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T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 14 06:52PM +0100 On Fri, 15 Sep 2017 00:39:53 +1000, Chris Jones >diameter of the barrels. Maybe the old element would work in a new >barrel but I wouldn't be surprised if the thread or something else >doesn't fit properly.   Hmm, ok, this is just the sort of thing I needed to know, thanks.   Just OOI, I have these measurements of my existing barrel:   55.5 mm long (including the nut). 8.6 mm outside diameter of tube. 7.9 mm inside diameter of tube. 12 mm across the flats of the nut. 8.6 mm inside diameter of the thread.   >replace the barrel too. I'd consider sending you my old barrel, but I am >too far away (Australia) (and I can't guarantee that I would be able to >find it).   Well, that's a very kind offer and it's the thought that counts Chris. ;-) >> and with 60/40 please?   >I pretty much only use two sorts, I think they are PTDD7 and PTAA7 but >not sure any more as I mostly use a Metcal these days.   <Googles Metcal> 'Metcal PS-900 Soldering System, £185.39', ouch! >> 6=310, 7=370, 8=425, 9=480 DegC so a 6 should be good for 60/40 with a >> melting point of about 190 DegC?   >No, 6 is too cold even with tin-lead.   Erm, I don't know if mine has aged hotter or somesuch but just yesterday (and with the tip falling out) I easily soldered some mains cable to some solid metal terminals (inside an IEC plug) with the .8mm tip with no real issues?   >You want a number 7, and I think >that will do nicely for lead free as well.   I'm not sure I'll be actively using any lead free but may well come across it etc.   > Number 8 will burn tracks off >the board unless you are very careful and quick.   Not good. >> somewhere please?   >Not easy to find with google. It doesn't help that Farnell uses the >wrong photo for most of the tips.   Great! (not). ;-)   Cheers, T i m   p.s. A mate has a nearly unused soldering / rework station spare that he said he will give me first refusal on, as / when he finds it! It has a hot air gun, temp controlled soldering iron and smoke extraction. I think it was bought locally and they also stock the spares etc but I have a small electric hot air gun for heat shrink and don't solder enough to bother too much about the fumes (along with not breathing when soldering etc <g>). The problem is it's a bit big so sot something I could just pop down on the kitchen worktop to do a quick soldering job? ;-(   Cheers, T i m

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 14 11:59PM +0100 On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 18:52:14 +0100, T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote:   <snip>   I just got a reply from an eBay seller who has measured the barrel they are selling and their measurements are at the end of mine in square brackets:   55.5 mm long (including the nut). [57.4] (I think there is supposed to be a small crimp on the end that mine is now missing, hence the difference).   8.6 mm outside diameter of tube. [9.2] (This could be the larger diameter to take the larger filament you mentioned Chris?)   7.9 mm inside diameter of tube. [8.6] (Same again)   12 mm across the flats of the nut. [12mm] (Ok, so that hasn't changed.)   8.6 mm inside diameter of the thread. [8.6] mm (And that's the same, suggesting the flange on the nut might be a bit thinner bit the actual thread spec the same)?   So, I could get this one and then it would take the newer filament later if required?   Cheers, T i m

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Sep 16 01:07AM +1000 On 15/09/2017 03:52, T i m wrote: >> find it).   > Well, that's a very kind offer and it's the thought that counts Chris. > ;-) Ok I dug out my box of weller parts and I did find the old barrel. (I expect that it would cost a bit to post though as it won't fit in a letter. Let me know if you are seriously interested.)   I also found the old-style dead element and some new-style elements and barrels. The new-style barrel does go onto the old-style element, but even with the thread tightened all the way, it does not grip the soldering bit tightly so it wobbles and probably doesn't conduct heat all that well. I'd say it is not usable like that.     >>> knew of an alternative that might be better for slightly bigger jobs >>> and with 60/40 please?   >> I pretty much only use two sorts, I think they are PTDD7 and PTAA7 PT-DD7 part number 0054127799, (Farnell 416-435, their picture is wrong) and PT-P7 (part number 0054134799)   >> not sure any more as I mostly use a Metcal these days.   > <Googles Metcal> 'Metcal PS-900 Soldering System, £185.39', ouch! MX-500 actually, even worse!   > yesterday (and with the tip falling out) I easily soldered some mains > cable to some solid metal terminals (inside an IEC plug) with the .8mm > tip with no real issues? Well, I have some 6 and 7 and 8, and I prefer the 7.

