause this, or hot to troubleshoot it?

"Newgene McMensa" <newgene.mcmensaREMOVE@gREMOVEmail.com>: Feb 05 08:55PM -0800 Typos corrected...   Toshiba LCD TV Model 22C1004, made in Nov 2010.   This has been a great TV, with lots of extra features that other small TV's don't have. All of a sudden, channel 2.1 and 2.2 are not coming in. The signal strength indicator does not even register. All other channels are fine.   First thing I did was to unplug it, reset it and the scan all the channels. All channels came back except 2.1 and 2.2.   I have a rooftop antenna with the lead going to a splitter and then to this TV and another one. Next thing I did was to swap the cable connections at each TV. Toshiba still no 2.1 or 2.2. Other TV show both fine. So the connections and cables are eliminated as problems   Any ideas what could cause this, or hot to troubleshoot it?

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Feb 05 08:45PM -0800 > ."The problem is that anything to do with the emission control system has to > be certified to not alter the emissions of the car. ...   > Many 30 year old cars had computers. They were basic, just controlled fuel mixture and ignition timing.   I've got a computer in a car that old, and it's NOT basic, there's a bunch of solenoid drivers for vacuum control valves... or thermactors, or somesuch.   The microprocessor is of the MCS-96 family, the whole line of which was obsoleted by Intel a decade ago.

Peter Easthope <petereasthope@gmail.com>: Feb 05 09:58AM -0800 Thanks for the replies.   Dan wrote, > Change the battery. Replaced the CR2032 cell with one fresh out of the package. No change in BIOS behaviour. Date and time still not changeable.   Adrian wrote, > Check the onscreen instructions carefully ...   Photo of the screen here. http://easthope.ca/IntelD850GBClockSetting.jpg Tried +/-, Page Up/Page Down. Keyboard works otherwise.   Bender wrote,   > IIRC: it was a Dallas RTC chip (which may have been more or less compatible > with the original Motorola chipset RTC). That had a couple of lithium coin > cells stuck on top and potted.   Photo of the lower left part of the board here. http://easthope.ca/IntelD850GBboard.jpg As clear possible with this camera and without losing image size. I recognize only the one lithium cell.   Retrieved the Intel BIOS updater and updated. The latest version available is the same as the extant version. No problem reported in the update process.   Booting stops with these being the last three lines on the screen. CMOS Date/Time Not Set Press F1 to Run SETUP Network selected as first boot device for current boot   There is no 8P8C connector on the system board and no Ethernet adapter installed. Nothing about network in the boot area of the BIOS configuration. The BIOS identifies the WDC drive with a bootable system as "WDC WD1200JB-00DUA3" but won't boot from it.   None of the capacitors are bulged. With the capacitors installed, no leaking electrolyte visible. Replacing capacitors seems a poor investment for an uncertain return.   Any further thoughts before scrapping the board?   Thanks, ... Peter E.

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Feb 05 10:27AM -0800 Peter Easthope wrote: > investment for an uncertain return.   > Any further thoughts before scrapping the board?   > Thanks, ... Peter E.   Hi Peter,   Are there two pins on the motherboard that you can temporarily short that will clear the CMOS settings? -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 05 07:06PM "Peter Easthope" <petereasthope@gmail.com> wrote in message news:65d3e9df-f413-41e3-bdb2-c26531ffd827@googlegroups.com... >> Change the battery.   > Replaced the CR2032 cell with one fresh out of the package. No change > in BIOS behaviour. Date and time still not changeable.   What OS? - most I've seen have time and date icon on the taskbar, have you tried setting it there?

