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T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 16 06:18PM +0100 On Sat, 16 Sep 2017 07:54:32 -0400, Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com> wrote:   >Hello,   Hi Tim, ;-)   > Just so you know, the tip number indicates temperature in Fahrenheit.   Ah, so I'm guessing Weller is American? It's funny, whilst I was born into a mostly imperial measurement world and was then merged into metric, one of the few things I don't ever think I ever used is Fahrenheit scale (maybe early tropical fish stuff)? I guess that's because it's scale doesn't relate to anything tangible to me, like the freezing and boiling points of water etc?   >6=600, 7=700, 8=800.   <conversion> ah, 6=315, 7=370 and 8=425 DegC (although I agree those numbers don't have such a ring to them and would be difficult to mark on a tip). ;-)   >Many US suppliers such as Mouser.com and >Digikey.com stock parts for these older Weller products.   There seem to be a few places in the UK as well Tim.   >I'd guess >someone like Farnell in the UK would as well.   Yes, and we also have eBay etc where the odd good thing comes up. ;-)   >In general I use a 700 >degree tip.   I've just fired my iron up with the new barrel and tinned the ends of a couple of bits of stranded copper cable with my 6 tip and it seemed to do so very easily. Maybe a 7 would be required if using unleaded solder (which I'm not)?   I have a couple of 7's on their way so I can see how they compare on my iron.   Cheers, T i m

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 16 06:34PM +0100 On Sat, 16 Sep 2017 17:03:05 +0100, N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:   <snip>   >If we're talking magnastats here,   I think we are (if that's what the Weller Curie Point temperature switch system is called). [1]   > never throw away a bit without >removing the magnastat, quite easy to swage-fit to another bit of right >form but wrong temp.   Ah, and that explains the 'waisting' I saw on my existing (and only) tip. Good tip. ;-)   Cheers, T i m   [1] Just looking up Curie Point science again it explains what was happening the other day. When the iron was cold and the permanent magnetic field was high in the tip it held itself into the element (the end of the barrel was worn oversize and didn't retain the tip) until it warmed up and then would fall out, just as it was up to temperature. ;-)

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Sep 17 10:36PM +1000 On 17/09/2017 03:18, T i m wrote:   > a couple of bits of stranded copper cable with my 6 tip and it seemed > to do so very easily. Maybe a 7 would be required if using unleaded > solder (which I'm not)?   Also check that the element switches off with no tip in it. The mechanical switch that is operated by the magnet can get stuck/seized, meaning that the iron gets much hotter than it should regardless of which tip is in it. It's entirely possible that a properly working iron with a number 6 tip is hot enough for what you are doing, but if you find that it is too hot then perhaps the switch is stuck.   Chris

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Sep 17 10:39PM +1000 On 16/09/2017 19:55, T i m wrote: > Electronics Ltd <g>) and if screwed on finger tight, the tip seems to > be pretty solid, so I wonder if there is still more to it (like the > tip dimensions)?   Ok, that's good. Maybe they made more different sorts than the ones that I have. I'm pleased that it worked. I'm curious whether your new barrel is larger in diameter than your old one.     > The other question is do we generally put any sort of thermal / anti > seize paste on these things please, or would pretty well anything > simply burn off? I guess you could use copper grease or aluminium grease and though the grease part would probably burn out and smell and make a mess, the metal particles ought to remain. I doubt it is necessary and I've never used anything like that on a soldering iron. The only ones that I have had get really stuck were Antex ones. I think that if you just disassemble it occasionally either to change tips or just to inspect it, that should prevent it getting seized up (and if it does you would catch it before it is impossible to remove).

