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N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 19 03:27PM +0100 Not been used for perhaps 8 years, tested numerous times previously in use, all fine. Go to use it again, push the test button and flash and a bang. The 1/8 watt dropper that is switched in on test, connected to supply side (240V here), partly burnt up and burned up thin traces. That 1/8 W presumably MO resistor now measures about 1.8K, residul green and brown bands, as 30mA trip, presumably was 510K. Would there be metalisation creep associated with a MO resistor? or how else could a MO resistor initially fail by "losing" ohms? Obviously it would not have dropped to 1.8K in storage, just low enough to overheat during half a second or so of powering, then runaway/sputtering.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Sep 19 09:24AM -0700 If an instrument is "rode hard, put away wet", then there could be all sorts of failure modes from salts creep across some leads, corroded traces (especially across SMT chip connections) and similar. Where the failure showed up is not necessarily the first-cause.   I have seen situations (as recently as this last weekend) where an individual carried a tube tuner from his car to my clinic table in Kutztown for testing. What he did not understand was that it was a very hot and humid day, and he was dripping seriously through the cover into the guts. I did notice the sweat and cleaned it off before applying power. But had I not noticed - between the salts in the sweat and them corroding traces, can you say *POW*. Note that should there be some source of salts, these are naturally deliquescent - every time the humidity rises, the damage will go further.   Just a thought.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Sep 19 09:22AM -0700 ~misfit~ wrote: >money became more and more important it became necessary for there >to be financiers but christians weren't going to risk lending their >money free of charge. So jews were invited   >Yet how do we thank them? By making thinly-veiled anti-semetic >jokes in electronics repair groups (and probably other places as >well).   Bigoted trolls will always be around. Just avoid them. Just ignore them.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 19 03:28PM +0100 Anyone a member/ knowledge of any pitfalls or tips? I'm thinking of joining a local one as an electronic repairer. They have their own insurance cover. Some things like electric blankets, hair curling tongs are definite no-nos, talking to one of the electrical/electronic repairers.

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Sep 19 04:27PM +0100 N_Cook wrote:   > Anyone a member Ask again in uk.d-i-y and Andrew Gabriel might reply ...

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Sep 19 07:20AM -0700 I would like to test my 9V, C, D, AA, and AAA under the proper load. I don't know what that would be for each size though. I want to build a little test fixture for this with a meter and the appropriate load connected for each size. Can someone please tell me what the appropriate loads would be. Thanks, Lenny

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 19 08:01AM -0700 On Tue, 19 Sep 2017 07:20:39 -0700 (PDT), captainvideo462009@gmail.com wrote:   >I would like to test my 9V, C, D, AA, and AAA under the proper load. I don't know what that would be for each size though. I want to build a little test fixture for this with a meter and the appropriate load connected for each size. Can someone please tell me what the appropriate loads would be. Thanks, Lenny   Well, you could try bouncing the cells: <http://gizmodo.com/an-amazingly-simple-way-to-test-if-a-battery-is-dead-1138197569> <https://lifehacker.com/test-if-your-batteries-are-dead-by-dropping-them-on-a-h-1630525062> I tried it and couldn't make it work, but maybe you'll have better luck.   Lots of commercial alkaline battery testers available. I have one of these: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amprobe-BAT200-Battery-Tester-/282415287281>   There are quite a few do it thyself battery tester construction articles. Pick whichever looks good: <https://www.google.com/search?q=build+alkaline+battery+tester>   Note: I've on a campaign to purge from my life as many alkaline batteries as possible. I'm tired of leaky batteries destroying my equipment. <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/Kirkland-AAA-leak.jpg> Mostly, I'm switching to LiIon. Where that's not possible, LSD (low self discharge) NiMH cells. If the device will not run on NiMH, it gets recycled.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Sep 19 08:30AM +0800 > The Troll is back. Please don't feed the troll.   So piss off then !!