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Feb 05 10:25PM +0100 Something gross !!   Are you sure that during BIOS setting, your keyboard is Numlock ?     Peter Easthope a écrit :

Peter Easthope <petereasthope@gmail.com>: Feb 05 07:38PM -0800 David wrote, > Are there two pins on the motherboard that you can temporarily short that > will clear the CMOS settings?   There is a pin set J8C2; described here. http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/boards-and-kits/desktop-boards/000005690.html With the jumper on 2-3, a maintenance menu added in the BIOS configuration allows passwords to be cleared. No evidence of any password set but I cleared all. After that put the jumper back to the normal 1-2 position and booted again.   Still could not adjust the clock but the "Save changes and proceed" option worked and the system booted. Not sure that clearing the passwords made a difference. I could have just failed to recognize how to pass the clock problem earlier.   Bender wrote, > What OS? - most I've seen have time and date icon on the taskbar, have you > tried setting it there?   Debian and antiX. Now that I see how to start the OS, will try to set the clock there.   Look165 wrote, > ... Numlock ?   Numlock is ok.   Will return to this machine February 13 or later. Appears promising now.   Thanks for the help, ... Peter E.

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 05 07:14PM <oldschool@tubes.com> wrote in message news:52tc9c5c5kjmkfbnaiq15r5s3ig245r78j@4ax.com... >>advantages. That's how things go.   > I know the dry 'lytics were better, I have to ask what came before these > wet ones with the vent hole? I really dont know...   When I was a kid, I liked taking old radios to bits. A mains reservoir electrolytic I "autopsied" had a centre electrode that was sort of like a curvy column (for maximum surface area) up the middle, the can was the other electrode, it was completely filled with electrolyte. Another old radio had a compartment under the one that housed the chassis, it contained a huge slab flat wound paper capacitor - it must've weighed at least 7lb.

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 05 07:18PM "Jim Mueller" <wrongname@nospam.com> wrote in message news:58967016$0$54323$c3e8da3$12bcf670@news.astraweb.com... > all the capacitors actually means all the electrolytic and paper > capacitors. Usually ceramic and mica capacitors are still good and > nobody replaces those unless they are proven to be bad.   That's not far different to what I said - certain types of cap you learn from experience should be regarded as suspect. More reliable types can deteriorate if they're close to the heat from power tubes. Anything that can affect RF/IF tuning shouldn't be disturbed unless you know its faulty.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 05 01:31PM -0600 On 2/5/2017 9:36 AM, Nick Danger wrote:   > Started with a Model 15 KSR, then a Model 32 ASR and finally a Model 28 > KSR -- with a home brew digital/electronic replacement for the paper > tape. Today it's all pixels.   Lorenz Lo-15c <http://old.fernschreibamt-hausneindorf.de/assets/images/Arbeitsplart_Lo15c.jpg>   I started with a Teletype Model 15 in 1972, then a Model 19 in 1974. Then got my grubby little hooks into a Model 32. I acquired the Lorenz in 2007. It used to be in the German Consulate in Los Angeles.   For the terminal units, I started with a used homebrew with the classic 88 mH toroids. Then graduated to the HAL ST-6000, then the ST-8000 and currently the ST-8000A.   I'm waiting for the last of the PK-232 boxes to finally die. Because 200 Hz shift is NOT equal to 170 Hz shift. Regardless of what their manual says.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

Nick Danger <nick@third.eye.net>: Feb 05 03:29PM -0500 >> Started with a Model 15 KSR, then a Model 32 ASR and finally a Model 28 >> KSR -- with a home brew digital/electronic replacement for the paper >> tape. Today it's all pixels.   On 2/5/2017 2:31 PM, Foxs Mercantile wrote:   > Lorenz Lo-15c > <http://old.fernschreibamt-hausneindorf.de/assets/images/Arbeitsplart_Lo15c.jpg>   quite impressive!     > For the terminal units, I started with a used homebrew with the > classic 88 mH toroids. Then graduated to the HAL ST-6000, then the > ST-8000 and currently the ST-8000A.   Wow! Big bucks. HAL made nice equipment -- that I couldn't afford. I had a W6FFC (Irv Hoff?) ST-6 TU kit, a 3" home brew solid state scope from 73 magazine for a tuning indicator and a W6FFC AFSK unit (for 2 meter RTTY) all built into a Drake 4-line cabinet to match my Drake 4B line, Heathkit scope bezel, CRT, mu metal shield and Heath knobs. Was a avionics guy in the Air National Guard at the time and was able to use the Airframe sheet metal shop to create the chassis and front panel.   > I'm waiting for the last of the PK-232 boxes to finally die. Because > 200 Hz shift is NOT equal to 170 Hz shift. Regardless of what their > manual says.   A PK-232 you say? I used a KAM+ that allowed you to very easily change speeds (and maybe shifts) on the fly on RTTY. As a matter of fact, that's how I worked the guy from [Russian] Georgia who was operating in NORTH Korea on rtty. Everybody was calling him using the US 60 wpm speed, but I was able to realize he was using the European speed (forgot what that was), but changed it on the fly, worked him and got the North Korea QSL to prove it.   73

