sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 02 04:40PM -0700 On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 08:38:22 -0400, JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com> wrote:     >Qservice supply ops & service as a download for 10 bucks, worth it? up >to you.   >http://www.qservice.tv/vpasp/shopexd.asp?id=433   More of the same...   Punch 1501 into search box: <http://artekmanuals.com/manuals/tektronix-manuals/> $10 for both operating and service manuals with schematics.   The real service manual on eBay with schematics: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tektronix-1501-TDR-Service-Manual-w-schematics-11-72-/300960370603> $19 + $4 shipping.   More the same on eBay: <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=tektronix+1501+manual>   Image search for the manual: <https://www.google.com/search?q=tektronix+1501+manual&tbm=isch>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Jun 02 05:47PM -0700 On 6/2/2017 4:40 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=tektronix+1501+manual>   > Image search for the manual: > <https://www.google.com/search?q=tektronix+1501+manual&tbm=isch>   Thanks, but the original request was for a FREE manual. $10 just about killed the urge to fix it.   I had a mole in the TEK factory service department, but she retired last week...bummer.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 03 09:37AM -0700 >> <https://www.google.com/search?q=tektronix+1501+manual&tbm=isch>   >Thanks, but the original request was for a FREE manual. >$10 just about killed the urge to fix it.   You have a very low threshold of pain. I couldn't find one that was free. Incidentally, if you're looking for such free downloads, try this search pattern with Google: <https://www.google.com/search?q=filetype:pdf+tektronix+1501> and you'll find only PDF's. If you want just a schematic, I like to sift through the images such as: <https://www.google.com/search?&tbm=isch&q=tektronix+1501+schematic> However, there was no relevant schematic among the junk it produced. Sorry, but unless someone finds a schematic, you'll just have to pay the price or do without.   You might want to try asking in one of the Tektronix specific forums or groups. This one is specifically for obtaining old documentation: <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/TekScopArc/info> More: <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/search?query=tektronix>   >I had a mole in the TEK factory service department, but she >retired last week...bummer.   Well, she probably still has friends and connections inside Tektronix. Ask her to ask one of them for help.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Jun 02 06:50PM -0400 I have one of these on my bench that I'm repairing:   <https://www.globalmediapro.com/att/a/0/1/a/a01aq8/lbx.jpg>   Currently the only problem is a weak left channel when the "Warmth" knob is increased. When the "Warmth" control (VR200, bottom left of the schematic) for that channel is fully counterclockwise signal passes fine, however when it's brought up the channel goes almost completely dead, and the meter barely deflects.   <http://imgur.com/a/JMosx>   I've traced the problem down to the circuitry associated with R4 and that tube section; with no signal applied the DC voltage across the anode resistors of all tubes sit at approximately half the 48V supply; however with the bad channel's "Warmth" control is brought up the average DC voltage across R4 collapses to around 200mV, while the others remain about the same.   In hopes of a quick fix I replaced the cathode bypass capacitor C38 and coupling capacitor C77, but no change in the symptoms. Tried several different sets of tubes and also no change. Suggestions?

"megamusic" <nema@nema.nema>: Jun 03 03:09AM +0200 "bitrex" <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in message news:9ZlYA.60527$Lf4.14846@fx02.iad...   > In hopes of a quick fix I replaced the cathode bypass capacitor C38 and > coupling capacitor C77, but no change in the symptoms. Tried several > different sets of tubes and also no change. Suggestions?   Check R8, R224, C142 and ic2.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 02 06:36PM -0700 bitrex wrote:   ----------------       > In hopes of a quick fix I replaced the cathode bypass capacitor C38 and > coupling capacitor C77, but no change in the symptoms. Tried several > different sets of tubes and also no change. Suggestions?   ** Use your scope FFS.   The halves of each 12AX7 are driven in reverse phase and the plate outputs fed to a differential stage. With sine wave input, the waveforms on each plate should be similar amplitude with one inverted.   If your post is correct this is not the case with your unit.   Suspect a dud section in one of the op-amps.     ..... Phil

