sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

tlvp <mPiOsUcB.EtLlLvEp@att.net>: Feb 18 01:47PM -0500 On Fri, 17 Feb 2017 17:21:15 -0500, nospam wrote:   > they also refarmed their network so that aws is not required anymore.   Smoking some good stuff, eh? Clue: Amazon Web Services was never required.   Cheers, -- tlvp -- Avant de repondre, jeter la poubelle, SVP.

nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid>: Feb 18 01:53PM -0500 In article <flzlm4pfb3is$.10u4v64wxkd0y.dlg@40tude.net>, tlvp   > > they also refarmed their network so that aws is not required anymore.   > Smoking some good stuff, eh? Clue: Amazon Web Services was never required.   clue: don't comment about things you don't understand.   clue#2: don't smoke whatever it is you're smoking.

tlvp <mPiOsUcB.EtLlLvEp@att.net>: Feb 18 02:05PM -0500 On Sat, 18 Feb 2017 01:23:56 +0000 (UTC), Stijn De Jong wrote:   > Since none of us are gonna run our own tests with three phones in our hands > for weeks on end,   Right. No three phones, just two. And no tests "for weeks on end," just casual observations. T-Mo vs. VZW:   * Most places in NE I check signal, they're both present and adequate. * Some places I find T-Mo service utterly absent, but VZW strong enough to * use (in some of those, at&t is accessible, but won't allow T-Mo roaming). * Some places I was hoping to find VZW, that one's absent, but T-Mo is OK. * Still other places neither is usably present.   Others' experiences are almost sure to differ. Cheers, -- tlvp -- Avant de repondre, jeter la poubelle, SVP.

JF Mezei <jfmezei.spamnot@vaxination.ca>: Feb 18 02:08PM -0500 On 2017-02-17 23:36, tlvp wrote:   > A dual SIM phone, with both SIMs active, and using different carriers, not > only *can*, it *must* :-) . 'Zat help? Cheers, -- tlvp   In that scenario, you really have 2 phones and each attaches itself to only 1 antanna/radio.   Just because a phone can SEE signals from multiple antennas does not mean that it has concurrent active communication to multiple antennas.

The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Feb 18 01:09PM -0800 On 02/17/2017 04:01 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: >>the paid version is rarely significantly better than the free version.   > Oh well. It's rather difficult to build a company based on a free > product (unless one sells advertising).   Fine with me. Just how much can a person make from app-advertising?   > with the idea for several decades. Enjoy free while it lasts. I'm > thinking more of a Kickstarter, Indiegogo, or other crowdfunding > project.   And yet people do it...   -- Cheers, Bev "My dad used to say: Laugh, and the whole world laughs with you. Cry, and I'll give you something to cry about you little bastard." -Jeff Goldblum

nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid>: Feb 18 04:12PM -0500 In article <o8ad3c$8ru$1@dont-email.me>, The Real Bev   > > Oh well. It's rather difficult to build a company based on a free > > product (unless one sells advertising).   > Fine with me. Just how much can a person make from app-advertising?   a lot.   <http://www.adweek.com/digital/googles-ad-revenue-hits-19-billion-even-m obile-continues-pose-challenges-172722/> During the second quarter of 2016, Alphabet's revenue hit $21.5 billion, a 21 percent year-over-year increase. Of that revenue, $19.1 billion came from Google's advertising business, up from $16 billion a year ago.

Stijn De Jong <stijndekonlng@nlnet.nl>: Feb 18 09:14PM On Fri, 17 Feb 2017 17:12:20 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > about 60 degrees. The tower can and does indicate which sector is > being used, but that has a granularity of 120 degrees, which is hardly > accurate enough to determine anyones position.   Hi Jeff,   This article describes the three 120-degree sectors: Alpha is the North FACING vertical antenna on the cell tower Beta is the Southeast FACING vertical antenna on the cell tower Gamma is the Southwest FACING vertical antenna on the cell tower http://www.evdoforums.com/thread15374.html   There is a way to tell which sector antenna you're connected to from the cell id. Also, the newer Android APIs now seem to expose the frequency bands: http://people.csail.mit.edu/bkph/cellular_repeater_inside.shtml