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 17 02:35PM +0100 On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 22:39:49 +1000, Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com> wrote:   <snip>   >> tip dimensions)?   >Ok, that's good. Maybe they made more different sorts than the ones that >I have. I'm pleased that it worked.   Me too. ;-)   >I'm curious whether your new barrel >is larger in diameter than your old one.   Yes, it is. >grease part would probably burn out and smell and make a mess, the metal >particles ought to remain. I doubt it is necessary and I've never used >anything like that on a soldering iron.   Then that is probably my answer Chris. ;-)   >it occasionally either to change tips or just to inspect it, that should >prevent it getting seized up (and if it does you would catch it before >it is impossible to remove).   Understood.   Thanks again, cheers, T i m

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 17 02:46PM +0100 On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 22:36:44 +1000, Chris Jones >which tip is in it. It's entirely possible that a properly working iron >with a number 6 tip is hot enough for what you are doing, but if you >find that it is too hot then perhaps the switch is stuck.   I'm ahead of you there. When I was still at BT (so 40 yeas ago now!) I modded my PU-1D base with a front mounted red LED that goes on when the element is on (and it's still working). ;-)   So, if it was stuck on (or off) I'd soon see it in the 'activity' LED (and have in the past when a small tap on the element seems to cure it, typically stuck off).   Your good point is noted though. ;-)   Cheers, T i m   p.s. JOOI ... I've just timed the iron heating from cold (20 DegC ambient) to the 600 DegF (315 C) tipped iron heating till the LED goes off and it was 55 seconds.

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Sep 18 12:18AM +1000 On 17/09/2017 23:35, T i m wrote:   >> I'm curious whether your new barrel >> is larger in diameter than your old one.   > Yes, it is. Ok, thanks. That confirms that it is a new-style barrel. I guess there are more types of element and barrel than I know about.   >> it is impossible to remove).   > Understood.   > Thanks again, cheers, T i m   I'm glad to hear you got it working though I don't think I was much help.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 17 03:23PM +0100 On 16/09/2017 18:34, T i m wrote: > (the end of the barrel was worn oversize and didn't retain the tip) > until it warmed up and then would fall out, just as it was up to > temperature. ;-)   While at it , if your one is like mine and lacks an indication , other than slight clicks, that the magnastat is functioning. With a selected collection of zeners and diodes it is possible to put a droppered LED, across the AC supply line. Unfortunately LED off when iron is on (supply loaded), but at least , it shows the switch is not stuck on.

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 17 04:37PM +0100 On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 00:18:35 +1000, Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com> wrote:   <snip>   >I'm glad to hear you got it working though I don't think I was much help.   Sometimes just having someone to open up new trains of thought or considering new / other possibilities are all it takes Chris. ;-)   Cheers, T i m

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 17 04:53PM +0100 On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 15:23:46 +0100, N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:   <snip>   >> temperature. ;-)   >While at it , if your one is like mine and lacks an indication , other >than slight clicks, that the magnastat is functioning.   That's how it was designed but I was reminded when talking to Chris that I modified mine 40 years ago with a red LED in the front that comes on when the element is drawing current.   >droppered LED, across the AC supply line. >Unfortunately LED off when iron is on (supply loaded), but at least , it >shows the switch is not stuck on.   Ah, my LED definitely comes on when the heated element comes on but I can't remember how I got there?   I do know I built, assembled and fitted it and it could have been co-designed by one of my co-workers at BT at the time.   Cheers, T i m