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Jun 02 11:39PM -0400 On 06/02/2017 09:36 PM, Phil Allison wrote:   > If your post is correct this is not the case with your unit.   > Suspect a dud section in one of the op-amps.   > ..... Phil   Better schematic image:   <http://imgur.com/a/5RtGH>   Here's what the scope shows: VR28A and VR28B are ganged. With VR28 all the way counterclockwise, there is similar but inverted waveforms at the anode connections of R4 and R6. As VR28 is rotate clockwise, the signal at R4 anode decreases while the signal at R6 anode connection increases.   That's the channel that appears to be working OK. There's almost no signal at all on the anode connections of the other channel, for any position of VR27A/B, and the channel goes quiet as the pot is rotated clockwise.   There's normal-looking signal at pin 8 of both IC1C and IC2C for each channel, the op-amp phase inverter, though.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 02 08:52PM -0700 On Saturday, June 3, 2017 at 1:39:48 PM UTC+10, bitrex wrote: > clockwise.   > There's normal-looking signal at pin 8 of both IC1C and IC2C for each > channel, the op-amp phase inverter, though.     ** You have made a start and you story has changed.   You need to scope the X7 tube grids in the bad channel.   Plus recheck all DC voltages too.     .... Phil

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jun 03 08:09AM +0100 On 02/06/2017 23:50, bitrex wrote:   > In hopes of a quick fix I replaced the cathode bypass capacitor C38 and > coupling capacitor C77, but no change in the symptoms. Tried several > different sets of tubes and also no change. Suggestions?   I recently came across a pot problem , not seen before, Alps or Alpha , one of the main makers. Pot track DVM_R checked out fine. Not been abused or distorted but manufacturing tolerances problem presumably, the rear grounded screen/casing was touching outer part of the active track at one point. Radial tolerance of the track meeting radial tolerance of the casing? +/- tolerances.

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Jun 03 10:10AM -0400 On 06/03/2017 03:09 AM, N_Cook wrote: > rear grounded screen/casing was touching outer part of the active track > at one point. Radial tolerance of the track meeting radial tolerance of > the casing? +/- tolerances.   Thanks for the reply. Yep, a shorted ganged pot in the grid circuit could definitely explain the symptoms - as Phil mentioned I need to check all the grid voltages on the bad channel at quiescence and with signal applied.   Signal coming into the junction of R206 and C141 looks good, signal coming out of IC1C pin 8 also looks good, so it seems really the only options for where the problem lies are with the 100n coupling capacitors, the pot, or shorted pins on the tube socket.

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Jun 03 10:21AM -0400 On 06/02/2017 11:52 PM, Phil Allison wrote:   > You need to scope the X7 tube grids in the bad channel.   > Plus recheck all DC voltages too.   > .... Phil   First thing I need to make sure of is that I understand how the circuit is _supposed_ to function so I understand what should be considered "normal" operation. It seems that the channel associated with R4 _is_ the one that's functioning properly; as the "Warmth" control is increased from its fully counterclockwise position the AC signal across R4 decreases (this is what I was seeing with my meter) while the signal across R6 increases. The panel meter begins deflecting to the right in response to signal.   The overall level of the signal doesn't change, however, it just becomes well..."warmer." With a 12AX7 tube the additional harmonic content is quite noticeable at full clockwise rotation and IMO doesn't sound that good. With a NOS 12AT7 in the socket it's more subtle and (also IMO) more appropriate for an EQ/exciter.   It seems the control is converting the operation from differential to single-ended, but I'm not sure exactly how the circuitry associated with IC2A and IC19B is accomplishing this.   There are also two trimmer pots on the board associated with the tube section VR29 and VR30.