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Sep 19 01:39PM +1000 On 18/09/2017 11:30 AM, Phil Allison wrote:   > The material sets harder than most glues, like contact adhesive or rubber/silicone glue.   > Beside fast curing, the big advantage of CA glue is how it whets and penetrates into small gaps and pores in a materials before setting.   > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate#Properties   **GOOD QUALITY CA glue is an excellent product for a variety of uses. This is the stuff I've been using:   http://www.pascofix.com/   Of particular interest is this stuff (Pascofill):   http://www.pascofix.com/pasco-fix-instructions/   It allows for the building of fillets, thus making VERY strong joints, when only small surface area is available. Since the Pascofix glue ran out, I switched to Loctite, which I find excellent.       -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 18 11:47PM +0100 On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 23:06:17 +1000, Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com> wrote:   <snip> >> can't remember how I got there?   >Oh well, I was hoping to find out how you did it. I can think of a few >ways but none of them are very elegant.   Just for you Chris, I took the bottom off my PU-1D and took a couple of pictures of what I found inside. ;-)   https://www.dropbox.com/s/x4g0txwl813e0vn/PU-1D%20mod%201.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/x8lvblyq4qyn8me/PU-1D%20mod%202.jpg?dl=0   I think (because it's wrapped up in tape) there is a big electrolytic cap in there as well.   I'm not sure the pictures help but as you can see it's not just a couple of components but I'm not sure I'd go as far as to call it elegant (especially the soldering as I was probably supposed to be 'working' when I did it). ;-)   Cheers, T i m

etpm@whidbey.com: Sep 18 09:57AM -0700 On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 19:55:50 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   >A little digging found a replacement bar and chain on eBay: ><http://www.ebay.com/itm/192054090789> >For $19 and a 4-6 week wait, it seems like a tolerable risk. The guy at the Stihl store told me I can put a different and longer bar on mine. So I'm gonna do what you did. The skinny chain also does not cut as fast as the .05 chain because of the safety anti-kickback feature in the skinny chain. I bought the fastest cutting .043 chain I could find but it still doesn't cut as fast as the non-kickback chain does. BTW, I have been using chain saws for about 40 years and have always tried to be safe. I always tried hard to avoid kickback after I saw the scars on a fellow worker's arm from a saw kicking back. I never, until this last summer, had a saw kick back hard enough that it got even close to a body part. But it finally happened and the chain brake worked just like it was supposed to. Even if the chain had hit me it would have been stopped. Those brakes are a great idea. I never set the saw down without first engaging the brake. Eric

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 18 10:31AM -0700 >>For $19 and a 4-6 week wait, it seems like a tolerable risk.   >The guy at the Stihl store told me I can put a different and longer >bar on mine. So I'm gonna do what you did.   The stock bar is 16" while the most common replacements mentioned are 14". There seems to be some variation in the way the bars are measured. If you look at the video above, the 14" bar appears to be only about 1" shorter, not 2". I ordered a 14" bar because I couldn't find a cheap 16" bar and chain and I have a big saw with a 24" bar. Trying to drive a long bar with only a 32cc engine is not going to work well.   >feature in the skinny chain. I bought the fastest cutting .043 chain I >could find but it still doesn't cut as fast as the non-kickback chain >does.   Thanks. I've never tried a low-kickback chain. I have a bar nose kickback protection plate on some of my bars. They work, but prevents me from cutting oversized logs. Otherwise, I'm just careful not to dig the nose into the ground or notch in the cut.   >BTW, I have been using chain saws for about 40 years and have always >tried to be safe.   My involvement with chainsaws started when I bought this house in 1973. That would be 44 years. However, I'm getting too old for doing my own firewood and have been buying my firewood for exorbitant prices.   >worked just like it was supposed to. Even if the chain had hit me it >would have been stopped. Those brakes are a great idea. I never set >the saw down without first engaging the brake.   I've been lucky so far but have had a few close calls. The chain brake saved me once, but that was enough. Oddly, I have had more near accidents when starting a chainsaw than running one. I tend to get sloppy when tired and it shows when starting. These days, I always start a saw on the ground, not tree climber style in the air. I should lock the brake more often, but often forget.   Good luck and I'll let you know how the bar and chain transplant work.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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