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Amanda Ripanykhazov <dmanzaluni@gmail.com>: Sep 24 07:32AM -0700 Is there some overwhelming technical problem with replacing a Priv screen please?   All screen replacement services are MASSIVELY expensive (the LCD alone seems to cost $180) and places like ebay are full of Privs on which the owners seemingly cant replace their cracked screens?   Curiously, ebay sales are rife with digitiser offers, - where the digitiser cant actually be replaced because it cant practically be separated from the LCD! What is going on?? On every other cellphone the repair cost nose-dives when the phone stops being current!

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Sep 24 04:04PM +0100 On Sun, 24 Sep 2017 07:32:38 -0700 (PDT), Amanda Ripanykhazov   >Is there some overwhelming technical problem with replacing a Priv screen please?   >All screen replacement services are MASSIVELY expensive (the LCD alone seems to cost $180) and places like ebay are full of Privs on which the owners seemingly cant replace their cracked screens?   >Curiously, ebay sales are rife with digitiser offers, - where the digitiser cant actually be replaced because it cant practically be separated from the LCD! What is going on?? On every other cellphone the repair cost nose-dives when the phone stops being current!   Watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRj_F7b4JvE   It looks a bit tricky with my jumbo fingers!   -- http://www.npsnn.com

Amanda Ripanykhazov <dmanzaluni@gmail.com>: Sep 24 08:54AM -0700 Thank you for that but this makes the question even more baffling! The screen-only repair is not difficult, in fact not only is it easy, it is a 5-10 minute job!   why on earth is it so expensive? I can't believe that this screen is made by any different company from galaxy/iphone/etc screens?

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 23 09:52AM -0700 >> necessary.   >Oh, you've found a zener that's 10v +/- 1%? >NT   The meter isn't even that accurate. You're not going to be able to read the meter to +/- 0.1V. Also, I coulnd't find where anyone specified the accuracy required.   If you really want 1% accuracy, maybe a 10.0V precision reference, such as the TI REF102: <http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ref102.pdf> However, there's a problem. The IC requires a V+ of 11.4-36VDC which will probably require a battery or other power supply.   Hmmm... I sorta blundered across this idea: <http://www.qsl.net/kh6grt/page4/expscale/expscale.htm> It doesn't expand the entire meter scale from 10-15VDC. Instead, it compresses 0-10V into a small part of the meter scale, and expands the 10-15V over the rest of the scale. However, it requires +12v and -12v power.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 23 10:46AM -0700 On Saturday, 23 September 2017 17:35:36 UTC+1, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > >fails to solve the issue AND adds pointless cost. > >NT   > The consensus seems to be to use an expanded scale analog voltmeter.   that's part of the spec   > If the OP is going to build such a thing, he needs a new scale on his > analog meter.   yes   > That can be done with the free version of the software. > (I just checked and it will do an expanded scale).   it can   > I usually ignore one line pontifications, but I'm curious. Why does a > new meter scale fail to solve the issue? Ummm... what issue?   The issue with using an inaccurate zener is that the meter scale most likely won't run from 10.0v, and will thus need calibrating over its scale. That also means a new scale with marks in new places - a pita to do. Far easier to knock off 10v exactly then just change the numbers on the scale.     NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 23 10:58AM -0700 On Saturday, 23 September 2017 17:52:35 UTC+1, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > >Oh, you've found a zener that's 10v +/- 1%? > >NT   > The meter isn't even that accurate.   We don't know the meter's accuracy. 1% is common enough, but it might be worse. (For all we know it might even be a moving iron thing.)   > You're not going to be able to > read the meter to +/- 0.1V.   Even my most rock bottom multimeters, under $3 each new, are easy to read to 1%. Decent meters do much better.   > Instead, it compresses 0-10V into a small part of the meter scale, and > expands the 10-15V over the rest of the scale. However, it requires > +12v and -12v power.   Nice idea, though I don't expect the op needs it. I'm sure one could design a circuit that can use opamps that are happy on the 10-15v and halve V_in.     NT

