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Clifford Heath <clifford.heath@gmail.com>: May 13 09:15PM +1000 On 13/05/17 04:08, rickman wrote: > You can chill hot brewed coffee too. What kills it is sitting on the > heat.   Not entirely true. Sitting it on the heat mostly spoils the taste by burning oily resins that don't get extracted in a cold brew.   > Cold brewing is a whole different thing that produces much better coffee > to start with.   Yes. And it reheats better too.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 13 10:50AM -0400 On 5/13/2017 7:15 AM, Clifford Heath wrote: >> heat.   > Not entirely true. Sitting it on the heat mostly spoils the taste > by burning oily resins that don't get extracted in a cold brew.   What does that have to do with anything? Those components are only a problem when overheated. In fact, some people don't care for cold brewed coffee because it loses some of the taste they are used to. They *like* the taste of hot brewed coffee when fresh. Cold brewed coffee tastes almost like chocolate to me... not that I mind that... :)   I tried cold brewing a batch here where my water is from a well and full of various things. It didn't turn out so well. I guess I could use bottled water. The water isn't an issue with hot brewing.     >> Cold brewing is a whole different thing that produces much better coffee >> to start with.   > Yes. And it reheats better too.   If you say so.   --   Rick C

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: May 13 08:59AM -0700 We did taste tests today.   Drinking it black, cold brew was clearly better.   But none of us drink it black. My family adds huge amounts of creamer, and I put a tablespoon each of butter and coconut oil in every cup.   One advantage of concentrate is not having to wash the pot daily.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 13 12:27PM -0400 On 5/13/2017 11:59 AM, Tim R wrote:   > Drinking it black, cold brew was clearly better.   > But none of us drink it black. My family adds huge amounts of creamer, and I put a tablespoon each of butter and coconut oil in every cup.   > One advantage of concentrate is not having to wash the pot daily.   I think you should be locked away for your own good. :-P   --   Rick C

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: May 13 12:33PM -0400 On 05/13/2017 12:27 PM, rickman wrote: >> every cup.   >> One advantage of concentrate is not having to wash the pot daily.   > I think you should be locked away for your own good. :-P   It's called "bulletproof coffee", probably because you need a bulletproof stomach. ;)   Popular with the keto diet crowd.   Cheers   Phil Hobbs   -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics   160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: May 13 05:22PM +0100 Bought new 2 years ago, now died totally. Date? 2007 on the pcb overlays but Schuko mainland Europe mains plug with a 2014 moulding date. Firstly that line-plug set in an "clamshell" adaptor for the UK , with L & N swapped over, sprung brass earth used for "earth bond" continuity . A break in the intended neutral wire somewhere, I originally suspected a dodgey adaptor. I have removed the cable and break is not at the so-called "strain relief" grommet. I'll hack into the cable , to find&inspect the break before replacing the cable, anyone seen the likes? PbF soldering to the "euro" plug pins or tin-pest "tinning" failure ? No obvious overheating of the pins in the adaptor or casing or cable sleeve.   The internal 20mm 10 amp fuse & holder surprisingly looked healthy considering the yokes of the holder were only just making contact. Is it asking too much for 20mm format to carry 10 amps reliably?

"None" <none@nospam.org>: May 13 09:04AM -0400 < theckkkmaah @ retard . shortbus . edu > took a steaming dump> > So you don't like Standard time, <FLUUUUUUSH>   Theckhhhmah, you retarded dumbfuck! You're one of usenet's village idiots, and you just cannot stop flogging the rotted corpse of your DST hobbyhorse (that's DST; look it up if you have to). But it's dead. It's bleeding demised.   Maybe you can get a grownup to adjust your clocks twice a year, if you're just too stupid to do it yourself. You keep telling people when they should wake up and when they should go to sleep. Maybe you should just worry about your own pathetic life, and stop being so fucking lazy. Nobody wants to live their lives according to some retarded schedule dreamed up by a microcephalic dumbfuck like you. Just live on TDT (Theckmahhh Dumbfuck Time), that's fine, as long as you're ready and wearing your hockey helmet when the short bus comes to take you to your job at the hire-the-retard used crap store.   SFH, LB, FCKWAFA AOCADFR. RLB? LB???

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 12 07:38PM -0700 ohg...@gmail.com wrote:   -----------------------     > > In the real world, the manufacturer is in China and supplies no > > help at all.   > True. No schematics, no .bin files, no help.     ** And crucially no spare ICs are sold, only whole PCBs.   What YOU claim YOU sometimes do is unheard of in this country.   Cos it is completely uneconomic.       .... Phil

jurb6006@gmail.com: May 12 09:31PM -0700 >"Taking the back off and look if I signed and dated it is *MUCH* easier than searching through a notebook of longer than phone number serial numbers. "   Even better, put the last four digits of the SN on the receipt which they must bring in to get warranty service. In some cases it is on a sticker, in which case you can etch it into something inside the cabinet.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 12 10:18PM -0700 On 2017/05/12 2:15 PM, Ian Field wrote: >> the place and I keep getting notes from folks saying something like "I >> saw your sticker on a game I just bought - do you service or sell XYZ?"   > As far as possible, I avoided dealing with Joe public.   Different market. My shop fixes coin operated amusement machines, hourly rate is good, and people appreciate us as we are one ot he few professional shops around that deals with these games.     > My customers were small local businesses and recommendations kept me > busy enough.   Other than our customers are mostly private we seem to get a lot of referrals.     > Some of them turned up with a van load at a time.   We keep a wait list (285 folks on the list = bigger shop needed, so moving this week and next, and have to hire more people) - too many jobs!   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: May 13 05:15AM -0700 > You do realise how rare it is for repairers to do SMD work ?   > ...... Phil   I don't think too rare. Much of my repair work is SMD components.   Your not going to find too many through-hole components in professional video cameras these days...   The same goes for high end touring gear as well. While there are "standard" components, much is SMD these days.   Dan

