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Retired <Retired@home.com>: May 01 01:00PM -0400 On 5/1/17 12:07 PM, Micky wrote:   > BTW, I want to use the radio, so that's one big reason I want it > fixed. When it stopped playing while she was there, she said, "Oh, > yeah, maybe that's why I bought another one" (She speaks English.)   According to WD-40's "List of 2000+ Uses" at https://wd40.com/files/pdf/wd_40_2000_uses_updated_jan_2017.pdf "• Cleans gunk from electrical contacts" is one of them

Micky <misc07@bigfoot.com>: May 01 07:07PM +0300 WD-40 to clean electric contacts?   I'm on vacation and renting a room, and my landlady has a combination CD/Radio/Cassette?, very compact, portable, works well except fo the little on/off/CD slide switch.   The switch doesn't easily make contact, even when pushed to and past the On position. So it's hard to get the radio on, and it turns off by itself in about 30 minutes. Moving the switch back and forth 10 times to clean it hasn't worked yet.   Normally what I would do is spray contact cleaner or tuner cleaner in the switch from above, where the plastic slider that goes over the switch is, And normally that doesn't accomplish much.   Even taking such things apart and spraying the switch from underneath has taken longer to work than for rheostats, for example, and here I don't want to take it apart. She's only my landlady.   I don't know where in this non-English-speaking country to buy contact cleaner and she might balk at the extra money, but she does have something in an aerosol can that looks mighty like WD-40.   I have this vague recollection that WD-40 is good to clean electric contacts?? Either that or it's bad for them. Should I try it.   BTW, I want to use the radio, so that's one big reason I want it fixed. When it stopped playing while she was there, she said, "Oh, yeah, maybe that's why I bought another one" (She speaks English.)

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 01 10:40AM -0700 A few things on WD-40.   Its name means Water Displacement - 40th try. It is, essentially, stoddard solvent, that is highly refined kerosene and a very small amount of very light mineral oil. It is 100% volatile over time. Which is directly related to temperature. Most gunks and goos are soluble in WD-40. But, what is not rinsed away will be evenly distributed when the solvent evaporates. So beware! It is a rather gentle solvent, and does not attack most plastics or finishes. *MOST*, not all!   WD-40 is NOT a contact cleaner. What it does along those lines is by rinsing. WD-40 is not a lubricant. It will (temporarily) reconstitute some lubricants under some conditions.   Good luck with it, you could do worse.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 01 02:08PM -0500 On 5/1/2017 12:00 PM, Retired wrote: > According to WD-40's "List of 2000+ Uses" at > https://wd40.com/files/pdf/wd_40_2000_uses_updated_jan_2017.pdf > "• Cleans gunk from electrical contacts" is one of them   And most of the 2000 ideas are marketing hype.   -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 01 01:04PM -0700 > WD-40 is NOT a contact cleaner. What it does along those lines is by rinsing. > WD-40 is not a lubricant. It will (temporarily) reconstitute some lubricants under some conditions.   > Good luck with it, you could do worse.   Stoddard solvent is aka white spirit. I'd try 100 times rather than 10.     NT

Wade Garrett <wade@cooler.net>: May 01 04:24PM -0400 On 5/1/17 3:08 PM, Foxs Mercantile wrote: >> https://wd40.com/files/pdf/wd_40_2000_uses_updated_jan_2017.pdf >> "• Cleans gunk from electrical contacts" is one of them   > And most of the 2000 ideas are marketing hype.   You're a regular party-pooper!   -- If people, who cross our border illegally are not Illegal— then what are they? - @chuckwoolery

burfordTjustice <burfordTjustice@tues.uk>: May 01 04:25PM -0400 On Mon, 01 May 2017 19:07:44 +0300   > BTW, I want to use the radio, so that's one big reason I want it > fixed. When it stopped playing while she was there, she said, "Oh, > yeah, maybe that's why I bought another one" (She speaks English.)   Report back the results after you man up and try it.

oldschool@tubes.com: May 01 04:56PM -0400 > I don't know where in this non-English-speaking country to buy >contact cleaner and she might balk at the extra money, but she does >have something in an aerosol can that looks mighty like WD-40.   Get it on Ebay and have it shipped to you.

