- How to tighten round nut on swtich? - 9 Updates
- OT: refilling a spirit level bubble. - 5 Updates
- A Stereo Receiver Question - 1 Update
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Oct 26 07:16PM +0100 On 26/10/2017 02:15, micky wrote: > as a wrench did with the hex nut, and pliers will scratch it up. > I could find an old hex nut, but I'd rather use the pretty round one, > if I can. Rob a hex from anothe switch, or grind 2 diametric notches and use circlip pliers |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Oct 26 11:39AM -0700 On 2017/10/25 7:02 PM, micky wrote: > consoleradio. In this case, I'll have access to it. > It's interesting to learn, Tom, that there is a special tool > Thanks all. The cloth is more to protect the surface of the panel the switch is mounted to than to protect the knurled round nut you are trying to tighten. If you can tighten the hex nut underneath that is better of course! A split or star lock washer is good between the hex nut and panel... John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
| "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>: Oct 26 05:48PM -0500 I have a driver for those knurled nuts, bought it about 40 years ago, still going strong, very similar to Ebay item 252720374881 A few others that should work (or not): Ebay item 321503159614 Another Ebay item: 282599004397 I can vouch for the driver that I have... it never fails, doesn't mar the nut or the panel. Cheers, Dave M micky wrote: |
| rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Oct 26 09:01PM -0400 John Robertson wrote on 10/26/2017 2:39 PM: >> Thanks all. > The cloth is more to protect the surface of the panel the switch is mounted > to than to protect the knurled round nut you are trying to tighten. I'm not sure what that means. It will protect whatever you put it over. I use a cloth when tightening plumbing hardware that often is chrome plated. That can require some heavy tools and a cloth works great as long as it is not too thin and tears. > If you > can tighten the hex nut underneath that is better of course! A split or star > lock washer is good between the hex nut and panel... Yes, if you can get to the back nut, that would not only prevent scratches, but let you set the switch protrusion from the panel to exactly the right amount. -- Rick C Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998 |
| micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 26 11:58PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Thu, 26 Oct 2017 21:01:17 -0400, rickman >use a cloth when tightening plumbing hardware that often is chrome plated. >That can require some heavy tools and a cloth works great as long as it is >not too thin and tears. I'm glad you reminded me about that, because it's been a long time since prior experiences. It was in high school I think that I changed a washer or two in the bathroom and I used a fairl heavy cloth, but squeezed too hard and scratched the chrome. I think it was only a little, but memory plays tricks on mpeople. And it didn't tear the cloth but it still scratched, and that surprised me. >Yes, if you can get to the back nut, that would not only prevent scratches, >but let you set the switch protrusion from the panel to exactly the right >amount. It was a new switch, and I have a set of bits by the 64th of an inch, and I found one, probably a 64th less than what is normally used, so that I had to force the switch into the hole. Then I tightened the round nut fairly tightly just with my fingers, but I can see it whenever I'm driving and if it gets loose I'll notice it and use pliers or something. Everything went well, this switch to open the trunk** when the key is in Acc or On, a third cigarette light closer to the driver, a fourth cigarette lighter that is always on, for charging the phone etc. without leaving the keys in the car. And I cut the wire from the speedometer to the convertible top motor, so I can put the top up or down when going 5 mph, instead of being limited to zero up to now. Everything left of the kick panel was really hard to get to, even to see what color wire was on a relay. And especially the wire to the trunk motor. The book said it was white with a blue stripe, but first I couldn't find the connector. When I did I couldnt' see the farthest row of wires, except for the one on the end. After 10 minutes I decided to cut open the harness near the floor, and once inside, there was no white wire with a blue stripe, but there was an all white wire. Unfortunately there was an all white wire in the other sheath also, a little thicker. I pried away all the wires to the right relay just to look at the wire I wanted and it appeared to be all white also. So I stuck a pin in one of the two at the floor and measured the voltage when I used the remote to open the trunk. The first one, the thinner one, showed an impulse every time, reaching iirc 12 volts, but almost a second later than I heard the clunk of the trunk opening. Digital meter. Anyhow, I cut the wire and, as urged here, put a diode in between the two halves so that when I gave it a 12v jolt from the new switch, it wouldn't get back to the body control module. And one more thing, the constant beeping when the driver's door is open, the key is in the ignition, and the engine is not running. Someone on ToyotaNation said he put a switch in, and I guess that would have been no harder than the trunk, but I decided to take out the door switch to look at it, and all I had to do was turn the screw 2 or 3 full turns and the beeping stopped. It seems the screw's head is part of the ground for the switch. so I fixed everything that was wrong with the car except that it doesn't run well. :-) |
| mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Oct 26 10:26PM -0700 On 10/26/2017 8:58 PM, micky wrote: > the switch. > so I fixed everything that was wrong with the car except that it doesn't > run well. :-) I worry about the unintended consequences of my actions when disabling safety features. It might become an issue when someone else drives your car. I'm sure you will never let anyone else drive your car...until it happens. The person who buys it at your estate sale might be surprised when he accidentally pops the top at highway speed. |
| micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 27 12:05PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Thu, 26 Oct 2017 17:48:38 -0500, "Dave M" >I have a driver for those knurled nuts, bought it about 40 years ago, still >going strong, very similar to Ebay item 252720374881 Looks good, but $30 for one nut is hard to spend. I should have bought this 40 years ago. >A few others that should work (or not): >Another Ebay item: 282599004397 Interesting that this is the second hit I've seen related to guitars and nuts. Those guitar guys must spend a lot of time on their switches. Also, very good photos of the product, heehee. And $12 is more affordable. >Ebay item 321503159614 This makes the 3rd guitar item, and looks like a better idea than the one just above. And only $10. That's a serious possibility. But the photos aren't as good. Thanks all. |
| micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 27 12:19PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Thu, 26 Oct 2017 22:26:38 -0700, mike >I worry about the unintended consequences of my actions when disabling >safety features. >It might become an issue when someone else drives your car. No one else drives my car. >I'm sure you will never let anyone else drive your car...until it Oh, you expected that! >happens. The person who buys it at your estate sale might be surprised >when he accidentally pops the top at highway speed. If I'm still alive, I'll tell the new owner. If I'm not, he still has to press the top button. Very unlikely to happen by accident. Until 1995 or later, none of the cars had this device. They probably had one or two incidents out of millions sold. Probably not collisions but cases where the wind bent the mechanism. I didnt' try to put the top up or down when the car was moving for the first 10 years, but I've done it for 40 years now, thousands of times, and getting along with out it has been quite a nuisance. Also, sometimes on the highway when it's starting to rain, I can slow to 5 or 10mph which is still enough to keep the rain off the front seat, and maybe the rear seat, and start putting up the top, so after I slow more (before the top is high enough to really catch the wind) it only takes a couple more seconds to put the top all the way up so I don't get rained on. This has happened several times. Anyhow, it's done now and it would be much harder to reverse it than it was to do it. |
| Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net>: Oct 27 12:23PM -0400 On 10/26/2017 11:58 PM, micky wrote: > squeezed too hard and scratched the chrome. I think it was only a > little, but memory plays tricks on mpeople. And it didn't tear the > cloth but it still scratched, and that surprised me. That's why they make strap wrenches. |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Oct 26 07:15PM +0100 > Given the need for absolute accuracy - otherwise the instrument is entirely useless - you may want to replace it entirely. Then there is re-installation and calibrating. I 'came up' on on optical transits... fun. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA Calibration is the easy bit, a 5km professional laser-levelled pair of fixed points locally about 150m apart. A few layers of nail varnish worked , for today, but I somehow doubt itwill be long-term reliable. Surveyed to a benchmark 100m away, to obtain the height, wrt Ordnance Survey datum. GPS , even dGPS is a waste of space in comparison to optical or laser levelling to good old benchmarks. |
| Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Oct 26 01:17PM -0700 On Thursday, October 26, 2017 at 2:15:07 PM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote: > itwill be long-term reliable. Surveyed to a benchmark 100m away, to > obtain the height, wrt Ordnance Survey datum. GPS , even dGPS is a waste > of space in comparison to optical or laser levelling to good old benchmarks. Unless you have a warm air layer in between refracting your line of sight. |
| Rheilly Phoull <froggins@iinet.net.au>: Oct 27 07:33AM +0800 On 25/10/2017 9:31 PM, N_Cook wrote: > I'm hoping there will be enough "dissolved" air to settle out and form a > bubble. > Anyone done this or similar, or any hints? I reckon a blob of silicon would complete the seal. |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Oct 27 08:06AM +0100 On 27/10/2017 00:33, Rheilly Phoull wrote: >> a bubble. >> Anyone done this or similar, or any hints? > I reckon a blob of silicon would complete the seal. I might try that next time. The resultant bubble was a bit larger than I'd have liked, so next time leave to settle for a few hours, before topping up with spirit and then sealing over. I should say I've no access to a pro laser level and sensing staff but when there were anti-flood measures put in place locally, I got them to place a nail in the flood wall at a specific height relative to a distant specific level. Otherwise presuambly a matter of going to the coast , Abney placed near a calm sea edge and sighting the horizon. |
| bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Oct 27 07:49AM -0700 Tim R wrote: >> obtain the height, wrt Ordnance Survey datum. GPS , even dGPS is a waste >> of space in comparison to optical or laser levelling to good old benchmarks. >Unless you have a warm air layer in between refracting your line of sight. Working near a very, very hot room and opening the doors to the cold, cold outside can cause that visual effect. |
| Ken <Ken@invalid.com>: Oct 27 08:40AM -0500 I have an Insignia IS-HC040917 Stereo Receiver, a 6 channel 5.1 vintage. I use it primarily for FM, playing CD's, and input from the TV via the optical input. It does NOT have HDMI. Recently I noticed what sounded like AC hum from all the speakers when there was a pause in the input. The hum was not there when no signal was input, and only after the receiver had been on for about 30 minutes. I thought since it is an old receiver that perhaps the filter caps (10000 uf 63v) in the bridge rectifier section for the +&- 50v were perhaps weak. I changed them and that did not solve the problem. After a more thorough visual examination of the receiver and some research on the Internet, I discovered a couple of .1 uf caps (placed across each of the bridge diodes) that had opened. My research said this was commonly done to suppress noise on a system by smoothing out the transition of the diodes in the bridge. I was looking for ripple on the 50v, but it appears the noise was being picked up further down the line in the latter stages of amplification. I am confident I have solved my problem, but the question is this: Why did the hum not show up immediately upon turning on the receiver rather than after 1/2 hour? I enjoy solving a problem, but I always like to fully understand it. Thanks. |
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