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Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Jul 21 03:21PM +0100 Colleague asked me today what the right sort of circlip pliers for removing the type of clip that needs expanding, but has just a pair of sort of 'opposite-facing "C"s' on the ends of the arms, rather than the more usual holes in the arms. He needs to remove a number of them that are securing fan blades onto a small motor shaft. The clip fits in a groove in the motor shaft. He has tried expanding pin-nosed circlip pliers that are the right size for the job, but because the pins are not locating in holes, they just keep slipping out. I'm sure that I've seen them with a small groove in the outer faces of the pins, but I can't for the life of me find any that look like that now. About the only other thing that I could suggest to him was that he take a pair of 'tradional' pin-tip ones, and Dremel a slot in each pin with a diamond cutting wheel like I keep in mine most of the time for jobs like this.   Anyone know if there is a specific tool readily available for this type of clip or if the clip or tool has a unique name rather than it just being a variant of an 'external circlip' ?   Arfa

Ken Layton <KLayton888@aol.com>: Jul 21 07:55AM -0700 Here's what I use:   http://www.sears.com/craftsman-combination-snap-ring-pliers-0.438-2in/p-00949272000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6   Sears has several more styles of snap ring pliers:   http://www.sears.com/search=snap%20ring%20pliers   Some are for both internal and external style snap rings while others are for internal only or external only.

Yrrah <Yrrah-aol@aol.invalid>: Jul 21 02:52PM +0200 > http://www.opera.com/privacy/computers   > On Ubuntu 16.04, is there a way for a non programmer to "trap" this unique > browser ID to see what it looks like?   FYI, there is a Ubuntu newsgroup: alt.os.linux.ubuntu   Yrrah

Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Jul 21 01:45AM The Opera browser "contains a unique ID that is linked to your device" http://www.opera.com/privacy/computers   On Ubuntu 16.04, is there a way for a non programmer to "trap" this unique browser ID to see what it looks like?   The ultimate goal will be to spoof the Opera browser unique ID but the first goal is just to see what it looks like and whether just reinstalling the app daily will generate a new unique id each time it's installed.

William Unruh <unruh@invalid.ca>: Jul 21 02:03AM > The Opera browser "contains a unique ID that is linked to your device" > http://www.opera.com/privacy/computers   Why not just stop using Opera?

Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Jul 21 02:50AM On Fri, 21 Jul 2017 02:03:45 -0000 (UTC), William Unruh wrote:   > Why not just stop using Opera?   This is a technical question, so the answer you seek is below, but the answer doesn't change the need for the technical answer to the question.   That point being made that the question remains a technical question no matter what the answer to your psychological question is, to answer your rationale question directly, unfortunately, Opera has value as a rare free vpn service that isn't blocked by almost all major forums and major web sites.   By way of complete contract, the just-as-free FF-based tbb exit nodes are almost always blocked (and tbb is far slower than is Opera).   You might suggest a free vpn combined with ff but most of them seem to be blocked also by most web sites (security kiss, hidemyass, cyberghost, etc.).   The Opera privacy policy isn't all that scary http://www.opera.com/privacy/computers   But this is a technical question so it really doesn't matter why.   It's a Linux question of how to "trap" the unique id transmission or creation or how to find it inside the Opera binary.

Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Jul 21 04:25AM On Fri, 21 Jul 2017 01:45:14 -0000 (UTC), Mad Roger wrote:   > The ultimate goal will be to spoof the Opera browser unique ID but the > first goal is just to see what it looks like and whether just reinstalling > the app daily will generate a new unique id each time it's installed.   If it helps, here is how I installed Opera via PPA on Ubuntu: 1. Set up the key: wget -O - http://deb.opera.com/archive.key | sudo apt-key add - 2. Set up the repository: sudo sh -c 'echo "deb http://deb.opera.com/opera-stable/ stable non-free" >> /etc/apt/sources.list.d/opera.list' 3. Set up the package: sudo apt-get update sudo apt-get install opera

William Unruh <unruh@invalid.ca>: Jul 21 07:07AM >> Why not just stop using Opera?   > This is a technical question, so the answer you seek is below, but the > answer doesn't change the need for the technical answer to the question.   No it was not "below", unless you meant that the answer to my question was below, not the OP's question. ... > The Opera privacy policy isn't all that scary > http://www.opera.com/privacy/computers   But the fact of the "Unique ID" IS scary. The assurance that this is not linkedto the uaser is of very little worth, because the browser history, and their mainainig a database of everything you do with the browser means that the link between the number and you would not be hard o make. It would be far more useful for oprivacy if instead they told you how to opt out of thi unique ID. "just believe us-- we are doing this for your own good" is not very comforting from anyone. Their privacy policy basically says "We do not give a damn about your privacy".           > But this is a technical question so it really doesn't matter why.   > It's a Linux question of how to "trap" the unique id transmission or > creation or how to find it inside the Opera binary.   I do not believe it is in the binary. To make a unique id for each person means that they either generate on the fly or do it once and save it somewhere, perhaps in encrypted form so you cannot find it.

