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whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: May 09 05:29PM -0700 On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 6:35:37 PM UTC-7, rickman wrote: > Even that ratio will still dissolve more water into it and the residue > evaporate readily. No need to blow drops off, acetone is very thin and > in a few seconds evaporates totally.   That's true only while the acetone forms a thin film; when the acetone evaporates the water remains and beads up into slow-evaporating drops. Alcohol does just as good a film-producing job, and evaporates slower so the water is likely to evaporate simultaneously.   For many materials (like those used in printed circuits) the bake-dry is required anyhow, because the substrate isn't completely water-impermeable. The blow-off of droplets usually is to remove dissolved dirt, not just the water and solvent.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 09 08:35PM -0400 On 5/9/2017 8:29 PM, whit3rd wrote: >> in a few seconds evaporates totally.   > That's true only while the acetone forms a thin film; when the acetone evaporates the > water remains and beads up into slow-evaporating drops.   Not correct unless there is too much water. Acetone forms an azeotrope with water which evaporates first, ahead of either purer water or purer acetone. If your acetone absorbs enough water to cause this problem you need to get your lab out of the river.     > Alcohol does just as good a film-producing job, and evaporates slower > so the water is likely to evaporate simultaneously.   If you don't mind waiting, why use either?     > For many materials (like those used in printed circuits) the bake-dry is required > anyhow, because the substrate isn't completely water-impermeable. The blow-off > of droplets usually is to remove dissolved dirt, not just the water and solvent.   The dirt should have been rinsed off. If you have crud remaining in the rinse water your washer isn't working.   --   Rick C

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: May 09 05:57PM -0700 On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:48:29 PM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote: > > a product, once. > >Their marketing looks like snake oil ... to the best of my knowledge, none of their competition is any better.   > ** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.   Sure, the D100L (red stuff) is a 'cleaner' which dissolves gunk. If you have enough access to scrub, any cleaner would work as well, I suspect. The grease, though, and the 'enhancer' products (blue, or gold) that leave a film behind, they work.   The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 09 07:11PM -0700 whit3rd wrote: --------------   > > ** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices > > way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.   > Sure, the D100L (red stuff) is a 'cleaner' which dissolves gunk.   ** No it is gunk, a mix of snake oil and bullshit.       > The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.     ** Yawnnnnnnnnnn   One born every minute....     ..... Phil

jurb6006@gmail.com: May 09 08:53PM -0700 I have found that LPS2 works even better, but it is bit re expensive and hard to get locally.   There is one type of pot it does bother though, the sliders with the nylon looking sliders. (under the knobs) It froxe up the ones in a Soundcraftsman EQ for me, nut then so did everything else. The (looks like) nylon they is is probably very porous. And nothing will fix it, all you can do is wait until it all evaporates out. Only thing I can figure it that it swells that particular material. The nice thing is I do not see that type of plastic or whatever used in very much.   The only Caig product I like is Deoxit because that is actually a reducer. For lubing afterward, WD or LPS or even white lithium grease.   The one thing I noticed about WD40 is when used to clean the old mechanical tuners in TVs it would detune them until most of it evaporated, LPS2 was much better for that application.   Thing is, Deoxit is so expensive that its use is only warranted for certain things.   That's what I have found over the decades. that these things are safe on ALMOST everything. Acetone on the other hand has to kept away from cabinet parts and other plastics. The main thing I used it for was to clean PC boards after a coolant leak in an RPTV. You might never have had to do that, those were not as popular other places from when I hear. The US loved them, especially the later ones that had a good picture. After he coolant started a few fires, manufacturers started putting gutters in them to keep it off the PC boards. It is not conductive but when exposed to voltage it becomes conductive as well as corrosive. it gets as bad as that shit that leaked out of the electrolyics.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 09 09:16PM -0700 jurb...@gmail.com wrote:   ------------------------   > The one thing I noticed about WD40 is when used to clean the old > mechanical tuners in TVs it would detune them until most of it > evaporated, LPS2 was much better for that application.   ** WD-40 and LPS2 are near identical products, same ingredients in the same percentages and both use CO2 as a propellant.   It is *NUTS* to spray any oil bearing fluid onto RF circuitry - oil has a much higher dielectric constant than air. It therefore adds capacitance to any coil, wiring, PCB pattern or tuning gang it lands on.   The correct procedure with rotary TV tuners was to apply some WD-40 to a small piece of paper which is then wedged between the moving contacts while the tuner is turned. This cleans up the contacts nicely while preventing any oil getting on the RF coils.   Anecdote 1:   I once had a customer who decided to fix his FM tuner by spraying WD-40 all over the PCB and tuning gang. Afterwards, the stations had moved half way across the dial.   It took me a over an hour hour, using various solvents to get the oil off everything and put them back where they were. A tiny bit of WD-40 on the bearings of the gang fixed the noise he has been getting.   Anecdote 2.   Folk who run RC cars and boats can end up with a wet, non functioning radio receiver - so they reach for the WD40. Big mistake.   The correct procedure is to wash the PCB in denatured alcohol (aka Metho) and then allow to dry in the sun or using hot air.       .... Phil

