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oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 04 09:13AM -0400 I know that Radio Shack has manuals for their products online, or at least they used to. I'm looking for a manual/schematic for an older Archer A/V mixer. Archer Model: 15-1263.   Radioshack.com dont seem to have any links ot their manuals. Where do they hide them?

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 04 07:32AM -0700 > Archer A/V mixer. Archer Model: 15-1263.   > Radioshack.com dont seem to have any links ot their manuals. Where do > they hide them?   http://www.manualsonline.com/brands/radio_shack   http://www.repeater-builder.com/radio-shack/radio-shack-index.html   https://archive.org/details/radioshackhardwaremanuals   All of the above took less than a minute to find. And there are dozens more. Typically, if you search on what you have, you will find what you need to support it. It just may not be where you expect it to be.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 04 07:34AM -0700 Oh, and of course:     http://www.fixya.com/support/t23778838-archer_15_1263_users_manual     Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Apr 03 12:59PM -0400 <etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message news:bbu4ectn0gt3r7s5dssb80fcstiiu8ngoh@4ax.com... > or have copied the data in these old devices. Am I right? > Thanks, > Eric   Definitely make a copy. Then program a second copy of the EPROMS and swap them in to confirm the copy. If the copies are good, erase and reprogram the originals and keep as a spare.   Also replace any memory backup batteries while you are there.   You will probably be dead before you need the copies.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 03 10:21AM -0700 On 2017/04/03 9:59 AM, tom wrote: > originals and keep as a spare.   > Also replace any memory backup batteries while you are there.   > You will probably be dead before you need the copies.   EPROMs are quite stable in my experience, however backing up and using the second set of EPROMs to run the product seems reasonable if a bit of overkill. Make a copy, archive it off-site and keep your burner in a safe place. I would simply use the originals until they gave me cause for doubt.   Also - do not erase the originals, simply reprogram (refresh) them after telling the programmer that the chips are not blank. EPROMs have a limited number of erase/burn cycles so why knock one cycle off? I do find that a number of originally good EPROMs (that had valid data) fail to reprogram after being erased.   I burn many classic EPROMs (2716s and up) and PROMs a month, so have some experience in this matter.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

"tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Apr 03 01:48PM -0400 "John Robertson" <spam@flippers.com> wrote in message news:beOdncdL8ssWGX_FnZ2dnUU7-XfNnZ2d@giganews.com... > experience in this matter.   > John :-#)#   > --   I would agree with you on that except there are some programmers that will not permit you to program an EPROM that is not erased and does not have the option.   So I was just keeping it generic. Also burning a second copy allows you to confirm a good copy from the originals. Plus most of them are cheap.

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Apr 03 11:20AM -0700 On 4/3/2017 10:21 AM, John Robertson wrote: > for doubt.   > Also - do not erase the originals, simply reprogram (refresh) them after > telling the programmer that the chips are not blank.   I'd like to hear the theory behind that. Are you saying that a failed bit is never zero? Is programming a zero to zero the equivalent of twice the program pulse width? Is that less stressful than an erase?   EPROMs have a > limited number of erase/burn cycles so why knock one cycle off? I do > find that a number of originally good EPROMs (that had valid data) fail > to reprogram after being erased.   If it's that close to failure, wouldn't you want to learn that now?   > I burn many classic EPROMs (2716s and up) and PROMs a month, so have > some experience in this matter.   > John :-#)#   I understand the desire to do whatever you can to keep old equipment working, but this is getting mighty close to, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 03 12:35PM -0700 On 2017/04/03 11:20 AM, mike wrote: >> find that a number of originally good EPROMs (that had valid data) fail >> to reprogram after being erased.   > If it's that close to failure, wouldn't you want to learn that now?   No, if the thing is working why bother? Erasing and reprogramming doesn't prove anything and your burner may not do as good a job as the factory's rather expensive EPROM burner - which was likely a DATA 1/O 29 series with Gang Pack or possibly the DATA I/O Gang Programmer model 120 (early 80s).   http://www.dataio.com/Company/About-Data-I-O/40th-Anniversary/1980s   In other words the erase and reprogram could result in a less reliable part than it was originally. I don't bother to refresh EPROMs, nor do I replace them until they fail. Seems pointless to me to do anything beyond double archiving the data.     > I understand the desire to do whatever you can to keep old equipment > working, > but this is getting mighty close to, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."   There is a awful lot to be said for "if it ain't broke, don't fix it.". I see many game boards and arcade games where the owner thought it was a good idea to replace things that were still working. This sometimes results in an unrepairable (too many mistakes = too many hours to repair) game as they have made too many mistakes.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 03 03:18PM -0700 On Mon, 3 Apr 2017 12:35:41 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:   >results in an unrepairable (too many mistakes = too many hours to >repair) game as they have made too many mistakes.   >John :-#)# Greetings John, I just went through three weeks of frustration fixing this machine tool. The control maker, FANUC, said the problem was most likely not any part of the control. The lathe maker, Miyano, who married the control with the lathe said the problem was not likely to be on the machine side. The guy I spoke with at Miyano said that the lathes hardly ever need major work because they are so well built. And he is correct. The machine is a great machine. So good in fact that it would be worth it to put a new control on the thing if the old control failed. The problem turned out to be a circuit board that interfaces with the lathe. I bought a used board and swapped the EPROMs and now the machine is running again. FANUC says that the EPROMs on the board are hard to find replacements for so I want to get copies made. Since you copy many a month I was wondering if you do this service for others or just yourself. It might be less risky to pay and expert than to do the copying myself. Eric

