sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

GattoNero <miao@miao.it>: Jul 20 12:49AM +0200 Hi to all, I'm Diego. I'm an electronic technician, but I had never repaired a welder before now ... Normally I design things, not repairing them... but... This welder is arrived to me as a gift from a friend. Of course that it have some problem and my friend told me that he had just contacted the service for a repair, but they told him that this model is to old , and there is no more spare parts.... so... more fun for me ;-P   No one that have a schema? Many components on the primary board are missing...(smd components) on most of them there is some burning traces..... A part to check all of the mosfets/igbt , the display board seem to be ok... So how to proced? Ah...maybe can help I know the basics of TIG welding (I learned home with my friend)   Many thanks to all, and of course sorry for my horrible english... Bye Diego

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 20 08:55AM +0100 On 19/07/2017 23:49, GattoNero wrote:   > Many thanks to all, and of course sorry for my horrible english... > Bye > Diego   A clear close-up photo , placed in wwwland, would help, assuming the blown off components are just minor components . Anyone else placed an image out there somewhere? A board from a "spares or repair" sale on ebay , assuming different problem, may be the only chance.

GattoNero <miao@miao.it>: Jul 20 06:35PM +0200 > Anyone else placed an image out there somewhere? > A board from a "spares or repair" sale on ebay , assuming different > problem, may be the only chance. Thanks for your reply... Yes I know how this things are going... For sure that I'm just looking all around (not only ebay) But maybe sometime someone had just the same problem... so ... fingercross Thx!

Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Jul 20 12:08PM What is a realistic accuracy & precision of typical MPG measurements when measured by the consumer using the typical method of dividing their tripmeter miles by the gas-pump gallons during fillup?

Vic Smith <thismailautodeleted@comcast.net>: Jul 20 07:29AM -0500 >What is a realistic accuracy & precision of typical MPG measurements when >measured by the consumer using the typical method of dividing their >tripmeter miles by the gas-pump gallons during fillup?   Close to 100% accuracy if done right. I've done it on long trips. But MPG will vary depending on terrain, weather, wind direction, stop-and-go traffic, etc. So if you want "true" MPG for your car, you have to do it for the life of the car. Once you do it initially, it's kind of pointless to do again except to satisfy your curiosity.

clare@snyder.on.ca: Jul 20 09:04AM -0400 On Thu, 20 Jul 2017 12:08:33 -0000 (UTC), Mad Roger   >What is a realistic accuracy & precision of typical MPG measurements when >measured by the consumer using the typical method of dividing their >tripmeter miles by the gas-pump gallons during fillup? Repeatabilty is terrible. Accuracy can be pretty good over multiple tanks. Can be pretty good even on single tanks IF there is a way to ensure the tank is always filled to EXACTLY the same point (like a level in the fill - tube, with the vehicle parked at EXACTLY the same place for each fill-up). Relying on the auto-shutoff of the pump can cause variance of several liters per fillup.

Frank <"frank "@frank.net>: Jul 20 09:16AM -0400 > level in the fill - tube, with the vehicle parked at EXACTLY the same > place for each fill-up). Relying on the auto-shutoff of the pump can > cause variance of several liters per fillup.   My year old car gives constant mileage and appears very accurate when I calculate based on fill-up. It even has a moving mileage meter going up to 80 mpg when just coasting down hill or maybe 10 mpg going up hill. I recall many times on long trips mileage varying all over the map probably because I was filling up at different stations.

"Steve W." <csr684@NOTyahoo.com>: Jul 20 09:33AM -0400 Mad Roger wrote: > What is a realistic accuracy & precision of typical MPG measurements when > measured by the consumer using the typical method of dividing their > tripmeter miles by the gas-pump gallons during fillup?   IF the odometer is accurate and you do the math out to the 10ths of a gallon the pump shows it can be VERY accurate.   -- Steve W.

"Steve W." <csr684@NOTyahoo.com>: Jul 20 09:42AM -0400 > level in the fill - tube, with the vehicle parked at EXACTLY the same > place for each fill-up). Relying on the auto-shutoff of the pump can > cause variance of several liters per fillup.   Vehicle position or the auto shut off point won't make any difference. You read the amount of fuel you pumped off the pump itself. The only real issue is odometer accuracy. That can vary with tire size variations and factory calibration.   -- Steve W.

