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John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 04 11:06AM -0700 > for someone. Thanks a bunch for making the offer to contact someone. > Cheers, > Eric   If you want to come North to Canada and visit my shop I'm sure we can work something out.   Note that unless you are a refugee you do have to go back...   John ;-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 04 05:47PM -0700 On Tue, 4 Apr 2017 11:06:50 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:   >work something out.   >Note that unless you are a refugee you do have to go back...   >John ;-#)# That's a little longer of a drive than I was considering. And I've heard that the border crossing is even worse than the summer ferry lines to Whidbey. On the other hand my wife and I like Canada and Canadians. And Vancouver. Years ago we went to Vancouver to see the Phantom of the Opera musical. We had booked a room at a small but pretty swanky hotel. I have forgotten the name though. Anyway, when we tried to check in our room was occupied. They had goofed but didn't tell us. They said there was a slight delay in getting the room ready and asked us to wait in the bar with drinks on the house. After a couple hours my wife and I were getting impatient. So we asked when the room would be ready and they explained their goof up. Unable to find us a room comparable to the one we reserved they instead put us up in the penthouse. I don't even want to know how much that room was per night. It was certainly very nice, with a bedroom, two bathrooms, a living room, a long balcony, and a kitchen. Canadian hospitality, gotta love it. Eric

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 01 11:13AM -0500 >The good capacitor is not labeled like a normal cap, so I dont know what >value it is. It says K 505J 250. (I am guessing its 250 volt, but I am >clueless about the uf value).   I did figure out one thing on my own (using Google).   505J is a Japanese way of marking a cap. In this case, it's 5uf. So it's a 5uf at 250V cap. I can only guess the "J" means Japan.   Why they cant label their caps like normal people, is frustrating, but that's how they do it. Just more complication for no advantage. Kind of like metric bolts.... The SAE bolts were just fine, but they had to complicate matters and force everyone to buy and own TWO sets of tools.

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 01 05:43AM -0500 I have a "Lights of America" Florescent fixture (4 ft - 2 bulb shop light).   Only one bulb would light. New bulbs did not fix it. Only one side of the fixture worked. (Always the same side).   I finally tore it apart.   I have repaired and replaced ballasts in a lot of fixtures, but this one is unique. Instead of having one ballast for the entire fixture, this one has thick plastic ends, with one ballast on each end. These ballasts look more like a small transformer or a choke used in power supplies on electronics. Across the wires on each ballast is a capacitor and a resistor. The choke on one end looked ok and that fed the bulb which worked. As soon as I opened the other end, I found the problem. That capacitor literally had a hole in it, and there was black burnt markings around it.   The good capacitor is not labeled like a normal cap, so I dont know what value it is. It says K 505J 250. (I am guessing its 250 volt, but I am clueless about the uf value).   Either way, I am sure that finding a capacitor that will work, would only be a guess...   But I am posting this for another reason. The wires that cross over to the defective side, are joined in the middle of the fixture with a sealed plastic box, which can not be opened. I put my VOM across those wires and there is no reading (on the ohm setting). Is that a fuse, or what? Like I said, I have never seen this type of setup. Every fixture I have ever opened just had straight thru wires, or used wirenuts to join splices.   I can only guess that when the cap shorted, it blew the fuses or whatever is in that thing...   Have any of you ever seen this type of setup?   I'm only asking this because I am curious. I do not intend to buy a new ballast, which would probably cost as much or more than a new fixture. However I may convert this fixture to 4 ft LED replacement bulbs, which means removing all ballasts and directly wiring the sockets to the AC line (only one one end of the bulbs). I was kind of thinking of converting the fixture to LED anyhow, so now I have more reason to do so.

etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 01 09:42AM -0700 >that's how they do it. Just more complication for no advantage. Kind of >like metric bolts.... The SAE bolts were just fine, but they had to >complicate matters and force everyone to buy and own TWO sets of tools. Be careful you don't bite your tongue while it is firmly planted in your cheek. Eric

Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Apr 01 12:45PM -0400 In article <favudct9q3bedocjnhtvmkadilpfg2e0ks@4ax.com>, > line (only one one end of the bulbs). I was kind of thinking of > converting the fixture to LED anyhow, so now I have more reason to do > so.   Oldschool-   You caught my interest, since I have been slowly changing some old fluorescent fixtures for LED.   I'm thinking your capacitor may use a standard method of marking: significant digits 5 and 0 followed by 5 zeros, and a J to indicate 5 percent. This is in picofarads, so the result would be 5 microfarads. I agree that the 250 would be voltage. I would expect such a capacitor to be non-polarized.   I once found a similar fixture, but the two sides were just independent. Each had an inductor for ballast, but used a starter for each. I think yours may be the modern equivalent that does not use a starter.   My thought would be to replace the entire fixture, not just convert it. The cost may be similar, but the result may look and work better.   Fred

etpm@whidbey.com: Mar 31 05:26PM -0700 On Fri, 31 Mar 2017 14:10:07 -0400, "tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net> wrote:     >Remember that the EPROMS are static sensitive. Use appropriate anti static >procedures when working with those chips.   >Google ESD for more details.   I will for sure be taking all precautions regarding ESD. Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: Mar 31 09:05AM -0700 All that know, I have a machine tool made in 1985 that has, apparently, a faulty circuit board. This board has EPROMs on it that I will need to remove and insert into a replacement board that is coming to me. Aside from making sure I am grounded to both the board and to the ground itself are there any other precautions I should take? Also, when the machine won'y be busy for a week or two I would like to get the EPROMs copied. I could send them to someone but I am also considering doing the job myself. I have other EPROMs of the same vintage that I can practice with if I do the job myself but I don't know if this is something I should try with the ones I really want back ups of. Any advice? Thanks, Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: Mar 31 05:01PM -0700 On Fri, 31 Mar 2017 11:04:32 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:   >to use a Pace or similar desoldering tool that allows you to move the >leg around while you are sucking the solder out.   >John :-#)# Greetings John, Fortunately the circuit board shows no corrosion. I do have a tool made for removing these chips so I'll just give 'em a squirt. let the stuff work for a bit, and then pull 'em. Eric

"tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Mar 30 02:44PM -0400 <stratus46@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:8d119b10-de9e-4659-bc19-9fe19945e8a9@googlegroups.com... On Thursday, March 30, 2017 at 1:13:56 AM UTC-7, Gareth Magennis wrote: > Now THAT is an amplifier.   > https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=PKN3PHASE40K   > Gareth.   Does it come with a bridge? Usually stories like this involve the sale of a bridge.   ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++   Those are vacuum cleaner watts.

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Mar 30 09:38PM +0100 wrote in message news:493dba44-f20d-46a8-999c-b7ff4a4eeca5@googlegroups.com...   On Thursday, March 30, 2017 at 4:13:56 AM UTC-4, Gareth Magennis wrote:   > Gareth.       I think you're off by a decimal place unless the exchange rate has changed!     ***********************************************************         Oops, so I am. Typo in translation 15 thousand of your US dollars will get you 20kW per side bridged, if you have an appropriate 3-phase supply.       Gareth.

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Mar 30 09:13AM +0100 wrote in message news:ud7pdc1irot26c3fsr1snjrdoispide4or@4ax.com...   FROM: https://www.surplussales.com/Microphones-Audio/MicroAudio-7.html   Now, ***THIS*** is what I call a SOUND SYSTEM !!!   (For STEREO, you'll need 2 of these)   Total audio output power (for two amps), 20KW. Tube filaments operate 6 volts @ 60 amps (each tube) Weight 5000 lbs 230 or 460 vac, 3 phase MAINS power required to operate. Speakers *NOT* included.   No schematic on website (Damnit).   ONLY $50,000 plus S+H.   The WL-5736 output tubes can be seen here: http://lampes-et-tubes.info/tt/tt004.php?l=e   Or buy one tube on ebay for $1665.00 plus $50 Shipping.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Westinghouse-WL-5736-tube-/322227283515#ht_220wt_938 ---   [Web Quote]   (EQP) WEST-FG-10 Westinghouse type FG-10 Audio Amplifier - 10 kw. Accepts 600 ohm input signal, 10 mW maximum and produces 10 kw output at impedances from 1.6 ohms up. Frequency response 30 - 10,000 Hz @ ą1.5%. Total harmonic distortion less than 5%. Reduced output available below 30 Hz and up to 20,000 Hz. Multiple tapped output transformer allows a wide range of output impedances.   Uses a McIntosh K-1071, 200 watt amplifier as a driver, feeding four (4) WL-5736 triodes with plate dissipation of 2500 watts per tube and maximum DC input power of 4200 watts.   Useful for driving vibration testing equipment or other industrial applications. Single channel, not stereo.   Another feature of this unit is that it only requires 23 square feet of floor space in a 82-1/2" tall cabinet. Condition of unit is excellent. Probably never used, but 60 years of dust. Manufactured in 1953. Weighs 2,500 lbs. Manual is included. Sold as-is. No warranty expressed or implied.   * Input power: 230 or 460 vac, 3 phase @ 50 Hz or 60 Hz * Dimensions: 34" x 44" x 82-1/2"H   $25,000 each       *********************************************************         Pah, you can get 40kW of amp in a 1U box with close to zero distortion for around $1500. Now THAT is an amplifier.   https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=PKN3PHASE40K       Gareth.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Mar 31 01:35PM -0400 In article <fa4tdc53qq04k2jcpv7992i7lrm46nbcvs@4ax.com>, etpm@whidbey.com says... > from a device just by downloading and using a text reader to see what > is there. > Eric   It would be doubtful if you could. The eprom will give a bunch of hexidecimal numbers. You would need a program that could convert that to the ladder.