Stijn De Jong <stijndekonlng@nlnet.nl>: Feb 18 09:14PM On Sat, 18 Feb 2017 14:20:39 -0000 (UTC), Lewis wrote:   >> Here is a photo of one type in my house, called "CellSpot" and "LTE": >> http://i.cubeupload.com/uNXXgZ.jpg   > that's the only LTE CellSpot I've seen. It has blinkenlights.   Thanks for confirming which one, because there is an entire thread on the various very different "things" that T-Mobile MARKETING calls a "Personal CellSpot" which they also call a "4G LTE CellSpot" such that saying those words is rendered meaningless.   If someone says they have a CellSpot, or a "Personal CellSpot", all they're definitively saying is that they have a micro tower, but there are multiple types of similarly branded micro towers, each of which is quite different in operation.   1. One type is a signal booster, which is purely cellular. 2. Another type is a microtower connected to your Internet router. 3. A third type is a router (I have not tested this type yet). 4. A fourth type is an access point (I haven't tested this either, yet). 5. And, while we're at it, there is WiFi calling (which isn't a "cellspot")   >> https://u.cubeupload.com/WoN2gQ.jpg   > Those are 4G LTE signal boosters which I've never seen before. They were > not on offer from T-Mobile when I asked about a CellSpot for my home.   Yes, but my point is that they also are branded by T-Mobile MARKETING as a "Personal CellSpot" and they all say "4G LTE".   The only difference in branding is in the final word *after* the meaningless "CellSpot" brand name (and in the case of the one you have, they don't even put a final word after the meaningless "CellSpot" brand name).       >> Are you getting that from your T-Mobile micro tower? >> How do you know? (Because that's the entire reason for this thread.)   > my iPhone displays the dB in the upper left corner. I's at -78 again.   I knew how you got the decibel RSSI (received signal strength indication), but the question was how do you know which "tower" you're getting your current signal from.   As far as anyone can tell, it's impossible to get the cell id tower from the phone on an iOS device, so you have to use an Android device to figure that out.   I have a similar setup to yours, except that I have at least three (and maybe more) towers for my phone to choose from (two of which are inside my own home).   So just having a decibel reading doesn't tell me *which* tower I'm connected to (since there are at least three or more to choose from).   The good news is that my decibel readings are now in the -50dBm to -60dBm range (instead of the minus 90 to minus 100 decibel range as they were before I hooked up the micro towers!).

nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid>: Feb 18 04:29PM -0500 In article <o8adfn$1c5u$5@gioia.aioe.org>, Stijn De Jong   > I knew how you got the decibel RSSI (received signal strength indication), > but the question was how do you know which "tower" you're getting your > current signal from.   based on what you've written, no, you did not know that.   > As far as anyone can tell, it's impossible to get the cell id tower from > the phone on an iOS device,   wrong.   > so you have to use an Android device to figure > that out.   maybe you do, but the rest of the world doesn't, assuming they even care what the tower id is.   everyone *other* than cellular engineers don't care, and the cellular engineers have *far* more sophisticated equipment to find out than by using an android or ios phone.

Stijn De Jong <stijndekonlng@nlnet.nl>: Feb 18 09:31PM On Fri, 17 Feb 2017 18:43:40 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > My GSM phones show a valid lat-long. My CDMA phones show no data.   Hi Jeff, I'm still trying to figure this stuff out, but I noticed this MIT app (CellTracker) "attempts" to show both what the GPS says and the latitude and longitude for Verizon. http://people.csail.mit.edu/bkph/images/Screenshot_2013-04-16-15-29-00   CellTracker: http://people.csail.mit.edu/bkph/CellTracker

Stijn De Jong <stijndekonlng@nlnet.nl>: Feb 18 09:31PM On Sat, 18 Feb 2017 03:23:29 +0100, Carlos E. R. wrote:     > That's not the signal.   > That's decoding the data on it, and reading it. Then finding via GPS the > exact location of the terminal, then calculating the direction of the tower.   This finding-where-the-tower is stuff is all new to me, but from what I've been reading, it's impossible to do on an iPhone, and, the directional pointer on OpenSignal is, at best, a wild-assed guess.   I'm still trying to figure all this out, but, it seems that OpenSignal is likely a phony app that simply uses your cellular connection to *guess* which cell tower you're connected to (based purely on your signal strength and carrier).   The actual location of the tower is well known to be wrong, since it's merely an average location of the *cell phones*!   Yup. They don't locate the tower. They simply average the location of the cellphone locations!   Says so here: "In OpenSignal ... the tower locations reported are not the actual antenna coordinates but the average of coordinates where cell phones were when they connected to that antenna" http://people.csail.mit.edu/bkph/cellular_repeater_inside.shtml   Here's a classic result of the OpenSignal inaccurate averaging algorithm: http://people.csail.mit.edu/bkph/images/20111130072559.png