Ian Jackson <ianREMOVETHISjackson@g3ohx.co.uk>: May 01 10:48PM +0100 In message <b139cdd6-bb7e-4c10-9c18-72fa2c407b88@googlegroups.com>, "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com> writes   >WD-40 is NOT a contact cleaner. What it does along those lines is by rinsing. >WD-40 is not a lubricant. It will (temporarily) reconstitute some >lubricants under some conditions.   The makers of WD40 might disagree with you.   >Good luck with it, you could do worse.   Indeed. WE40 may be the perfect cure for every problem - but it IS a good general-purpose cleaner/lubricant/anti-corrosion fluid. I've never had any problems with it. -- ian

etpm@whidbey.com: May 01 02:58PM -0700 On Mon, 1 May 2017 10:40:36 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com> wrote:     >WD-40 is NOT a contact cleaner. What it does along those lines is by rinsing. >WD-40 is not a lubricant. It will (temporarily) reconstitute some lubricants under some conditions.   >Good luck with it, you could do worse. WD-40 does not completely evaporate over time unless the temperature is higher than that which is compatible with human life. It leaves a kind of hard residue, almost like a very hard wax. A very thin coating. Which, unless baked on, will be easily dissloved when next doused with WD-40. I have had direct experience with this coating. It can be used to repaior an oil-rubbed bronze finish. Eric

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 01 03:50PM -0700 > WD-40 does not completely evaporate over time unless the temperature > is higher than that which is compatible with human life.   No, it does completely evaporate. That 'leftover' is the previous skunge dissolved and spread over everything.   To prove this out:   Take a standard paper towel, clean and dry. Saturate it in WD-40. Leave it on a clean surface in a location in your domicile exposed to normal temperature variations. Check it in 4-20 days depending on ambient temperatures.   Don't take my word for it.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 01 03:51PM -0700 On 2017/05/01 1:24 PM, Wade Garrett wrote: >>> "• Cleans gunk from electrical contacts" is one of them   >> And most of the 2000 ideas are marketing hype.   > You're a regular party-pooper!   Having cleaned the residue (glue like substance) of WD-40 from many an electrical unit I would say that it's only practical use is for preventing rust on tools.   Everything else is hype.   There are FAR better solvents out there than WD-40...and cheaper!   John :-#(#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 01 04:11PM -0700 > Don't take my word for it.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   I have a bit of trouble with your test, Peter. If it left no residue then WD-40 couldn't prevent rust on tools (which was all it was only designed to do).   Instead of your paper towel, pour some WD-40 on a sheet of glass and let it sit and evaporate for a while and see what remains.   There MUST be some sort of residue.   My shop's experience is WD-40 plus oil = glue/goo.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 01 05:09PM -0700 Micky wrote:   > I have this vague recollection that WD-40 is good to clean electric > contacts?? Either that or it's bad for them.   ** WD40 is excellent at making bad contacts good again.   Switches, connectors and pots are all examples.     .... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 01 05:10PM -0700 Sjouke Burry wrote: > And cleaning/flooding the switch a day or two later with > something volatile,(alcohol,turpentine or such) will take > care of the wd40 residue(maybe).   ** No need to do that, the reside is just light mineral oil.     .... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 01 05:16PM -0700 > A few things on WD-40.   ** So a few lies from this norotious WD-40 hater.     > It is, essentially, stoddard solvent, that is highly refined > kerosene and a very small amount of very light mineral oil.     ** WD-40 contains no kerosene and the oil content is 10-15 %.   > It is 100% volatile over time. Which is directly related to temperature.     ** At room temp, that could means years.       > WD-40 is NOT a contact cleaner. What it does along those lines is by rinsing.   ** So the same action as other contact cleaners.     > WD-40 is not a lubricant.     ** Of course it is.         ..... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 01 05:18PM -0700 > Stoddard solvent is aka white spirit.   ** Which is refined petrol, aka lighter fluid.         ..... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 01 05:22PM -0700 > kind of hard residue, almost like a very hard wax. A very thin > coating. Which, unless baked on, will be easily dissloved when next > doused with WD-40. I have had direct experience with this coating.   ** Ever burn some oil in a fry pan ?   If you put WD-40 on parts that get hot, a similar residue forms.   It cleans off easily or dissolves in fresh WD-40 so is not a problem.   I see it on the pins of certain noval tubes from time to time.       .... Phil