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 16 08:23PM -0700 >cover. I am pretty sure the Ez2Start assembly can be added to your >saw. It looks like you just swap the starter cover without the EZ >start with the EZ start caover assembly.   It won't work. Apparently it also requires a new flywheel and starter assembly. There's no conversion kit available. Here's an article (2 pages) with the details on how it went on a Stihl MS250 saw. <http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/converting-stihl-ms250-to-ez-start.231966/> Account required to view the PDF's.   >stuff like starting high compression engines is hard on them. But I >also live on 10 wooded acres and need to saw stuff up, like when a >tree blows down and blocks the driveway.   Glad it works for you. I'm still in fairly good shape so hopefully that won't be a requirement for me. However, I'm lazy and would probably buy an electric start conversion if there were such a thing. I've often thought a removable ratcheting hand crank start, like in my former Land Rover Series IIa might be easier than a string pull.   I live in an overgrown redwood and douglas fir forest. However, my days of dropping trees are in the distant past. These days it's construction scrap, clearing smaller trees, brush clearing, and trimming oversized firewood. I probably spend more time repairing other people's saws than using my own.   Sigh. I big branch came down in the last storm. While cleaning off the roof today, I noticed it had bashed in the 2x6 T&G roof and split one board. Tomorrow will be dedicated to gluing the mess back together. Yet another normal day in the deep dark forest. <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/home/>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 16 08:47PM -0700 >How do you tell when the bar lube is blocked?   Remove the bar and chain. Chain oil comes out of a hole that mates with a corresponding hole in the bar that only goes half way through the bar (i.e. the hole is only on one side of the bar). Run the saw without the bar, chain, or cover, for about 60 seconds. You should see oil slowly dripping or exiting as a small mist out of the hole in the body. If nothing comes out, it's clogged further upstream or the pump is trashed. Lots of YouTube videos on testing and fixing chainsaw oilers: <https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=chainsaw+oiler>   More common is that the oil hole in the bar is clogged with a mixture of oil, dirt, and sawdust. This would probably be a good time to clean out the bar groove, dress the bar, remove the sharp edges, flatten any dings, lube the sprocket, etc. <https://www.google.com/search?q=chainsaw+bar+maintenance> No need for the specialized tools. Just a scraper that fits in the groove, hand file, and trisquare. If the lack of oil has caused the bottom of the side plates on the chain to wear and the edges of the bar to mushroom into sharp edges, you may need to have the bar squared and the groove deepened.   Also, it helps to flip over the bar to extend the wear life. Most people don't like the way the saw looks with the manufacturers name inverted on the bar, but that's a small price to pay for extending the life of the bar.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Sep 17 01:01AM -0700 Jeff Liebermann wrote: >On Tue, 12 Sep 2017 03:08:01 -0700 (PDT), bruce2...@gmail.com wrote:   >Book? This is the 21st century. Today, we do web pages, blogs, >forums, wikis, YouTube tutorials, online courses, and online reading. >Books are an anachronism.   What do you think still keeps Barnes and Noble and all of the classrooms still churning? Ask about them when you go by the applied sciences dept. at the local college.   (you are familiar with continuing ed., right?)

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 16 08:52PM -0700 On Sat, 16 Sep 2017 12:17:57 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy" >solenoids, and no residual magnetism on any of them, I gave all of them >the recommended treatment, and now the printer is printed double-sided >without problems.   Nicely done. I assume the noise is also gone. I'm rather surprised you didn't find any magnetized solenoids, because every one had the problem to some degree. However, if you fix the pads so that there's no metal-on-metal when the solenoid closes, the effect of the residual magnetism is negligible.   >Thank you.   Y'er welcome.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 16 07:26PM -0700 On Wednesday, 13 September 2017 14:51:04 UTC+1, Adrian Caspersz wrote:   > If so, I think I might need to make conductive and internally ground > parts of the vacuum cleaner, using metal loaded paint and/or aluminium > tape. Work that I want to avoid if possible.   What needs grounding is the nozzle/hose. If it's somewhat conductive plastic, just tying the bare mains earth wire round it would work.     NT

"~misfit~" <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Sep 17 12:49PM +1200 Once upon a time on usenet rickman wrote:   >> I didn't say they aren't here, I remember that not long ago they >> weren't in the US. Are they compulsory in the back seats too?   > http://bfy.tw/DuT3   So that's a no then. How backwards. They've been compulsory here for quite a while with no silly age restriction complications (as well as children needing to be in approved 'car seat' survival cells to a certain age).   (BTW if you were smart you'd be a smart arse. You should have included 'rear seats' in the search parameters. I'll go back to my policy of not clicking obfuscated URLs - which for some odd reason I didn't think would be needed here.) -- Shaun.   "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM*." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) (*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Sep 16 08:58PM -0400 ~misfit~ wrote on 9/16/2017 8:49 PM: > seats' in the search parameters. I'll go back to my policy of not clicking > obfuscated URLs - which for some odd reason I didn't think would be needed > here.)   Not sure what you are reading. Traffic laws are state issues in the US although there is a certain amount of "coordination" by the Federal government. I don't know of any states which doesn't require seat belts to be worn by everyone in a vehicle. I'm not familiar with *all* of the 50 states. What did you find that says otherwise?   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

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