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Seymore4Head <no@none.invalid>: Nov 01 02:54PM -0400 Does a clock radio use more power in the aux mode than off mode?   I listen to my phone over the stereo speakers from my clock. If I just unplug the phone and leave the radio in aux mode will it use more power?

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 01 12:12PM -0700 On Wednesday, November 1, 2017 at 2:58:11 PM UTC-4, Seymore4Head wrote:   > I listen to my phone over the stereo speakers from my clock. If I > just unplug the phone and leave the radio in aux mode will it use more > power?   Some small (very small) fraction more, as the amplifier section is active.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tschw10117@gmail.com: Nov 01 12:25PM -0700 On Wednesday, November 1, 2017 at 1:58:11 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:   > I listen to my phone over the stereo speakers from my clock. If I > just unplug the phone and leave the radio in aux mode will it use more > power?   Possibly, it depends on how power-conscious the designer was. The amplifier may power down with no input signal. One clue may be to put your ear to the speakers, with no input signal, and listen for amplifier white noise. Turn the volume way up.   It may not apply to your radio, but there are very strict efficiency requirements on most modern appliances. Even wall-warts (a major source of wasted energy) are now required to limit quiescent current (no load) to mere microamps.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 01 12:32PM -0700 > > power?   > Possibly, it depends on how power-conscious the designer was. The amplifier may power down with no input signal. One clue may be to put your ear to the speakers, with no input signal, and listen for amplifier white noise. Turn the volume way up.   > It may not apply to your radio, but there are very strict efficiency requirements on most modern appliances. Even wall-warts (a major source of wasted energy) are now required to limit quiescent current (no load) to mere microamps.   Most?, Washing machines & dishwashers yes, what else? Wallwarts & TVs have quiescent power limits, but I don't remember any efficiency requirement.     NT

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Nov 01 04:18PM -0400 >> It may not apply to your radio, but there are very strict efficiency requirements on most modern appliances. Even wall-warts (a major source of wasted energy) are now required to limit quiescent current (no load) to mere microamps.   > Most?, Washing machines & dishwashers yes, what else? > Wallwarts & TVs have quiescent power limits, but I don't remember any efficiency requirement.   Wallwarts are pointless to regulate. I often see blurbs from power companies and other sources talking about the wasted power in power "vampires". If you can't feel them being hot, they aren't wasting enough power to even think about. The extra heat your brain generates while thinking about such things amounts to more power than the wall warts waste.   In comparison, a 7 watt night lite which before LEDs were often left on all the time, would burn your fingers if you touched it. 7 watts left on 24/7 would cost $0.50 to $0.75 a month. So if your wall wart is barely warm to the touch it likely is well under a dime a month.   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 01 01:54PM -0700 Wallwarts are pointless to regulate.   Agreed. I once, for giggles, did a full survey of "Vampire" loads in our house - a 3-story, 4,200 s.f. center-hall colonial built in 1890, with the usual assortment of items, LED clocks, wall-warts, stand-by systems and more.   Came in at 59 watts, or nearly-so.   59 x 24 x 365/1000 x 0.14 = $72.36. Annually. $6.03 per month.   For which I do not have to re-calibrate the televisions, re-program the tuners, reset any clocks, reprogram the boiler settings, reset the alarm clocks and much more (or less, as it happens, to be done). Yes, in some cases I need to do this after a sustained power failure, but we get blessedly few of those since Sandy (6 days).   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tschw10117@gmail.com: Nov 01 02:39PM -0700 Freezers, refrigerators, dryers, furnaces & ACs, anything with a motor... all currently have or will have efficiency goals (requirements may be the wrong term) in order to get that coveted "Energy Star" logo.. and yes they seem silly in many cases. Manufacturers feel pressured to display that "Energy Star" logo.... but it does add cost and complexity, and does not generally contribute to reliability.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 01 04:39PM -0700 On Wednesday, 1 November 2017 20:18:23 UTC, rickman wrote: > the time, would burn your fingers if you touched it. 7 watts left on 24/7 > would cost $0.50 to $0.75 a month. So if your wall wart is barely warm to > the touch it likely is well under a dime a month.   Oh quite. I once worked out that going round switching them off every day would save 12p per hour of labour. It's politics innit.     NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 01 04:42PM -0700 On Wednesday, 1 November 2017 21:39:28 UTC, tschw...@gmail.com wrote: NT:   > > Most?, Washing machines & dishwashers yes, what else? > > Wallwarts & TVs have quiescent power limits, but I don't remember any efficiency requirement.   > Freezers, refrigerators, dryers, furnaces & ACs, anything with a motor... all currently have or will have efficiency goals (requirements may be the wrong term) in order to get that coveted "Energy Star" logo.. and yes they seem silly in many cases. Manufacturers feel pressured to display that "Energy Star" logo.... but it does add cost and complexity, and does not generally contribute to reliability.   refrigeration & boilers yes, we don't have AC to any significant extent here. But items with motors aren't regulated afaik. Food processor, blender, soup maker, numerous power tools, vacuum cleaners, I don't see them boast any sort of energy sipping approval here. Or microwaves.     NT