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: May 09 11:44PM -0700 On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 7:11:25 PM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote:

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: May 09 11:57PM -0700 On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 7:11:25 PM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote: > whit3rd wrote:   [about Caig]   > ** No it is gunk, a mix of snake oil and bullshit.   > > The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.   > One born every minute....   Yes, Phil, you ARE easily fooled. It isn't about the snake oil or the sales force's farce of literature, and the confusing products (five of them called "DeOxit"). It's about the products. I'm the guy with the milliohm data, and some idea of which product I'm talking about. You're the one with the sneer.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 10 01:00AM -0700 whit3rd wrote:   ---------------       > > > The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.   > > One born every minute....   > Yes, Phil, you ARE easily fooled.   ** We'll see.     > called "DeOxit"). > It's about the products. I'm the guy with the milliohm data, and some > idea of which product I'm talking about. You're the one with the sneer.   ** That load of meaningless shit has *FOOL* written all over it.   Your done, go away.   ..... Phil

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 10 08:23AM -0700 Remember: Phil's fulminations are in inverse proportion to the accuracy of his position.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 10 11:40AM -0400 > Remember: Phil's fulminations are in inverse proportion to the accuracy of his position.   I take it that provoking Phil to expel expletives is a sport in this group?   --   Rick C

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 09 12:57PM -0400 > get into it. Hmm maybe I can ditch the uP and just put voltages > on the wires to turn the relays on and off.. there's ~6-8 wires coming > from the uP area.   What is most likely bad? Switches or connectors. I don't think I would bother trying to fix the MCU. If you are convinced it's not a fuse or contact, I would suggest buying a new one this time. These things can start house fires.   Have you considered a French press? I guess you still have to boil the water.   Maybe you should complain to the coffee machine maker? I had a shower head from Water Pic once and the collar broke after a couple years. I wrote them complaining about the collar being made of plastic and they sent me a metal one. Maybe Mr. Coffee makes a decent unit that won't go bad a month after the warranty is up.   --   Rick C

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 09 01:01PM -0400 On 5/9/2017 1:16 AM, mike wrote: > paper filter is easier to toss. I made about a gallon > at a session and stuck it in the fridge. Obviously, > I'm not a connoisseur.   Brewed coffee keeps perfectly fine in the fridge. But tossing all those coffee grounds is such a waste. They are excellent for compost and vermiculture. My roommate would have a cup every day and the worms love both the filter and the grounds. But he is living with his girlfriend and the worms are suffering caffeine withdrawal.     > Keep a few of the real K-cups on hand so you can impress > visitors with your extravagance and wanton disregard for the > environment. ;-)   Indeed!   --   Rick C