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 05 04:17PM -0500 In article <o781rk$ob3$1@dont-email.me>, nick@third.eye.net says... > Heathkit scope bezel, CRT, mu metal shield and Heath knobs. Was a > avionics guy in the Air National Guard at the time and was able to use > the Airframe sheet metal shop to create the chassis and front panel.   YOu started withe the kit, I could not afford that in the 1980'S. Wired up a version of the st-6 from a schematic in Ham Radio and the matching tone generator from the RTTY Journal on a piece of pref board by hand. I did have a Heathkit counter to adjust the tones. Stuff looked like crap, but worked very well.   At that time there was about 20 local hams on the 220 FM band. I still dabble with receiving rtty on the Mod 19 from time to time.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 05 03:32PM -0600 On 2/5/2017 3:17 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote: > At that time there was about 20 local hams on the 220 FM band.   Heh, I hung out on 145.85 MHz on AM AFSK.   > I still dabble with receiving rtty on the Mod 19 from time to time.   That's a pretty big chunk of "e-waste" let me know when you need to "properly" dispose of it. ;-)       -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 05 03:42PM -0600 On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 19:54:04 -0600, Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >> around here).   >I get mine from here: ><http://www.tuberadios.com/capacitors/>   Although they did not list the shipping cost, the cost of the caps is quite reasonable, and they do have a fairly good selection. What I am not seeing is any brand name. Who makes them? Are they US made?   If the shipping is reasonable, I'd likely order from them based on your referral, but it would be nice to know a little more about them.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 05 03:53PM -0600 On Sun, 5 Feb 2017 19:14:06 -0000, "Benderthe.evilrobot" >electrode, it was completely filled with electrolyte. Another old radio had >a compartment under the one that housed the chassis, it contained a huge >slab flat wound paper capacitor - it must've weighed at least 7lb.   That sort of thing I never encountered. That must have been REALLY old! Most of the stuff I worked on, was mid 40s thru 60s. I had a few of those old wooden radios that stood about 40" tall and had a round top. Those were some of the harder ones I tried to work on, and the tubes were unusual. I know those were the ones that had those wet caps with the top vent hole. I also recall that the speaker magnet was an electro-magnet and was also used as a choke for the power supply. Those were some of the oldest things I worked on.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 05 01:58PM -0800 >with morons or off topic political based fighting and name calling these >days. There were many worthwhile newsgroups that I used to enjoy, and I >wont even go there anymore.   The surest sign of success is abuse and pollution. Usenet is obviously successful.   I wrote this rant on Usenet "personalities" maybe 20 years ago when observed the same problems you've mentioned: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/genesis.txt>   >I cant understand where everyone went.   Probably Reddit: <https://www.reddit.com/r/VintageRadios/> <https://www.reddit.com/r/vintageaudio/> <https://www.reddit.com/r/audiorepair/>   >I know almost everyon has an >account with that miserable facebook these days (except me), but I cant >say I have ever seen any useful discussions on FB.   I have a Facebook account and I'm not afraid to use it. Mostly, I hang round two local groups that deal with the usual neighborhood problems. It works fairly well, and much better than the old bulletin board outside the post office or market. It might work better if I take the time to learn how to navigate the Facebook maze.   >dialup, because that's all there is in this rural area where I live, and >bloated websites like FB and most of the news media sites wont even load >anymore).   