"Newgene McMensa" <newgene.mcmensaREMOVE@gREMOVEmail.com>: Jun 02 05:16PM -0700 Hello, eletro fans.... Yes, I know this ain't a Yahoo group. But, and this is a big butt, you guys know a whole lot more than those who post cryptic stuff at the computer groups. Any help steering me in the right direction would be appreciated!   Newgene (formerly Old Snuffy)   Anyone know a reliable way to do move about a few thousand emails from Yahoo to my desktop? I searched a lot the last few days and these are what I thought were the best so far, but none of the worked.   I am glad to pay up to $25 for a program that does the job. Have not found anything with good reviews that works so far.   =================== ** Method #1 (Not working for me. Procedure is evidently missing some info.)   From http://www.tomsguide.com/forum/all.html?refine=bulk+export+yahoo+email   You can access your Yahoo! Mail from another email client or your mobile device using IMAP. Use these settings when configuring IMAP:   Incoming Server: imap.mail.yahoo.com Outgoing Server: smtp.mail.yahoo.com Incoming Port: 993 with SSL Outgoing Port: 465 with SSL or port 587 with SSL/TLS -It is necessary to enable SSL or TLS for Outgoing SMTP port. Username: full email address (for example, free2rhyme@yahoo.com) Password: the password you use to sign in to your Yahoo! Account   Since you cannot export directly from yahoo to providers like gmail you can enter this information into Microsoft Outlook to retrieve your e-mails to avoid agreeing to the new upgrade and still be able to retrieve your mail.   =================== ** Method #2 (Didn't work either)   https://www.labnol.org/internet/email/move-mails-across-email-accounts/8419/   I have many emails with significant documents in my Yahoo account, so I want to export Yahoo Mail to Outlook PST file instantly.   Is there any easy solution? Please help me...     > You can do it in the easy way. Configure your yahoo email on Outlook as POP3, after that you can create a PST file and save all the info that your need in the PST created.     thank you everyone for helping me.....   1. Fill Your Account Details:   . Account type - POP3 . Incoming Mail Server (POP3) - pop.mail.yahoo.com . Outgoing Mail Server (SMTP) - smtp.mail.yahoo.com   On the Advanced tab:   . Incoming Server POP3: 995 . Outgoing Server (SMTP): 465   =================== ** Method #3 (Installed trial version. To use, it requires user name and password. When downloading, there was no where to enter password. And they did not send any emails with password....)   https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/20140825061342-223899587-how-to-save-yahoo-emails-to-external-hard-drive   For large number of Yahoo account emails, you need to create backup using third party software like Yahoo Backup tool which is capable to create backup of Yahoo emails. The backup will be created as an email file like PST, EML, MBOX or MSG which can be opened and accessed just like an Yahoo email using the respective email client. External solution available like these can be really an effective solution to save Yahoo emails to external hard drive.   How To Backup Emails from Yahoo Mail Account to Hard Drive   Step 1. Download, Install & Launch Yahoo Backup software and fill credential of user account. Step 2. Choose any one e-mail format: EML, PST, MSG or MBOX. Step 3. Then click on "Browser" button to choose the preferred location where you to save email data & click on "Start" button to initiate the email download process. Step 4. Once all email data are downloaded in local system, software will show a confirmation message "Download completed successfully". Then Click on "OK" button.   Source: http://www.yahoo.gmailbackup.org/

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jun 03 04:58AM -0700 The Troll is back, please do not feed the troll.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Jun 02 02:32PM -0700 On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 8:05:49 AM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:   > Put a gun to your head and pull the trigger.   > That will fuck you.   Ah, thanks for that clarification Mr. Charm.   BTW, there is one *sure* way of improving the quality of CD sound: give it a light spray of WD40....