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: May 09 02:06PM -0700 > And what's the average lifetime of a Kerig?   > George H.   I'm guessing less than two years based on what I'm seeing at garage sales. That solenoid runs very hot 24/7. The plastic valve disintegrates. If you plug it in for 5 minutes a few times a day, it should last forever. At least, that's what I'm hoping for. The real K-cup coffee does taste better than the refillable ones. I've done a lot of experiments to try to improve that, but the only ones that improved the situation used proprietary filters that cost about as much as the coffee you're brewing.   The drip pots I've used had nothing but a switch and a heating element (plus the safety thermal cutout). Not much to go wrong. I always turned them off immediately and reheated the contents in the microwave a cup at a time as needed.   I still like the coffee made in the French Press better. Made it once a week and put a gallon of it in the fridge. But it takes half an hour to run several cycles thru the press and clean up.   This thread made me realize that the only reason I use the Keurig is my emotional investment in fixing it and all the little DIY K-cup versions that I collected. And the coffee tastes worse than the alternatives.   Where did I put that French Press???

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: May 09 05:18PM -0700 > > leave it running after the coffee is brewed. We always use a decanter,   > Yeah that might be part of it. I leave to warmer on and they now have > timers to turn it off after 2hrs or something.   The 'gold cup' SCAA coffee standard is 45 minutes. A local restaurant a few years ago had timers and signs, and always had great coffee, presumably partly because they followed that rule. There are brewers that don't have a warmer at all, just brew directly into a Dewar flask. I'm sold on that. Like this:   <https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Coffee-Optimal-Thermal-Stainless/dp/B010SN80UK>   But if you really want good coffee... read this   <http://gizmodo.com/5642561/seeking-mojo-chasing-the-perfect-cup-of-coffee-through-science>

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: May 10 11:03AM -0400 On 05/08/2017 09:10 PM, Rheilly Phoull wrote: >> (Is cuppa only for a cup of tea.. in Oz?)   >> George H.   > Theres cold brew but it's a lot more messing about.   I have a couple of Gevalia-branded ones that have lasted for years and years. Ebay is your friend. ;)   Cheers   Phil Hobbs   -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics   160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net

ggherold@gmail.com: May 10 08:25AM -0700 On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 8:18:11 PM UTC-4, whit3rd wrote:   > The 'gold cup' SCAA coffee standard is 45 minutes. A local restaurant > a few years ago had timers and signs, and always had great coffee, > presumably partly because they followed that rule.   Right during the week it's only on for ~10-15 minutes. During the weekend it may be longer, but as you say the coffee slowly goes from coffee to Java to Joe. (my terms). You can stand the spoon up in Joe. :^)   George H. There are brewers

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 10 11:36AM -0400 On 5/10/2017 11:03 AM, Phil Hobbs wrote:   >> Theres cold brew but it's a lot more messing about.   > I have a couple of Gevalia-branded ones that have lasted for years and > years. Ebay is your friend. ;)   I took a look and there are a number of different Gevalia models.   In fact, it is amazing the proliferation of coffee makers. There may be more types of coffee makers than there are types of coffee!   --   Rick C

oldschool@tubes.com: May 10 12:34AM -0400 I've been dealing with a vacuum cleaner that has a cloth bag, and is only good for floors. I was thinking of buying a new one so I can also use it on walls and to vacuum things like the fan opening on my computer and other stuff.   I was driving past a house the other day that was just sold, and there was a pile of furniture and stuff in front for the trash. In that pile was an old Electrolux canister vacuum, called "a Silverado Deluxe", complete with the hose accessories and the carpet extension.   I brought it home and found it works perfectly, except the bag was full. I dumped out as much of the bag as I could and was shocked at the power it has. From what I have seen online, this was an extremely well built and durable machine. There is one selling on ebay right now, without the hose or any attachments, for $70 plus $53 shipping. That's $123 total. It appears to have been made in the early 1970s. That Ebay ad says "1505" after the description, so I can only assume that is the model.   In my case, the price was right.....   The bags are paper, and have a rubber type seal around the opening. So I need some new bags. However I can not find any model number on it anywhere. The old bag says "Electrolux" but dont have any sort of part number on it either.   There are no vacuum cleaner stores in the area, so I am stuck with getting bags at Walmart (if they have them), or on Ebay.   Does anyone know anything about buying bags for these vacuums, and know how to order them? Do I order them by size, or just give the name of the machine, since I do not have the model number?????   Or, is there an online place that caters to selling vacuum cleaners and parts for them?   I did notice there is a place where they was once a tag on the machine, I assume that must be where the model number was posted....   Thanks