Melzzzzz <Melzzzzz@zzzzz.com>: Jul 21 07:14AM > opt out of thi unique ID. "just believe us-- we are doing this for your > own good" is not very comforting from anyone. Their privacy policy > basically says "We do not give a damn about your privacy".   Using closed source blob for web surfing is not wise in any way...     -- press any key to continue or any other to quit...

Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Jul 21 09:06AM On Fri, 21 Jul 2017 07:07:53 -0000 (UTC), William Unruh wrote:   > opt out of thi unique ID. "just believe us-- we are doing this for your > own good" is not very comforting from anyone. Their privacy policy > basically says "We do not give a damn about your privacy".   I'm sorry for saying it's not scary.   My way of answering you wasn't meant to minimize the privacy issue as much as it was to try to focus you on the first step of figuring out what this unique id looks like.   We can talk about the issue and wave our arms around until the cows come home but I'm hoping to somehow trap the unique id to take a look at it - which is why I'm asking for your help.   I need to know if you know of a tool that we can use on Ubuntu to figure out what the heck Opera is sending home about each of its users.   Something like wireshark spits out so much that I need help in narrowing it down to just the communication with the opera servers.

Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Jul 21 09:08AM On Fri, 21 Jul 2017 07:14:36 +0000 (UTC), Melzzzzz wrote:   > Using closed source blob for web surfing is not wise in any way...   We can wax prolifically but I don't think anyone knows exactly what Opera is sending home to the mother ship.   So we'd break new ground if we knew of a tool that we could use to identify what is being sent home.

Caver1 <caver1@inthemud.org>: Jul 21 07:47AM -0400 On 7/20/17 10:50 PM, Mad Roger wrote:   > You might suggest a free vpn combined with ff but most of them seem to be > blocked also by most web sites (security kiss, hidemyass, cyberghost, > etc.).   If you did some research Opera's free VPN isn't a VPN at all, it's more of a proxy.     -- Caver1

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 20 12:46PM -0700 On Wednesday, 19 July 2017 07:21:53 UTC+1, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > Thanks for the details. Some of mine were left outside in the rain. > Rust everywhere. I think you have the right approach. Clean, lube, > adjust, and try again.     Right the 121 now works perfectly. I reassembled the upper thread tensioner leaving out the tension release disc as I couldn't get it to work with it. I can only presume it was wrongly assembled or some part out of spec, and likely a bit not present that should be.     That leaves the [far better] 530-2, a 1960s all-mechanical machine with camwheel operated stitch patterns. Good progress - it now sews & keeps going at a good speed. Some jammed bits are unstuck, but some remain jammed. https://ibb.co/kw9AS5 https://ibb.co/diHx75 https://ibb.co/gFh8Ek https://ibb.co/kV6DfQ https://ibb.co/eqi4n5 https://ibb.co/cvWDfQ Still jammed are:   - the needle position knob. The mechanism has a sprung detent thing, and it is jammed absolutely rock solid. Soaking in oil, baking in oven & plenty of force has had no effect.   - the stitch length knob moves but still very stiffly.   - the biggest problem is the stitch pattern selector. Again it's rock solid jammed. Photos and video don't show the mechanism at all, it's buried under other bits and one has to bob about to spot bits of it and work out what it is. I hope to add paraffin/kerosene tonight and cross fingers.     NT