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 15 05:40PM +0100 On Sat, 16 Sep 2017 01:07:50 +1000, Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com> wrote:   <snip>   >> Well, that's a very kind offer and it's the thought that counts Chris. >> ;-)   >Ok I dug out my box of weller parts   I guess I've been lucky till now. ;-)   >and I did find the old barrel. (I >expect that it would cost a bit to post though as it won't fit in a >letter. Let me know if you are seriously interested.)   Ok, thanks again and let me see what I can do this end before I waste your time and effort etc. >even with the thread tightened all the way, it does not grip the >soldering bit tightly so it wobbles and probably doesn't conduct heat >all that well. I'd say it is not usable like that.   Ah.   Checking the existing tip in my original element (without the barrel) it seems to fit it reasonably well but with a bit of slack. Fitting my barrel doesn't help as the tip just falls through it. ;-(     >>> I pretty much only use two sorts, I think they are PTDD7 and PTAA7 >PT-DD7 part number 0054127799, (Farnell 416-435, their picture is wrong) >and PT-P7 (part number 0054134799)   Thanks for those Chris.   >>> not sure any more as I mostly use a Metcal these days.   >> <Googles Metcal> 'Metcal PS-900 Soldering System, £185.39', ouch!   >MX-500 actually, even worse!   <gulp!>   >> cable to some solid metal terminals (inside an IEC plug) with the .8mm >> tip with no real issues?   >Well, I have some 6 and 7 and 8, and I prefer the 7.   Noted and I've ordered a couple of 7's.   Cheers, T i m

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 14 09:42AM -0700 On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 06:46:01 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"   >https://www.edmunds.com/about/press/leaf-blowers-emissions-dirtier-than-high-performance-pick-up-trucks-says-edmunds-insidelinecom.html   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA   I'm still having a hard time believing it. The web site mentioned in the press release: <http://www.insideline.com> has disappeared and is being redirected to edmunds.com. I wasn't able to find the actual report. Nothing on the Edmunds site under "research". However, the video is still on YouTube: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDxQIHoTmxs> Seems to be for real, but I still would like to see the numbers and details.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