etpm@whidbey.com: Mar 31 05:35PM -0700 On Fri, 31 Mar 2017 11:07:16 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:   >simply pulling the CPU and exercising the motherboard under proper power.   >Probably...   >John :-#)# The whole problem is that there is only one company in the Puget Sound area that I could find that can work on my machine. There used to be several but so many shops went out of business because of Boeing boom/bust cycles that CNC services companies also went out of business. And since I'm on an island that makes service calls even harder to get. Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: Mar 31 10:32AM -0700 I would like to read what is in the old EPROMs in my machine. They contain the ladder programming for the machine. I cannot get a copy of this ladder from Miyano, who made the lathe and wrote the ladder. Is there a way to read what is programmed in these EPROMs? I guess I should ask if there is a way I can read what is in them. I know what a ladder looks like and can read one but I don't know if one can be read from a device just by downloading and using a text reader to see what is there. Eric

oldschool@tubes.com: Mar 29 10:22PM -0500 On Thu, 02 Mar 2017 09:58:26 -0500, Bob Engelhardt >Kill-a-watt on the input showed 200w being used, and 54w output. 25% >more or less. I thought that a SMPS would be way more efficient than that.   >Bob   I had an older Pentium computer that came with a 100W PS. It worked fien until I added more RAM and an extra Harddrive. Then it would randomly crash or just do a reboot for no reason. Shortly afterwards, the PS just died. I bought a 350W PS and never had another problem with that computer. It's called RESERVE POWER. Under normal use, it only uses 54W, but add a few drives and run it real hard, and the power use demand rises.   This is about the same as an audio amplifier. You may have the output tubes or transistors that will pump out 100W, but if your power supply cant furnish the reserve power on high demand heavy bass loads, you will hear a lot of distortion, or lose power, or worse....

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 29 11:42AM -0500 On 3/29/2017 11:33 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > If you must use tubes, I could probably design a cascode > Nuvistor RF probe for the occasion.   Duly noted so your ego remains intact this time. ;-)   <http://bama.edebris.com/download/ameco/pcl-p/AMECO%20PCL.pdf>     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Mar 29 01:17PM -0400

oldschool@tubes.com: Mar 29 02:22PM -0500 On Wed, 29 Mar 2017 10:01:16 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   ><http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=nuvistor> >Hmmm... LTSpice models available for various Nuvistors. >Never mind. I don't need yet another project. For the record, I was ready to buy that kit from qrpkits.com, but found out they do not recommend it for over 50V. I emailed the vendor and asked if it could be upgraded for tube circuits. He told me that he can not recommend that, because it could be a shock hazzard. Although I do feel competent to make such a modification, I knew that would mean spending more money, and wasting more time to build a usable probe. Instead, I found a semi over priced old Eico RF probe (blue one) on Ebay, and just paid the price. As soon as it comes, I'll be all set....   I never heard of using a nuvistor in a probe, but I am sure it's possible. Seems kind of senseless though, when a simple diode along with a few other parts will do the trick. Just because I prefer to work on tubes, dont mean I wont use semi-conductors. For audio, tubes have a superior sound. For my abilities and test gear, I'll take tubes any day to work on. But I also do not mind working on older devices that contain transistors, such as my XAM amp. It's the devices that contain IC chips I detest. I'm not saying they are bad, and I am well aware my computer and a lot of other stuff contain them. But I strongly dislike working on that stuff. That was the main reason I stopped electronics in the late 70's as a hobby, and even more so as a repair business. It's not just the fact that the stuff is very hard to work on, but also that parts are far too hard to get.   As far as all thge political discussions that evolved in this thread, I have no further comments. I hate politics. However, I know it all began when I made a comment about todays youth being fat and lazy. That is my opinion, and I see it all the time. Some of my very good friends have kids who are now in their 20's and even their parents (my friends) say the same thing. I see it all the time. That dont mean I am right, it's just my opinion, buty I have a right to my opinion, and to express it based on my "freedom of speech" as well as just saying what I feel. Then again, there are a few exceptions. I know one young man who is a very hard worker and he has a good head on his shoulders. But he is one in 100 or 1000. Most of today's youth have no goals. They spend their time staring at their cellphones, work as little as possible (or not at all), and eat as much as they can cram down their throats, and it shows!   However, none of that has anytrhing to do with the topic of this newsgroup, aside from the fact that I would likely win a bet if I said that no one on this group is under the age of 45. Today's youth dont care to do electronics as a hobby. Nor do they care to do much of anything that involves using their brains or muscles. But I am not gonna join them. They can sit in their fancy restaurants and bars spending their parents money, and talking on a cellphone to the person sitting next to them. None of which makes any sense to me...... I'm just glad I was born in the 50's when life still had meaning. My only complaint about being born at that time is all the aches and pains I feel now! Getting old sucks! But I doubt I need to explain that to any of you old farts :)

