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"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: May 12 06:47PM +0100 "Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message news:0402dda5-23f5-411d-89a3-13b754a3aa43@googlegroups.com... >> to present entirely different items as returns.   > ** Recording serial numbers is the usual precaution against that one.   > Plus recent repair work is generally visible.   Recent repair work could've been done elsewhere - warranty repairs for items someone else fucked up is the oldest trick in the book.   Taking the back off and look if I signed and dated it is *MUCH* easier than searching through a notebook of longer than phone number serial numbers.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 12 02:06PM -0700 On 2017/05/12 10:47 AM, Ian Field wrote:   > Taking the back off and look if I signed and dated it is *MUCH* easier > than searching through a notebook of longer than phone number serial > numbers.   We have a sticker we put on our customers' boards - it has the shop name, URL, and work order number (that # is added by pen along with quantity of boards 1/x, 2/x...x/x).   The sticker serves two purposes - helps us track board repairs when/if it comes back or customer has trouble, and it is advertising for the shop - that pays off big time as people buy and sell games all over the place and I keep getting notes from folks saying something like "I saw your sticker on a game I just bought - do you service or sell XYZ?"   John ;-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: May 12 10:15PM +0100 "John Robertson" <spam@flippers.com> wrote in message news:8JmdnQ-1f5pdvovEnZ2dnUU7-fHNnZ2d@giganews.com... > that pays off big time as people buy and sell games all over the place and > I keep getting notes from folks saying something like "I saw your sticker > on a game I just bought - do you service or sell XYZ?"   As far as possible, I avoided dealing with Joe public.   My customers were small local businesses and recommendations kept me busy enough.   Some of them turned up with a van load at a time.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 12 04:23PM -0700 ohg...@gmail.com wrote:   -----------------------   > > For no good purpose.   > > .... Phil   > Well I guess it all comes down to what the definition of "invisible"     ** Wot a pedanict prick.     > Most of my work is surface mount work,   ** Really - that must be really boring.   You do realise how rare it is for repairers to do SMD work ?       ...... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 12 04:30PM -0700 The Texas Ranger wrote: ----------------------- > > before - and the guy who said it was a total idiot.   > Taking a cue from the master of invective, > "Hey Phil, I hope you get bone cancer and die."   ** You are one giant asshole - aren't you ?   > I've seen too many previous repairs with broken terminals or > tube socket pins, burnt wiring harnesses bad soldering and > other completely crap examples of workmanship.   ** Completely off the subject.   That the best you got, Tex ???       > Like the Hippocratic Oath, "Do no harm." There's no excuse for > leaving a trail of destruction in the wake of a repair.   ** Got SFA to do with making repairs invisible.   Go back to you ham radio Tex.     .... Phil

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: May 12 05:28PM -0700 > You do realise how rare it is for repairers to do SMD work ?   > ...... Phil   I don't think too rare. Much of my repair work is SMD components.   Your not going to find too many through-hole components in professional video cameras these days...   The same goes for high end touring gear as well. While there are "standard" components, much is SMD these days.   Dan

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 12 05:51PM -0700 > I don't think too rare.   ** It is very rare.     > Much of my repair work is SMD components.   > Your not going to find too many through-hole components in professional > video cameras these days...   ** Not the point.   Faulty SMD boards are replaced, not repaired, cos the latter is normally too expensive or impossible to do.     > The same goes for high end touring gear as well.     ** Could you be more ambiguous?   You obviously work in a very special area and with lots of help from manufacturers.   In the real world, the manufacturer is in China and supplies no help at all.       .... Phil

