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N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Oct 25 02:31PM +0100 This is on an Abney Level , a simple surveying instrument for taking levels around a site or off a datum. Over time the bubble enlarges and so less and less accurate sighting of the centre of the bubble. This one , the glass cylinder is cemented in a brass holding barrel. One end , where molten glass is somehow sealed over the contents of the cylinder, is accessible. Breaking away the cement at that end , probably broke away the glass , or maybe had fractured with temp or vibration, causing the large bubble to form. Anyway easy to refill vertically using a hypodermic syringe. But how to seal up, as still recessed inside the brass cylinder. I'm thinking of a drop of nail varnish over the full to the brim spirit. Then a few more layers of nail varnish to build up a bit. I'm hoping there will be enough "dissolved" air to settle out and form a bubble. Anyone done this or similar, or any hints?

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 26 08:43AM -0700 On Thursday, October 26, 2017 at 11:33:40 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote: > I'm hoping there will be enough "dissolved" air to settle out and form a > bubble. > Anyone done this or similar, or any hints?   http://www.antiquesurveying.com/precision_ground_glass_spirit_le.htm   Given the need for absolute accuracy - otherwise the instrument is entirely useless - you may want to replace it entirely. Then there is re-installation and calibrating. I 'came up' on on optical transits... fun.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Oct 25 09:26PM -0400 micky wrote on 10/25/2017 9:15 PM: > as a wrench did with the hex nut, and pliers will scratch it up.   > I could find an old hex nut, but I'd rather use the pretty round one, > if I can.   Use some cloth to cover the nut and then use pliers. Just don't grip too tightly or it can tear through the cloth.   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

Tom Kupp <tjkupp@gmail.com>: Oct 25 09:29PM -0400 On 10/25/2017 09:15 PM, micky wrote: > as a wrench did with the hex nut, and pliers will scratch it up.   > I could find an old hex nut, but I'd rather use the pretty round one, > if I can.   Of course, there is a special tool.

Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net>: Oct 25 09:31PM -0400 On 10/25/2017 9:15 PM, micky wrote: > as a wrench did with the hex nut, and pliers will scratch it up.   > I could find an old hex nut, but I'd rather use the pretty round one, > if I can.   https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nut-Repeir-Tool-8mm-19mm-Combination-Spanners-Ring-Socket-Wrench-Chrome-Metric/122724855004?hash=item1c92f8acdc:m:mgIWbOly0GtHvDqDUV16oGQ

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 25 09:15PM -0400 I need to put a momentary on switch in my dashboard, and the one I bought doesn't have a hex nut for the top nut but a round serrated ring to hold the switch in place.   How do you tighten this? I don't see how fingers can do as good a job as a wrench did with the hex nut, and pliers will scratch it up.   I could find an old hex nut, but I'd rather use the pretty round one, if I can.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 25 10:02PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Wed, 25 Oct 2017 21:26:58 -0400, rickman >> if I can.   >Use some cloth to cover the nut and then use pliers. Just don't grip too >tightly or it can tear through the cloth.   Okay, I'll do that. Maybe I can just hold the nut that way and turn the hex nut behind the dash next to the box below the radio and above the consoleradio. In this case, I'll have access to it.   It's interesting to learn, Tom, that there is a special tool   Thanks all.

Tom Kupp <tjkupp@gmail.com>: Oct 26 09:12AM -0400 On 10/25/2017 09:31 PM, Tom Biasi wrote:   >> I could find an old hex nut, but I'd  rather use the pretty round one, >> if I can.   > https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nut-Repeir-Tool-8mm-19mm-Combination-Spanners-Ring-Socket-Wrench-Chrome-Metric/122724855004?hash=item1c92f8acdc:m:mgIWbOly0GtHvDqDUV16oGQ   If you google "serrated switch nut wrench" you'll see a bunch of possibilities. The one I used to use is at https://www.amazon.com/StewMac-Adjustable-Toggle-Switch-Wrench/dp/B01HYB9TEU/ref=pd_sim_267_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01HYB9TEU&pd_rd_r=5ZKQEEADRF7QRVHXVW7F&pd_rd_w=57jD8&pd_rd_wg=06hGL&psc=1&refRID=5ZKQEEADRF7QRVHXVW7F