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 20 07:02AM -0700 On Thursday, July 20, 2017 at 9:42:15 AM UTC-4, Steve W. wrote: > > cause variance of several liters per fillup.   > Vehicle position or the auto shut off point won't make any difference. > You read the amount of fuel you pumped off the pump itself.     That's only assuming you started with a literally empty tank and ran it empty.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jul 20 07:13AM -0700 On Thursday, July 20, 2017 at 8:08:37 AM UTC-4, Mad Roger wrote: > What is a realistic accuracy & precision of typical MPG measurements when > measured by the consumer using the typical method of dividing their > tripmeter miles by the gas-pump gallons during fillup?   There is a difference between Accuracy and Precision.   Keeping it simple and consistent: Run the filler to the first click. Do NOT round to the nearest whole number. Note the miles.   Run the filler to the first click. Do the math.   You will be within a percent or two, certainly far more accurate than your driving is consistent. Meaning, that if you do this over 50 gallons of fuel, or so (about 2,410 miles in my case), you will have a single-decimal average MPG that is good enough for most uses.   My on-board computer calculates electric miles, regenerative miles and gasoline use with each trip at two decimal places. Doing check-math on paper just for giggles, my one-decimal calculation was dead-on via the method described - based on total miles driven and total gasoline used.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jul 20 10:57AM -0400 In article <okqbo5$c17$1@dont-email.me>, csr684@NOTyahoo.com says... > You read the amount of fuel you pumped off the pump itself. The only > real issue is odometer accuracy. That can vary with tire size variations > and factory calibration.   If you just do it one time, you can not be sure you put in the same ammount of fuel that was taken out.   If you keep a running total of the ammount of miles and fuel over several tank fulls , the ammount of fuel will sort of average out.   Say you park so the back of the car is up hill and you fill the tank. Go a number of miles and fill up again. This time the back of the car is down hill. You may burn out 15 gallons, but only put back in 14 gallons. Ot it could be the other way around and you burn 14 gallons, but only put back in 13 gallons. From tank to tank full there could be a large variation. Over many tanks, the variation will average out to a lessor error. After say 10 tanks used you only have to contend with one or two errors caused by the exact ammount of fuel put in the tank. Probably just the last tank full would be where the error would come in. So instead of 1 gallon of error like the example above, you would have about .1 gallon of error if the pumps are correct, which they should be.

Vic Smith <thismailautodeleted@comcast.net>: Jul 20 10:21AM -0500 >last tank full would be where the error would come in. So instead of 1 >gallon of error like the example above, you would have about .1 gallon >of error if the pumps are correct, which they should be.   If you're getting MPG on a long trip, you only fill the tank all the way when you start and when you finish the trip. All the other gas stops you go by the meter reading. Very little room for error if you write down the meter reading.

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jul 20 05:32PM +0100 In article <okq6g0$409$1@news.mixmin.net>, rogermadd@yahoo.com says...   > What is a realistic accuracy & precision of typical MPG measurements when > measured by the consumer using the typical method of dividing their > tripmeter miles by the gas-pump gallons during fillup?   Trip meter miles depends on circumference of driving wheels. I know my speedo closely matches readings of roadside radar displays or my GPS, so I guess trip meter miles will be accurate too.

"D. Peter Maus" <dpetermaus@att.net>: Jul 20 09:33AM -0500 On 7/17/17 16:43 , Michael A. Terrell wrote:   There is nothing that says to the client: "I'm not ready for this level of work," like running out of supplies in the middle of a job. On the other hand, there is nothing that says 'I came to play in the big leagues.' like letting the client see a depth of supplies.   For my commercial sound work, I buy wire in 1000' spools, connectors in 100 piece lots, and screws, nuts and washers by the bucket load. I standardize on specific hardware types to application, and I buy connectors and other hardware with an eye to standardized pieces, so that once installed, everything is not only neat and organized, but all the connectors are uniform, the wiring is uniform, and the installation/routing/management hardware is uniform.   As in most things, people shop with their eyes first, and looking like you're prepared is often more important than BEING prepared when servicing the needs of a client. Because a client that sees you're prepared will often recognize that you need little supervision, and will stay out of your way. And, an orderly, uniform finished installation will engender more confidence in your work, and the reliablity of the finished project.   Similarly, when I do live sound, everything is in the truck. Cables, amps, speakers, DI's, of course, but also the right type of cable, with the right terminations for the application. A almost never use an adaptor. So, that when I set up, there is never a question that not only myself, but the band/talent/corporate presenters are prepared.   That appearance of preparedness is essential for the appearance of professionalism.   It also doesn't help that you have everything on-hand, for a job, so you can get the job done faster, smoother and without stops or delays.   Clients dig that.     p

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Jul 19 11:33AM -0700 In article <isttmcdkrdk264ik2rth309veu1grabtbt@4ax.com>,   >What's the story behind using ammonia and bleach? I've never heard of >that concoction.   Ammonia is alkaline enough to saponify oils, at least to some extent. I doubt it would dissolve the gum as well as a light petroleum solvent would, but one might use it as a final cleaner to remove all traces of the old (dissolved) lubricant before re-lubricating.   I don't think that chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite) would be a good choice. It also is alkaline and might saponify the oils but the free chlorine could attack all sorts of things in the equipment, including the service technician.   Ammonia and bleach as a "concoction" is one of those things that the labels on both products warn you quite sternly NOT to do. When mixed, these chemicals react to create chloramine gas (a mixture of NH2Cl and NHCl2), which is a severe respiratory irritant.   http://www.nejm.org/doi/full/10.1056/NEJM199909093411115#t=article   Unless you're fond of recreational edema and emergency tracheostomy, I'd avoid this "concoction" as if it were poison :-)

