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N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: May 08 04:10PM +0100 On 08/05/2017 14:59, J.B. Wood wrote:   >> Mark Z.   > Hello. I use Mozilla Thunderbird both as an e-mail client and for > usenet. Works fine for both IMHO. Sincerely,   ditto on mozilla and eternal-september for posting to usenet

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: May 08 04:19PM +0100 On Mon, 8 May 2017 06:38:19 -0700 (PDT), Mark Zacharias   >I retired last fall and this computer does not support my old Windoze Mail news reader. Can someone suggest a good free reader? I understand Free Agent is no longer "free".   I paid $19 for Agent for news and email. It's worth it. There is still a free for three months version.   >For the moment I'm slumming it with Google Groups.   I gave up GG after a short trial as I couldn't work out how to use more than one server or get threading to work.   Steve   -- Neural Network Software for Windows http://www.npsnn.com

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 08 11:41AM -0400 On 5/8/2017 9:59 AM, J.B. Wood wrote:   >> Mark Z.   > Hello. I use Mozilla Thunderbird both as an e-mail client and for > usenet. Works fine for both IMHO. Sincerely,   T-bird has it's issues. If you don't periodically prune old messages below some number T-bird gets cranky and just plain goes away for sometimes long periods. It also doesn't properly implement many of the features you might like for reading newsgroups. But it will do the job and it is free as in beer. I guess it's free in other ways as well not that it helps a lot.   --   Rick C

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 08 11:11AM -0500 On 5/8/2017 8:59 AM, J.B. Wood wrote: > I use Mozilla Thunderbird both as an e-mail client and > for usenet. Works fine for both IMHO.   I use Thunderbird as well, along with AIOE new server. Both are free. <https://www.mozilla.org/en-US/thunderbird/> <http://news.aioe.org/>   And yes, as mentioned, you have to periodically delete expired articles.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

"J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: May 08 12:26PM -0400 On 05/08/2017 11:41 AM, rickman wrote: > features you might like for reading newsgroups. But it will do the job > and it is free as in beer. I guess it's free in other ways as well not > that it helps a lot.   Hello, and I've run 32-bit T-Bird versions on Linux and Windows for a number of years now and have never seen the issue you describe. When an nntp news server no longer has the posts available they don't show up on the client subscribed lists either. Other than using "mark as read" I've never had to do any pruning. Sincerely,   -- J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com

ohger1s@gmail.com: May 08 09:28AM -0700 On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 9:38:22 AM UTC-4, Mark Zacharias wrote: > I retired last fall and this computer does not support my old Windoze Mail news reader. Can someone suggest a good free reader? I understand Free Agent is no longer "free".   > For the moment I'm slumming it with Google Groups.   > Mark Z.   Is there (and this is a serious question) any reason not to access the groups through Google? Maybe it's because I don't know what I'm missing, but the pages load immediately, new posts are updated almost as fast, it's free, and apparently my posts are getting through because Phil picks on me now and again!!   What, if any, features or benefits will I gain by using a dedicated newsreader?

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 08 07:47AM -0700 On Mon, 8 May 2017 10:00:00 -0400, Ralph Mowery >can get them on ebay for about $ 10 and up. Most have laser pointers on >them, but for close in work the laser does not point to exectally the >heat source.   There are other things to look for. There are two common viewing angles. 8:1 and 12:1. That means at 8 inches distance, the spot size is 1 inch. There's usually a chart on the side of the thermometer showing the spot size at various distances. You can see a smaller spot, at a longer distance with 12:1. Although the only real difference is calibration and the lens, prices on 12:1 are much higher than the more common 8:1. There are also some pocket IR thermometers with 6:1, which I consider almost useless.   The problem with using these to troubleshoot electronics is that there's no way you can isolate a fairly small component with a large spot size. You end up measuring the temperature of everything around it. If you're looking for a hot component, you'll do better with a cheap thermistor probe into a DVM. It does work well for large components, like power transistors, heat sinks, xformers, big electrolytics, etc. I just used mine to isolate the area on the case of an overheating ASUS RT-N66U. Works well on the large case area.   Also, watch out for the operating temperature range. I like to use mine for cooking, measuring soldering iron tip temp, automobile engine temp, exhaust manifold temp, and wood burner temp.   I bought 3 of these a few weeks ago after my Sears IR thermometer self destructed. <http://www.ebay.com/itm/222404502261> The picture shows the backlighting display changing from green-blue-red with setpoints. This is NOT included in the model 981C but is a feature of the 981D, which seems to be unavailable.   Like all such cheap devices, the laser pointer is misaligned. One thing I like about it is that it does NOT have a rubberized paint coating on the handle, and will therefore not self destruct like the Sears version, where the rubberized paint turned to sticky goo.   When not measuring temperature, it's also useful for playing with the cat, who likes to chase the red dot.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: May 08 04:07PM +0100 > This sounds like something that might be real handy for electronics > work. Have any of you ever used them in this manner? If you have, are > they worth the price to buy them for use on electronics?   I use a basic one often enough to require bypassing the button cells and wiring out to an external bigger battery

