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"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 25 11:59AM -0700 After all the discussions here and the occasional praise for Kroil here and elsewhere, I went to their website and purchased their Introductory Package.   I just received it from Kroil this afternoon. I will be testing it later today on some quite-vintage bolts on my wife's Volvo. If it is the Miracle-Formula as-promised, I will be quite pleased.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: May 25 06:08PM -0400 In article <4c646ffa-236d-4dd8-9564-b25c71bd354a@googlegroups.com>, pfjw@aol.com says...   > I just received it from Kroil this afternoon. I will be testing it later today on some quite-vintage bolts on my wife's Volvo. If it is the Miracle-Formula as-promised, I will be quite pleased.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Just give it overnight to soak in. May work sooner on some things. When working I used about a can a month or more, sometimes a can a day dpending on the jobs. Just glad the company I worked for was buying it.   This was a very large plant and I bet we used over a case a week when the company was going full blast.

ohger1s@gmail.com: May 26 04:48AM -0700 > I just received it from Kroil this afternoon. I will be testing it later today on some quite-vintage bolts on my wife's Volvo. If it is the Miracle-Formula as-promised, I will be quite pleased.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA       A machinist friend of mine swears by Kroil, to the point of derision by others when the subject comes up. Many years ago, one of my buddies drilled out a steel plate and welded in like 8 bolts to it. We buried it in his back yard near the wetlands part of his lot and planned to dig it up in two years and use it as fairly well controlled test bed for various elixirs. Unfortunately, he moved and we forgot to dig it back up.   Most evidence I've found on the subject is anecdotal. Without a control there's no way of knowing if one of these solutions would have worked better or worse than any other.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 26 04:56AM -0700 On Thursday, May 25, 2017 at 6:08:53 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote: > dpending on the jobs. Just glad the company I worked for was buying it.   > This was a very large plant and I bet we used over a case a week when > the company was going full blast.   I am no great believer in miracles and/or instant gratification. Overnight is good enough for me (and you are the second with this advice). stripped heads are no fun at all.   I am doing the fuel pressure sensor on a Volvo XC70, one (1) torx bolt. Also the MAF sensor, but that is a plastic part held in with hose clamps. No biggie.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

ggherold@gmail.com: May 26 06:29AM -0700 > I just received it from Kroil this afternoon. I will be testing it later today on some quite-vintage bolts on my wife's Volvo. If it is the Miracle-Formula as-promised, I will be quite pleased.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   I got a jelly jar full of Kroil from a neighbor. It seems to be better than other stuff.. but it's always hard to tell. I've never tried the 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.   George H.

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: May 25 07:09PM -0500 > A lot of people do their own diagnosing or follow someone's (alleged) success on youtube and always assume their TV has the same issue. What happens is they buy the wrong board, or the TV doesn't need a board at all if the display itself is bad or has an open LED in the display or a wiring issue inside.   > Recent Samsungs are known for LED failures. It would not surprise me if you don't get a return request on one or both of those boards. My dad always told me not to count my chickens before they're hatched.   > Good luck.   This was an LCD TV for what that's worth. One board was bought by a TV shop, the other by an individual. And count my chickens, I already gave the money away. Saw this young women on Youtube and was inspired so much I made a donation.   > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKhf_XarJmE   She has about 40 videos of her travels.   If you find her story inspiring send her some cash.   Mikek

ohger1s@gmail.com: May 26 04:48AM -0700 On Thursday, May 25, 2017 at 8:10:01 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:   > > Good luck.   > This was an LCD TV for what that's worth. One board was bought by a TV > shop, the other by an individual.     Selling to TV shops is the best way to sell boards, but even they sometimes make a guess. Paypal is notorious at siding with the buyer on just a complaint, reasonable or otherwise.   Yes, your TV was an LCD, but other than the extraordinarily rare OLED, most TVs are LCD. The first LCD TVs were simply called LCD as opposed to the other flat screen tech at the time: plasma.   These TVs used CCFL tubes for back light illumination as LCDs are shutters and don't generate any light (unlike plasma and CRT).   Later, when manufacturers found a cheaper way to build back lights, they started using LED arrays to provide the back light for the LCD panel. These TVs are generally called LED, but they are still LCD TVs and use the same screen.   In the service trade, we refer to earlier LCDs as CCFLs and later ones as LED TVs.   The point of this is although you didn't post a model number, that model looks like an LED LCD, not a CCFL LCD. If it is an LED back lit TV, LED failure is common and when an LED opens, there are various symptoms, most of which duplicate bad power supply or bad main boards.

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 26 05:34AM -0700 Foxs Mercantile wrote: "You're an amazingly ignorant fuck. "     Uuuuhm.. Have we learned where name-calling got Hillary Clinton last year? That phrase "basketful of deplorables" ring any bells?