brewercorey98@gmail.com: Oct 25 04:46PM -0700 Hi all. Recently picked up a selectric. Initially the machine wouldn't turn on, but once I removed the cover and manually rotated and broke loose the centrifugal clutch attached to the motor and belt, it turned on. Apparently they can get like this after sitting for a long time and accumulating gunk and what not. Anyways after I broke it loose the motor ran, but the clutch immediately started slipping in the belt when trying to engage. I cleaned the clutch off really thoroughly. I even compared it to another clutch I have on a different Selectric. They both look exactly the same in every way. And that clutch works. So I'm having a tough time believing that it's the clutch that's bad. Now the carriage on the machine is stuck all the way on the left side and I cannot pull it to the right to save my life. Basically I can't tell if the clutch isn't letting the inner shaft rotate because it's broken, or something in the inner shaft mechanisms are jammed up and that's what is causing the clutch to slip as it takes too much force for the clutch to handle. Is this happening because the carriage is stuck on the left side? And if so, how can I release it manually? Any information would be greatly appreciated! Thanks all!

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 25 08:08PM -0500 > Recently picked up a selectric.   Glad to see I'm not the only one with these things. I have 5-6 of them, one I bought used in 1989. I have a bunch of ribbons and assorted golf balls too.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Oct 22 11:50AM +1100 > Hi all. Recently picked up a selectric. Initially the machine wouldn't turn on, but once I removed the cover and manually rotated and broke loose the centrifugal clutch attached to the motor and belt, it turned on. Apparently they can get like this after sitting for a long time and accumulating gunk and what not. Anyways after I broke it loose the motor ran, but the clutch immediately started slipping in the belt when trying to engage. I cleaned the clutch off really thoroughly. I even compared it to another clutch I have on a different Selectric. They both look exactly the same in every way. And that clutch works. So I'm having a tough time believing that it's the clutch that's bad. Now the carriage on the machine is stuck all the way on the left side and I cannot pull it to the right to save my life. Basically I can't tell if the clutch isn't letting the inner shaft rotate because it's broken, or something in the inner shaft mechanisms are jammed up and that's what is causing the clutch to slip as it takes too much force for the clutch to handle. Is this happening because the carriage is stuck on the left side? And if so, how can I release it manually? Any information would be greatly appreciated! Thanks all!   It sounds like gunky stuck bearings on whatever the clutch drives. IIRC it's a roller, that drives any individual striker whose friction pad touches it. You could try getting some Penetrene into the bearings, but the right fix is to disassemble, clean and lubricate it.

brewercorey98@gmail.com: Oct 25 06:17PM -0700 On Wednesday, October 25, 2017 at 8:14:44 PM UTC-5, Clifford Heath wrote: > friction pad touches it. You could try getting some Penetrene > into the bearings, but the right fix is to disassemble, clean > and lubricate it.   Thanks for the advice sir! Where might these rollers be located on the machine?

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Oct 22 02:52PM +1100 >> into the bearings, but the right fix is to disassemble, clean >> and lubricate it.   > Thanks for the advice sir! Where might these rollers be located on the machine?   I was wrong - the Selectric is a golf-ball mechanism, not the older style of IBM electric typewriter. It doesn't have the same kind of drive. Sorry for that.   Still, gunky bearings is still my best bet. Figure out what turns fastest, and/or has greatest load, and lubricate it well with light penetrating oil. Leave it a day or three to soak, and if you can get the motor to run freely, leave it running a while.   The only real problem with this is that light oil will wash away the grease that's intended to keep the thing lubricated. You should find a way to re-lube it properly.   Clifford Heath.

brewercorey98@gmail.com: Oct 25 10:52PM -0700 On Wednesday, October 25, 2017 at 11:17:05 PM UTC-5, Clifford Heath wrote: > away the grease that's intended to keep the thing lubricated. > You should find a way to re-lube it properly.   > Clifford Heath.   Thanks for the input! Greatly appreciated!

mhooker32@gmail.com: Oct 25 11:43PM -0700 > > You should find a way to re-lube it properly.   > > Clifford Heath.   > Thanks for the input! Greatly appreciated!   heat is often a good solution, it will soften and liquify the dried grease. a hot air gun, or even a soldering iron can do the trick

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Oct 25 11:32PM -0700 <et...@whidbey.com> wrote in message news:nhlsucplg180lvqcb37i0m6mu613oav4no@4ax.com... > fuller the ink is absorbed more slowly so it is easy to tell when the > cart is almost full. Much easier than my home printer where I have to > add ink through a drilled hole using a syringe.   A b&w laser no-ink printer does seem like the best bet.

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