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rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 01 09:08PM -0400 On 5/1/2017 12:39 PM, Sjouke Burry wrote: > something volatile,(alcohol,turpentine or such) will take > care of the wd40 residue(maybe). > I don't think it will make things worse.   Very bad idea. Contact cleaner is specifically formulated for the job and won't cause any harm to electronics. A friend used WD40 on some very expensive chemical instrumentation as "preventive maintenance" and the volatile solvents in it melted the shafts to the collars on the pots freezing them. So he had a service call the next day where he had to replace the pots he sprayed.   --   Rick C

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 01 09:15PM -0400 On 5/1/2017 8:09 PM, Phil Allison wrote: >> contacts?? Either that or it's bad for them.   > ** WD40 is excellent at making bad contacts good again.   > Switches, connectors and pots are all examples.   Until you use it on one where the plastic bits dissolve and melt together.   --   Rick C

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 01 06:26PM -0700 Prickman is a Liar wrote:     > > I don't think it will make things worse.   > Very bad idea.   ** Lie number 1.     > Contact cleaner is specifically formulated for the job     ** Lie number two.   Most so called "contact cleaners" are hopeless at fixing noisy switches and pots. The solvents use are too weak and evaporate so fast they do not do anything. Plus there is no residual oil to protect metal surfaces from corrosion.       > A friend used WD40 on some > very expensive chemical instrumentation ...   ** Why is it always a "friend" who has weird experience with WD40 and never the person posting ??   Cos the story is a complete fabrication.       ... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 01 06:31PM -0700 Prickman is a Liar wrote:     > > Switches, connectors and pots are all examples.   > Until you use it on one where the plastic bits dissolve and melt together.   ** Massive LIE !!   WD40 does not harm plastics used to make electronic or electrical components.   That is the oldest and STUPIDEST crock of shit trotted out by WD40 haters.   The Prickman is a parroting MORON.     .... Phil

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: May 02 04:48PM +1000 On 02/05/17 10:09, Phil Allison wrote:   > ** WD40 is excellent at making bad contacts good again. > Switches, connectors and pots are all examples. > .... Phil   I've been meaning to thank you for telling us that some months back.   In my Yamaha A-520 stereo amp, I've been putting up for several years now with a noisy/intermittent balance pot for several years. Only one channel working most of the time, and when you finally get both to work, one was significantly louder than the other. It looks like a big job to disassemble it enough to replace.   A quick squirt of WD-40 and it seems as good as new. I wouldn't have done it on anyone else's recommendation.   Clifford Heath.

Ian Jackson <ianREMOVETHISjackson@g3ohx.co.uk>: May 02 08:39AM +0100 In message <v6udnTMQQbl1JprEnZ2dnUU7-K-dnZ2d@giganews.com>, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> writes >preventing rust on tools.   >Everything else is hype.   >There are FAR better solvents out there than WD-40...and cheaper!   Cheaper than the old can you've had in the tool-shed for the last 20 years, but which has been your saviour on the odd occasion when you've suddenly needed a general-purpose lubricant / switch cleaner / rusty nut freer / corrosion inhibitor ?   -- Ian

Ian Jackson <ianREMOVETHISjackson@g3ohx.co.uk>: May 02 08:45AM +0100 In message <oe8m0u$n9s$2@dont-email.me>, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> writes >the volatile solvents in it melted the shafts to the collars on the >pots freezing them. So he had a service call the next day where he had >to replace the pots he sprayed.   While I'm sure that there have been occasions when a squirt of WD40 has dissolved everything in sight, I've been using it for decades, and I've never found it has ever caused any such damage. -- Ian

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 02 01:11AM -0700 Clifford Heath wrote: > It looks like a big job to disassemble it enough to replace.   > A quick squirt of WD-40 and it seems as good as new. > I wouldn't have done it on anyone else's recommendation.   ** Thanks or the vote of confidence.   Often, the effect of using a little WD40 is so quick and complete it seems almost magical.     .... Phil

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: May 02 08:22AM > WD-40 is not a lubricant. It will (temporarily) reconstitute some > lubricants under some conditions.   > Good luck with it, you could do worse.   It does not displace water unless it's the blast. It floats on water. PB Blaster displaces water.   Greg

