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oldschool@tubes.com: Oct 09 11:35PM -0500 On Fri, 6 Oct 2017 06:00:34 -0700 (PDT), Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com> wrote:   >We're trying to figure out how to dispose of it without paying the recycling fee.   Donate it to a local rifle range. They always need targets to blast into pieces.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 10 01:42AM -0500 >> We're trying to figure out how to dispose of it without >> paying the recycling fee.   > Donate it to a local rifle range. They always need target > to blast into pieces.   Once again proving your ignorance. No rifle range in their right mind would accept that trash to shoot at. I suppose you're one of those that dump your trash along county roads at night too.   -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 10 06:07AM -0700 > Donate it to a local rifle range. They always need targets to blast into > pieces.   Wait! isn't this the guy who burns his plastic trash illegally? And then blames the "Government"?   I spent years on a shooting team in my misspent youth (and have the medals and patches to show for it). I shot on ranges from Texas to New England and points between. No range of any repute would accept any sort of trash for targets.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Peter Easthope <petereasthope@gmail.com>: Oct 09 12:14PM -0700 Hello,   A friend uses a phone, connecting to a cell tower about 10 km distant, as an access point in Tanzania. According to this map, there are LTE routers which work in N. America and part of S. America and other routers which work elsewhere in the world. http://www.worldtimezone.com/gsm.html   This TP-Link MR200 router works in Ghana. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/122151615059 I expect it to work in Tanzania as well. Can anyone confirm or deny that? Will any router work throughout the world? Or in N. America and Tanzania at least? Any additional recommendations for a router?   The connection to the distant cell tower should be better if one of the monopole antennas is replaced with a directional antenna. Any recommendations for that?   Thanks, ... Peter E.

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Oct 09 08:51PM +0100 Peter Easthope wrote:   > Will any router work throughout the world?   There are *many* LTE bands, you need to find a router which works with the same band(s) used in the country you're interested in ...   <https://www.electronics-notes.com/articles/connectivity/4g-lte-long-term-evolution/frequency-bands-channels-spectrum.php>

jack4747@gmail.com: Oct 10 01:03AM -0700 On Monday, October 9, 2017 at 9:14:14 PM UTC+2, Peter Easthope wrote:   > This TP-Link MR200 router works in Ghana.   This works very well. It also has external antennas, so if the signal is low, you can connect better antennas to improve the connection.   Bye Jack

