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"Percival P. Cassidy" <Nobody@NotMyISP.net>: Sep 16 12:17PM -0400 On 09/11/2017 08:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > look for problems. It's a bit tricky to get it to print while > disassembled, but not impossible.   > Good luck 2.0.   Even though I could detect no sign of stickiness on the other two solenoids, and no residual magnetism on any of them, I gave all of them the recommended treatment, and now the printer is printed double-sided without problems.   Thank you.   Perce

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 16 10:55AM +0100 On Sat, 16 Sep 2017 01:07:50 +1000, Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com> wrote:   <snip> >>>> wondered if anyone could confirm the part number for the barrel >>>> please? I believe it's '0051031199' but I thought I'd check before >>>> ordering.   <snip>   >even with the thread tightened all the way, it does not grip the >soldering bit tightly so it wobbles and probably doesn't conduct heat >all that well. I'd say it is not usable like that.   Hmm, my replacement barrel arrived today (next day, thanks Rapid Electronics Ltd <g>) and if screwed on finger tight, the tip seems to be pretty solid, so I wonder if there is still more to it (like the tip dimensions)?   The other question is do we generally put any sort of thermal / anti seize paste on these things please, or would pretty well anything simply burn off?   Cheers, T i m

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Sep 16 07:54AM -0400 Hello,   Just so you know, the tip number indicates temperature in Fahrenheit. 6=600, 7=700, 8=800. Many US suppliers such as Mouser.com and Digikey.com stock parts for these older Weller products. I'd guess someone like Farnell in the UK would as well. In general I use a 700 degree tip.   On 9/14/2017 9:45 AM, T i m wrote:

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 16 05:03PM +0100 On 16/09/2017 12:54, Tim Schwartz wrote: >> for cutting synthetic rope, however I was wondering if there was a >> mode modern workhorse general purpose iron that could match the PU-1D >> for reliability and spares access etc?   If we're talking magnastats here, never throw away a bit without removing the magnastat, quite easy to swage-fit to another bit of right form but wrong temp.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Sep 15 02:36PM -0400 >> details.   > Interesting, I will observe that I put two or three gallons > of gas through my chain saw in a year. And about 500 through my car.   Sounds about right. That shows you how much they've cleaned up auto exhaust. It also shows how dirty 2-cycle engines are to start with.   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Sep 15 02:41PM -0400 > bar oil, replace with fuel mix, run the saw without the bar attached > until the fuel mix starts coming out, and the dump the fuel and > replace with bar oil. His advice was good.   How do you tell when the bar lube is blocked? I had a saw and was never sure, so I'd stop it periodically and lube the bar. I only used it once in a blue moon so rather than deal with the hassles I gave it to a friend. Now he doesn't want me to borrow it, lol.   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

"malua mada!" <fritzo2ster@gmail.com>: Sep 15 12:22PM -0700 Starting my Stihl(s)... Deep breath, lift the saw to about chest height, then yank up with the left while *dropping* the saw with the right, for added speed. Starting with the saw stationary is harder for me.   About a year ago I bought me a MSA 160c which is a battery powered saw (now superseded I think) and OH! While pricey as hell & small it is competent and pleasant to work with. Doesn't stink. Starts as long as there is charge in the pack. No noise unless it is doing work. My most used saw now. It starts with the pull of its trigger :-)

ggherold@gmail.com: Sep 15 12:23PM -0700 On Friday, September 15, 2017 at 12:01:17 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > He also notes that battery powered tools are a slick way around the > emissions problems. I've been thinking of converting an AC powered > electric chain saw to running on battery power. Yet another projet.   Battery powered is certainly an option. I've got a few mikita battery powered tools. The wife couldn't use the chain saw but wanted to trim up small stuff.. (say a max of ~4" diameter.) I bought her a makita battery powered chain saw*. Now even I use. It's lighter and only runs when your are cutting something. I   George H. *as a birthday present.. I know I'm a bit of a stinker buying tools for the wife for her birthday, but in my defense she really likes it! And the trails through our woods are well manicured.

ggherold@gmail.com: Sep 15 12:25PM -0700 On Friday, September 15, 2017 at 2:41:36 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote: > > until the fuel mix starts coming out, and the dump the fuel and > > replace with bar oil. His advice was good.   > How do you tell when the bar lube is blocked? You blow through a tank of gas and the oil reservoir is still full.   GH I had a saw and was never

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Sep 15 04:28PM -0400 >>> replace with bar oil. His advice was good.   >> How do you tell when the bar lube is blocked? > You blow through a tank of gas and the oil reservoir is still full.   There's a problem. I would never fill the oil reservoir because I would never use it enough to empty it and it would leak everywhere the saw sat.   When you cleaned the oiler by filling with gas and dumping it, where did you dump it? That was my other problem, emptying the tank when I was done with it for the year or two...   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

etpm@whidbey.com: Sep 15 01:49PM -0700 >sure, so I'd stop it periodically and lube the bar. I only used it once in >a blue moon so rather than deal with the hassles I gave it to a friend. Now >he doesn't want me to borrow it, lol. One pretty good indication is when the saw runs out of fuel and the bar oil tank is still almost full. The saw is designed to use fuel a little faster than bar oil. I imagine all modern chain saws are designed this way. So when the saw runs out of gas both the fuel tank and the bar oil get filled. Another indication of lack of bar oil is that the bar will get hot and you will see sap on the bar starting to brown or even smoke. Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: Sep 15 01:58PM -0700 >When you cleaned the oiler by filling with gas and dumping it, where did you >dump it? That was my other problem, emptying the tank when I was done with >it for the year or two... The bar oil that was in the tank went back into the bar oil jug. The fuel mix that I dumped was used as fire starter for the pile of small branches and leaves that are too small to stack for firewood. Every time I cut up trees there are lots of small branches to get rid of and they get burned in our fire ring. As do the blackberry and salmon berry canes. We live on 10 wooded acres and have only about 1 acre cleared. But keeping that one acre free of berry canes means lots of canes get burned every year. And I never run out of firewood because it seems like there is always a hemlock or two that blows down or an alder or three that needs to be cut down because the tree(s) has become dangerous. Eric

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 15 12:36PM -0700 On Thursday, September 14, 2017 at 6:15:15 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote: > board for example) then one considers replacing the old BJTs with more > modern devices to improve the expected lifespan.   > John :-#)#   Wow, that triggered an old memory. I do remember adding heatsinks to all the TO-202 free standing driver transistors on certain boards many years ago, but don't recall which one. Stern pin maybe?   But I suppose changing all the transistors over to mosfets in 30 year old games in 2017 is analogous to doing wholesale capacitor replacement in old radios. I guess age catches up to everything.

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