| John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Nov 02 12:16PM -0700 There's this guy that hangs around recycling in his town and he brings me stuff to fix. A lot of what he brings in is virtually new - it's amazing what people throw away. The other day he brought in what looks like a vintage Ampeg bass speaker cabinet in rough cosmetic shape (name gone), but it has an undamaged 15" speaker installed. It has a 3/4 jack for the input. It has a large square magnet and the numbers on the driver are 5815026 137 544. My oldest son plays bass in a band but this speaker seems more suited for lower power tube amps. Is this good for a practice amp or better suited for repurposing the cabinet (which is otherwise structurally sound)? |
| Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Nov 03 10:35AM +1100 On 03/11/17 06:16, John-Del wrote: > There's this guy that hangs around recycling in his town and he brings me stuff to fix. A lot of what he brings in is virtually new - it's amazing what people throw away. The other day he brought in what looks like a vintage Ampeg bass speaker cabinet in rough cosmetic shape (name gone), but it has an undamaged 15" speaker installed. It has a 3/4 jack for the input. It has a large square magnet and the numbers on the driver are 5815026 137 544. > My oldest son plays bass in a band but this speaker seems more suited for lower power tube amps. Is this good for a practice amp or better suited for repurposing the cabinet (which is otherwise structurally sound)? Can you post a photo somewhere? My first bass amp had a 40W valve push-pull output stage, home-built by an EE friend of my father as a (mono) sound system sometime in the '50s. It drove a 15" speaker and a mid-range horn in a beautifully constructed case the size of a washing machine. The speaker had a powered field coil! The whole thing was terribly inefficient by today's standards. If yours is anything like it I recommend you chuck it and buy a driver that has modern magnetics. Also, Phil Allison can probably tell you more about your Ampeg. His knowledge of such things is legendary. Clifford Heath. |
| oldschool@tubes.com: Nov 02 06:55PM -0600 On Fri, 3 Nov 2017 10:35:35 +1100, Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net> wrote: >Also, Phil Allison can probably tell you more about your >Ampeg. His knowledge of such things is legendary. >Clifford Heath. Those old powered magnets worked fine, but if the speaker is bad and needs to be replaced, that magnet usually also served as a choke in the power supply. This means you cant just eliminate it. You have to either keep the speaker magnet connected (but not the voice coil), or install a choke where the speaker coil was connected. Installing a choke across those two wires is not difficult, but I am not sure how to determine the choke's size (capacity). Maybe someone else here will know how to do that. I personally never changed one, but I saw another guy do it (many years ago), and he explained why. He did not explain how to get the right size choke though and back then, I did not bother to ask. I dont know how critical this is..... maybe it's not critical at all, as long as the choke can handle the voltage and amperage. Then again, maybe all those speakers had the same magnet/choke rating. Any speaker can be reconed too, as long as the frame is not distorted. |
| Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 02 08:00PM -0500 > Then again, maybe all those speakers had the same > magnet/choke rating. I guess in your hurry to post, you missed the part where John said it had a large _magnet_. -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com |
| Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Nov 03 12:25PM +1100 On 03/11/17 12:00, Foxs Mercantile wrote: >> magnet/choke rating. > I guess in your hurry to post, you missed the part > where John said it had a large _magnet_. Mine was an electromagnet... which is still a magnet. But I didn't suggest that his was. Just that magnets are so much better now, which means efficiency is. Also... as a filter in the power supply? Because yeah, the one place you really want all that filtered-out 100Hz energy is in your speaker :) Or perhaps it was arranged so that enough got through to the amp to cancel it out? Crazy stuff anyhow. Clifford Heath. |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 02 07:16PM -0700 Clifford Heath wrote: --------------------- > Can you post a photo somewhere? > Also, Phil Allison can probably tell you more about your > Ampeg. His knowledge of such things is legendary. ** 1960s Ampegs were not sold in Australia, we had a thriving industry in home grown guitar and bass amps back then. The model in question may well be an Ampeg B15N using a B15NC cabinet fitted with a 15inch Jensen or CTS speaker with square ceramic magnet. See pics and details here: https://www.talkbass.com/wiki/technical-speaker-cabinet/ .... Phil |
| Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 02 09:25PM -0500 On 11/2/2017 8:25 PM, Clifford Heath wrote: > 100Hz energy is in your speaker :) Or perhaps it was > arranged so that enough got through to the amp to > cancel it out? Crazy stuff anyhow. Electro-dynamic speakers had the filed coil which doubled as the power supply filter choke. Alon with the voice coil, there was a hum-bucking coil that canceled the residual hum from the field winding. Several of the vintage radios I have, have electro- dynamic speakers. -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 02 07:31PM -0700 Foxs Mercantile wrote: ------------------------- > doubled as the power supply filter choke. > Alon with the voice coil, there was a hum-bucking coil > that canceled the residual hum from the field winding. ** See link for discussion and details of ED speaker background hum. https://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/background_hum_with_electrodynamic_loudspeakers.html ..... Phil |
| Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Nov 03 05:48PM +1100 On 03/11/17 13:31, Phil Allison wrote: >> that canceled the residual hum from the field winding. > ** See link for discussion and details of ED speaker background hum. > https://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/background_hum_with_electrodynamic_loudspeakers.html Interesting, thanks Phil. I figured there must be some hum-bucking. |
| jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 02 02:50PM -0700 These days you have to make sure it is not the station doing it. |
| bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Nov 02 10:52PM -0700 That might be a good idea. Just call one of the stations. |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 02 09:43AM -0700 On Thursday, 2 November 2017 15:37:32 UTC, micky wrote: > >Oh quite. I once worked out that going round switching them off every day > And the goal of redesigning t he devices is so that "going round > switching them off" will not be necessary. It isn't necessary with iron lump warts either, so that can't be the goal > > would save 12p per hour of labour. It's politics innit. > No, it's not politics. It's a different outlook on what's important. Whe someone insists everyone else works for 12p an hour in the first world, that is certainly politics. NT |
| rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Nov 02 02:10PM -0400 >>> would save 12p per hour of labour. It's politics innit. >> No, it's not politics. It's a different outlook on what's important. > Whe someone insists everyone else works for 12p an hour in the first world, that is certainly politics. What??? How does requiring low power in appliances mandate that you run around your house unplugging things? -- Rick C Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998 |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 02 11:10AM -0700 On Thursday, November 2, 2017 at 11:35:16 AM UTC-4, micky wrote: > was not waste? > Muliply it by the 2 million people who live near you, or the 300 million > people who live in the US. Lemme see - do you reset your alarm clock every day? Or do you use your cell phone? Takes about 3 minutes. Do you recalibrate your flat-screen TV every day? Takes about 10 minutes. Do you reset your stereo tuner memory every day? Takes about 5 minutes. Do you reset the clocks on your stove and microwave every day? Or just not use them at all? Takes about 2 minutes. EVERY DAY. 10 x 30 = 300 minutes. 300/60 = 5 hours. That comes to me paying myself $0.3025/hour. I keep vintage audio equipment that leaves a very low current on the power-supply capacitors to avoid thumps on Start/Stop, and prevent deterioration. That is just the obvious. One electrolytic recapping on a vintage AR receiver will use about $48 worth of parts and about 2 hours in time. You bet your ass it is worth it. And, quite obviously not a waste - if that is what I want. One less visit to Starbucks each month, no hardship there. We do our part in reducing energy use overall. We keep a 4,200 s.f. house built in 1890, with 44 windows, several of them wider than five (5) feet and higher than six (6) feet. I have very nearly entirely rebuilt the heating system from the boiler out to the radiators, and between the use of thermostatic valves, a high efficiency boiler, zone sensors, and more, we keep a very comfortable house on less than $240/month average for all gas, electricity, hot water (including the water), cooking and drying (cloths line in good weather). Oh, and not to forget 30 miles per day on the plug-in hybrid. I would think that is not bad for an energy footprint, and that paying 2.5% of our total cost in convenience is not bad either. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 02 12:02PM -0700 On Thursday, 2 November 2017 18:10:15 UTC, rickman wrote: > > Whe someone insists everyone else works for 12p an hour in the first world, that is certainly politics. > What??? How does requiring low power in appliances mandate that you run > around your house unplugging things? Are you really as confused as you make out to be? |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 02 01:20PM -0700 > Are you really as confused as you make out to be? This may be as simple as a 'failure to communicate'. Here on this side of the pond we have the Energy Star system. Initially, any device could earn the rating if it performed the same function using less energy (some minimum-or-greater) differential than the average of all devices in its class. So, a Plasma TV was measured against only other Plasma TVs. And a clothes washer against other clothes washers of approximately the same type and size - and all these things *at the time of manufacture*. But comparing Macintosh apples (plasma TVs) to Gala apples (LCD tvs) to (back in the day) Granny Smith tvs (CRT devices) did not apply. Stand-alone clothes dryers, by the way, cannot earn an Energy Star. Care to guess why? Old-Style wall-warts were (are) transformers & diodes. Some have regulation and some do not. Most do not. But the transformers are substantial and pass the entire current used. Replace it with a switcher-supply and weight and cost drop, regulation is easy to achieve, and lo and behold, power consumption drops. Do that a billion times and it all adds up. In the meantime, much as many sorts of regulations written against former times, the thoughtless propaganda mongers beat their drums on the evils of wall-warts, stand-by power-supplies and create the "legend of the vampire load" and the billions it costs *you* and *me* each day, the tons of coal burnt at their altars, mercury and so on and so forth. And they *WOULD* have us putting everything on a power-strip for full shut down after each use. So, our flat-screens revert to "demo" settings - and so consume anywhere from 10% to as much as 30% more power thereby. Some savings! And, of course the nuisance value of resetting pre-sets, clocks, and and much more. Not to mention the energy and resources tied up in all those power-strips. Regulations in the year 2017 based on technological assumptions from 2005 or before are hardly meaningful. If you are that worried about this energy stuff- get rid of _EVERY_ incandescent lamp in your domicile, immediately and without exception. There is a CFL or LED device that will serve very nearly every function both aesthetically and practically. It is only money, and it will pay back without creating any additional fuss or nonsense, once done. We are well on our way - the last three significant targets are the antique chandeliers (three large crystal units that came with the house) and the matching wall sconces. That That is 72 candelabra-base lamps in all. About half are 40-watt, the rest 25-watt. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Nov 02 05:05PM -0400 >> What??? How does requiring low power in appliances mandate that you run >> around your house unplugging things? > Are you really as confused as you make out to be? If you can't understand the question that's ok. -- Rick C Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998 |
| micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Nov 02 06:51PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Thu, 2 Nov 2017 12:02:23 -0700 (PDT), >> What??? How does requiring low power in appliances mandate that you run >> around your house unplugging things? >Are you really as confused as you make out to be? Talk about confused, it seems to be you. What does promoting or even requiring low power use on idle appliances have to do with paying low wages? Nothing. So again, it's not politics to want efficient power use and/or low power waste. It's a different outlook from yours on what is important. And no one is insisting anyone turn off appliances. They're trying to make the applliances not waste power when they are still on, working or idle. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 02 05:08PM -0700 > On Thursday, November 2, 2017 at 3:02:25 PM UTC-4, tabby wrote: > > Are you really as confused as you make out to be? > This may be as simple as a 'failure to communicate'. If it were a one off, sure. It's a regular thing with Mr Rickman. NT |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 02 05:10PM -0700 On Thursday, 2 November 2017 22:52:12 UTC, micky wrote: > Talk about confused, it seems to be you. What does promoting or even > requiring low power use on idle appliances have to do with paying low > wages? Nothing. whoosh > So again, it's not politics to want efficient power > use and/or low power waste. whoosh > And no one is insisting anyone turn off appliances. They're trying to > make the applliances not waste power when they are still on, working or > idle. whoosh. Oh well. NT |
| Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Nov 03 12:27PM +1100 > On Thursday, 2 November 2017 18:10:15 UTC, rickman wrote: >> [incoherent babble] > Are you really as confused as you make out to be? I think the correct term is "congenitally baffled". He's unable to follow even the simplest lines of reasoning, and it's pointless to try. |
| mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Nov 02 12:18PM -0700 On 11/2/2017 6:25 AM, BurfordTJustice wrote: > news:vq4mvch5coogltn1c6r2nejr3212ki5j0c@4ax.com... > : > : The devices that plug into So, instead of just giving him the answer, you waste precious time of usenet users by denigrating him personally. Good job... |
| Iggy <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_11468@example.com>: Nov 02 07:44PM replying to micky, Iggy wrote: All software outside of the USB, as far as I can tell...except the cell going to the car audio, that's wiring and such too. In 1-car I had a 3.5 plug and that always jumped back to the beginning of the drive, same on the PC when I took the drive back to add more. But then, both my Radio Transmitter, in another car, and now in my new car leave off exactly where I unplugged or turned off, to the second and not to the beginning of the song. It's likely just live-logging the drive's cluster block or running an instant auto-save at the unplug/switch-off on just capacitor power. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/how-do-usb-players-keep-track-of-position-1149479-.htm |
| Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Nov 02 03:07PM -0500 micky wrote: > itself, will it look for a specific file name if a different USB drive > is plugged in, or can it be fooled then into trying to play song 6, for > example, on a different usb drive. The memory is in the car radio, not the USB device. Every time you power up the car radio, it checks some timestamp in the file system to see if there has been an update. If not, it knows where it was in the file. If it detects a change, it will rescan the whole USB device to find the new (or deleted) files. Also, I think if the battery on your car runs down, it will lose that info and have to rescan. Jon |
| "BurfordTJustice" <burford/associate@uk.MI15>: Nov 02 04:27PM -0400 Yet you did not provide the answer.....piss poor job boi. "mike" <ham789@netzero.net> wrote in message news:otfr44$21v$1@dont-email.me... : On 11/2/2017 6:25 AM, BurfordTJustice wrote: : > another fool that can not use a search engine.... : > stay in your Safe place...billy bob. : > : > : > : > : > "micky" <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in message : > news:vq4mvch5coogltn1c6r2nejr3212ki5j0c@4ax.com... : > : : > : The devices that plug into : > : > : So, instead of just giving him the answer, you waste : precious time of usenet users by denigrating him personally. : Good job... : |
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