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Oct 09 08:52PM +0100 In article <pc3ntchmttbv1jorv0ekvfk0g2jhnrh7ti@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07 @bigfoot.com says...   > Otherwise, I think I can convert the mp3's to .cda's though I haven't > found a converter yet that will do a whole directory, not just one at a > time.   Goldwave (http://goldwave.com/release.php#download) has a "Batch" conversion function. Not sure if it is available for free; I have had a licence for years.   Mike.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 09 09:44PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Mon, 9 Oct 2017 20:52:28 +0100, Mike Coon >> time.   >Goldwave (http://goldwave.com/release.php#download) has a "Batch" >conversion function.   Great. Thanks.   >Not sure if it is available for free; I have had a >licence for years.   >Mike.   I have a new plan, which is to spend more money. I made it from 65 almost to 71 without running out of money, and if I up my spending , I think I'll still be okay. (Of course for me, that's only 200 or 300 a year.)   It took me a while to find the price: US$45 (Lifetime) • US$15 (One Year)   Wow, It does a lot of things. I'll probably never do anything but conversions to CDA, and only until I get a car radio that plays MP3s, but that will probably be 6 or 7 years.   There is so much interesting stuff to do. I wish I could live another 100 years.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 09 09:51PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Mon, 9 Oct 2017 20:52:28 +0100, Mike Coon >> found a converter yet that will do a whole directory, not just one at a >> time.   >Goldwave (http://goldwave.com/release.php#download) has a "Batch"   BTW, "batch" is the word I should have been looking for. It's not like I don't know the word from IBM mainframes going back to 1977.   >conversion function. Not sure if it is available for free; I have had a >licence for years.   >Mike.   Is it ungrateful to y ou to post that if you search on   batch conversion mp3 to cda even without the word 'free' there are 3 or more free ones. So if one works well, I have the $45 for mad-money.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 10 12:30AM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Mon, 09 Oct 2017 21:51:47 -0400, micky   > batch conversion mp3 to cda   >even without the word 'free' there are 3 or more free ones. So if one >works well, I have the $45 for mad-money.   Since I was pretty much wrong about the first 3 free ones, I thought I should report back:   One would think I wouldn't still be so naive. Of the first three free ones, the first is free when it allows one to convert only half of a song. For the whole thing it's $10. Still that's not bad and they let you test it first. http://download.cnet.com/MP3-to-CDA-Converter-Pro/3000-2140_4-75846423.html   The second https://www.coolutils.com/online/MP3-to-CDA# is an online converter of one song at a time only, and though the url includes CDA and the heading is "MP3 to CDA - Free Online Converter", it has 5 choices of what to convert to, and CDA is not one of them! There is also a batch pc-based converter at the bottom of the page, but they say nothing about it until you pay $14   The third one is free http://www.converterlite.com/mp3-to-cda/ but in very small, light print at the bottom it says   >Clicking the download button begins installation of InstallIQ™, which manages your ConverterLite installation. Learn More. Fortunately for me, clicking download didn't begin anything but download and "Learn More" is a dead link. Still, I'm a little afraid to click on the install program.   >You may be offered to install the File Association Manager. For more information click here.   this Click Here page is not found either.   >You may be offered to install the Yahoo Toolbar.   I guess I can say no to these two lines.   Another one is "Free Download"@   I will check reviews of the program. They're not great. I'll try the first one, and when that doesn't work I'll spend the $45!

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Oct 09 02:17PM -0400 On 10/08/2017 05:54 PM, Neon John wrote: > place, populate the rest of the board and reflow. Both my vision and > my steadiness of hand have declined over the past few years and this > is how I compensated.   Technique I've used occasionally that so far has always seemed to work pretty good for soldering say 14 or 16 pin SOIC "surfboards":   Use regular soldering iron and thin 60/40 solder to tin the pads. Put the IC down using tweezers and "tack" the top left and bottom right to the board. Apply pressure on the center of the IC using a jeweler's screwdriver with one hand (wear a protective glove!) while blasting the pins on one side of the IC with hot air from a lightweight heat gun for about 10 seconds, back and forth until you visibly see the solder on the pads go shiny. Remove heat and hold for another 15 seconds or so, then remove pressure and let cool for about a minute. Then repeat for the other side.   Then continuity test from the junction of the pin and the package to the hole on the board for the mounting hardware. Meter should beep just from light contact without applying any pressure at all from the probe to the pin. Sometimes there's one pin that didn't quite get a solid connection and won't test for continuity without pushing down a bit, but a single pin is easy to touch up by hand.

Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Oct 09 02:13PM -0500 Dave M wrote:   > SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a > challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a > soldering iron steady enough to build the boards. I have a toaster oven converted to a reflow oven with a ramp and soak temperature controller. But, for one-offs, I do not use it.   To do manual assembly by reflow, first you need to apply solder paste to the board, either dot by dot or with a stencil. Then, you need to apply ALL the parts. If you just TOUCH the sufrace of the board, you will knock parts out of alignment. I can't imagine placing dozens of parts with tweezers without knocking them out of place. I do this with my pick and place machine, but I just take the board off the P&P and straight into the oven, with no fiddling around with the board. I really don't think this is a sane way to do SMT.   Using a good head-mounted magnifier (or better, a stereo zoom microscope!!) you can easily place the parts and solder. I put a dab of solder on one pad of each part location, tack the part down and then solder the other lead(s). I've been doing this for years for one-offs, it is faster than through-hole.   Jon

