Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 7 updates in 3 topics

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Aug 12 09:08AM -0700

David Farber wrote:
> find out the procedure to remove the knob in a manner that wouldn't
> force or break anything. A new timer has already been purchased.
 
> Thanks for your reply.
 
When the knob is pushed in, it spins AND SO DOES THE SHAFT without any
clicking noises. I think what has happened is whatever mechanism that
engages the shaft to the gears inside the timer is broken. Since the
mechanism's gears are not applying any locking action in the
counter-clockwise direction, the knob cannot be unscrewed. This knob is not
like the other knobs on the washer. It needs to be unscrewed. It cannot be
directly pulled off. The only solution I can think of is to put some glue
inside the back of the timer where the shaft is. Maybe it will lock the
shaft into place so the knob could be unscrewed.
 
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA
Thanks for your reply.
sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Aug 11 03:48PM -0400


> A *lot* less often and when they do have problems they own up to it
> and recall them. You won't see any of the cheap models recalling
> products.
 
Also, the Samsung recall of fire-prone phones was due to battery
problems, not charger problems.
 
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
 
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
ggherold@gmail.com: Aug 11 05:58PM -0700

On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 1:08:32 PM UTC-4, Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:
> so mostly intended for Apple devices.
 
> http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/audiofaq.htm#audipcrhg
 
> Comments welcome.
You didn't test beyond the rated power?
I always like to see what happens when things are overloaded.
Do they shut down, or stink and smoke?
 
George H.
sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Aug 12 08:24AM -0400

> You didn't test beyond the rated power?
> I always like to see what happens when things are overloaded.
> Do they shut down, or stink and smoke?
 
No, at least not intentionally, sorry. Some ended up being tested at higher
current than their ratings and at least didn't stink or smoke or shut
down during the quick test. :)
 
And, in the interest of science, I have just purchased a 12 W charger
from the Apple store to compare. ;-)
 
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
 
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
Ralph Phillips <ralphp@philent.biz>: Aug 12 09:52AM -0500

On 8/10/2017 2:15 PM, John-Del wrote:
 
> None except nice to see you posting and hope all is well Sam.
 
Me also.
 
Long time no see!
 
RwP
Jim Buchanan <jbuchana@gmail.com>: Aug 11 10:22AM -0700

"Mechasm"? Perhaps?
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Aug 11 07:36PM -0400

John Robertson wrote:
> can't recall. I now think that it was from the 40s.
 
> I recall hearing about KillDozer but never saw the movie...
 
> John :-#)#
 
 
 
You might try:
 
news:rec.arts.sf.written
 
or http://www.isfdb.org/
 
 
--
Never piss off an Engineer!
 
They don't get mad.
 
They don't get even.
 
They go for over unity! ;-)
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