- Semi OT, drip coffee makers - 3 Updates
- Using a Thermal Gun / Infrared Thermometer for electronics - 1 Update
- Drive shaft coupler for oscilloscope controls - 2 Updates
| ohger1s@gmail.com: May 09 08:16AM -0700 On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 5:47:39 AM UTC-4, Bruce Esquibel wrote: > It just dawned on me, what we do that is probably different is we don't > leave it running after the coffee is brewed. We always use a decanter, .... and right after it's done brewing, pour the pot into it and shut off the > base unit. So the base just brews and we don't use it to keep the coffee > warmed. I suppose if the base is left on for hours at a time it'll shorten > the life span quite a bit. I've always said that if you want to make Starbucks coffee at home, brew a weak pot of coffee and let it sit on the heat for 8 hours. Weak, burnt, and bitter coffee for a lot less than Starbucks charges. We do the same. As soon as the brew cycle is finished we get the pot off the built in hot plate and poor what's left (after serving our first two cups) into an insulated carafe. I was fortunate to find a vintage Thermos Coffee Butler (made in W. Germany) on ebay for $15 delivered in never used condition to replace the one we had that suffered an internal glass breakage. The generic one that we had did not keep anything hot for more than an hour. The vintage Coffee Butler will keep hot coffee HOT for 8 hours at least without imparting that burnt and bitter taste that keeping direct heat on it causes. |
| Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 09 11:10AM -0500 > I brew a pot of coffee every morning. > (electric) Drip coffee makers last about 6-12 months, > before something goes bad. My parents bought one of these in the '50s. <http://www.ebay.com/itm/162165262386> I still have it, it still works and I've never had to repair it. -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
| Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: May 09 12:27PM -0400 In article <oes37p$g9m$1@remote5bge0.ripco.com>, > I dunno which one you are using but around here, the basic "just a switch" > Mr.Coffee 12 cup is only around $15 not including tax. At the local Walmart they're around $20. A couple years ago, my new one stopped working. It seems that something sticky found its way into the water reservoir and gummed-up a simple ball valve in a rubber hose. That was easy to clean once I figured it out. Recently the light burned out in the on/off switch. Mr. Coffee does not sell that switch, so you have to go looking for a replacement. I found an NTE 54-525 at Newark Electronics for less than $2, but they wanted $10 for shipping! I ended up buying several items to spread out the cost of shipping. Gone are the days when you could buy such stuff in a local store. Fred |
| ohger1s@gmail.com: May 09 08:23AM -0700 On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 8:21:14 PM UTC-4, mike wrote: > component that was bad. It was a .1uF cap. Those rarely > short. I would never have found it without > the thermal imager. I've seen a lot of those little smd film caps short recently on TV mains and tcons. I don't have an imager, but I give the circuit board a dose of freeze spray, feed in a limited current to the shorted line, and see where the white frost blanket thaws first. With any luck, it's the actual component that thaws first. Problems arise when the offending shorted is close to zero ohms and some feeding component gets hot. |
| mike <ham789@netzero.net>: May 08 05:41PM -0700 > I have a Hameg HM-408 scope that uses extended shafts to go from the front panel to the switch / pots mounted inboard on the PCBs. These shafts are 2mm dia and the switches / pots are 4mm dia and are connected via flexible couplings. > Five of these couplings have failed and so I'm looking for suitable replacement couplings that will connect to the 2mm shaft on the control knob and onto the 4mm shaft from the pots / switches. > Can any point me in the direction of possible replacement units? What do you mean by "failed"? If the parts that clamp onto the shafts are good, you may get by replacing the flexible part. Take some flexible metal strip, or piano wire. Bend it in a loop big enough to flex, but small enough to fit in the space allotted. Solder it to the metal clamps. If they're steel, solder should work. If aluminum, there's some stuff called Welco 52. https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1::OR:00052-90 You won't need much, so you can buy similar stuff at most any hardware store or big-box store without breaking the bank. _________________________ If you can find a 2mm flexible coupling, you may be able to just drill out one end to 4mm. ___________________________ You may be able to find a spring that will do the job. For low-torque applications like pots, maybe a ball point pen spring and some epoxy. If the spring is a tight fit on one end, it will slip before the epoxy breaks on the other end...maybe... |
| ggherold@gmail.com: May 08 06:04PM -0700 > I have a Hameg HM-408 scope that uses extended shafts to go from the front panel to the switch / pots mounted inboard on the PCBs. These shafts are 2mm dia and the switches / pots are 4mm dia and are connected via flexible couplings. > Five of these couplings have failed and so I'm looking for suitable replacement couplings that will connect to the 2mm shaft on the control knob and onto the 4mm shaft from the pots / switches. > Can any point me in the direction of possible replacement units? How much flex do you need? Spiral cut flexible coupling might be cheap. (As someone said you might be able to drill out one end.) George H. |
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