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 02 04:16AM -0700 WD-40 is not designed to remove or protect against rust either. It is meant to *DISPLACE* dampness in the process of cleaning and protecting tools *with something else*.   Try the test.   WD-40 is neither voodoo, black magic nor a secret potion. It is a very simple compound designed for a few very basic purposes.   https://wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd482671453.pdf   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 02 04:19AM -0700 On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 8:18:04 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:   > ** Which is refined petrol, aka lighter fluid.   > ..... Phil   The MSDS for WD-40 is posted previously. Look up the numbers.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid>: May 02 12:43PM +0100 > WD-40 is not designed to remove or protect against rust either.   From the link you quoted: "Product Use: Lubricant, Penetrant, Drives Out Moisture, Removes and Protects Surfaces From Corrosion"   Why do you believe that "Removes and Protects Surfaces From Corrosion" does not include removing or protecting against rust? From the Wikipedia article on "Rust": "Rusting is the common term for corrosion of iron and its alloys".   . It is > meant to *DISPLACE* dampness in the process of cleaning and > protecting tools *with something else*.   > Try the test.   I have, many times. It just works.   > WD-40 is neither voodoo, black magic nor a secret potion. It is a > very simple compound designed for a few very basic purposes.   It is not a compound. A compound is a single entity . It is a mixture of compounds (including "non-hazardous ingredients", which appear to be, or include, sodium bisulfite). The actual amounts are given as ranges.     --   Jeff

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: May 02 01:06PM +0100 > Try the test.   > WD-40 is neither voodoo, black magic nor a secret potion. It is a very simple compound designed for a few very basic purposes.   > https://wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd482671453.pdf   It washes out the proper & better lubricants.   We have a sliding door that does get a bit stiff, so a while ago a regular spray of WD40 sorted it - until it got stuck again. Then another respray.   Now I've I fixed the respray issue more or less permanently with light machine oil. Actually another known household brand name, 3-in-1.   When it later needs a clean, I'll use WD40 - then back with the oil.   Because of the advertising, the non-technical "my tv is broke, must be the switch" tend to overuse the product on anything things that are not suited, I'm sure some here will have seen examples of overendevous application on deck mechanics and electronics.   -- Adrian C

ohger1s@gmail.com: May 02 06:38AM -0700 On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 9:31:55 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:   > .... Phil       As much as I hate to agree with Phil, I believe he's right.   I've learned about unintended solvent welding of plastics with all kinds of spray elixirs, and I've also learned to test each one on soft plastics so I have an idea of what kind of consequences (if any) to expect upon usage.   WD40 has never shown any tendency to soften or otherwise affect plastics that I'm aware of. Is there a strange plastic formula that WD might affect that I've never encountered? Possibly, but I've never seen it, at least not at the level that plastic controls might be constructed of.   Maybe the "friend's" controls weren't solvent welded at all, but bound by the original hardened lubricant that was dissolved and rehardened later after being flushed into the shaft.

rbowman <bowman@montana.com>: May 02 08:03AM -0600 On 05/02/2017 01:45 AM, Ian Jackson wrote: > dissolved everything in sight, I've been using it for decades, and I've > never found it has ever caused any such damage. > -   Not WD-40 but I found out that using Lock-Ease on a bicycle chain lock with plastic internal parts is a poor idea :) Even worse is having the chain wrapped around the bike and an immobile object at the time.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 02 11:03AM -0400 > I've learned about unintended solvent welding of plastics with all kinds of spray elixirs, and I've also learned to test each one on soft plastics so I have an idea of what kind of consequences (if any) to expect upon usage.   > WD40 has never shown any tendency to soften or otherwise affect plastics that I'm aware of. Is there a strange plastic formula that WD might affect that I've never encountered? Possibly, but I've never seen it, at least not at the level that plastic controls might be constructed of.   > Maybe the "friend's" controls weren't solvent welded at all, but bound by the original hardened lubricant that was dissolved and rehardened later after being flushed into the shaft.   This was laboratory equipment that had never seen any harsh treatment. Anything is possible I suppose, so maybe the controls weren't melted by the WD-40. But the fact remains that regardless of the exact details surrounding the problem, it was caused by the indiscriminate use of WD-40 where it does nothing to help.   So caution is advised when using WD-40 on electronics regardless of the details of how it mucks up the works.   --   Rick C

etpm@whidbey.com: May 02 08:58AM -0700 On Mon, 1 May 2017 15:50:09 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com> wrote:     >Don't take my word for it.   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA Peter, I discovered this residue after cleaning a machine well with solvent and then spraying wirth WD-40. There was left behind a hard coating on all the previously cleaned metal surfaces. I have since learned to use this to advantage when repairing an oil rubbed bronze finish that has been damamged by machining operations. After texturing and oxidizing the bright bronze machined surface I heat, then spray, then heat and then spray again with WD-40. This ends up being almost exactly a US-10 oil rubbed bronze finish and wears identically. Eric

Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid>: May 02 04:54PM +0100 On 02/05/17 13:06, Adrian Caspersz wrote:   > Now I've I fixed the respray issue more or less permanently with light > machine oil. Actually another known household brand name, 3-in-1.   http://www.concept2.co.uk/files/pdf/us/miscellaneous/MISC_MSDS_3-in-1-Oil.pdf   > When it later needs a clean, I'll use WD40 - then back with the oil.   The money all ends up at the same place!   --   Jeff

clare@snyder.on.ca: May 02 11:57AM -0400 On Tue, 2 May 2017 08:45:41 +0100, Ian Jackson   >While I'm sure that there have been occasions when a squirt of WD40 has >dissolved everything in sight, I've been using it for decades, and I've >never found it has ever caused any such damage. I can tell you one thing it is DEFINITELY no good for. I have EuroVynyl brand tilt turn side dlider windiws - made with Rehau vinyl extrusions. When cleaning the windows my wife drcided to lubricate the pivot blocks with WD-40.She then could not get the blocks to slide in the track. I ended up moving the top block far enough to pop the window sash out of the sliders, drive the block to the end, cut the top of the track and pry out the block. Luckily I had purchased a few sets of the lovot blocks and other parts fron the manufacturer when I bought the windowsn(I worked for the dealer) so I was able to replace the swollen blocks. No amount of soaking in alcohol or any othe substance was effective in returning the block to the proper size. No idea what kind of plastic it was- but it sure didn't like WD-40.   If using wd-40 to disolve hardened grease in a slide switch, ALWAYS finish the job with a contact cleaner to flush out the remains.   In automotive switches, like power window, door lock, headlight, etc, when I've had to dissassemble them and clean/polish contacts etc I re-assemble using a synthetic silicone based grease which won't harden.WD 40 can be an effective solvent for softeninf and removing the old "boogers" - . It can also be acceptable for "burnishing" plug-in connectors and keeping them from corroding - things like wiring harnes plugs - but the old TV Tuner dope works a lot better if you can still find it.

pecska@gmail.com: May 02 08:04AM -0700 Looking for a Sencore SG-165, dead or alive!

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 02 10:39AM -0500 > Looking for a Sencore SG-165, dead or alive!   <http://www.ebay.com/itm/302300059965>   And the manual for it: <http://bama.edebris.com/download/sencore/sg165/Sencore%20SG165%20O&M%20Manual.pdf>         -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

stratus46@yahoo.com: May 01 08:52PM -0700 On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 8:45:45 AM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com > Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com > Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558   It's not a diplexer but these guys claim it can be done without a rotator.   http://downloads.channelmaster.com/Sheets/JOINtenna+spec+sheet.pdf   I presume they know what they're doing.   G²

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 02 06:36AM -0700 >http://downloads.channelmaster.com/Sheets/JOINtenna+spec+sheet.pdf >I presume they know what they're doing. >G²   Amazing. From the specs, it looks like there's a simple passive splitter/combiner inside the box. $39 is quite a bit to pay for a $2 combiner.   When I tried the same thing, I ran into problems with antenna interaction as I previously described. It was easy enough to demonstrate the problem to the customer. I disconnected and terminated one port on the combiner. The picture quality dramatically improved. I repeated the exercise on the other port and had the same effect with stations on the other antenna.   I also ran into one installation that had three antennas (two UHF only, and one VHF/UHF). I again could demonstrate that it worked better with just one antenna at a time. However, the customer did not want to run additional coax cables to his TV, and I couldn't find an affordable 3 or 4 port remote antenna relay. So, I built one using magnetically latched relays. It didn't look very good at the high channels when swept, but the FCC saved me by auctioning off the 700MHz channels.   I suspect that a passive combiner might work if the two antennas were isolated from each other and positioned so that the antenna side lobes are not pointed in the direction of the "wrong" station. Looking at typical TV antenna patterns: <http://www.hdtvprimer.com/ANTENNAS/comparing.html> I think it could be done if the antennas were 90 degrees from each other.   Of course, you're welcome to verify my analysis and tests. It's easy enough to do with a $2 combiner. I would be interested in your results.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Taxed and Spent <nospamplease@nonospam.com>: May 02 07:01AM -0700 On 5/2/2017 6:36 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > Amazing. From the specs, it looks like there's a simple passive > splitter/combiner inside the box. $39 is quite a bit to pay for a $2 > combiner.   it includes a bandpass filter, although apparently Channel Master wants to keep that a secret!   from http://www.warrenelectronics.com/antennas/Jointennas.htm     The Channel Master JoinTenna is perfect for those situations when you need to add a second antenna to pick up a broadcast station in another direction but don't wish to use a single antenna and rotator. The JoinTenna blocks all frequencies but the one it is tuned for, eliminating the ghosting and reflection that can happen when you connect two antennas together.   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~   Note: There is significant attenuation on either side of the channel the JoinTenna is tuned for. We do not recommend using a JoinTenna if you are trying to receive a channel adjacent to your specified channel.

James Doyle <nc4fl@hotmail.com>: May 02 05:27AM -0700 need a ribbon cable for display board, wave radio AWR1-1W .. jim nc4fl@hotmail.com

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