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: May 26 08:02AM -0500 >> This was an LCD TV for what that's worth. One board was bought by a TV >> shop, the other by an individual.   > Selling to TV shops is the best way to sell boards, but even they sometimes make a guess. Paypal is notorious at siding with the buyer on just a complaint, reasonable or otherwise.     I think the TV shop just made a low ball offer, if it is accepted he can stock it.     > Yes, your TV was an LCD, but other than the extraordinarily rare OLED, most TVs are LCD.   Just correcting the LED label from the previous post.   The first LCD TVs were simply called LCD as opposed to the other flat screen tech at the time: plasma.   > Later, when manufacturers found a cheaper way to build back lights, they started using LED arrays to provide the back light for the LCD panel. These TVs are generally called LED, but they are still LCD TVs and use the same screen.   > In the service trade, we refer to earlier LCDs as CCFLs and later ones as LED TVs.   > The point of this is although you didn't post a model number, that model looks like an LED LCD, not a CCFL LCD.   It had 14 CCFL tubes running across the back panel of the TV. I also have the inverter PCB for sale, but at the end of a month I will probably dispose of it.     > If it is an LED back lit TV, LED failure is common and when an LED opens, there are various symptoms, most of which duplicate bad power supply or bad main boards. No backlight LEDs to fail. Mikek

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 26 06:17AM -0700 amdx:   A BIG contributor to backlight failure is the setting for it! Most people do not go into the menus for these flat panels, and just watch it in default settings - typically 'Vivid' or Dynamic mode.   I calibrated my LED set last year, starting with the backlight lowered to halfway. Final setting was 8/20, using Samsung's scale. It is still plenty bright for viewing where the TV is in my house, looks awesome at night, and neither myself nor anyone else watching it has complained of eye fatigue.   Moral of the story: Unless the TV is intended for use outdoors on sunny days, or on the sun deck of a cruise ship(!), there is no reason whatsoever to leave that backlight at its maximum setting. This is akin to leaving the Contrast setting on an old tube TV cranked up all the way. Which is why so many of those hit the dump prematurely.

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 26 06:20AM -0700 amdx:   A BIG contributor to backlight failure is the setting for it! Most people do not go into the menus for these flat panels, and just watch it in default settings - typically 'Vivid' or Dynamic mode.   I calibrated my LED set last year, starting with the backlight lowered to halfway. Final setting was 8/20, using Samsung's scale. It is still plenty bright for viewing where the TV is in my house, looks awesome at night, and neither myself nor anyone else watching it has complained of eye fatigue.   Moral of the story: Unless the TV is intended for use outdoors on sunny days, or on the sun deck of a cruise ship(!), there is no reason whatsoever to leave that backlight at its maximum setting. This is akin to leaving the Contrast setting on an old tube TV cranked up all the way. Which is why so many of those hit the dump prematurely.

"Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: May 25 05:10PM -0700 Maybe 30 years ago, I replaced my cables with custom lengths with a solid core Soldered with a decent grip.   Now you have RG6 and RG59 compression RCA's which don't look like a bad alternative for non-flexible stuff.   https://www.circuitspecialists.com/search.html?searchQuery=RCA+plugs

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: May 26 09:28AM +0200 Choose some gold plated ones.

oldschool@tubes.com: May 25 03:44PM -0400 On Wed, 24 May 2017 16:44:38 -0500, "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net> wrote:     >https://www.manualslib.com/brand/radio-shack/ seems to have a fairly large >assortment of manuals for all sorts of RS stuff.   >Dave M   That does seem to have a lot of them, but I can only view them page by page. To download them, they require a CAPCHA. If I said what I think about capchas, I'd be banned from the newsgroup for using foul language. If I can even read the f**king things, they do not work on my slow dialup system, nor do they work on my cellphone. I'd like to shoot every one of the sons of a b***hes who use them idiotic things. They serve no purpose whatsoever.

oldschool@tubes.com: May 25 03:49PM -0400 On Wed, 24 May 2017 17:38:07 -0500, "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net> wrote:     >> Dave M   >Yet another at http://www.manualsdir.com/brands/radio-shack.html   >Dave M   Doing a little research on my own, I ran across this site. http://www.repeater-builder.com/radio-shack/radio-shack-index.html   It has info and schematics for a lot of the RadioShack Ham gear, including scanners, weather radios, test equipment and more. They do NOT encourage other R.S. consumer electronics (I wish they would), but it's a decent site, even if it's a bit disorganized.   Best of all, no f**king Capchas......

"Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>: May 25 07:39PM -0500 > NOT encourage other R.S. consumer electronics (I wish they would), > but it's a decent site, even if it's a bit disorganized.   > Best of all, no f**king Capchas......   Why don't you contact the owners of those sites and see if they would be amenable to allowing you to set up a mirror of their manual collections? That would go a long way toward insuring that the manuals would survive for a reasonably long time (maybe outliving the site owners).   Dave M

jurb6006@gmail.com: May 25 09:37PM -0700 >"If I said what I think about capchas, I'd be banned from the newsgroup for using foul language. "   You can't be banned. Go ahead and cut loose.

oldschool@tubes.com: May 25 03:30PM -0400 On Thu, 25 May 2017 09:10:07 -0400, bitrex >each.   >Also bought up all their TO-3 power transistors (2N3055 etc.) for around >30 cents each   The store I went to, all the small parts in the bins were $1. No matter what it was. But there were little left.   I got Three 12V and One 24V power transformers for just over $2 each. That was at 80% off, but the packages on them showed they were OLD stock, thus old prices. I first grabbed one of each off the shelf, but for that price, I decided to take all four. That's a steal.

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