sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Sep 13 01:02PM -0400 In article <rllircpppd7dpgs7prftp00nqhlo6nleig@4ax.com>, jeffl@cruzio.com says... > some of these odd pattern fasteners and not have a matching driver: > <http://atomic22.com> > <http://www.torontocycles.com/Titanium_Security_Bolts.html>     I hate all the 'special' screw heads just to try and keep people from turning them. I have several chain saws ,leaf blowers, and other small engines that each one takes a special tool just to adjust the carborator. Seems like there are 5 or more special tools just to adjust the carborators. One company does not offer their tool to anyone but their service companies. I had to take my Dremal tool and cut a slot in the head so a regular screw driver would fit.   Those spcial tools only slow down people and do nt seem to stop anyone.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 13 05:20PM -0700 On Wed, 13 Sep 2017 13:02:20 -0400, Ralph Mowery >driver would fit.   >Those spcial tools only slow down people and do nt seem to >stop anyone.   Yep, that's pretty much the way things work. To protect the environment from smog produced by chain saws, carburetors are to be adjusted only by factory authorized experts, or by anyone with an eBay account: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/8pk-Screwdriver-Splined-Carb-Carburetor-Adjustment-Chainsaw-Tools-Kit-Repair-Set-/142506605139> I find it hard that the accumulated smog output from small engines would be significant, especially when compared to automobiles, industrial output, and bovine flatulence, but so it is written into the law.   Incidentally, I was just taking a break from chewing up some lumber scrap with my nice new Stihl MS180 chain saw. The only user accessible carburetor adjustment is the idle speed. No problem with a new saw, but if I ever rebuild the carburetor, I'll surely need to adjust the low and high speed screws. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

ggherold@gmail.com: Sep 14 05:12AM -0700 On Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 8:20:07 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com > Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com > Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558   I've got an old Stihl chainsaw. It's got two adjustment screws, I've only tweaked the one. Dang nice tool!   George H.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Sep 14 06:46AM -0700 On Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 8:20:07 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > would be significant, especially when compared to automobiles, > industrial output, and bovine flatulence, but so it is written into > the law.   Not so much chain-saws as two-stroke engines in general.   https://www.edmunds.com/about/press/leaf-blowers-emissions-dirtier-than-high-performance-pick-up-trucks-says-edmunds-insidelinecom.html   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

etpm@whidbey.com: Sep 14 08:48AM -0700 On Wed, 13 Sep 2017 17:20:02 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   >accessible carburetor adjustment is the idle speed. No problem with a >new saw, but if I ever rebuild the carburetor, I'll surely need to >adjust the low and high speed screws. Greetings Jeff, Does your new saw have the wind up starting feature? Several years ago I bought a new Stihl MS180 C that has this feature and the no tools required chain tensioning and bar removal system. I bought the saw manily for the wind up starting because of bad arthritis in both wrists. I love the saw. It still starts easy and changing chains and cleaning the sawdust out is super easy. I think Stihl is now making a larger saw with the same features and I need to go shopping to see. The only problem with the saw was when the oiler stopped working. I called the local Stihl dealer for advice and he said to pour out the bar oil, replace with fuel mix, run the saw without the bar attached until the fuel mix starts coming out, and the dump the fuel and replace with bar oil. His advice was good. Eric

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 14 09:42AM -0700 On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 06:46:01 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"   >https://www.edmunds.com/about/press/leaf-blowers-emissions-dirtier-than-high-performance-pick-up-trucks-says-edmunds-insidelinecom.html   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA   I'm still having a hard time believing it. The web site mentioned in the press release: <http://www.insideline.com> has disappeared and is being redirected to edmunds.com. I wasn't able to find the actual report. Nothing on the Edmunds site under "research". However, the video is still on YouTube: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDxQIHoTmxs> Seems to be for real, but I still would like to see the numbers and details.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 14 02:45PM +0100 Hi All,   The tip has come though the barrel on my trusty Weller iron (I've had and used it regularly since my days with British Telecom 40+ years ago) and I think it's a function of wear on both.   So I'm looking for a new barrel and probably a new tip [1] but I just wondered if anyone could confirm the part number for the barrel please? I believe it's '0051031199' but I thought I'd check before ordering.   And whilst I can find PT-H6 tips (on eBay etc), I wondered if anyone knew of an alternative that might be better for slightly bigger jobs and with 60/40 please?   Like, I believe the PT-H6 is a .8mm 'screwdriver' tip and 310 or 315 DegC?   I think the number on the end determines the temperature with: 6=310, 7=370, 8=425, 9=480 DegC so a 6 should be good for 60/40 with a melting point of about 190 DegC?   I'm guessing the 'PT' is probably the series and the other letter defines the shape and size of the tip so is there a nice chart somewhere please?   Cheers, T i m   [1] I have several other irons, including a 250V temperature controlled / (screwdriver) adjustable Weller (somewhere), a big Weller (75W), an Iroda Pro-50K gas iron (very handy) and even a 'hot knife' for cutting synthetic rope, however I was wondering if there was a mode modern workhorse general purpose iron that could match the PU-1D for reliability and spares access etc?