Stijn De Jong <stijndekonlng@nlnet.nl>: Feb 18 09:35PM On Sat, 18 Feb 2017 14:22:35 -0000 (UTC), Lewis wrote:     > No no, orange juice isn't from oranges! First you have to peel the > orange, and then you have to squeeze it. It's not part of the orange!   > Whatever.   I had never used these apps before a couple of days ago, but now, after using a dozen of these cellular reporting apps, I'd assess OpenSignal to be almost non-functional compared to the apps that actually report correct information.   As a "toy" app, OpenSignal is fine; but for correct and accurate information, OpenSignal appears to be a veritable bust.   Still, it's one of the only related apps that my iOS device can run, so, even a toy app such as OpenSignal appears to be (compared to, say, Network Cell Info Lite) is better than nothing I guess.

Stijn De Jong <stijndekonlng@nlnet.nl>: Feb 18 10:00PM The great news is that I've gotten my cellular signal up from around -100dBm to consistently better than -60dBm, which is an astoundingly astronomical improvement in signal strength!   For example, here is a reading, just now, of -53dBm on my cellphone: http://i.cubeupload.com/GEYEzS.jpg   From what I've read, cellular signal doesn't get much better than that.   However, there is so much data that each of these apps output that I'm still going through all the useful information to figure out exactly which device is doing what (since I have an old micro tower and a new femto tower in my house).

mogulah@hotmail.com: Feb 18 02:37PM -0800 On Saturday, February 18, 2017 at 9:24:29 AM UTC-5, Lewis wrote:   > > That's decoding the data on it, and reading it. Then finding via GPS the > > exact location of the terminal, then calculating the direction of the tower.   > No no, orange juice isn't from oranges!   Correct. Its from water, other molecules, elements and sunlight absorbed by the Orange Tree.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 18 03:44PM -0500 In article <d2f86a4c-134a-4190-842d-ff71fe58f1b6@googlegroups.com>, irdon13@gmail.com says...   > I was going to buy one of those cheap digital Oscilloscope kits off of eBay but was told to check with this group and ask if anyone has a old working used Analog Oscilloscope that they would donate to me so I could test the circuits I have been building . I really like tinkering and have learned a lot in the past 2 years and a Oscilloscope would be my next piece of test equipment , but a new one is out of range for me but a used working old unit would be great for learning on . If anyone could help me I would greatly appreciate it . I Am disabled and working with electronics has opened a door for me that otherwise would leave me bored and doing nothing . I do not care if it is scratched or dented up as long as it is working , if anyone could help me contact me by phone at 1-772-200-0712 (I do not open e-mails for fear of being hacked ) Thank you , Don Young ( looking forward to a reply and some help )   If you were close I would probably give you an old one, but the shipping for them is more than the scope is worth.   Go to the arrl.org web site and look for the hamfests near you. That is a big flea market for electronic gear. You might find a scope in your price range.   There are some units that connect by USB to a computer for about $ 60 that you may want to look at.

Don Young <irdon13@gmail.com>: Feb 18 12:30PM -0800 I was going to buy one of those cheap digital Oscilloscope kits off of eBay but was told to check with this group and ask if anyone has a old working used Analog Oscilloscope that they would donate to me so I could test the circuits I have been building . I really like tinkering and have learned a lot in the past 2 years and a Oscilloscope would be my next piece of test equipment , but a new one is out of range for me but a used working old unit would be great for learning on . If anyone could help me I would greatly appreciate it . I Am disabled and working with electronics has opened a door for me that otherwise would leave me bored and doing nothing . I do not care if it is scratched or dented up as long as it is working , if anyone could help me , contact me at "FAKE NEWS" on You Tube (I do not open e-mails for fear of being hacked ) Thank you , Don Young ( looking forward to a reply and some help )

sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Feb 18 03:38PM -0500 > me at "FAKE NEWS" on You Tube (I do not open e-mails for fear of being > hacked ) Thank you , Don Young ( looking forward to a reply and some > help )   I hope this isn't too controversial. :)   I would recommend you get a guaranteed working Tek analog scope on eBay, probably $100, $150 at most. The newer the better, but if it is working when you get it, it will probably serve you long enough to satisfy your needs.   DSOs are great once you have some familiarity with what to expect, but can be very deceiving if you don't.   -- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html   Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