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Sep 24 04:05AM -0700 On 9/22/2017 1:29 AM, T i m wrote: > the question. I left it open to the reader to ask any supplementary > questions as they felt relevant. ;-)   > Cheers, T i m   Metrology is an interesting topic.   When someone asks me how to measure something, my first thought is, "exactly how will the answer to your question improve YOUR life tomorrow?" Sometimes I actually say it. The "jolt" to their thought process forces them to express what they're trying to accomplish...or admit to themselves that they have no idea. I find that almost all questions end up in the "won't affect them at all" category and I can dispense with trying to teach them something they'll never use. If the answer won't change the future, don't bother with the question.   It's similar to pointless social interaction. People you don't know ask questions, like "how are you?" They think they know what you'll say. Respond with something like, "I have this rash on my dick and think I need to find a different street corner... got any ideas?" to see how much they really care about how you are. ;-) But I digress...   If I had an electric boat, the ability to measure voltage to six decimal places would not be my priority. What I want to know is, "can I get back to the dock?" You can do that more accurately with a sharpie and nonlinear meter than you can react to a change in wind direction.   The river current and wind and the shape of the curve of distance covered vs velocity and temperature would be far more important variables to me. Amp hours consumed would be important.   Battery voltage that would be strongly impacted by whether I'm going up or down stream at what net velocity is a poor substitute.   An integrating current meter, a water speed speedometer and a GPS would much more interesting. If you knew the water flow direction and speed, you probably wouldn't have to measure anything else other than what you can get from the GPS. Drifting downstream for a minute would give you those two numbers.   But, since you're dead set on measuring voltage... The basic problem is that the voltage you want to measure is the biggest voltage you have to power your circuit. That's why I split my original post into the concept (battery) and the implementation (zener). A series zener needs to draw ZERO current at 10V and still be 10V at MUCH higher current ratio. You will have to live with some amount of nonlinearity.   You could stack an AA-cell or two on top of your battery system and alleviate that problem.   I maintain that a digital voltmeter is the best option. They're dirt cheap on EBAY.   All the above is based on an extreme extrapolation of very limited information. That's why the system spec is so important.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 24 06:31AM -0700 On Sunday, 24 September 2017 12:06:45 UTC+1, mike wrote:   > A series zener needs to draw ZERO current at 10V and still > be 10V at MUCH higher current ratio. You will have to live > with some amount of nonlinearity.   In fact you could re-zero the meter so it reads 10v spot on. Add an extra mark for where it points when unpowered so you can see if it ever decalibrates.     > You could stack an AA-cell or two on top of your battery system > and alleviate that problem.   yuck. 2 resistors beats 2 cells any day.   > I maintain that a digital voltmeter is the best option. > They're dirt cheap on EBAY.   but noncompliant with the basic spec     NT

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Sep 23 10:59PM -0400 People on Amazon ask some of the stupidest questions (he said, as he's about to ask one).   I"m looking at a panel-mount extension cord for a car radio with USB and 3.5mm inputs, and someone asks "could i use this to connect a usb headset to the 3.5mm headphone jack on my tv?"   And all the answers related to the fact that it uses two unconnected cables, and about converting from one jack to another, and I thought the problem was deeper than that, that there is no way to make an adapter from the audio output of a 3.5mm jack to a USB headset, because, well, it's USB! It's uses some sort of fancy USB signal, like all the other USB devices do. It doesn't have L+, R+ and ground, like earphones with round plugs on the end have. OR does it?   BTW, I use little powered Logitech USB speakers with my laptop and they get their power from the USB, and they work very well. If I'm wrong above, does the power piggyback on one of the 3 wires or does it use the fourth wire?   Tnx.