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Sep 15 12:39AM +1000 On 14/09/2017 23:45, T i m wrote: > wondered if anyone could confirm the part number for the barrel > please? I believe it's '0051031199' but I thought I'd check before > ordering.   Can't recall the numbers but you'll probably need a new element as well as barrel. They changed (increased) the outside diameter of the replacement TCP elements around 2003, and consequently also the inside diameter of the barrels. Maybe the old element would work in a new barrel but I wouldn't be surprised if the thread or something else doesn't fit properly.   I had the opposite problem, the element burned out so I needed to replace the barrel too. I'd consider sending you my old barrel, but I am too far away (Australia) (and I can't guarantee that I would be able to find it).     > And whilst I can find PT-H6 tips (on eBay etc), I wondered if anyone > knew of an alternative that might be better for slightly bigger jobs > and with 60/40 please? I pretty much only use two sorts, I think they are PTDD7 and PTAA7 but not sure any more as I mostly use a Metcal these days.     > I think the number on the end determines the temperature with: > 6=310, 7=370, 8=425, 9=480 DegC so a 6 should be good for 60/40 with a > melting point of about 190 DegC? No, 6 is too cold even with tin-lead. You want a number 7, and I think that will do nicely for lead free as well. Number 8 will burn tracks off the board unless you are very careful and quick.     > I'm guessing the 'PT' is probably the series and the other letter > defines the shape and size of the tip so is there a nice chart > somewhere please? Not easy to find with google. It doesn't help that Farnell uses the wrong photo for most of the tips.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Sep 13 01:11PM -0400 In article <1d24b048-8665-4621-bd51- 1fa0c0afb44a@googlegroups.com>, mhooker32@gmail.com says...   > im working on a arcade game board . the tip 120 for an eject soleniod is driven right off the processor leg, no pre -driver transistor. didnt even think that was possible, maybe that why it blew. is there a mosfet i can replace the tip120 with?   > thanks   Why not just buy the tip 120 ? They are only from about $ .50 to $ .75 from several big dealers.   Even ebay has what you want for less than $ 6 for 5 of them including shipping. The larges cost is the $ 4 for shipping That the arcade game machine is mentione in.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-5-TIP120-Williams-Pinball- Coil-Driver-Transistors-/251525068084?epid=1231714050 &hash=item3a900ff534:g:XX8AAOSw8d9UuyQx

ggherold@gmail.com: Sep 13 01:12PM -0700 On Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 12:25:30 PM UTC-4, tom wrote:   > > George H.   > The TIP120 is a medium power darlington NPN rated for 60 volts. It has the > reverse diode built in.   Huh, thanks. I knew it is a darlington, I didn't know about the diode. Still you might want to add a diode on the coil... I'm a belt and suspenders type.   George H.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 13 05:29PM -0700 >im working on a arcade game board . the tip 120 for an eject soleniod is driven right off the processor leg, no pre -driver transistor. didnt even think that was possible, maybe that why it blew. is there a mosfet i can replace the tip120 with? >thanks   I don't like using darlingtons for power drivers. A momentary shorted load, and the darlington blows up from too much current. This article should provide some detail: <http://www.sensitiveresearch.com/elec/DoNotTIP/index.html> I can't offer any specific recommendations without some clue as to the processor output voltage and current capabilities, the solenoid specs, and the operating voltage.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

ggherold@gmail.com: Sep 14 05:20AM -0700 On Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 8:29:21 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com > Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com > Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558   I use a TIP120 in a lamp heater (Rubidium lamp). It's nailed right to the lamp housing (besides a power resistor that shares the work.) Works great. It must be a fairly robust piece of silicon, 'cause I've used it to raise the lamp temperature to 150 C and let it run for days like that. (typical operation temp is 120 C.. for years.)   George H.

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 14 06:46AM -0700 On Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 8:29:21 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com > Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com > Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558       I wouldn't worry about using a Darlington as a coil driver. Arcade games are generally quite robust (the monitors generally the weakest point) and they've been using them for years with no issues. They used to use relays or even high current leaf switches to drive coils but relays and switches have a finite life.

oldschool@tubes.com: Sep 13 10:01PM -0400 On Wed, 13 Sep 2017 14:50:57 +0100, Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid> wrote:     >If so, I think I might need to make conductive and internally ground >parts of the vacuum cleaner, using metal loaded paint and/or aluminium >tape. Work that I want to avoid if possible.   While I am not 100% sure, I would think that any metal tip on the vac which is well grounded, should work. I'd probably find some pipe and duct tape it to the vac. Then apply a ground wire to it.

John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com>: Sep 13 09:21PM -0700 On Wed, 13 Sep 2017 14:50:57 +0100, Adrian Caspersz >operation.   >http://www.beldray.com/beldray-bel0427-quick-vac-lite-red.html   >I'd quite like to use it to clean dust out from electronic equipment.   Just do it. Air is not going to zap electronic gear.     --   John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc   lunatic fringe electronics

oldschool@tubes.com: Sep 13 07:58PM -0400 >notched past for a semi fast dry and fell into a bin. Sorry I don't >have a better memory. >CP   That makes sense and the wheels would rotate the diode, resistor, etc. I did assume the paint was very fast drying. How they managed to get the correct polarity with that device is hard to imagine. I can only guess there was a means to get a meter reading on them in mass amounts. Interesting stuff!!!!

MOP CAP <email@domain.com>: Sep 13 07:02PM -0700 To measure the BV[ break down voltage] of a diode you apply a small current [5 micro amp] and measure the voltage. If it is a high voltage it is in one polarity. If a low voltage it is the forward direction. If correct the diode drops down. If not it goes thru a tube that rotates i it n the correction direction and into the hopper for the painter.. CP

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Sep 13 03:32PM -0400 ~misfit~ wrote on 9/13/2017 9:26 AM: >> aren't?   > I didn't say they aren't here, I remember that not long ago they weren't in > the US. Are they compulsory in the back seats too?   http://bfy.tw/DuT3   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.