ggherold@gmail.com: Sep 14 12:11PM -0700 On Thursday, September 14, 2017 at 12:42:58 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDxQIHoTmxs> > Seems to be for real, but I still would like to see the numbers and > details.   Interesting, I will observe that I put two or three gallons of gas through my chain saw in a year. And about 500 through my car.   George H.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 14 10:15PM -0700 >Does your new saw have the wind up starting feature?   No. Mine is just the MS180 with no extras: <https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms180/> There's also the MS180C-BE which has the Easy2Start and the "Quick Chain Adjust" features: <https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms180cbe/> I don't see the MS180C on the product list any more.   >tools required chain tensioning and bar removal system. I bought the >saw manily for the wind up starting because of bad arthritis in both >wrists.   Good reason. I kinda wish I had that for a rather dumb reason. The rear handle (the one with the trigger) is too small to fit my steel toe shoes. There's no place to stand on the handle while starting. The right side of the handle has a knuckle guard that will fit my shoe, but that means I have to start it left handed. For now, I put a length of 2x4 through the handle and stand on it when starting, but that's going to get old rather quickly.   So far, I really like the MS180. It's very light and cuts fast. Power is acceptable, but I'm having difficulties learning how to start it properly. Maybe I should read the manual. I wonder if the Ez2Start device can be added to the MS180.   This is my first Stihl saw. My others are a motley assortment of Husquvarna, Homelite, McCullogh, junk, etc. <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/chainsaw/index.html> I have about twice as many saws now.   > I love the saw. It still starts easy and changing chains and >cleaning the sawdust out is super easy. I think Stihl is now making a >larger saw with the same features and I need to go shopping to see.   In the "Homeowner" series: <https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms181cbe/> <https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms211cbe/> <https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms251cbe/> Plenty of others in other series. Just look for the C-E suffix.   >bar oil, replace with fuel mix, run the saw without the bar attached >until the fuel mix starts coming out, and the dump the fuel and >replace with bar oil. His advice was good.   Yech. I do that a little differently. I have a spare bar oil cap with a hose barb screwed and glued into the middle. I attach a vinyl hose to the barb, with the other end to my air compressor. 30 psi will usually be sufficient to blow out any sawdust and oil mix. That happens if I store the saw for a few month, and the bar oil turns to tar. You might look into trying a different brand of bar oil.   I still have about 1/4 cord of firewood from last year. The problem is that it's all 18" long and my wood burner will only take 16". <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/home/slides/wood-burner.html> It's going to be a very noisy and tiring weekend.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

ggherold@gmail.com: Sep 15 05:20AM -0700 On Friday, September 15, 2017 at 1:15:41 AM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > is acceptable, but I'm having difficulties learning how to start it > properly. Maybe I should read the manual. I wonder if the Ez2Start > device can be added to the MS180.   My (older) Stihl takes six pulls to start. Every time. (Well not once it's been running.)   George h.

etpm@whidbey.com: Sep 15 08:44AM -0700 On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 22:15:40 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   >is that it's all 18" long and my wood burner will only take 16". ><http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/home/slides/wood-burner.html> >It's going to be a very noisy and tiring weekend. My saw must be the -BE model. It just has 180C printed on the starter cover. I am pretty sure the Ez2Start assembly can be added to your saw. It looks like you just swap the starter cover without the EZ start with the EZ start caover assembly. Starting the saw is kinda strange. You just pull the starter handle slowly and when it has wound up enough it turns the engine over. So it takes a little getting used to. But I love it. Both of my wrists are bone on bone joints now so stuff like starting high compression engines is hard on them. But I also live on 10 wooded acres and need to saw stuff up, like when a tree blows down and blocks the driveway. Eric

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 15 09:01AM -0700 >Interesting, I will observe that I put two or three gallons >of gas through my chain saw in a year. And about 500 through my car. >George H.   The video claims that a Ryobi leaf blower belches pollutants at about 8 times the rate of the automobile. That's serious. I can't verify the method used, but I do know something about garden equipment. Ryobi is near last in terms of quality. I would be a bit less skeptical if they had used name brand equipment for the comparison.   "Regulations for Emissions from Small Equipment & Tools" (EPA) <https://www.epa.gov/regulations-emissions-vehicles-and-engines/regulations-emissions-small-equipment-tools>   "National Emissions from Lawn and Garden Equipment" <https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2015-09/documents/banks.pdf>   "California Weighs Tougher Emissions Rules For Gas-Powered Garden Equipment" (Feb 2017) <http://www.npr.org/2017/02/28/517576431/california-weighs-tougher-emissions-rules-for-gas-powered-garden-equipment>   I've discussed the situation with the local saw shop mechanic. He attends the various factory training seminars where emissions issues are discussed. He claims that if the feds or California enact any of the proposed emission standards, most everything sold (except very small engines) will need to switch to 4 cycle engines to comply. Part of the logic is to make the standards 10x more stringent that required on the assumption that in the field, emissions will increase with the age of the machine. Husqvarna has delayed switching to 4 stroke with their X-Torq engine, which offers a substantial reduction in emissions, but not enough to meet the proposed standards. <http://www.husqvarna.com/int/international-microsite/about-husqvarna/environmental-responsibility/> He also notes that battery powered tools are a slick way around the emissions problems. I've been thinking of converting an AC powered electric chain saw to running on battery power. Yet another projet.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Ryan <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_11747@example.com>: Sep 15 12:44AM replying to Dan, Ryan wrote: I am having the same issue with a brand new wall unit. At least my room temp goes down to about 65/66 when set at 60. But this is very annoying that these are all calibrated wrong! Do they do this on purpose to appease the global warming cults or something?   -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/adjustiing-mod-ing-digital-thermostat-on-lg-window-air-condi-116541-.htm