"~misfit~" <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Sep 25 02:15AM +1300 Once upon a time on usenet micky wrote: > they get their power from the USB, and they work very well. If I'm > wrong above, does the power piggyback on one of the 3 wires or does > it use the fourth wire?   Maybe the 5th - the shield ground? -- Shaun.   "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM*." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) (*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)

"~misfit~" <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Sep 25 02:11AM +1300 Once upon a time on usenet Percival P. Cassidy wrote: > will depend on how densely it's packed -- could be as little as 5 oz. > rather than the 8 oz. that the "pint's a pound the world around" > formula indicates.   At school I was taught 'A pint of water weighs a pound-and-a-quarter'. Then again that was in England. -- Shaun.   "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM*." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) (*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)

Paul in Houston TX <Paul@Houston.Texas>: Sep 23 12:30PM -0500 micky wrote: > the car speakers and an add-on microphone (in addition to the first > $150).   > The most important feature for me is the USB input.   Forget the input jack and use FM wireless. Search Ebay.   IMO, bluetooth phone in a vehicle does not work very well. The outgoing sounds are muffled, distorted, and hard to understand. However, if you want to send music from your ipod to the vehicle audio it works well enough.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Sep 23 09:00PM -0400 In rec.autos.tech, on Sat, 23 Sep 2017 11:01:57 -0400, micky   >There are one or two other companies that sell devices that have >everything but the USB input, and I found something on ebay that had >everything and was only $18.   Correction: It only has USB and AUX. When I came across it, totally by chance, I didn't think I could add on even that much. I thought I'd have to buy a newer radio, and I certainly hadn't considered Bluetooth.     >case it works, but based on the pictures, I don't think I could find one >that fit my particular jack. Hmm. Now it says "Only 4 available" and >the price has gone up to $20.   Correction, now for this particular car, it says 0 available but good news, the price is down to $18.     If you want to look for more, the search terms are car kit . I find that amazing considering there must be kits for all sorts of things, but apparently they don't get to use the term car kit.   Crutchfield has 13 things, not all with good reviews: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-gdyc2ktbWNt/g_324750/Bluetooth-Car-Adapters-Hands-free-Kits.html I can't find the one I looked at before, unless it was the one for 89 dollars   but there are loads of other by lots of companies running from $40 to 270. the last one includes HD radio, but for that you have to mount an antenna a little smaller than a bic lighter inside the windshield or so.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Sep 23 10:50PM -0400 In rec.autos.tech, on Sat, 23 Sep 2017 12:30:27 -0500, Paul in Houston >> $150).   >> The most important feature for me is the USB input.   >Forget the input jack and use FM wireless. Search Ebay.   Do you mean something like this:   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-Music-to-Car-Radio-FM-Transmitter-For-3-5mm-MP3-iPod-iPhone-Tablets-US-/172506628087?hash=item282a323ff7:g:6qoAAOSwImRYjlrj   Or this one is ridiculously cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/381848425256?chn=ps&dispItem=1 ? this uses a 3.5mm input from a cell phone, but I don't think I'll be using a cell phone. I can't afford unlimited data. Most likely I'll be dl'ing podcasts and putting them on a flashdrive. Although I have to say it might be worth buying this anyhow. It's only $2.85 with free shipping! OT3H I found a half dozen seller who'd sold over 1000 and only 1 review came back! He said it broke after a month. ;-)   How can cellphone makers consider getting rid of the 3.5mm jack with so many things that use it? >The outgoing sounds are muffled, distorted, and hard to understand. >However, if you want to send music from your ipod to the vehicle >audio it works well enough.   Actually, the radio itself has plenty of music and I just want to send talk, downloaded podcasts. That requires even less quality, iiuc.