ohger1s@gmail.com: May 12 06:46PM -0700 On Friday, May 12, 2017 at 8:51:25 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote: > dansabr...@yahoo.com wrote:     > ** Not the point.   > Faulty SMD boards are replaced, not repaired, cos the latter is normally too expensive or impossible to do.   You do what you have to do to live Phil. A lot of the boards I work on are for consumer level TV, and with the price erosion of the last few years, I can't afford to pay more for a board than a customer is willing to spend in total for a repair. I can replace an AS15F gamma IC on an LCD TCON board in 10 minutes tops, and you'd have to look *very* carefully to see that it was replaced. I buy them 50 at a shot out of China for less than 0.50 each.   There are some boards that defy repair and those need to be replaced, but they are usually a break even deal at best, so we do whatever we can to avoid replacements.     > In the real world, the manufacturer is in China and supplies no help at all. > .... Phil     True. No schematics, no .bin files, no help. But we adapt by utilizing the datasheets for the ICs on the boards. Fortunately, manufacturers no longer deface ICs and/or put house numbers on them, so using the "typical" circuit topology provided by the chip maker goes a long way in replacing the missing schematic.   Every main board that has a 25 series eeprom gets the .bin file removed, read, and stored on my computer (and backed up to half a dozen flash drives). A lot of main boards just have corrupted firmware, and I can pull an eeprom, reprogram it, and get it back on the board in 10 minutes.   I love getting guitar amps in because the guys want them back right away and don't care a lot about cost. It's nice to work on parts that I don't need to wear opti-visors to repair.   I do the occasional "antique" tube radio because it's a lot of fun to bring these old timers back to life.

"Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: May 12 02:47PM -0700 it's the fall change back that bothers me, not the summer one, but now it doesn't matter because 5:30 PM doesn't mean what it used to. "Home from work and it's dark".

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 12 06:01PM -0700 Ron D:   So you don't like Standard time, when 12pm corresponds with noon. Ok, well see about getting up earlier, and if your job offers an earlier shift, like 8-4 or something. I am the only person in America I know who wouldn't mind 4:30 sunrises where I live, in June! I would actually be up at that time, doing errands around the house. I'm normally in bed by 8 anyway, which it actually is right now - even though the clocks all say 9pm. ;)

tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 12 10:14AM -0700 > there are schematics: goo.gl/1ZuTXR   > reason I ask, possibly again, is I had a new wiring light the switch ( without a relay) .... but finding switch was activating a relay inside the powered unit.   > leaving a mystery circuit.   If you recover the ability to communicate your circuit, I daresay I could then help.     NT

avagadro7@gmail.com: May 12 02:34PM -0700 IF circuits are wired as follows http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?q=EZ+Turn+Signal+Switch+mounting+hardware+LED+Dash+   the LED does not light.   But if wired like this   http://www.xtremelandy.co.uk/Manuals%20folder/Equipment/Simple%20Relay%20Wiring%20Diagram%20(JPEG).jpg   the circuit works with power to unit and lit LED   I do not know why a second unit cannot go between LED and grnd with a dummy load unit to grnd in power to unit as the center take off prong …thus skipping the relay. For an alternative example …. As the posted question asks   near 9/10 circuits I wired are direct connection to Batt with wire gauges supplied by Powerstreams calculator. But there are places without space or necessity that could be wired without a relay n without loss of voltage.   http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm   there are extra LED on the shelf but that's more complication.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 12 02:58PM -0700 > near 9/10 circuits I wired are direct connection to Batt with wire gauges supplied by Powerstreams calculator. But there are places without space or necessity that could be wired without a relay n without loss of voltage.   > http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm   > there are extra LED on the shelf but that's more complication.   Relays are used when the switch can't take the current, or could but not reliably.     NT