Don Young <irdon13@gmail.com>: Feb 18 12:16PM -0800 I was going to buy one of those cheap digital Oscilloscope kits off of eBay but was told to check with this group and ask if anyone has a old working used Analog Oscilloscope that they would donate to me so I could test the circuits I have been building . I really like tinkering and have learned a lot in the past 2 years and a Oscilloscope would be my next piece of test equipment , but a new one is out of range for me but a used working old unit would be great for learning on . If anyone could help me I would greatly appreciate it . I Am disabled and working with electronics has opened a door for me that otherwise would leave me bored and doing nothing . I do not care if it is scratched or dented up as long as it is working , if anyone could help me contact me by phone at 1-772-200-0712 (I do not open e-mails for fear of being hacked ) Thank you , Don Young ( looking forward to a reply and some help )

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Feb 18 09:18AM -0800 > ugly words "made in China" on them.....   > Ah Hell, I'll replace them, but I know they wont go in the trash. Maybe > there is some form of art that can be made from them....   What hard core old radio restorers do is remove the guts of old caps, insert a new one, then melt beeswax on the ends to seal them in. They then look like originals...   Of course it would be a REAL good idea to put a sticker inside the device saying what was done in case someone runs into it in twenty years and figures the thing was never recapped and rips out all the carefully restored caps...   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 18 05:45PM In article <lKydnb5ul89DHDXFnZ2dnUU7-dmdnZ2d@giganews.com>, spam@flippers.com says... > device saying what was done in case someone runs into it in twenty years > and figures the thing was never recapped and rips out all the carefully > restored caps...   Spoilsport!   Mike.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 18 12:58PM -0600 On Sat, 18 Feb 2017 09:18:23 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:     >What hard core old radio restorers do is remove the guts of old caps, >insert a new one, then melt beeswax on the ends to seal them in. They >then look like originals...   That sounds like a lot of work, and I doubt I will do it. However, how would someone remove the guts from an old cap like that? The only thing I can think of would be to use a drill press, (at a very low speed). But maybe there is a better way.   >and figures the thing was never recapped and rips out all the carefully >restored caps...   >John :-#)#   Yea, that is probably a good idea....   --   One other thing, does anyone know if there is a place that sells the pointers for test gear? I bet there is a need. That old plastic seems to have failed, and mine is broke off. I'll buy a replacement if they are available and not too costly. Otherwise I guess I'll have to make one from plexiglass.... (And somehow paint a line on it).

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 18 01:14PM -0600 > However, how would someone remove the guts from an old cap > like that?   Hot air gun. Heat it up until the wax runs, hold the tube and pull the guts out by the lead.   > Otherwise I guess I'll have to make > one from plexiglass.... (And somehow paint a line on it).   Scribe a line on the back side. Use Testor's black model paint. wipe up excess.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 18 12:49PM -0600 On Sat, 18 Feb 2017 10:33:47 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"   >> BAMA has it in djvu format.   > Sadly, it is the same scan and resolution as the PDF file. It is >typical of the quality of what Eico supplied with their kits   So you looked and saw the same thing. Thank You. It seems that from what you said, the original was a lousy print job, and I'm sure scanning it just made it worse. A few of them numbers look like nothing but an ink blob. Those numbers should have been larger right from the start. There is plenty of white space to have made them larger.   Fortunately there are only 12 caps and 9 resistors. (The other part numbers are not important and are obvious). The good thing is that it seems that C3 is near C4, near C5 etc. I'm just redoing the (GIF version) of the schematic using my paint software, and putting in bigger numbers. When I finish, I will have a better schematic. And I am checking each one against the actual circuit.   For those of you who work on a lot of this tube equipment, does it seem that 140V B+ is low? It does to me, with 450V AC coming from the power transformer, but it's been many years since I worked on this stuff. The 'lytic cap is not shorted according to my VOM. I checked that before I plugged it in. I will have to check the tubes too, but I dont have any tube tester yet. (I have one somewhere). [whatever happened to the good ol' drug store testers] :)   At least there has not been any smoke!!!   I'll have to order all new caps as soon as I confirm the numbers are correct. Just curious, what would you use for that filter cap "lytic? The schematic says 16mf or over (weird). I'm thinking 20 to 30.... (I cant read the original, since it's numbers are not visible, and it's in a spot making it hard to rotate without removal.   Either way, it feels good getting into a tube device again.....

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 18 01:10PM -0600 > Just curious, what would you use for that filter cap "lytic? > The schematic says 16mf or over (weird).   A 22 uF will work just fine.   -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Feb 18 10:31AM -0800 Allodaxaphobia wrote:   > CITE !   La Nación Apr 21, 2011 - "0.3% of Saharan Sun Enough To Power Europe" más que noticia es una cita histórica que data del año 2008. -- http://blogs.lanacion.com.ar/ecologico/econoticias/un-dia-para-pensar-en-el-planeta/

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.