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Nov 02 11:34AM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Wed, 1 Nov 2017 13:54:46 -0700 (PDT),   >Agreed. I once, for giggles, did a full survey of "Vampire" loads in our house - a 3-story, 4,200 s.f. center-hall colonial built in 1890, with the usual assortment of items, LED clocks, wall-warts, stand-by systems and more.   >Came in at 59 watts, or nearly-so.   >59 x 24 x 365/1000 x 0.14 = $72.36. Annually. $6.03 per month.   That you can afford to pay it does not mean it's not a waste.   If it were $1000/month but you were a billionaire, would you think that was not waste?   Muliply it by the 2 million people who live near you, or the 300 million people who live in the US.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Nov 02 11:37AM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Wed, 1 Nov 2017 16:39:09 -0700 (PDT), >> would cost $0.50 to $0.75 a month. So if your wall wart is barely warm to >> the touch it likely is well under a dime a month.   >Oh quite. I once worked out that going round switching them off every day   And the goal of redesigning t he devices is so that "going round switching them off" will not be necessary.   > would save 12p per hour of labour. It's politics innit.   No, it's not politics. It's a different outlook on what's important.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

jeff.panasuk@cfl.rr.com: Nov 02 06:43AM -0700 Raster is solid. Picture shifts horizontally from normal to oversize then back.   Upon power up from a cold state the horizontal size will shift or jitter, fairly steadily, by about 5% from normal size to over size. Most noticeable by watching part of the caption text going off screen-like during football games. Most of the time it briefly shifts oversize then pulls back to normal. This action if very frequent though on power-on. As it warms up it will go from a steady shifting to an intermittent state. Sometimes it will even stabilize to normal as the tv on-time increases. Much less frequently it will stabilize to an oversize state. Vertical size is solid.   The raster size both vertically and horizontally is always solid. You only see the problem when video is applied. When video is applied the picture window size is solid (full screen) but the video is shifting in that window from normal to oversized.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Nov 02 09:16AM -0400 The devices that plug into the cigarette lighter and play sound from a USB drive through car radio speakers have the ability to remember where they left off, and, even when power is removed from them when the car is turned off, they restart from the start of the file or segment, often the start of a song, that had been playing when the car was turned off.   My question is, How does the device keep track of where to start up again. Is there a file written to the device that plugs into the cigarette lighter, or is it written to the USB drive? If to the device itself, will it look for a specific file name if a different USB drive is plugged in, or can it be fooled then into trying to play song 6, for example, on a different usb drive.   I could experiment to learn this stuff but I just don't have any time to do that before or during my upcoming car trip, and you might already know. Plus I wanted to tell you how great these things are if your car radio doesn't have a USB or 3.5mm input. See background.     Similar question about MP3 players. If one inputs to the car radio via the 3.5mm jack, it seems that the intermediate device can't keep track of anything, but the mp3 player can. Obviously, the information is stored in the MP3 player, but without my having to test, does anyone know if separate positions are kept for "music", "ebooks", and "podcasts"?. If so, that provides some versatility, and I could for example, put popular music in music, classical music in ebooks and broadway shows in podcasts. Or science podcasts in ebooks and history podcasts in podcasts.     Background: My 2005 Toyota seems to have been made just a year or two before it would have been possible to connect USB and 3.5mm inputs to its radio, using the CD changer or satellite port.   I wanted that because in that case the steering wheel controls would likely have controlled what was playing on a USB drive, and the song information would have displayed on the radio.   But since I couldn't have that, it turns out, except for the quality of the microphone (which might reflect more the acoustics of the car. The sound from the microphone is very intelligible, but my friend whom I called is good at being critical) the devices that plug into a cigarette lighter and communicate with RF do an amazing job. And they cost only about 16 to 22 dollars. One very compact one is only 11. I can give you specific urls if you want, but much of the difference is what will work best physically in your own car, depending on where the lighter is and what direction the opening points.   Other differences are whether they have a USB input, a USB charging port, a 3.5mm input, a TF input, a 1" square screen or less, and whether they will also connect with bluetooth to your cell phone. If they do the latter, they have a button that will answer the phone and hang up, and they use their own built-in microphone and the car radio speakers.       --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

"BurfordTJustice" <burford/associate@uk.MI15>: Nov 02 09:25AM -0400 another fool that can not use a search engine.... stay in your Safe place...billy bob.         "micky" <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in message news:vq4mvch5coogltn1c6r2nejr3212ki5j0c@4ax.com... : : The devices that plug into