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 29 09:44AM -0700 On Wed, 29 Mar 2017 09:23:52 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"   >"You are not entitled to your opinion. You are entitled >to your informed opinion. Nobody is entitled to be ignorant." >Harlan Ellison   I beg to differ. I one did some work in a sausage factory (adjacent to feed lot) which caused me to loose my taste for sausage. Believe me, you do not want to know how sausage is made. If the public was properly informed, the entire sausage industry would collapse. Better ignorant than informed.   It's like that in many areas, where carnal knowledge of the internal workings and operations can be seriously repulsive. If you knew the details of the private lives of historical figures, public personalities, politicians, and actors, you would probably be disappointed. Just meeting some of these in person can produce a similar reaction. Better to believe the myth than to be disappointed by the truth.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

oldschool@tubes.com: Mar 29 10:09PM -0500 On Wed, 29 Mar 2017 12:54:10 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com> wrote:     >A little bit of education does appear to help, however.   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA     I fully agree about the parents. But these days, you cant lift a finger or you'll be charged with abuse. An old spanking stick still has it's place. I know I got that stick several times and it was far from abuse. It just made me think....   But it does go beyond the parents. There is a lot to blame on the schools. From what I hear, most of them no longer have shop classes or anything like that. Heck, when I was in HS, I took every shop class they had. Wood shop, metal shop, motor shop, electronics shop, and more.... but I guess that stuff is "too dangerous" for kids these days. So, instead of cutting off a finger on a table saw, the kids lose their limbs from diabetes due to their obesity.... Or lose their lives from drug abuse because they are so damn bored....   I never had any children, so I cant brag about them.... Glad yours turned out good! But I will brag that my four legged kids are really good! (And I do have a REAL kid, a pet goat) :)

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Apr 01 04:37PM -0700 My dishwasher isn't draining. The drain lines are clean. I removed the drain pump motor and the first thing I noticed was that when you begin to turn it by hand, there is a lot of resistance from what feels like a magnetic force. Then when you continue turning it by hand and overcome the magnetic resistance, it pops into its next neutral position, sort of like when you turn a crankshaft on a gas engine by hand and the resistance of the lifters gives way on the other side of the cam lobe. When I powered it up on the bench, the motor shakes quite a bit. What would cause a failure like this?   Thanks for your replies. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Apr 04 10:26AM -0700 pf: fixya = USELESS

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 04 02:54PM -0400 On Tue, 4 Apr 2017 07:32:51 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com> wrote:   >port it. It just may not be where you expect it to be.   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA   I know how to use Google and it took me more than a minute (on dialup), but I was already at these and many more sites that google came up with. NONE of the above produced any manual. I spent well over 2 hours prior to posting this question, using google to no avail.   The manualsonline.com does have some links to actual Radio Shack manuals though, but not this one   repeater-builder.com is one of the more useful sites, but ONLY for 2-way radios, ham gear, and scanners. However, I did learn soemthing from this site. That is the fact that Radio Shack went bankrupt (which I knew), in 2015. They are now owned by Sprint.   But the real answer to my question is: Manuals are no longer available on the public Radio Shack web site. (I know they were available in they past).

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 04 02:59PM -0400 On Tue, 4 Apr 2017 07:34:46 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com> wrote:     >http://www.fixya.com/support/t23778838-archer_15_1263_users_manual   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA     Did you actually look at this RUBBISH site? * No you didn't.....   I learned years ago, to stay away from this site. All it is, is a catchall for anything containing "archer". There is archery, some other stuff that contains that word, and nothing useful.

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