"Daniel Mandic" <daniel_mandic@hotmail.com>: Jun 02 10:15PM > BTW, there is one sure way of improving the quality of CD sound: give > it a light spray of WD40....   The CDP-101 fullfills Phil Allison's reception of music-reproduction... What's so hard to understand with this?   I would have to hear that CDP-101, to say something critical about it.... don't you. Have you heard it? Maybe it sounds better than many multibit etc. variations by many brands which came out later?! Though, I don't think it can cope with later (selected.... though) players from Sony.     -- Daniel Mandic

ohger1s@gmail.com: Jun 02 08:03PM -0700 On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 6:15:56 PM UTC-4, Daniel Mandic wrote: > players from Sony.   > -- > Daniel Mandic   Don't overthink this Daniel. Phil has a long history of polluting newsgroups all over the web with his pigheaded single minded thought process (like his love of WD40). He's a hateful, vile, cowardly, foul mouthed internet bully. If you don't agree with him, he will wish a painful cancer death on you. When I first ran across his posts, they were so outrageous I thought he was being comically ironic (and perhaps he is and getting a big laugh out of this). If someone should ask a dumb question, he will berate their intelligence and suggest they kill themselves to relieve their burden of ignorance.   Phil thinks CDs have no flaws, and I happen to disagree with him. Any other person who disagrees would simply say so and state their case. But Phil is a true nut job, and since he won't meet anyone face to face and repeat those same words that he does on the web (coward), it's sort of fun to just rile him up and disagree with him now and again.   Getting back to the subject, when I was younger, I knew CDs offered several big advantages (that I pointed out in my first post), but instead of taking a leap forward beyond a mechanical system of grooved vinyl and various mechanical needle/cartridge schemes, they took a small step backwards in fidelity. That a digital format cannot quite equal an archaic electro-mechanical analogue system is telling. Phil can't or refuses to hear this, and that's fine. The fact is is that my hearing has diminished to the point where I'm happy even with MP3s nowadays.   I'm sure his CDP-101 sounds just as good as my Pioneer CD player and maybe even better, but my point was about the CD format in general, not the CDP-101 in particular.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 02 08:27PM -0700 ohg...@gmail.com is a vile TROLL:   ------------------------------       > > Daniel Mandic     ** BEWARE: Daniel is a drive by, trolling fuckwit.   > Don't overthink this Daniel.   **Daniel is incapable of actual thought.     > Phil has a long history of polluting newsgroups all over the web     ** You are just begging for it - pal.     > He's a hateful, vile, cowardly, foul mouthed internet bully.     ** When it comes to lying, fuckwit TROLLS like you - that is correct.   No tactic to shut them up or eliminate them is too harsh.       > If you don't agree with him, he will wish a painful cancer death on you.   ** Wrong.   It when you post deliberate LIES in contradiction to well known or already posted truth.   This NG is not to be reduced to a chat room for mental retards like YOU. -------------------------------------------------------------------------       > Phil thinks CDs have no flaws, and I happen to disagree with him.     ** Which alone brands you a grade A lunatic and posturing trouble maker.     > Any other person who disagrees would simply say so and state their case.   ** WRONG: this NG is not a "chat room" for retards.   Those who post their ignorant opinions as FACT have to JUSTIFY them.   None ever can.     > Getting back to the subject,     ** You have no idea what the subject is.   Get off this NG - you ridiculous, geriatric narcissist.     ..... Phil

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Jun 03 01:40AM -0700 ohg...@gmail.com:     Redbook CD just adequately covers the human range of hearing. The point is that its 'safety margin' beyond the audible spectrum is rather thin, especially above 15kHz. Another contributor to the 'graininess' some people heard, on early CDs, is early ADCs and DACs. Quantization noise was much higher than, from both finished CD and from the players themselves.     Yet another factor was in production: Before the late '80s, most of recording, mixing, and mastering was done at 16/44.1. As explained in Xyph and other papers, that source of grain or noise was mitigated by moving to 24/ 92 or higher in production, then dithering down to deliverable - 16/44.1.     With better conversion since the 1990s, and higher production resolution, a huge source of graininess has been eliminated, and CD now lives up to its full potential, if only certain loudness production practices would cease(!)