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 12 07:04PM -0400 > But if wired like this   > http://www.xtremelandy.co.uk/Manuals%20folder/Equipment/Simple%20Relay%20Wiring%20Diagram%20(JPEG).jpg   > the circuit works with power to unit and lit LED   There is a missing wire in this schematic. The switch needs two wires. To light an LED internal to the switch requires both power and ground in addition to the switched output. In other words, the switch will be wired the same. The only difference is the switch controls the relay and the relay controls the lights.   If the LED does not light without the relay, either it is not wired correctly or turning on the lights draws too much power and there is a large voltage drop across the switch.   This is not rocket science. It either works or something isn't right. If you wire the switch up without the relay and then disconnect the lights, will the LED come on then?     > dummy load unit to grnd in power to unit as the center take off prong > …thus skipping the relay. For an alternative example …. As the > posted question asks   I don't know what you mean by "the posted question". The original post was not intelligible.   I also don't completely understand this question. Where exactly in the drawing do you mean "between LED and grnd"? Do you mean in the connection between the switch and ground, in series? I believe that leg is providing ground for the LED. It would not be suitable for connecting a load as the LED drops some voltage. If you mean connecting a load between the switched terminal and ground, then yes, that would be fine as long as the load doesn't draw more current than the switch is rated for.       --   Rick C

tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 12 04:12PM -0700 On Saturday, 13 May 2017 00:04:38 UTC+1, rickman wrote: > > without loss of voltage.   > > http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm   > > there are extra LED on the shelf but that's more complication.   I rather suspect trolling.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 12 07:51PM -0400 >>> http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm   >>> there are extra LED on the shelf but that's more complication.   > I rather suspect trolling.   I don't. I think it is someone who just isn't so good at writing what he is thinking. Not everyone is so good with words. I have a friend who can build nearly anything out of metal. But don't ask him to write down any of his thinking.   --   Rick C

tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 12 04:59PM -0700 On Saturday, 13 May 2017 00:51:37 UTC+1, rickman wrote: > he is thinking. Not everyone is so good with words. I have a friend > who can build nearly anything out of metal. But don't ask him to write > down any of his thinking.   I doubt it, but who knows.     NT

avagadro7@gmail.com: May 12 05:32PM -0700 hmm. I expected a quick expert answer.   There are: google images UTUBE, and finding a resistor fir the power to unit middle prong.   Relay use allows 8/10 GA wire from batt to the either control area in Milan or to near the powered unit area...thus reduceing voltage drop.   Aux lights on my van's roof with long wire runs receive near 13V.   The LED is integral.

Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@koi8.net>: May 12 09:33PM > This is what I see when I access through Google:   > https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!topic/sci.electronics.repair/aRIH3Zpvuts   > New posts show up as soon as they're posted and my postings are updated immediately as well.   Google sucks big time. Not just that is it evil, not just one must be stupid to trust them (some even store all their documents with them), but have you ever read something written in any language but English from Google? E.g. russian language groups are epic failure, screwed up beyond repair...   Then does anybody here remember Vera Lynn^W^Weh, eg. AOL Virtual Cities or whatever it's been called back then? Never ever put all eggs in the same basket. The power of Usenet is that nobody owns it, there is no management who could shut it down, nobody to sue, no single location and so on. Usenet is _NOT_ a business so it can't go belly up or decide to pump up their profits by axing those parts that don't bring enough revenue not even mentioning those not bringing any revenue at all with absolutely no prospect of improving in foreseable future...   --- ****************************************************************** * KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. * * Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. * ******************************************************************

ggherold@gmail.com: May 12 10:07AM -0700 > My wife and I both drink coffee black, which is why I believe we're particularly sensitive to overly heated coffee.   > BTW, the best coffee I've ever had is coffee that's reconstituted from a cold brew concentrate in a coffee machine. I've had this several times in several fine restaurants, and it's amazing - enough so that the first time I had it I had to corner the manager and ask how they "brewed" it. Strong and complex flavors without a hint of bitterness or any defects such as aftertaste. Why this hasn't become a hit in the consumer end is beyond me.   > BEST COFFEE EVER   So it's warmed up after cold brewing? I could handle that, make a big pot and leave it in the frig for days. (As is I often dump 1/3 of the pot down the sink.) I'll go read about cold brewing.   George H.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 12 02:08PM -0400 > So it's warmed up after cold brewing? I could handle that, make a big pot > and leave it in the frig for days. (As is I often dump 1/3 of the pot down > the sink.) I'll go read about cold brewing.   You can chill hot brewed coffee too. What kills it is sitting on the heat. Just turn off the burner once it is brewed and warm a cup at a time in the microwave. It's not perfectly like fresh brewed, but it doesn't get ruined.   Cold brewing is a whole different thing that produces much better coffee to start with. I've never seen a way to do it that produces as much coffee from the same amount of beans though. I remember a college roommate who would put a percolator on the stove boiling furiously and take a shower. The whole house would reek of the smell of burnt coffee. He was using it solely for the drug content without regard to taste.   --   Rick C