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jul 20 01:24PM -0700 On Thursday, July 20, 2017 at 3:46:45 PM UTC-4, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:   Much snippage.     > Still jammed:   Do you have access to Kroil? I used it recently (and successfully) to loosen a muffler-bearing (OK, an exhaust manifold bolt) on my wife's very vintage Volvo recently. It might be effective in your situation where the other stuff has no effect.   http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqcHLBRAqEiwA-j4AyMZzSaKDxpEn_pSE2fN7OvcTUxZ_OCv1nMZr-YJ0O0YORY9t1JmSIhoCtIAQAvD_BwE   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 20 03:22PM -0700 >I couldn't get it to work with it. I can only presume it >was wrongly assembled or some part out of spec, and likely >a bit not present that should be.   Congrats. It's hard to argue with success, but save the extra washer somewhere just in case you discover that it's needed. I'm still looking for a 121 exploded view, which might have a detail of the upper tension thing.     >https://ibb.co/kV6DfQ >https://ibb.co/eqi4n5 >https://ibb.co/cvWDfQ   Thanks for the photos. Looks fairly clean, but it's hard to tell from photos. This might help with the cleaning ceremony: <http://tumorfarmer.blogspot.com/2015/09/bernina-530-2-sewing-machine.html> The author used alcohol and kerosene (separately). Also see the reader comments from Becky which have more detail on the cleaning.   One change I would recommend is to NOT use cotton Q-tips in areas where there's a risk of stuffing some cotton into a bushing or bearing. It's very difficult to remove the cotton later. I have some really sharp and fine pointed stainless tweezers that work fairly well, but it's best to avoid that problem. Use the foam (lint free) type of Q-tips instead.   Incidentally, the yellow colored crud in the photos is not dried oil. It's a mix of rust, dried oil, and water. I didn't see any in your photos, so at least you don't have a rust problem.   >- the needle position knob. The mechanism has a sprung detent >thing, and it is jammed absolutely rock solid. Soaking in oil, >baking in oven & plenty of force has had no effect.   I'm fairly sure the thread is NOT left handed but it wouldn't hurt to check (somehow). There's probably a spring behind the detent, which is glued in place by gum. I'm not familiar with the mechanism, so I can't suggest where to apply brute force. Try penetrating oil.   >- the stitch length knob moves but still very stiffly.   I'm not sure, but the arm usually has a roller or bearing at the end. Make sure that the bearing is actually turning, and not sliding.   >all, it's buried under other bits and one has to bob about to >spot bits of it and work out what it is. I hope to add >paraffin/kerosene tonight and cross fingers.   No clue there. Again, look for a roller, bearing, or follower that is NOT turning. See if paraffin, kerosene, paint thinner, Kroil, naphtha, or whatever helps. If it does, add more of the same.   Not much in the way of specific help, but better than nothing.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 20 05:26PM -0700 On Thursday, 20 July 2017 23:22:48 UTC+1, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > somewhere just in case you discover that it's needed. I'm still > looking for a 121 exploded view, which might have a detail of the > upper tension thing.   of course I'll keep the washer. It had 2 purposes, neither of which is needed to function fine. I don't know whether you're familiar with Berninas, they're the rolls royce of sewing machines, though the 121 being straight stitch is not of value. Before it was fixed I half wondered about selling it as parts for 125, the more able version.   The one bit of bad news re the 121 is that its mains lead is going to be needed for the 530-2, leaving it without one. A slight inconvenience perhaps for the end user. It does look a bit like IEC 9/10/11/12 mains lead connectors, but I doubt one would fit.     > really sharp and fine pointed stainless tweezers that work fairly > well, but it's best to avoid that problem. Use the foam (lint free) > type of Q-tips instead.   I plan to use plastic tube from q-tips to drip kero in. If still stuck I'll try alcohol too.   > Incidentally, the yellow colored crud in the photos is not dried oil. > It's a mix of rust, dried oil, and water. I didn't see any in your > photos, so at least you don't have a rust problem.   there is yellow/brown crud, no rust anywhere that I can see. I got bitten by that years ago, fixed a machine only to discover it wouldn't sew reliably because there was corrosion on the shuttle holder, so the thread sometimes caught on it.     > check (somehow). There's probably a spring behind the detent, which > is glued in place by gum. I'm not familiar with the mechanism, so I > can't suggest where to apply brute force. Try penetrating oil.   I don't know which thread you mean. The pressy-round-thing will get a solvent soaking, and if necessary more baking.   > >- the stitch length knob moves but still very stiffly.   > I'm not sure, but the arm usually has a roller or bearing at the end. > Make sure that the bearing is actually turning, and not sliding.   I'll look, though ISTR that being fairly inaccessible.   > NOT turning. See if paraffin, kerosene, paint thinner, Kroil, > naphtha, or whatever helps. If it does, add more of the same.   > Not much in the way of specific help, but better than nothing.   I think the part that's jammed consists of: rod in bearing into case then universal joint at other end so will just soak it in solvents & bake & see what happens. Access is a mare but should be able to drip onto it, probably with a fair bit missing the thing, but kero & alcohol are harmless enough.   thank you NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 20 05:27PM -0700 > http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqcHLBRAqEiwA-j4AyMZzSaKDxpEn_pSE2fN7OvcTUxZ_OCv1nMZr-YJ0O0YORY9t1JmSIhoCtIAQAvD_BwE   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   No, I checked, I'll try other solvents first, and think again if necessary.     NT