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jul 19 01:33PM -0700 All of the following done OUTDOORS:   1 cup of lye in 3 gallons of *cold* water will remove any kind of paint, grease, or applied coating from any otherwise inert metal or plastic. Even from the smallest nooks and crannies if left overnight. Do not do this, or choose the option below unless you have a safe method of disposal of the effluent. Much vintage paint and coatings, especially bright colors contained lead, chromium, cadmium and other pigments that are no fun in any concentration.   Glacial Ammonia - available as a diazo-print developer back in the day - will do the same.   Kerosene and other light hydrocarbons should also be used outdoors if used as solvents. Similarly, gasoline, Naptha, Coleman fuel and others of that nature. And certainly not indoors or near sources of ignition - even electric fans.   Acetone should be used in very small quantities as the vapor is heavier than air and quite volatile (explosive). Outdoors if in any sort of quantity.   Similarly, methanol (wood alcohol). Very explosive if the vapors are concentrated.   I keep a number of 1-ounce glass eyedropper bottles for various solvents and such, including my 20:1 naptha-oleic acid mix. And even then, I tend to be quite careful with them.   I am also a great believer in new-technology lubricants. Synthetics, engineered long-chain polymers and PTFE additives have made the options very nearly infinitely better than even 30 years ago. Nor are vast quantities needed for most of us. Running four clocks and any number of other clockwork/mechanical devices (and guns) and I am still on my first pints with most left over. So, at that level, cost is really not a factor.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 20 06:53AM -0700 > I am also a great believer in new-technology lubricants. Synthetics, engineered long-chain polymers and PTFE additives have made the options very nearly infinitely better than even 30 years ago. Nor are vast quantities needed for most of us. Running four clocks and any number of other clockwork/mechanical devices (and guns) and I am still on my first pints with most left over. So, at that level, cost is really not a factor.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Some of those solvents are certainly toxic and explosive, but kerosene? I'm perfectly happy to use that indoors.     NT

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jul 20 07:04AM -0700 > Some of those solvents are certainly toxic and explosive, but kerosene? I'm perfectly happy to use that indoors.   Kerosene has two not-so-nice properties that few understand:   a) When exposed in quantity - on a rag, or in a bowl - although it has relatively low volatility, it does not have ZERO volatility. And that volatility is highly dependent on temperature. Further, kerosene is not uniformly one fraction, but several. What happens is that if any surfaces near to the work area are cooler than the rest of the room, a thin film of the heavier fractions will build up.   b) And, that film will polymerize over time (faster with exposure to UV or ozone) into a varnish-like coating that will be very nearly impossible to remove without heroic efforts.   Acetone, Naptha, Methanol and other alcohols and similar volatile solvents consist of fractions that do not have a transition temperature anywhere near normal room temperature.   Better living through chemistry!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Jul 19 11:50AM -0700 Could it be that you added/replaced songs when it started to fail? Maybe it cannot read beyond 32gb data area and fails when some data falls outside that area.

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Jul 20 04:32AM -0700 Ten years ago, Sandisk was showing such promise as the 'iPod killer' with their Sansa portable players. So where did they fall flat?   With product reliability, and total absence of anything resembling customer service/user support. Their designs were physically sturdy, compact, and straight- forward to use. Video-out, actual five- band equalizers, and even FM tuners were giving Apple and others a run for their money - until you put your device, like the Sansa View, into Shuffle mode while playing music.     On-screen art & info lagged behind the song playing, the controls would freeze, and sometimes the music would just stop playing for up to a minute at a time. Such was my experience with the 16Gb View I had back in 2008.     If they had functioned as effortlessly and as reliably as Apple's or Samsung's devices, I might never have bought all these iPods! Maybe just iPhone.

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Jul 20 09:47AM -0400

chris.binder@europe.com: Jul 20 05:43AM -0700 The problem with this units is they loose their Flash Erom memory, causing them to go into Un Calibrated state (Uncal), this is normally due the Main Batteries going Faulty or in a Non Rechargable state, being switcedh off and un charged for a long period of time, or the unit being taken apart by someone not realizing if the internal back up battery gets discounted or is forced flat it will cause eRom loss.   Chase went under years back, there were one or two companies that claimed they could fix or re Flash the Roms, but were either unsuccesfull or very expensive.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Jul 19 07:57PM +0100 "John-Del" <ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote in message news:2d56773a-a266-426f-984d-2fdededa3e4a@googlegroups.com... > brown-outs.   > As far as in-line tubes, I remember seeing mid 60s GE Portacolor TVs use > in-lines although I believe they were of delta configuration.   Its one or the other - delta is a bundle of guns and inline is exactly what it says.

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 19 02:53PM -0700 On Wednesday, July 19, 2017 at 2:57:18 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote: > > in-lines although I believe they were of delta configuration.   > Its one or the other - delta is a bundle of guns and inline is exactly what > it says.   Yep, misspoke. The porta-color used an inline gun but retained the round RCA style shadow mask. When viewed up close, the round phoshpors looked a lot like the earlier delta. Later in-lines (including the Trini) used the rectangular slots that were quite obvious even when the TV was off.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.