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etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 03 09:40AM -0700 The EPROMs in one of my machines are at least 32 years old. Reading online about EPROMs it seems that maybe my old devices are nearing the end of the life of the memory contents. So I'm thinking I should copy or have copied the data in these old devices. Am I right? Thanks, Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 02 12:28PM -0700 On Sat, 1 Apr 2017 15:15:19 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:     >Not all programmers can read the early parts - 1702A, 2716, or 2532 so >do check the number on the EPROM before investing in the wrong burner!   >John :-#)# The EPROMs are the 2716 so I had better check. Thanks, Eric

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Apr 02 10:29PM -0700 > The EPROMs are the 2716 so I had better check. > Thanks, > Eric   Keep your eyes out for a UV EPROM eraser. If you're ever gonna do anything with those bits you saved, you're gonna need one.

etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 03 09:10AM -0700 >Keep your eyes out for a UV EPROM eraser. >If you're ever gonna do anything with those bits you saved, >you're gonna need one. I don't suppose a UV LED would work, would it? Or what about leaving the EPROM in direcr sunlight for several hours? Thanks, Eric

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 02 03:59PM -0700 > What Phil does not understand is how label requirements work in the US. If the motor is labeled "40W", then the maximum free turning running (not starting) load should not exceed 40W, full stop. That part will have a UR label and manufacturers use the nameplate rating to calculate, in turn the entire draw of the appliance for its label. Imagine if any random part might pull a constant 2.2 x its rating on a whim?   > If it is pulling 100 watts,   ** WRONG!!     > and if it is vibrating,   ** Completely normal.   The Wieck fuckwit has never seen a modern washing machine pump.   Or even read my post that explains it all. What a nasty old shithead.     ..... Phil

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 03 04:17AM -0700 Off your meds, again?   I have seen several dozen, as it happens. This is a dishwasher. A properly installed pump dishwasher pump will barely vibrate. Your explanations are not much short of idiotic, but are certainly dead-wrong.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>: Apr 02 02:30PM -0500 The reference design for that chip shows a 0.27 ohm/1W resistor. Select a low inductance type such as a carbon composition resistor here... definitely not a wirewound type.   http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/803743/SANKEN/STR-W6000S.html   Cheers, Dave M

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 02 01:55PM -0700 On Sunday, April 2, 2017 at 3:30:43 PM UTC-4, Dave M wrote: > >> application circuits there have no value marked on the resistors. > >> can anyone give a typical value or how to figure out this value?   > > Thanks l have changed the ic and try that value too   You definitely should spec a low inductance type for the source resistor at these freq, but even certain carbon comps are supposedly trimmed in a spiral pattern making them inductive..   There are non inductive types available but they're tough to find. Still, I'd try any resistor before a wirewound in this app.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 02 04:32PM -0700 Dave M wrote:   > The reference design for that chip shows a 0.27 ohm/1W resistor. Select a > low inductance type such as a carbon composition resistor here... definitely > not a wirewound type.   ** Good advice, but where do you get carbon composition resistors in that value? The IC will operate fine with readily available metal film types.   And beware, there are some wire wound types that look *exactly* like metal film ones.   I was fooled by this once and the PSU would not start up normally.     .... Phil

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Apr 02 12:59PM -0400

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Apr 02 09:17PM +0100 > I have one myself, just got it recently. Very late and outdated post and I doubt I'll get any response,   There are many many searchable things in google called "Laser Lite Show"   Can you be a bit more specific?   A make AND model number, a link to a photo, etc...   Also advice....   "do not look into laser with remaining eye"   Seriously, you need to read the manual before you go blinding someone.   You/We don't know what power the laser is.   -- Adrian C

John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com>: Apr 02 10:15AM -0700 On Sun, 2 Apr 2017 09:05:44 +1000, Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net> wrote:     >Did I ever tell you that you're a wonderful explainer?   >I wish I had a reason to learn photonics so I could justify spending >some neurons to read your book..   I MEGO on a lot of the optics in Phil's book (entendues and such) but the photon budget stuff is comprehensible, and there's some really good stuff about electronic design.   It's roughly half electronics, which makes sense since the world is half electronics.     --   John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc   lunatic fringe electronics

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Apr 02 06:33PM +0100 In article <ekc0seFaqjqU1@mid.individual.net>, usenet@andyburns.uk says... > > old employer, a computer manufacturer once upon a time...   > > https://www.dropbox.com/s/pagmxe035pv4fno/1900%20SERIES.mht?dl=0   > Looks like a load of old balls to me.   Yes, if you know about the theorem about combing a hairy ball the whole thing seems less convincing!   Mike.

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Apr 02 10:02AM -0700 David Farber wrote: > see if the circuit still works. You have to believe that somehow the > system worked for many years until something changed.   > Thanks for your reply.   I received the new capacitors and installed them. Then I removed the 100k resistors to see what would happen. The voltage started rising again. I reinstalled the resistors and it's been running great for two days now.   Thanks again. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

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