Paul in Houston TX <Paul@Houston.Texas>: Sep 23 11:37PM -0500 micky wrote: > might be worth buying this anyhow. It's only $2.85 with free shipping! > OT3H I found a half dozen seller who'd sold over 1000 and only 1 review > came back! He said it broke after a month. ;-)   What is a "flashdrive"? If it is a usb stick then there are devices to play usb music with fm. My son had one in his last car but I don't know which brand. It worked pretty good.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bluetooth-Wireless-Car-Aux-Stereo-Usb-Charger-Audio-Receiver-Fm-Radio-Sd-Adapter/382234256138?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=47507&meid=48182c1016f24b978496634f4e4d0ba8&pid=100623&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=192247227744&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bluetooth-Wireless-Car-AUX-Stereo-Audio-Receiver-FM-Radio-Adapter-USB-Charger-SD-/192247227744?epid=21003076227&hash=item2cc2d3e560:g:TeIAAOSw~e5ZQEdu

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Sep 24 10:29AM > Do any of you know anything good or bad about Grom audio? Do any of you > know a competitor you would recommend (instead?)?   No comment on them but a general 2-cent comment.   Keep in mind that most of these "adapters" need power, usually by a rechargeable battery built into them and that is the major pain in the ass.   I had a 97 Lincoln that had a non-replaceable radio (amps and other parts of it were scattered all over the car), it had a cassette player and 10 disc cd changer but since you can get like 1400 mp3's on a cheap 16GB ipod, I wanted to use one of those.   They probably are still made (maybe) but there was a cassette to bluetooth adapter and it really worked well, provided it was charged up. Battery life was only 4-6 hours and it really sucked when 15 minutes into a 2 hour drive it starts beeping at you to charge it up. Back to the radio.   I'd really recommend if whatever you are looking at isn't wired into the car, forget it.   My overall recommendation is screw all these adapters and replace the radio.   I don't know what kind of car or truck you have but you should be able to find from Crutchfield, a radio, wiring harness that supports the steering wheel controls and if needed, the adapter plate (bezel) for $150 or less.   Most of those under $100 radios they sell have at least 1 usb port (the dual ones are front/back, the back if you want to run a cable somewhere), usually bluetooth and have a aux input.   My point is, it's a little more expensive than it seems you are planning on, will take at least an afternoon of work to install but once it's done, you just don't have to worry about anything. Provided you remember to bring the phone/ipod or usb stick with you, it just works.   I put up with that cassette adapter for 4-5 years and although it was worth the $35 or so it just wasn't dependable. I replaced the car earlier this year with another used Lincoln, but the at least the radio was more standard. I wanted to try that apple carplay and although it ran almost $500 for everything, I'd never get another car without it.   I'm pushing 60 and the last car radio I installed was back when dashboards were still made of steel and although it took me 3 attempts over 3 days to get everything to work right (who would of thunk to attach the tripwire for the amps to the power antenna lead from the radio), I'd do it again in a heartbeat.   I stuffed all the wiring via the shift tunnel into the center console thing and don't have any wires or plugs exposed. If you go on a short trip and don't plug the phone/ipod in, the radio does a search for a bluetooth connection automatically and off ya go. Can still switch tracks and control volume from the steering wheel and make hands-free phone calls.   All those adapters have their place but for long term enjoyment, replace the radio.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Sep 24 02:33AM -0700 >>> ESR.   >>> Greg   >> IIRC, you take the open circuit voltage and write it down.   You take a voltage reading under a known fixed load and write that down.   You plug those two voltage readings along with the load resistance   value into a formula (that I can't recall) and you get the internal resistance of the battery. Which voltage do you use? When you apply the load, the voltage starts to drop. So, which voltage along that curve do you use? And when you "let go", the voltage won't return to the original level. Note that the voltage at the instant you apply the load won't be available unless you use a scope, or some otherwise accurate sampling to measure it.   Great in theory, but not nearly so simple in practice.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 23 10:42AM -0700 > SIL patterns invariably have one end with a square solder pad. This just helps you recognize which end is which when you turn your board over. I don't think it has a functional significance.   We never used that convention. They were either all square or all rounded.     NT

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