jack4747@gmail.com: May 09 11:41PM -0700 > Or, is there an online place that caters to selling vacuum cleaners and > parts for them?   tried google?   https://www.google.ch/search?client=opera&q=electrolux+silverado+deluxe+bags&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8   Bye Jack

tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 10 07:15AM -0700 > I did notice there is a place where they was once a tag on the machine, > I assume that must be where the model number was posted....   > Thanks   I don't know why you want a model number when you have a model name.   When I've been unable to get bags, I've attached new paperbag to the old header section. Do it properly so it won't come off.     NT

oldschool@tubes.com: May 10 12:38AM -0400 On Tue, 9 May 2017 07:39:22 +1000, Trevor Wilson >LF353, TL072 etc). That covers 99% of OP amps. Then there are single >in-line ones, but they're pretty rare nowadays. So, no, they don't have >different pinouts. They mostly have standard pinouts.   I'd be interested in seeing a schematic and maybe building one of these testers. Is there a schematic for it online?

Ned-Mister <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1072@example.com>: May 10 03:37AM responding to http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/sony-zs-rs60bt-personal-audio-system-boombox-cd-usb-bluetoo-166676-.htm , Ned-Mister wrote: > open without denting the plastic.. Does anyone has a service manual?   > > Thanks.   > Thank you... Best regards.   Did you ever find the service manual for the Sony ZS-RS60BT? I need the same document and cannot located this item online.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 09 05:55PM -0700 Hi,   a customer who owns a few tube guitar amps bought himself a couple of "tube bias adaptors" complete with small DMMs.   The adaptor is hand made and consists of an octal plug and socket pair, with matching pins wired straight through EXCEPT for the two pin 8s which are brought out on leads terminated with banana plugs. The idea is to monitor cathode current with the amp running at idle and the DMM set to the 200mA DC current range. Internal trims can then be adjusted to get the desired readings.   My customer got some strange readings with a pair of new "Tung-Sol" EL34s so brought the Marshall amp and adaptors to me.   The problem turned out the be with both DMMs which had dicky range switches, the slightest movement altered the resistance of the range by a large factor. It should have been a steady 1 ohm.   I opened each meter as gave the range switch a quick squirt of WD-40 and rotated it a few times resulting in a good fix - the resistance of the 200mA ranges showing a steady 1.1ohms on my Fluke.   Then I though about it, these adaptors are offered on Ebay complete with DMMs for US$20 each.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tube-Amp-Bias-Tester-Adapter-Meter-6V6-6L6-5881-EL34-6550-KT88-plate-current-/391774187246?hash=item5b378faeee:g:Tq0AAOSwB-1Yx0Tz   The DMMs are extremely cheap, selling for around US$3 each.   But the PROBLEM is that the banana plugs are not shrouded and the user can receive a possibly lethal electric shock if the bare plugs are handled.   It would be FAR better and safer if the adaptor itself contained a 1ohm resistor ( with diode protection ) so the external meter read the *voltage* appearing across it on its 200mV DC range.   This way, the banana plugs are not live and tube current does not have to pass along the external leads. I suspect the makers have simply NOT thought through the design.   Anyhow, be wary if you ever come across one and do warn any who owns is about the buy one of the hazards.       ..... Phil

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: May 09 02:10PM -0700 >> short. I would never have found it without >> the thermal imager.   > I've seen a lot of those little smd film caps short recently on TV mains and tcons. I don't have an imager, but I give the circuit board a dose of freeze spray, feed in a limited current to the shorted line, and see where the white frost blanket thaws first. With any luck, it's the actual component that thaws first. Problems arise when the offending shorted is close to zero ohms and some feeding component gets hot.   That's why it took me so long to find that one. It was absolutely, positively zero ohms. It shut down the power supply instantly. I had to tap into the correct branch of the power distribution and apply current there to generate any heat.

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