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avagadro7@gmail.com: May 12 08:56AM -0700 > > Is wiring a Hella/Amazon switch to light power on to ground possible without using a relay ?   > What's the current rating of the switch, and the voltage & power of the lighting?   > NT   ahno, the switch has an LED lighting when the switch circuit routes power from supply to powered unit. Switch feeds power to ground and thru the LED.   my experience at NOT using a relay connected to the powered unit wire as the final activator...is negative. NOT using a relay but activating the powered unit does not light the LED. Wiring Lighting the LED does not power the unit.   there are schematics: goo.gl/1ZuTXR   reason I ask, possibly again, is I had a new wiring light the switch ( without a relay) .... but finding switch was activating a relay inside the powered unit.   leaving a mystery circuit.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 12 12:32PM -0400 > there are schematics: goo.gl/1ZuTXR   > reason I ask, possibly again, is I had a new wiring light the switch ( without a relay) .... but finding switch was activating a relay inside the powered unit.   > leaving a mystery circuit.   I believe the question is still, "how long is a piece of string?" Do you have any specs on the light unit? I assume it has three connections, ground, power and switch?   --   Rick C

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analogdial <analogdial@mail.com>: May 11 06:23PM N_Cook wrote:     >> Gareth.   > I mark ribbons and any reorientable screening and metalwork before > disconnecting, thats about it, why would I "sign" my "work"?   It happens:   Doctor Carved His Initials Into Patient, Lawsuit Says   http://www.nytimes.com/2000/01/22/nyregion/doctor-carved-his-initials-into-patient-lawsuit-says.html

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: May 11 10:12PM +0100 "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message news:of105e$jbe$1@dont-email.me...   >> Gareth.   > I mark ribbons and any reorientable screening and metalwork before > disconnecting, thats about it, why would I "sign" my "work"?   I found that signing and dating my repairs made it difficult for customers to present entirely different items as returns.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 11 05:52PM -0700 Ian Field wrote:   ----------------   > I found that signing and dating my repairs made it difficult for customers > to present entirely different items as returns.   ** Recording serial numbers is the usual precaution against that one.   Plus recent repair work is generally visible.       .... Phil

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 11 08:05PM -0500 On 5/11/2017 7:52 PM, Phil Allison wrote: > Plus recent repair work is generally visible.   If it's done right, it shouldn't be.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 11 07:31PM -0700 Foxs Mercantile wrote:   -----------------------   Phil Allison wrote:   ** Plus recent repair work is generally visible.   > If it's done right, it shouldn't be.   ** I've only come across this piece of asinine garbage once before - and the guy who said it was a total idiot.   Electronics repairs are NOT "invisible mending".   It is a GOOD thing if repairs are visible, cos when you come across them then you know what was done.   Trying to make them invisible is 100% ABSRUD.     .... Phil

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 11 09:18PM -0700 On 2017/05/11 7:31 PM, Phil Allison wrote:   > Trying to make them invisible is 100% ABSRUD.   > ..... Phil   I think what the PP meant was you clean up the solder flux, etc.   One group of folks that might want repairs to be 'invisible' are the collectors of ancient radio gear. They often want to hide replacement capacitors in the original package. I can understand that, and will do it if any customers asked (and charge for the extra time) but hasn't happened so far. Then again if I was restoring my 1920's battery powered RCA Radiola (w/WD11 tubes) I would likely hide the modern caps that way too...   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 11 09:27PM -0700 John Robertson wrote:   > I think what the PP meant was you clean up the solder flux, etc.   ** Does not make repairs invisible - merely tidy.     BTW; PP = previous poster is a new one to me.     > One group of folks that might want repairs to be 'invisible' are the > collectors of ancient radio gear. They often want to hide replacement > capacitors in the original package.   ** That is restoration work - not repairs.   Repairers are free to use substitute components and generic types in lieu of the originals. To make an electronic repairs on consumer or most professional electronic invisible would take an extraordinary effort and result in unacceptable cost.   For no good purpose.     .... Phil

Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: May 12 08:20AM -0500 On Thu, 11 May 2017 21:18:28 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:   >RCA Radiola (w/WD11 tubes) I would likely hide the modern caps that way >too...   >John :-#)#   John,   I had a 2 tube Crosley radio in 1970 that used WD11s with a tip. I couldn't find one back then. Noticed they are available now for $225.00.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

ohger1s@gmail.com: May 12 06:49AM -0700 On Friday, May 12, 2017 at 12:28:00 AM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote: To make an electronic repairs on consumer or most professional electronic invisible would take an extraordinary effort and result in unacceptable cost.   > For no good purpose.   > .... Phil   Well I guess it all comes down to what the definition of "invisible" is (and I'll not ask Bill Clinton..).   Most of my work is surface mount work, and other than the area of rework looking cleaner than the rest, my work is nearly imperceptible, but not on purpose.   I use a lot of flux installing a flat pack IC to insure excellent solder flow out and I always clean the area thoroughly with a fiber brush and acetone. Yes, the cleaning makes the repair mostly invisible but it allows me to eye-loupe the repair looking for any solder bridges, unsoldered connections, or questionable connections, and it takes seconds to accomplish.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 12 09:00AM -0500 On 5/11/2017 9:31 PM, Phil Allison wrote:   >> If it's done right, it shouldn't be.   > ** I've only come across this piece of asinine garbage once > before - and the guy who said it was a total idiot.   Taking a cue from the master of invective, "Hey Phil, I hope you get bone cancer and die."   I've seen too many previous repairs with broken terminals or tube socket pins, burnt wiring harnesses bad soldering and other completely crap examples of workmanship.   Or on newer stuff, lifted pads and burn marks on PC boards and excess flux and solder blobs.   Like the Hippocratic Oath, "Do no harm." There's no excuse for leaving a trail of destruction in the wake of a repair.               -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 12 07:41AM -0700 On Friday, 12 May 2017 15:00:41 UTC+1, Foxs Mercantile wrote: > and excess flux and solder blobs.   > Like the Hippocratic Oath, "Do no harm." There's no excuse for > leaving a trail of destruction in the wake of a repair.   There is... when what was there was a pile of charcoal. Then destruction is good.     NT

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 11 09:24PM -0700 On 2017/05/11 1:17 AM, gregz wrote:   > I never had a problem using WD40 on anything, except pots would need more > at some point. Just does not last as a lube.   > Greg   Um, why do you think WD-40 is anything but a rust preventative? The rest is simply marketing hype.   Much like you can lubricate anything with H2O if you want to, but there are better products DESIGNED for lubrication, etc.   The fact that WD-40 CAN lubricate, doesn't mean it SHOULD. it wasn't designed for that purpose and so is third or fourth choice at best.   Emergency usage, sure, then clean it off as soon as you can, unles syou don't want the item to rust. Use it on something that I care about working reliably, never.   After all - that is why we have brains, so we can think about what we are doing and apply the best solution.   John :-#(#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: May 12 07:49AM > After all - that is why we have brains, so we can think about what we are > doing and apply the best solution.   > John :-#(#   I think an oil based and mineral spirits based product used like WD40, as well as Caig Deoxit, will stay on the item to be cleaned longer. Longer cleaning, better. You can always wash off later with non residue cleaner. In fact, one of the best cleaners Cramolin Contaclean, says to wash off after cleaning. There are a number of products for electronics that have a base carrier and a type of oil, might seem unfair to pick on WD40. Plenty of non residue cleaners or electronics. The CRC 2-26 somewhat similar to WD40, says right on can, improves electrical properties, plastic safe. I'm not seeing much difference in ingredients. There are far fewer only lubricants, Caig Faderlube being one.   Greg

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: May 11 02:57PM -0400

ohger1s@gmail.com: May 11 01:43PM -0700 On Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 2:57:18 PM UTC-4, Michael Black wrote:   > But the real issue is that apparently that's what Mark is using, so > "running on Windows" would seem to be a necessary matter here.   > Michael   Guys, again, what is the advantage of using a dedicated news reader as opposed to just using Google groups? I'm not being adversarial as I don't have a clue what a dedicated news reader program does or why it's better.   This is what I see when I access through Google:   https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!topic/sci.electronics.repair/aRIH3Zpvuts   New posts show up as soon as they're posted and my postings are updated immediately as well.

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