"None" <none@nospam.org>: Jun 03 06:59AM -0400 < thekma @ shortbus.dumbuck.edu > puked in message news:671c9d83-d855-4ab5-a8e6-a52c55967df7@googlegroups.com...   > ... its 'safety margin' beyond the audible spectrum is rather thin, > especially above 15kHz.   It's always good for a laugh when Theckma the brain-damaged village retard pretends that he know what he's talking about.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 03 04:32AM -0700 thekma...@gmail.com wrote:   -----------------------   > Redbook CD just adequately covers the human > range of hearing.   ** It way more than adequately covers it.     You know nothing, bullshitting fuckwit.     This NG is not a "chat room "       > The point is that its 'safety > margin' beyond the audible spectrum is rather > thin, especially above 15kHz.   ** Hardly likely to be below - fuckwit.       > Another contributor to the 'graininess' some people heard,     ** Was the poor source material in NON digital CDs.       > Yet another factor was in production: Before > the late '80s, most of recording, mixing, and > mastering was done at 16/44.1.   ** Nope - most of it was at higher sampling and bit rates.   BUT sweet fuck all was pure digital, it was mostly fucking tape based SHIT.   FYI:     Checked you far arse lately ???   Got any idea where that foul SMOKE is coming from ??           ...... Phil

oldschool@tubes.com: Jun 02 11:45PM -0400 I got one of those all in one printers, scanners, etc. It's a HP model C4480.   It plugs into the USB on a computer. Looks similar to a cellphone cord, but the printer end is considerably larger.   The USB end is just a strandard USB plug. The end by the printer is a squarish type of plug, probably a little more than 1/4" (both ways).   I'm asking because this used printer did not come with a cable, just the power wall-wart cord. So, I need to get a cord on ebay or somewhere.   I dont know if these come in different configurations and sizes or if they are pretty standard.   I'm pretty limited to buying the cord online, so I cant just take the printer to a computer store and tell them to find me a cord that fits.   Is there a name for this kind of plug? It would be easier to buy one if I had a name for it.   Thanks

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Jun 03 01:13AM -0400 > printer to a computer store and tell them to find me a cord that fits.   > Is there a name for this kind of plug? It would be easier to buy one if > I had a name for it.   Does the connector look anything like this?   http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USB-DATA-Cable-Cord-Printer-for-HP-Photosmart-C4390-C4450-C4480-C4740-C4750-/281592190551?hash=item419033d657:g:ZAIAAOSwYGFU0~FW   --   Rick C

stratus46@yahoo.com: Jun 02 10:21PM -0700 > Is there a name for this kind of plug? It would be easier to buy one if > I had a name for it.   > Thanks   The flat connector is USB A and the square is USB B https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB   You can get a 10 foot cable for less than $3 (including shipping) on eBay.   G²

"Paul Hovnanian P.E." <paul@hovnanian.com>: Jun 02 05:36PM -0700 I have several of these. 60 and 90 Watt laptop type power bricks that are 'programmed' to a certain output voltage and current limit by replacable tips. I've also got a slug of tips for each (plus some tha appear to go to different versions of these supplies which I don't have).   Both product lines appear to be discontinued by their respective manufacturers and no longer provide support. But tips are still available for different devices... if you know what to search for.   Does anyone have charts of tip numbers vs laptop models? Or even tip numbers vs output voltage and connector dimensions that they might have rescued before iGo and Targus discontinued their lines.   Also, just for hacking purposes, has anyone reverse engineered the tip internals (usually just a couple of resistors that the supply 'reads' through the cord to set up output parameters). One could conceivably hack together tips for new devices if one knew how to progam the supply. Voltage is easy to figure. Overcurrent is a bit trickier.     -- Paul Hovnanian mailto:Paul@Hovnanian.com ------------------------------------------------------------------ All wiyht. Rho sritched mg kegtops awound?

MOP CAP <email@domain.com>: Jun 02 03:08PM -0700 As the ad says "Kroil It. "Don't Spoil It". CP

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.