Check into alternatives to cable and telco internet. There are plenty of WISP's (wireless internet service providers). <http://www.wispa.org/Directories/Find-a-WISP> Maybe share a wireless backhaul connection with the neighbors. I setup a few such systems using various backhauls (including satellite). They were slow and clumsy, but sufficient as the alternative would have been dialup or no internet.   Also, you can really cut down on the traffic by using the mobile URL's instead of the usual URL. Try it: <https://m.facebook.com> <https://m.google.com> etc... You may need to install a browser addon that fakes the user agent string, so that the web pile thinks you're using a smartphone. <http://www.howtogeek.com/113439/how-to-change-your-browsers-user-agent-without-installing-any-extensions/> For example: <https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/user-agent-switcher/> There are others. There are also browser tweaks for dialup: <http://lifehacker.com/140120/geek-to-live--how-to-survive-a-slow-internet-connection> Or, you can switch to a text based browser. <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Text-based_web_browser> However, I'm not sure it will work with Facebook.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 05 04:47PM -0600 On Sun, 05 Feb 2017 13:58:00 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   ><https://www.reddit.com/r/VintageRadios/> ><https://www.reddit.com/r/vintageaudio/> ><https://www.reddit.com/r/audiorepair/>   I'll have to look at those. I personally hate web based forums, but that is mostly bcause on dialup, it takes too long to load the pages. I used to go ro some of those Yahoo Groups, years ago, but even them have been taken over by spam trolls and abuse.   >problems. It works fairly well, and much better than the old bulletin >board outside the post office or market. It might work better if I >take the time to learn how to navigate the Facebook maze.   Some people seem to like FB. I actually had an account for a very short time. After spending many hours trying to understand how to use it, (and it's not easy), I made a page for a small non-profit event that I run. It took less than one week for idiots to ruin it. Nothing posted to it had anything to do with the topic. It became a place for people to beg for money, call other people names, discuss politics, and post photos of themselves drunk. Since I could only work on it from the library or a local restaurant (using the WIFI), I finally turned the page over to another member of our group and said here is the group and the password, FIX THIS. After a week or so, they said that I had not made it limited enough, and it was beyond fixing. I told them to remove everyone from the "friends list" except the actual members of our organization. But even doing that did not seem to stop the abuse of the site (page). Out of extreme frustration, I deleted the whole thing, and said I would never touch FB again.   >Or, you can switch to a text based browser. ><https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Text-based_web_browser> >However, I'm not sure it will work with Facebook.   I am a lot more limited than you could imagine. My nearest neighbor is over a mile away. The nearest small town is 5 miles, the nearest large city is 55 miles. I can not get a reliable cell phone signal here. To make a call, I have to either drive up the hill, or (in warm weather), I may go up on the roof. Because of that, I MUST keep a landline (which also takes care of my dialup needs). There is no cable. The only way might be a satellite dish. And that would cost me at least $100 per month. I dont want the tv part of it. I dont watch much tv and I only watch ME-TV (oldies). My antenna on the 35 foot tower I made from pipe, works pretty well for tv, but only gets stations from one direction, since there's a hill on my other side.   I am going to check on some of these text based browsers and stuff like that though. At one time, I used a browser called "Off By One", which only displayed text and pics. But it will not work on any websites using HTTPS (secured), and many of them are using that now, even wikipedia.   Thanks

Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>: Feb 05 10:54PM On Sat, 04 Feb 2017 19:25:31 -0600, oldschool wrote:   > to work properly. Just made from better materials.   >>-- >>Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com No, polystyrene capacitors have LOWER maximum temperature capability than most other capacitors; that is one of their limitations. But they have very low leakage, last forever if not mistreated, and are cheap.   Tempco is shorthand for temperature coefficient. It describes how much the capacitance changes as temperature changes. Some capacitors change very little (for example C0G ceramics), others change a LOT (Z5U ceramics).         -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com   To get my real email address, replace wrongname with dadoheadman. Then replace nospam with fastmail. Lastly, replace com with us.

Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>: Feb 05 10:58PM On Sat, 04 Feb 2017 18:53:53 -0600, oldschool wrote:   > snip > I wonder why they dont make them both radial and axial? I'd think that > it's just a matter of rerouting the wires from the same innards.   No market. Everything now is built on PC boards and axial lead parts take up too much room. Some axial lead parts are getting hard to get.   -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com   To get my real email address, replace wrongname with dadoheadman. Then replace nospam with fastmail. Lastly, replace com with us.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 05 07:18PM -0800 >I am a lot more limited than you could imagine.   Agreed. You've given up before you've even started looking for a solution. We have about 5 small and one large wireless ISP's in my area that provide reliable service for your situation.   >My nearest neighbor is over a mile away.   Duz this neighbor have high speed internet? If so, a point to point wireless link will get you internet.   >The nearest small town is 5 miles,   Can you "see" this small town from your rooftop? From a nearby hilltop on your property? From the top of a tree or tower? If it has high speed internet, as seems to be the case since the local coffee shop does have it, you can establish a similar point to point wireless link, or find a WISP to do it for you.   >the nearest large city is 55 miles.   That's a bit too far.   >I can not get a reliable cell phone signal here.   I live in a hilly area with lots of tall trees. Cellular coverage is spotty in many places. So, I arrange to have someone install either a nanocellular base station from the cellular provider, or a yagi antenna on the roof pointed at the nearest cell site. (I gave up tower and rooftop climbing about 15 years ago).   >There is no cable.   I've been mildly involved in several neighborhood campaigns to "convince" the incumbent service provider to provide internet. If they want a franchise from the city or county, they'll have to provide service extension for those that are willing to pay for it. For example: <http://sccounty01.co.santa-cruz.ca.us/BDS/Govstream2/Bdsvdata/non_legacy_2.0/agendas/2007/20070626-386/PDF/068.pdf> Get your neighborhood organized and be prepared to make some noises when your local cable franchise is scheduled for renewal.   >The only way might be a satellite dish.   Only way? You're ignoring almost everything I previously suggested. I suggest you do some research into wireless internet before declaring your situation as hopeless. If you're lost, the email address in the signature works. If you're desperate, so does the phone number. I just hate to see anyone suffer with only dialup.   >And that would cost me at least $100 per month.   <http://www.exede.com> $70/month after the teaser rate expires. No TV required. You can possibly dump your phone service and switch to VoIP or use their phone offering. You can get a similar prices from: <https://www.hughesnet.com> You'll need to buy satellite equipment and have an authorized installer do the dish installation. Not sure of the prices.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Feb 05 01:34PM -0800 On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 at 11:38:54 AM UTC-8, Jon Elson wrote: > isw wrote:   [about aluminum house wiring]     > If the wrong wire terminal combination is installed, then your house WILL > burn down, guaranteed! If you use the right CO/ALR fittings EVERYWHERE, > then over time you will STILL develop poor connections.   Covering the aluminum leads with anti-corrosive material (noalox) before attaching to copper or brass terminals helps.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 05 06:00PM No schematic seemingly available, anyone know if circuit similar to anything else? Owner no longer remembers what the problem was. Protect LED goes from red to green and blue power LED comes on. Cold testing the top layer of bipolar output devices seems ok. Says "professional" on the front but 1/3W resistors thrown in "6 transistor" radio fashion. One base resistor lead is broken, presumably from vibrational resonance fracture of the thin 1/3W wire, but that would not be the problem

Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Feb 05 08:59AM -0800 On Sun, 5 Feb 2017 02:18:48 -0000 (UTC), Martim Ribeiro   >The odd thing is I can't find a user manual or even a good description of >it, so, I think I'm working with bad data from the kids (they're in their >early twenties, but they're still just kids).   "Slingbox" ?   <https://community.slingbox.com/thread/44882>

Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Feb 05 05:24PM On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 23:46:05 -0000 (UTC), Martim Ribeiro wrote: > I'm confused by Comcast Comcast "Broadcast TV Fee" of $6.50 and the > "Regional Sports Fee" of $4.50 and the Samsung SX022ANM "thing".   Then you ought to post you questions in a ng that's On Topic.   alt.online-service.comcast

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