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 08 11:33AM -0400 > This sounds like something that might be real handy for electronics > work. Have any of you ever used them in this manner? If you have, are > they worth the price to buy them for use on electronics?   I bought one for under $25 shipped and I've seen them cheaper. How cheap does it need to be to pick up one?   I've used it for any number of things including measuring the temperature of the sky which can be so low the unit doesn't read a number at all. Now that's cold!   --   Rick C

ohger1s@gmail.com: May 08 08:36AM -0700 On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:47:44 AM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: but is a feature of the 981D, which seems to be unavailable. > thing I like about it is that it does NOT have a rubberized paint > coating on the handle, and will therefore not self destruct like the > Sears version, where the rubberized paint turned to sticky goo.   Being ordinarily cheap, I nonetheless tend to buy quality tools (I hate to spend money, but I hate having to spend twice even more). I use a Raytek Raynger ST, and according to it's label, it was built in 2000. I can't believe I've owned this that long. It's a 12:1 and it does have some sort of rubberized grip, but it's still pliable with no sign of returning to it's original chemical state.   I use this often and never had a problem with it. If it ever dies, I'll get another Raytek assuming it's still made somewhere other than China (this one is U.S. made).   One thing a lot of people don't realize is that these work great, but won't work on reflective surfaces.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 08 11:46AM -0400 > Being ordinarily cheap, I nonetheless tend to buy quality tools (I hate to spend money, but I hate having to spend twice even more). I use a Raytek Raynger ST, and according to it's label, it was built in 2000. I can't believe I've owned this that long. It's a 12:1 and it does have some sort of rubberized grip, but it's still pliable with no sign of returning to it's original chemical state.   > I use this often and never had a problem with it. If it ever dies, I'll get another Raytek assuming it's still made somewhere other than China (this one is U.S. made).   > One thing a lot of people don't realize is that these work great, but won't work on reflective surfaces.   It's not just reflective surfaces. The calibration of these things depends on the emissivity of the object being measured. Metallic surfaces are so low that they won't work at all, in fact, they reflect IR from the environment and so appear to read a valid number when they are just mimicking the environment. Other surfaces will read a lower temperature than accurate because their emissivity is lower than the unit is calibrated for.   I can put mine up to my ear canal and read 96 °F.   --   Rick C

graham01949@gmail.com: May 08 07:51AM -0700 Hi   I have a Hameg HM-408 scope that uses extended shafts to go from the front panel to the switch / pots mounted inboard on the PCBs. These shafts are 2mm dia and the switches / pots are 4mm dia and are connected via flexible couplings.   Five of these couplings have failed and so I'm looking for suitable replacement couplings that will connect to the 2mm shaft on the control knob and onto the 4mm shaft from the pots / switches.   Can any point me in the direction of possible replacement units?

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: May 08 04:02PM +0100 > I have a Hameg HM-408 scope that uses extended shafts to go from the front panel to the switch / pots mounted inboard on the PCBs. These shafts are 2mm dia and the switches / pots are 4mm dia and are connected via flexible couplings.   > Five of these couplings have failed and so I'm looking for suitable replacement couplings that will connect to the 2mm shaft on the control knob and onto the 4mm shaft from the pots / switches.   > Can any point me in the direction of possible replacement units?   Do they have to be flexible because they pass through an "S" shaped path through screening etc? My first thought is fine nylon cable wrap, somehow stiffened up with something as a core.

etpm@whidbey.com: May 08 08:43AM -0700 >I have a Hameg HM-408 scope that uses extended shafts to go from the front panel to the switch / pots mounted inboard on the PCBs. These shafts are 2mm dia and the switches / pots are 4mm dia and are connected via flexible couplings.   >Five of these couplings have failed and so I'm looking for suitable replacement couplings that will connect to the 2mm shaft on the control knob and onto the 4mm shaft from the pots / switches.   >Can any point me in the direction of possible replacement units? McMaster-Carr. But maybe only available in the States and I don't know where you are. Eric

avagadro7@gmail.com: May 08 08:11AM -0700 > the 17501E has a step by step disassembly manual online from England.   > Your unit may be online back 10 pages or pursued in Google Images.   > buy the correct screwdriver size.   http://www.homedepot.com/b/Search/N-5yc1vZbx4w/Ntk-Extended/Ntt-bed+bug?Ntx=mode+matchpartialmax&NCNI-5   find one evaps to insecticide gas

tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 08 08:38AM -0700 On Monday, 8 May 2017 15:15:28 UTC+1, tabby wrote:   > > when I pass by that area I'll look n post the brand.   > > PLACE UNIT IN LEAKPROOF CONTAINER ADD ALL INSECTICIDE HOUSINGS. SEAL. COME BACK 2 WEEKS.   > a tealight candle makes a pretty good oxygenless gas emitter.   Vapona strip type things also work, they give off insecticide whiff for months. Toxicity to different species varies according to the chemical. Organophosphates like dichlorvos are very effective.     NT

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 07 04:09PM -0400 On 5/1/2017 11:45 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > other frequencies in this range get cancelled. The result is a very > rocky and erratic frequency response which makes an ugly mess of the > signal. Bad idea.   Phase issues are easy to deal with. Co-locate the antennas so the signals are in phase and use the same length of cable between each antenna and the combiner. Now all frequencies are always in phase. A short run to the mast mounted amp and you are done.       --   Rick C

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