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 12 10:21PM -0700 On 2017/05/12 12:49 AM, gregz wrote: > not seeing much difference in ingredients. There are far fewer only > lubricants, Caig Faderlube being one.   > Greg   I just hate dealing with customers machines after they use WD-40 as a 'lubricant'. In all cases, after a few years, the gear systems are frozen with some sort of glue like substance that take soaking in mineral spirits/paint thinner overnight to soften enough to take apart.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 12 10:36PM -0700 John Robertson wrote:   ----------------------- > 'lubricant'. In all cases, after a few years, the gear systems are > frozen with some sort of glue like substance that take soaking in > mineral spirits/paint thinner overnight to soften enough to take apart.   ** Or another squirt of WD-40 will dissolve in seconds.     ..... Phil

Ian Jackson <ianREMOVETHISjackson@g3ohx.co.uk>: May 13 08:07AM +0100 In message <2e3af282-b420-4229-885e-d10fcc372ef6@googlegroups.com>, Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> writes >> frozen with some sort of glue like substance that take soaking in >> mineral spirits/paint thinner overnight to soften enough to take apart.   >** Or another squirt of WD-40 will dissolve in seconds.   Indeed. WD40 never sets 'hard'.. -- Ian

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 13 02:18AM -0700 Ian Jackson wrote:   -------------------     > >** Or another squirt of WD-40 will dissolve in seconds.   > Indeed. WD40 never sets 'hard'.. > --   ** The certainly ARE oils and greases that can turn into glue.   Anecdote:   I bought one of the very first CD players available for purchase in Australia ( Sony CDP101 ) in May of 1983.   I still have it and it works perfectly.   But after about 15 years, the drawer mechanism became VERY slow and eventually would not allow a CD to be played. The reason was the white grease applied to all the nylon gears had turned into brown glue.   I found that some WD-40 instantly softened the grease and operation returned to normal - but not for that long. After another couple of years the same problem returned.   So I bit the bullet, pulled the mechanism apart and cleaned all the nylon parts thoroughly - in WD-40. Then re-lubed with Valvoline "X-All Grease", a product intended mainly for marine use.   No problem since.     .... Phil

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: May 12 11:56PM -0700 On Thu, 11 May 2017, Sergey Kubushyn wrote:     >>> tin :) The best ever and totally free.   >> But does it run on Windows?   > What is Windows?   Software on an adjustable animated screen.

oldschool@tubes.com: May 12 11:17PM -0400 I have an AIWA turntable, model PX-E850U.   It needs a stylus. On the label, it says "Replacement Stylus AN-11".   I'm sure I can locate a replacement stylus, but how the heck does it come off? This has me very puzzled.   The good turntables I had over the years always had a removable head, and the cartridge was held in place with tiny screws.   I see no way to remove this head, and there are no screws for the cartridge. I know some of the stylus had a plastic piece that slid into the cartridge. This looks like it might work that way, but it did not pull off using light pressure. I know better than to force things, until I know exactly how to remove it.   To make matters worse, I cant lift the tone arm more than an inch or so, so I cant really get a good look under it.   Anyone know how to remove this stylus?   Thanks

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: May 13 03:07PM +1000 > so I cant really get a good look under it.   > Anyone know how to remove this stylus?   > Thanks   **Easy-peasy. The cartridge fitted is a standard Audio Technica type. You will probably find a you-tube instructions somewhere, but the stylus does not pull out like most. It kinda pivots at the rear and 'clicks' into place at the front. You just need to pull down on the stylus and it will come out easily.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 12 10:32PM -0700 Trevor Wilson wrote:   ---------------------     > **Easy-peasy. The cartridge fitted is a standard Audio Technica type.   ** Variable reluctance rather than MM ?   My first magnetic PU was an AT66, "induced magnet" type.   Bought it at Mike Sheridan's old store in Redfern in 1972.   http://www.thestyluslady.co.uk/ekmps/shops/thestyluslady/images/cartridge-and-stylus-audio-technica-at-66-at66-1545-p.jpg       .... Phil

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: May 13 04:45PM +1000 On 13/05/2017 3:32 PM, Phil Allison wrote:   > .... Phil   **Most AT MM carts have two teeny tiny magnets in a 'V' formation. I've seen a few induced magnet types from a variety of manufacturers over the years. I think Nagaoka still make a few. Dunno if AT still do them. I doubt it.   http://www.nagaoka.eu/index.php?item=nagaoka-cartridges&action=page&group_id=10&lang=en     -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

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