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 03 04:48PM -0700 > others or just yourself. It might be less risky to pay and expert than > to do the copying myself. > Eric   Hi Eric,   I do archive EPROMs ($15US each plus shipping) however there are a some potential risks in shipping them to me.   1) My shop is in Canada - and Fedex/UPS/DHL all charge my shop customs import fees that can reach $40US. We normally have Americans (I am assuming you are in the USA) ship stuff to us by US Post as the import fees (if that happens) is around $7US.   2) Stuff gets lost in transit. Rare, but can you afford to lose the EPROMs?   3) Handling. Do you have anti-static foam and an anti-static bag, or IC anti-static tubes that you can ship these in?   What city are you in? I can ask on the Data I/O mail list to see if anyone in your city can help you. Likely a small case of beer or bottle of wine would suffice for that person...   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 03 06:02PM -0700 On Mon, 3 Apr 2017 16:48:00 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:   >anyone in your city can help you. Likely a small case of beer or bottle >of wine would suffice for that person...   >John :-#)# Greetings John, I didn't know you were in Canada. I'm in Clinton which is on the south end of Whidbey Island. I'm north of Seattle about 30 miles as the crow (supposedly) flies. Pretty much anywhere in the Puget Sound area is OK and I am willing to drive, along with a case beer or some good wine, to get the things copied. Maybe I can even do a little machine work for someone. Thanks a bunch for making the offer to contact someone. Cheers, Eric

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 03 03:09PM -0700 peter fuckwit the LAIR   the cutn has snipped everhting out of sight so he can LIE about it.     > I have seen several dozen, as it happens. > This is a dishwasher.   ** Same kind of pumps are used - fuckhead.     > A properly installed pump dishwasher pump will barely vibrate.     ** Modern examples do, if you hold one in you hand like the OP did.   The rotors are not magnetically balanced like earlier types.   > Your explanations are not much short of idiotic,       ** My post was 100% correct - you fucking LIAR.   The OP got himself a proper watt meter a posted the correct numbers.   Drop dead ASAP you psycho, old pig.       .... Phil

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 03 10:14AM -0700 > the EPROM in direcr sunlight for several hours? > Thanks, > Eric   You need weeks in direct sunlight. And for the UV LED to work it would have to have a wavelength to be shorter than 400 NM.   UV sterilizer would work. Any UV source that warns you to never look at the bulb would likely work - the tube is not coated internally (clear glass) for UV erasers so the raw UV does the work.   Obviously do not look at the UV source, if it will erase EPROMs it will destroy your retinas.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

frank <frank@invalid.net>: Apr 03 05:45PM >>> The EPROMs are the 2716 so I had better check.   also be aware that one manufacturer (I think Texas Instruments) made a 2716 variant that needed 3 supply voltages instead of only +5V as all the other variants. If I recall correctly, those where the TMS2716. So not all "2716" are made equal. I have several programmers that can handle the single supply 2716 and none that can work with the TMS2716 without an adapter to add the other power rails.   >>you're gonna need one. > I don't suppose a UV LED would work, would it? Or what about leaving > the EPROM in direcr sunlight for several hours?   sunlight never worked in decent times for me (and also the part gets really hot most of the times). When I was really young and couldn't find a real UV tube, I had good success with "black light" tubes with exposures of a few hours or even regular fluorescent tubes with exposure of several hours. Real UV tubes are easy to find nowadays but never ever stare or look at them even for a few seconds. I recomend getting an EPROM eraser with a lock sensor that can cut the power when you open the lid. HTH Frank IZ8DWF

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 03 12:38PM -0700 On 2017/04/03 10:45 AM, frank wrote: > I have several programmers that can handle the single supply 2716 and none > that can work with the TMS2716 without an adapter to add the other power > rails.   It was indeed TI who made the trip[e-supply TMS2761 - this was supposed to simplify upgrading from triple-supply 2708s. Didn't last long.   Then TI made the TMS2516 which was electrically the same as the Intel 2716. That was more successful.   > sensor that can cut the power when you open the lid. > HTH > Frank IZ8DWF   John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

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