- What are some car-repair jobs you always wished you could do but have never done? - 5 Updates
- Lumix DMC TZ20, lens problem - 1 Update
- Repairing an S-Video cable - 1 Update
| rbowman <bowman@montana.com>: Nov 04 08:30AM -0600 On 11/04/2017 07:00 AM, RS Wood wrote: > the sandblaster, and the welder (but I bought gas welding equipment which > turned out to be a mistake because the skill set needed is great compared > to arc welding on thin metal with wires below them). I've been going to get a gas setup with the portable tanks. I used to be okay but it's been a long time. Gas is more versatile and works anywhere you can drag the tanks but the inexpensive point and shoot wire machines do make life easy over stick welding. |
| rbowman <bowman@montana.com>: Nov 04 08:36AM -0600 On 11/04/2017 08:02 AM, Mike_Duffy wrote: >> the zone between sober but shaky and falling down drunk. > I know who you mean. My Dad took care of his dog while he did a few months > in the slammer for DUI. I don't know if the new paints and HVLP guns are any better but the guys shooting lacquer had half a buzz on to start with. The shooting isn't bad but the prep, prep, and more prep followed by sand, sand, and more sand and then buff and buff gets to me. I can only massage the same car so many times before I'm utterly bored. |
| rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Nov 04 12:19PM -0400 RS Wood wrote on 11/4/2017 9:00 AM: > I reflected that the car still works fine without the bolt, but there is no > way they put that bolt there in the first place if it didn't do anything. > He didn't believe me. I guess that's why he is repairing cars instead of designing them. He should be introduced to the bean counters in Detroit. They'll explain why that bolt is there because if the designers couldn't explain it to the bean counters, it wouldn't be there. -- Rick C Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998 |
| rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Nov 04 12:24PM -0400 RS Wood wrote on 11/4/2017 9:00 AM: > But I've never replaced an engine mostly because I never drove an engine > into the ground that needed to be replaced. I envy people who have done it > because it must feel great to put a new engine in yourself. Same here. Any car of mine that needed an engine wasn't worth putting an engine in. Older cars were not made to last and that was true for every part of that car. Even things like seats and headliners were shot by the time the engine was shot. My current truck has 240,000 miles on it and the engine is one of a number of parts that shows nearly no sign of going anytime soon. The parts that have been repaired often were not repaired right so some have needed repairing more than once, but otherwise the truck is very sound. -- Rick C Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998 |
| Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Nov 04 12:38PM -0400 On 11/4/2017 12:24 PM, rickman wrote: > of going anytime soon. The parts that have been repaired often were not > repaired right so some have needed repairing more than once, but > otherwise the truck is very sound. Evidently you never owned a Buick or Olds with the 3.8 engine from the early 80's. I know of many being rebuilt/replaced. I had the engine replaced on my '83 Cutlass and drove it until the next one died. The car had 130,00+ miles. Not sure how many as the odometer stopped working. I was determined to drive it until it does. Left work one day, started the car, drove 3 feet and it died. Took the company pickup home and stopped at a car dealer on the way and bought another car. |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 04 02:20PM Charity shop, sold as seen, acquisition as potentially 16x optical zoom with gyro lens servo stabilisation. Works all functions but zoom only out to about x4, above that then a gear tooth jumping noise , then "zoom error" and have to power down. Assuming it was dropped or something , when the lens was extended, what will i likely find inside. Good SM with dismantling out there. Stripped rack?, something bent?, no internal noses of broken bits. Never dealt with one of these complex barrel in barrel in barrel lenses , but am willing to give it a go. |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 03 06:57PM -0700 On Fri, 3 Nov 2017 10:50:01 -0700 (PDT), crickethomecams@gmail.com wrote: >On Saturday, August 22, 2009 at 11:56:50 AM UTC-4, M.Joshi wrote: Ah, a 2009 vintage question, aged to perfection. >> Does anyone know of an easy method to detect where the break might be >> in the cable before I cut the other connector? Capacitance meter. Measure the capacitance to ground for each lead at both ends of the cable. The ratio of capcitances will give you the location of the break. For example, if you get 15PF at one end and 40PF at the other on a 36 inch long cable, the break is at: 15 / (15+40) * 36 = 9.8 inches >s-video cables are cheap... buy a new one Yeah, but that's too easy and not any fun. You don't learn anything by simply replacing it. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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