oldschool@tubes.com: May 01 07:34PM -0400 On Mon, 1 May 2017 22:48:40 +0100, Ian Jackson   >Indeed. WE40 may be the perfect cure for every problem - but it IS a >good general-purpose cleaner/lubricant/anti-corrosion fluid. I've never >had any problems with it.   I've never had any problems with it either, but there are tw othings ti does not do well. 1. Loosen rusted bolts. (I use PB Blaster for that, it's a much better product). 2. Be used as a permanent lubricant. For example, if the tailgate on my pickup is sticking, I will use WD 40 to loosen that linkage, but once the linkage is loose, I apply an oil or grease to that linkage for a permanent lube. I dont think the WD 40 totally evaporates, but there is little lube left. Thus I apply the oil or whatever as a permanent lube for that linkage.   I have never used WD 40 for electronic switch contacts or potentiometers. I always used contact cleaner. But I have used WD 40 on auto connectors such as trailer light plugs, with corrosion on them. It helps clean them, but I always clean them as best as possible too.   Overall, its top promotion seems to be to loosen rusted bolts, and I find it near worthless for that purpose. But it does have some other uses which are valuable. It's also works rather well to clean off oxidation on old dull paint (on cars and other metal objects).   There are other generic replacements for WD 40 that are cheaper and work just as well. I usually buy them.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 01 10:43AM -0700 On Monday, 1 May 2017 17:17:34 UTC+1, Phil Hobbs wrote: > lasts a long time.   > Cheers   > Phil Hobbs   It's safe for humans but far from for animals.   If you're looking for a cheap option, vapona type flykiller sticks containing dichlorvos wipe out insect life pretty well, while windows are closed. 2 of those can wipe a house clean. It is an organophosphate and banned in some places.     NT

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: May 01 04:28PM -0400 >> Cheers   >> Phil Hobbs   > It's safe for humans but far from for animals.   Depends on the animal. IIRC dogs are OK but not cats. And even a cat would have to lick the tray pretty hard to get any exposure from dried permethrin.   > containing dichlorvos wipe out insect life pretty well, while windows > are closed. 2 of those can wipe a house clean. It is an > organophosphate and banned in some places.   Yeah, the old No-Pest Strip gizmos.   Doesn't get into the crevices that well though, I don't think.   Cheers   Phil Hobbs     -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics   160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: May 01 01:42PM -0700 On 04/30/2017 09:09 AM, rickman wrote: > the place?   > I've never had them, thank God, but I have seen info about them and the > temperature thing is supposed to be for real.   I hear that spice extracts drive them away (peppermint oil, spearmint oil, cinnamon oil, vanilla oil, etc..)

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 01 03:51PM -0700 > > I've never had them, thank God, but I have seen info about them and the > > temperature thing is supposed to be for real.   > I hear that spice extracts drive them away (peppermint oil, spearmint oil, cinnamon oil, vanilla oil, etc..)   Oil of Pennyroyal. Gets rid of anything. DOES NOT KILL - drives stuff away, from fleas to spiders.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: May 01 01:10PM -0700 On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 9:35:25 AM UTC-7, N_Cook wrote: > > First, you are writing of some sort of casual static discharge where the thumbdrive is in the current path.... Purchase a very cheap thumbdrive, and try to wreck it via static. You should be reassured by the results.   > I assume an old SD card would make a reasonable stand-in. I'll dig out > an old ion-generator and have a go.   An SD card is NOT a reasonable standin. The USB connector shell is a Faraday shield, which SD lacks. The finger contacts for power and GND of a USB connector are the longest (most likely to engage first), but all SD pins are similarly accessible. USB data goes through a differential transceiver, but an SD card sends and receives single-ended logic signals. A 'dead' SD card may be hard to detect, unless your reader can exercise all its modes of data transfer.   As far as electrical properties of the connector are concerned, only the power and ground pins have similar properties between SD and USB (and those are NOT the static-sensitive pins).

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: May 01 08:07PM +0100 "lsmartino" <luismartino76@gmail.com> wrote in message news:9cc10f5e-5dcd-4b6e-ba56-b775faa475d5@googlegroups.com... >> probably keep coming in for a few days.   >> This crap never used to happen with XP.   > Maybe you should check your hardware... HDD failing perhaps?   My XP box just did - it had been getting flaky, but nothing serious. I decided to delete the boot partition and start over - the installer reported that formatting the HDD failed. When I get time - a few tests to make sure, then the bin.   The HDD & PSU are possible suspects on the W10 box - but the new install appears to be working.   The problem I needed help with - I'd forgotten what to type in the WLM2009 server settings.

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