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Joe Chisolm <jchisolm6@earthlink.net>: Oct 09 11:41AM -0500 On Sun, 08 Oct 2017 15:40:58 -0500, Dave M wrote:   > enough to make it work.   > Hope someone can give good advice   > Dave M   I have one and it works OK. I've done hundreds of boards through it over the years. The instructions are typical chopped up English but understandable and there are vidoes on the net you can watch. It's bulky. You really need about 24in x 24 in work space with good ventlation. No problem doing 2 sided boards.   You can program custom profiles and depending on the paste my need one. The profiles can be hard to setup. It does an OK job following the profile but if you hold a temp too long (say board soak) and then try and ramp up the hold temp will fall below at the end and then over shoot on the up hill side. Once you get the profile set correctly it will do a OK job.     Do not expect to fill it to the edge with a board. You will not get good soldering at the edges if you do. I think it's 300×320mm max but you really need to think in the 280x300mm range max.   If you are only doing a few boards once in a while use the hotplate method. The T962 is big and heavy and will just be collecting dust and in the way. But if you have the room it will work fine for you.   Remember you are gonna need paste. I've had good luck with these guys   http://www.chipquik.com/store/   -- Chisolm Republic of Texas

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Oct 09 07:13AM -0700 > I should clarify a few things.   > -I already purchased new bulbs. The old ones worked but were very dim.   I suspect you have Rapid Start bulbs that are self starting. What is the code number of the bulbs you used?     > -The ballasts each measure about 30 ohms. I have not yet put an inductance meter on them but my guess is they are good.   A quick ballast test is to power up the fixture then read the ballast side against the other side of the line - should be around 130VAC. If it show 115 (or whatever your AC source is) then the ballast is bad.     > -I connected the bulbs using jumper wires to eliminate bad connections in the sockets. No change.   > -If I install only one bulb with everything wired as it originally was, that one always starts. If I remove it and install the other bulb in the other bulb socket pair, that one also always starts. With both in circuit, I've never seen them both start, only one does.   Try grounding the metal frame of the fixture. Or if grounded (someone would have added that, wouldn't have been there originally), remove the ground     > -With both bulbs in circuit one specific bulb tends to start, but randomly the other does instead.   > -If I separate out each bulb-ballast circuit so they look like completely independent fixtures and start each manually by temporarily shorting the one bulb pin at each end, each starts and runs no problem. So that's why I believe both ballasts are good.   True.     > The part of the original circuit I'm having trouble dealing with is how the bulbs are permanently connected at the same end as the ballast connection. It seems one bulb could steal the start pulse from both ballasts, hence the reason for the issue. But then again this was designed this way and supposedly would work?   The bulbs are only connected to the non-ballast line side when the button is pressed. Otherwise the interconnections can't conduct current as they are on the same side of the line for each bulb.     > I have a DPDT relay on the way to isolate each starting switch and that will fix it, but did these desk lamps ever intend to work correctly? Seems odd..   Why not use a DPDT push button switch? While I don't think it will change anything it can be wired to isolate the two bulbs from each other more easily than fitting a relay in there.     It is odd, I agree, that both bulbs won't light if everything is as described. They should. You do press and hold the button until the ends of the tubes glow for a second, right?   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

hondgm@yahoo.com: Oct 09 08:31AM -0700 On Monday, October 9, 2017 at 9:13:34 AM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:   > > -I already purchased new bulbs. The old ones worked but were very dim.   > I suspect you have Rapid Start bulbs that are self starting. What is the > code number of the bulbs you used?   It's item# 147940 from Lowe's, and the specs say they are not rapid start.     > Try grounding the metal frame of the fixture. Or if grounded (someone > would have added that, wouldn't have been there originally), remove the > ground   Interesting. It does have the original cord but I've considered putting a grounded cord on there because I started wondering about the safety of this thing should something internally touch the enclosure. For what it's worth, is does the same even with the innards laying out on a table.     > The bulbs are only connected to the non-ballast line side when the > button is pressed. Otherwise the interconnections can't conduct current > as they are on the same side of the line for each bulb.   I was most concerned about the ballast side of the bulbs where they essentially connect together through the heater/filament even when start isn't pressed. That seems like not such a good design and maybe why the problem is occurring.     > Why not use a DPDT push button switch? While I don't think it will > change anything it can be wired to isolate the two bulbs from each other > more easily than fitting a relay in there.   That's what I first looked at, but the relay was much cheaper and most importantly, keeps the outward appearance the same. There's also plenty of room inside this thing.     > It is odd, I agree, that both bulbs won't light if everything is as > described. They should. You do press and hold the button until the ends > of the tubes glow for a second, right?   Oh yeah. I pressed and held it, and both ends of both bulbs begin glowing white. When I release it, one lights, and the other has this very dim flicker that decays within a few seconds. The interesting thing is one end of one bulb randomly flickers while holding start. Now whether that's the one that doesn't start, I didn't think to observe until now.

Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net>: Oct 09 11:56AM -0400 >> (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) >> www.flippers.com >> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."   This may sound stupid but did you check you line voltage where you are doing this testing?

hondgm@yahoo.com: Oct 09 09:13AM -0700 On Monday, October 9, 2017 at 10:56:17 AM UTC-5, Tom Biasi wrote: > >> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."   > This may sound stupid but did you check you line voltage where you are > doing this testing?   It's near 120VAC as it should be. It's in my house plugged into a regular outlet.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 09 10:57AM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Mon, 25 Sep 2017 08:34:43 +1000, Trevor   >**No, it doesn't. USB (Universal Serial Bus) is a digital connection >system. Any audio signal present is in a digital form and must be >converted to analogue, before it can be heard.   It took a while for this to sink in but I think you're right. Maybe the adapter has some converter. It's coming from China and it's made it to California and will arrive in a week, and I'll know then. ;-)   Otherwise, I think I can convert the mp3's to .cda's though I haven't found a converter yet that will do a whole directory, not just one at a time.   .cda's are iirc 4 times as big as .mp3's but flash drives are so big now the only problem is the time it takes to convert things.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 09 04:47AM -0700 On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last, and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron.   In this world of sin and sorrow there is always something to be thankful for; as for me, I rejoice that I am not a Republican.   H.L. Mencken

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