ohger1s@gmail.com: May 12 11:29AM -0700 > and leave it in the frig for days. (As is I often dump 1/3 of the pot down > the sink.) I'll go read about cold brewing.   > George H.   The way it was explained to me is that the machine was analogous to getting Coke from a fountain dispenser. The coffee machine was preloaded with the concentrated mix, and when the button was pushed, the machine would mix the concentrate with boiling water and dispense it into the cup. Sort of like a Keurig in operation but with no disposable cups.   Never had a cup of coffee so tasty and smooth.

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): May 12 11:38AM -0700 In article <7656aebb-c4de-4bf4-8330-faa8b809a807@googlegroups.com>,   >So it's warmed up after cold brewing? I could handle that, make a big pot >and leave it in the frig for days. (As is I often dump 1/3 of the pot down >the sink.) I'll go read about cold brewing.   You make up the cold-brew in concentrated form... steep the ground beans in cold water for a while, then filter. You can store the filtered concentrate in the 'fridge for quite a while in a sealed container. It might even freeze OK - I'm not sure.   To consume it, you dilute 1 part of the concentrate with several parts of hot water. Balance the ratio, and the temperature to which you pre-heat the hot water, to get the strength and temperature that you prefer.   I don't think there's any need to microwave, stove-heat, or otherwise warm the concentrate at all (and risk scorching it).

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: May 12 12:33PM -0700 On Friday, May 12, 2017 at 2:08:59 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote: > Cold brewing is a whole different thing that produces much better coffee > to start with. I've never seen a way to do it that produces as much > coffee from the same amount of beans though.   I'd never heard of cold brew until this thread. I made some yesterday. I was surprised at how much the beans soak up, you're definitely right about the amount it makes. I used 4 cups water, thought I'd get 4 cups back, not even close.   The internet is all over the place on recipe ratios, mostly because people confuse weight and volume. Near as I can tell, a good ratio is about 1 coffee to 4 water by volume, or 1 coffee to 8 water by weight. (Or mass. Please let's not go there.)   My family buys a lot of expensive iced coffee, maybe this will save some money.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 12 04:07PM -0400 On 5/12/2017 3:33 PM, Tim R wrote: > people confuse weight and volume. Near as I can tell, a good ratio > is about 1 coffee to 4 water by volume, or 1 coffee to 8 water by > weight. (Or mass. Please let's not go there.)   I wouldn't worry about the ratios for brewing. Brew it strong and dilute to taste.   You need to let the beans soak overnight to get a proper brew. A friend who showed me this used a pound of coffee in a special container and covered the grounds. Into the fridge overnight. The next day the plug was removed from the bottom and a large felt filter let the coffee liqueur was drained into a carafe along with some washing of the grounds. Pour some into a coffee cup and dilute to taste. It didn't make as much as hot brewing, but was soooo good.   The large felt filter made a world of difference. Using the Melita paper filters is terrible because they quickly clog stopping the filtering.     > My family buys a lot of expensive iced coffee, maybe this will save > some money.   Once she froze the liqueur in ice cube trays so that a cube would make a cup of coffee. Then it would keep indefinitely. I think that would be great for iced coffee.   --   Rick C

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