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 14 10:10AM -0700 On 2017/09/14 6:46 AM, John-Del wrote: >> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com >> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558   > I wouldn't worry about using a Darlington as a coil driver. Arcade games are generally quite robust (the monitors generally the weakest point) and they've been using them for years with no issues. They used to use relays or even high current leaf switches to drive coils but relays and switches have a finite life.   Well, actually. no, arcade games (pinball games) using TIPs and other BJTs have a nasty habit of failing and cooking their coils and the circuit board. Many of us in the trade are getting around to finally ripping out all these dinosaurs and replacing them with modern devices. It has taken me far too long to realize I am not doing customers a favour by leaving old tech in their games. As the link Jeff provided you get up to 4VDC drop across the BJT so a MOSFET with less than 1V drop will give you more pop too!   Most of the aftermarket replacement boards are using MOSFETs except for a few holdouts whose quality suffers in other areas too.   Still for the OP who has a CHEXX game the TIP120 should last forever, it has at most a 1A draw, and we have never replaced one in the 30 odd years I've been servicing CHEXX boards.   John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 14 02:57PM -0700 On Thursday, September 14, 2017 at 1:10:23 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote: > (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) > www.flippers.com > "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."     From about 1982 until he sold the company about 8 years ago, I did all the electrical work for a vendor who became a very good friend of mine. The vast majority of the work I did for him were monitor failures. Most of the electrical work he did was swapping out game boards, converting cabinets and replacing hard drives. He would shop the pinballs as they were rotated or were pulled for failures and if there was a problem beyond lamps, rubbers, solenoids etc. I'd get the board.   I rarely saw shorted Darlingtons. I agree that MosFets are better suited to switching, but other than upgrading the ratings of the replacements, we never felt the need to do wholesale replacements of Darlingtons that would most likely last the life of the game. It was far easier to deal with them individually.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 14 03:15PM -0700 On 2017/09/14 2:57 PM, John-Del wrote: >> --   > From about 1982 until he sold the company about 8 years ago, I did all the electrical work for a vendor who became a very good friend of mine. The vast majority of the work I did for him were monitor failures. Most of the electrical work he did was swapping out game boards, converting cabinets and replacing hard drives. He would shop the pinballs as they were rotated or were pulled for failures and if there was a problem beyond lamps, rubbers, solenoids etc. I'd get the board.   > I rarely saw shorted Darlingtons. I agree that MosFets are better suited to switching, but other than upgrading the ratings of the replacements, we never felt the need to do wholesale replacements of Darlingtons that would most likely last the life of the game. It was far easier to deal with them individually.   I hear what you are saying, but when you run into boards where most of the transistors show signs of overheating the PCB (Atari lamp driver Aux board for example) then one considers replacing the old BJTs with more modern devices to improve the expected lifespan.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

michaelmail90@gmail.com: Sep 14 09:39AM -0700 Il giorno sabato 27 febbraio 2016 13:11:14 UTC+1, Aleksandr Motsjonov ha scritto: > Thank you mate. Will read it carefully and do my best! > Here is couple more photos with overall picture, back of this central boards set (With connector from FRC pin out) > https://goo.gl/photos/FHLZtEyEj3QCFGMu5   i haven the same problem, do you have resolve ?

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