krw@notreal.com: Oct 09 09:35PM -0400 On Mon, 9 Oct 2017 14:17:15 -0400, bitrex >> is how I compensated.   >Technique I've used occasionally that so far has always seemed to work >pretty good for soldering say 14 or 16 pin SOIC "surfboards":   SOICs are a piece of cake. They're *huge*.   >pads go shiny. Remove heat and hold for another 15 seconds or so, then >remove pressure and let cool for about a minute. Then repeat for the >other side.   Remove all solder from all of the pins except one, then tack that pin down and position the part. Go around and solder the rest. Yes, I always use leaded solder (being careful to remove all of the socialist solder from all pads). >pin. Sometimes there's one pin that didn't quite get a solid connection >and won't test for continuity without pushing down a bit, but a single >pin is easy to touch up by hand.   Your soldering technique needs work if you have to test continuity.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Oct 09 10:20AM -0700 >> change anything it can be wired to isolate the two bulbs from each other >> more easily than fitting a relay in there.   > That's what I first looked at, but the relay was much cheaper and most importantly, keeps the outward appearance the same. There's also plenty of room inside this thing.   I think your assessment is correct, that the two lamps that have the ballast side of their filaments connected together may be the problem. It is odd as I'm sure thousands of these lights were made and would have worked correctly with the wiring as you showed.   Let's see what happens once you get the relay wired in.   >> described. They should. You do press and hold the button until the ends >> of the tubes glow for a second, right?   > Oh yeah. I pressed and held it, and both ends of both bulbs begin glowing white. When I release it, one lights, and the other has this very dim flicker that decays within a few seconds. The interesting thing is one end of one bulb randomly flickers while holding start. Now whether that's the one that doesn't start, I didn't think to observe until now.   Randomly flickering on one bulb when the start is pressed suggests a problem with a connection to the bulb. I'd look into that more.   More info on fluorescent lamps that you will ever need to know, but they talk about lag time which may have a bearing...   http://sound.whsites.net/lamps/fluorescent.html   John :-#)#     -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 09 03:13PM -0700 > > would have added that, wouldn't have been there originally), remove the > > ground   > Interesting. It does have the original cord but I've considered putting a grounded cord on there because I started wondering about the safety of this thing should something internally touch the enclosure. For what it's worth, is does the same even with the innards laying out on a table.   The electrical properties of fluorescent tubes plus their method of starting makes what you see happening inevitable. The circuit is a complete bodge. The solution is to separate the tubes at the ballast end, requiring a 2 pole push switch.

arc.aezakmi@gmail.com: Oct 09 02:03PM -0700 arc.aezakmi@gmail.com

Peter Easthope <petereasthope@gmail.com>: Oct 09 12:16PM -0700 > the H sync freq for NTSC color is 15.734 kHz. > what is it for PAL?   In a few days I'll be at the site again and see what can be learned with the scope.   Thanks, ... Peter E.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 09 09:52AM -0700 On Thursday, September 21, 2017 at 5:17:37 PM UTC-4, Foxs Mercantile wrote:   -- Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.   This was once at the bottom of every one of Mike's posts.   One wonders how he could have voted for a draft-dodging moron?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 09 12:45PM -0500 > One wonders how he could have voted for a draft-dodging moron?   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Situational ethics. The perfect excuse of a scoundrel.   When you buy into all the bullshit about the Clintons, the rest is easy.   Apparently the original list of 20 "murders" attributed to them wasn't enough. The number ratcheted up to 60 and again, now it's 151 or so.   Snopes has debunked every one of them. Of course to people like Mike, that just proves that Snopes is part of a vast left wing conspiracy.   And of course, the "child sex ring" nonsense.   ya know, for all his chest beating about how smart he is, I can't understand how he's that stupid.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

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