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jul 21 09:41AM +0100 In article <ad46e2bf-b20d-42bd-acb0-2590f5cfa235@googlegroups.com>, tabbypurr@gmail.com says...   > I don't know which thread you mean. The pressy-round-thing will get a > solvent soaking, and if necessary more baking.   "Thread" does have a nice ambiguity in the context of sewing machines!   Mike.

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Jul 20 04:05PM -0700 Michael Black:   Admittedly, most of the problems I described happened with their View, not the contemporary Clip or later Fuze. They just didn't Q.C. the thing sufficiently - if at all - before product launch.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jul 20 09:48AM -0700 fly shit to the left, pepper to the right.   Guys and gals - *EVERYTHING* depends on the accuracy of the odometer, the variation in the operating diameter of the tires, the amount of friction involved (LRR tires vs. AT tires as one example), even tire pressure. Then, add head or tail winds, external temperature, type and age of road surface, number of people in the car, number of dead McDonald's wrappers in the back, and so on and so forth.   If one wants five-decimal precision (that is also accurate) then one will need more tools than a commercial gas-pump reading and a simple odometer reading. However, if one wishes simply one-decimal accuracy, the problem is trivial and needs very little analysis-in-depth.   And, whether the car is parked on a hill pointing up, or pointing down, if it is being fueled at a legal, code-compliant fuel station, the flatness at the pump islands is regulated. Despite the many reaches to the contrary, this ain't nohow rocket science! It barely rises to slide-rule requirements... .   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

clare@snyder.on.ca: Jul 20 05:15PM -0400 On Thu, 20 Jul 2017 09:42:10 -0400, "Steve W." <csr684@NOTyahoo.com> wrote:   >You read the amount of fuel you pumped off the pump itself. The only >real issue is odometer accuracy. That can vary with tire size variations >and factory calibration. No, steve. You are wrong. The amount of fuel you put in is the amount you can squeeze into the empty portion of the tank. The amount you used is the amount that used to be in the tank. You need to fill it to the exact same point each time to get an accurate reading. You may have filled your 72 liter tank to only 71 liters the last time you put in 50 liters to fill the tank. Now, at a different station, with different levels, you may squeeze in 73, or only 68. COSISTANCY is the key - and where most will fall down, because, like you, they just don't REALLY understand.

clare@snyder.on.ca: Jul 20 05:19PM -0400 On Thu, 20 Jul 2017 10:57:06 -0400, Ralph Mowery >last tank full would be where the error would come in. So instead of 1 >gallon of error like the example above, you would have about .1 gallon >of error if the pumps are correct, which they should be.   If the first and last are identical, none of the others matter. The difference of 1, or 10 liters spread across many tanks becomes , more or less, just noise. On the short term, like 1 tank, it can be a pretty large percentage of error.

Frank <"frank "@frank.net>: Jul 20 06:41PM -0400 > different levels, you may squeeze in 73, or only 68. COSISTANCY is the > key - and where most will fall down, because, like you, they just > don't REALLY understand.   You buy gas by the gallon and mileage is miles per gallon. Summer gas has higher density so you get more gas by weight for your money but it costs more per gallon in the summer. Sounds like you can't win.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jul 20 10:29AM -0700 Have you gone to the Horse's Mouth? At the very least, you might be able to get a schematic.   https://www3.fronius.com/cps/rde/xchg/SID-12218796-57DE8E7D/fronius_usa/hs.xsl/3022_3755.htm#.WXDn3oTyvIV   Generally, I do not take "my friend said..." as the epitome of exhaustive research.     Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Reinhard Zwirner <reinhard.zwirner@t-online.de>: Jul 19 11:41PM +0200 oldschool@tubes.com schrieb:   [...] > batteries as well. (In other words, more than one kind of battery). Why > didn't they just use one battery or one set of batteries for the whole > device?   It's for measurement of high resistance values.   Sensitivity of the movement in a 20 kOhms/V AMM is 50 渙. Current through a 1.5 MOhm resistor will be 1 渙 with one AA cell (1.5 V): hard to read on the scale.   With a 15 V battery there will be 10 渙 ...   HTH   Reinhard

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