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Nov 01 11:09PM -0700 rickman wrote:   > > cloth isn't good for such things, as it's full of holes and most cloth collapses very easily. Card is better.   > Whatever. I use pieces of old jeans and have not had any problems. Denim > is good stuff for many uses.   I think I remember reading that you can soak your clothes in Pepsi or Coke to remove oil stains.

harry newton <harry@is.invalid>: Nov 01 06:48PM He who is Jeff Liebermann said on Wed, 01 Nov 2017 08:45:13 -0700:   > controlled by the country code setting. Anything sold in the USA is > suppose to be "locked" to US power limits: > <https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/td/docs/wireless/wcs/3-2/configuration/guide/wcscfg32/wcscod.pdf>   Thanks for that chart Jeff, as my Ubiquiti equipment, bought in the USA whole, can only set itself to the USA, Canada, and, I think, Mexico (I'd have to look) whereas my similar Mikrotik equipment (but bought as boards and assembled in the USA) can be set to any one of 200 odd countries.   > If it's point to point, that's legal.   That explains the enigma, because it's certainly *saying* the EIRP is 48 decibels! <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/01/wifi.jpg   > The fade margin, headroom, SOM (system operating margin), Eb/No > (energy per bit / spectral noise density), SNR (signal to noise > ratio), or whatever you wish to call it, varies with the data rate.   Yes. I know. And I know you know. I've seen all the datasheets, as have you. For others though, here's a datasheet for just the radio part of my Ubiquiti Rocket M2 setup (where the antenna is 24 dBi added to that). <https://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/rocketm/RocketM_DS.pdf>   > The faster you go, the more fade margin you need for a constant BER > (bit error rate) or PER (packet error rate). It also varies with > modulation method.   Yup. As a rule of thumb, I look for 12 to 15 dBm "headroom" to solve all those complexities. :)   > <http://www.eletrica.ufpr.br/evelio/TE111/Eb_N0.pdf>   Heh heh .... looking at the author's comments, I knew an electrical engineer pHd named Bob Pease in the valley.   Same guy?   Tall. Thin. Sharp featured. Nerdy as hell. Don't ever get caught in a corner with the guy discussing diffraction of electromagnetic beams!   Not like you or me. You looked like a hippy parks guy, while I look like a pocket-protected balding computer nerd.   > 12 9.0 > 9 7.8 > 6 6.0   Well, what's interesting about your numbers is that sometimes it needed a *lot* less than my rule of thumb, and sometimes it needed a lot more.   Sigh. Such are rules of thumb. Luckily, the setup I showed has the requisite headroom to handle the values in your chart!   > Nope. I don't think you understand the problem. The structure of the > configuration files might change between firmware versions.   OK. I belatedly get it. While it has never happened to me, I belatedly understand your heart-felt advice to be wary of such changes.   Since I only use a small subset of Ubiquiti and Mikrotik stuff, and mostly a very small subset of Ubiquiti radios, in practice, that hasn't happened *to me*.   It has happened to me on Android, Linux, iOS, Windows, etc., but not on AirOS or WinBox, yet.   > it's something subtle, like the length of the field length in an > array. If you restore the previously saved configuration file, you're > putting everything back the way it was before it became screwed up.   See above. I agree. In principle. Luckily, setting up a radio is easy most of the time. a. It's either an access point, b. Or it's a station (e.g., the barn cam)   > firmware, not whatever is lurking in your saved config file. To play > it safe, after a few surprises, I only restore config files to the a > device with the same firmware that was used to create it.   You have far too much real-world experience with such radios! I have less experience in what can go wrong!   I appreciate the clarifying advice! Thanks.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 01 10:43AM -0700 On Sunday, October 9, 2011 at 9:24:38 AM UTC-4, James wrote: > Hello,   > Please can anyone tell me the reset procedure for a Bosch Exxcel 1400 > washing machine?   First: Manual here:   https://www.google.com/search?q=Bosch+Exxcel+1400&oq=Bosch+Exxcel+1400&aqs=chrome..69i57.1914j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8   We have a Bosch dishwasher - and early on, it glitched similar to what you have experienced. Bosch Factory Service (1-800-944-2904) told us, as follows:   Unplug/remove power from the unit. Press and hold the START button for thirty (30) seconds. Wait thirty seconds and repeat (do not plug in).   Wait thirty seconds, then plug in. It worked, and the unit has been trouble-free for nearly nine years of average twice-weekly use.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Michael A Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Nov 01 02:23PM -0400 > Unplug/remove power from the unit. > Press and hold the START button for thirty (30) seconds. Wait thirty seconds and repeat (do not plug in).   > Wait thirty seconds, then plug in. It worked, and the unit has been trouble-free for nearly nine years of average twice-weekly use.       Do you think he is still waiting for a reply, after six years?

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