| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 05 02:32PM rickman wrote: > I'm not so familiar with polypropylene and UV. I know most plastics are > susceptible unless additives are used. There are lots of references > available... read! Fair enough. But if someone can't just tell me the answer, then that just means one or both of two things. 1. Nobody actually knows the answer (because if they can't simplify, they don't know it). 2. The answer is known but it's so freaking complex that nobody can summarize it (see #1 above). If the answer can't be summarized *accurately*, then it's not known. So if I look it up, I'll just find out the same thing that everyone else already found out - which is that it's too complex to summarize accurately. Which was my point. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 05 02:33PM Xeno wrote: >> No, it's not.+AKA- It's still the same steel that lasts around 4 years. > Hmmm, Last car I had for 8 years, never touched the exhaust system. I'm with you on the exhaust. It's a non-maintenance part nowadays. But we *all* had to deal with exhaust in the days of yore. So kudos to the EPA for forcing stainless steel into the mix! PS: I wonder how "Midas Muffler" stays afloat? |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 05 02:35PM Xeno wrote: >>> If toe is last, then unloading, adjusting, reloading makes more sense. > BTW, how's the camber scrub issue going with your vehicle? > Get it sorted yet? You're talking to Clare, but I also reduced my rear camber from negative 2 degrees to as close to 0 degrees as the adjustment would let me go. I don't corner like a banshee, so, the positive effect I see is even rear tire wear. Woo hoo! Gotta love being able to change alignment to suit your needs! I just wish I could have done that on my own, without paying $100 for someone else to twist a bolt that I could have twisted myself. |
| Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Nov 05 09:35AM -0500 On 11/5/2017 9:11 AM, RS Wood wrote: > I have to agree with you that if I knew a vehicle had a belt, and > especially if it was an interference engine, for me, that car would be > nearly worthless. I'd never buy one. Built in hefty expense. > Just like FWD cars and tricked-out cars are, to me, nearly worthless. FWD serves a purpose from what I was told. I got to ride in a Chevy Lumina about 6 months before anyone saw them. My friend's SIL works for GM and was driving one as part of road testing. He said the main reason for FWD was it can be built for $50 a car less. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 05 02:36PM Xeno wrote: >> If toe is last, then unloading, adjusting, reloading makes more sense. > Toe is last. Adjustments to camber will alter toe. Adjustments to toe > will not alter camber. Thanks. The way I'll remember it is Caster -> Camber -> Toe. |
| rbowman <bowman@montana.com>: Nov 05 07:39AM -0700 On 11/5/2017 7:11 AM, RS Wood wrote: > especially if it was an interference engine, for me, that car would be > nearly worthless. > Just like FWD cars and tricked-out cars are, to me, nearly worthless. My first front wheel drive was an Audi 100LS in the early '70s. It was a learning experience both for me and Volkswagen. My ex traded it for a Rabbit and got $400 on the trade. I've come to like them. They do well in snow. |
| rbowman <bowman@montana.com>: Nov 05 07:42AM -0700 On 11/4/2017 10:36 PM, RS Wood wrote: > the time, was a screwin dial gage for the number 1 cylinder and a buzzer > for the points to let you know when they opened. > Nothing fancy needed by way of tools other than that. Valve adjustment with shims under the bucket can be painful. Fortunately my Harley has hydraulic lifters and the DR650 has screw adjusters. I checked the DL650 last year and it was still in spec. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 05 02:42PM The Real Bev wrote: > Caddy. Slight vibration when braking, but they felt OK. Until 2 of the > calipers seized 8 years later, of course :-( POS, I'll never own > another GM product. That wasn't rotor warp. I know that because it's almost never rotor warp on a street vehicle. Anyone who says a street rotor warped isn't following their own logic. It's like people who point out studies that cellphone use is as dangerous as kicking a sleeping rhino, therefore cellphone use while driving causes accidents. They don't even follow their own logic when they say stuff like that. Hence, if someone suggests your rotors warped, keep your eye on them, and slowly at first, just like you would with a sleeping rhino, step backward, slowly, slowly, then a bit faster, and faster, and when you think you're far enough away, turn around and run like a banshee! > These looked like a high-school first-time lathe project. Each of the > steel projections on the backing plate had dug out its own trench. Look up the spec for grooves. It's enormous. I'm not saying grooves and gouges can't fail a rotor. I'm saying they have to be the size of the Grand Canyon to exceed specs. What fails rotors the most (by far) is thickness. > Godawful noise, but the brakes still worked fine so I figured I could > wait another month :-( (Not the Caddy, this was a 68/9 LTD.) Some pads are rated EE for cold/hot friction. Guess what steel on steel friction is? Yup. E. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 05 02:46PM Xeno wrote: > You understand the efficacy of slotted and/or drilled rotors the first > time you experience brake fade. Nope. Not gonna buy it. You'll have to sell that elixer elsewhere. I have read too much practical stuff to believe in marketing bullshit. Removing metal is not the best way to dissipate heat in a rotor. I get the surface area stuff. I do. I get the water-runoff stuff. I do. I get the lighter rotor stuff. I do. Mass is what matters when you want to dissipate heat, all else (e.g., airflow over the rotors). Why do you think the biggest spec for failing rotors is thickness? Let's not just talk. If you really think that removing mass is the way to make rotors run cooler, then just show me a valid reference that agrees with your point of view. (Not marketing bullshit please.) |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 05 02:47PM Ed Pawlowski wrote: > Lumina about 6 months before anyone saw them. My friend's SIL works for > GM and was driving one as part of road testing. He said the main reason > for FWD was it can be built for $50 a car less. There is one and only one reason the manufacturers put in FWD. And it's not handling. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 05 02:48PM Ed Pawlowski wrote: > Lumina about 6 months before anyone saw them. My friend's SIL works for > GM and was driving one as part of road testing. He said the main reason > for FWD was it can be built for $50 a car less You're completely right. There is one and only one reason the manufacturers put in FWD. And it's not handling. However, I would have thought the cost saving was a *lot* more than $50. Are you sure it's not closer to $1000? |
| Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Nov 05 09:50AM -0500 On 11/4/2017 11:32 PM, RS Wood wrote: > pumps in the process. > I still don't see how the *gas* has anything to do with engines lasting > longer. Maybe it does, but I don't see the connection. Coupled with better rings, you get less blow by into the crankcase less oil contamination.. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 05 02:55PM rbowman wrote: > Valve adjustment with shims under the bucket can be painful. Fortunately > my Harley has hydraulic lifters and the DR650 has screw adjusters. I > checked the DL650 last year and it was still in spec. I just blew the dust off my tuneup toolbox (which is built like a vault). <https://i.imgur.com/15legK6.jpg> All I needed was the feeler gauges at the top, plus some Suzuki shims: <https://i.imgur.com/XSW3lhK.jpg> And this yellow screw-in dial gauge for the #1 cylinder in mm-before-tdc: <https://i.imgur.com/qkPfJ8e.jpg> |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 05 03:05PM Ed Pawlowski wrote: >> longer. Maybe it does, but I don't see the connection. > Coupled with better rings, you get less blow by into the crankcase less > oil contamination.. Hmmmmm...... better rings? Are you trying to pull a fast one on me? I am a logical thinker. That doesn't mean I'm always (or even ever) right. I'm just logical. So the "better rings" has to be better ... somehow ... in some way. Where a piston ring is a pretty simple thing (in practice). NOTE: Just as with spark plugs, there is some engineer somewhere who knows everything there is to know about designing piston rings, so I know everything is complex at the design phase. But a ring is a ring is a ring is a ring. AFAIK. Pray tell ... what on earth do you think is *better* about a ring of steel today from that same ring of steel of yesteryear? |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 05 03:13PM rbowman wrote: > learning experience both for me and Volkswagen. My ex traded it for a > Rabbit and got $400 on the trade. I've come to like them. They do well > in snow. There is one reason for FWD's predominance, and only one reason. And that reason was *never* handling. The whole handling thing was a MARKETING red herring so that the hoi polloi would *think* handling is the determining factor. The only question is how much did the manufacturer save on FWD. Someone mentioned it was only $50 but I would have guessed at $1000. Anyone know how much cheaper it is for them to build FWD cars? |
| Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Nov 05 10:33AM -0500 On 11/4/2017 11:32 PM, RS Wood wrote: > airplanes and they seem to do fine with them (small planes that is). > While EFI is great stuff, I don't see that the longevity of an engine is > dependent on the fuel volatilization method. It may be minor in the scheme of things, but EFI is much better at dosing the fuel. Running rich from the choke you can be dumping in raw fuel and washing lubricant away, blow by into the crankcase. Especially bad if you had a sticking choke. Back in the day of manual choke, people often left them full on way too long. > yesterday. It just can't be. They just did a lousy job before, I think. > But then again, painting is a job I never did, so, maybe I didn't learn > anything! :) OMG, painting has drastically change. Part due to better technology, part do to new paint formula as mandated by DEP to eliminate VOCs. Solvent paint is gone in favor of water based. Now your car is accurately covered by a robot rather than a guy with a hangover. Up to about 1923 cars were painted with a brush. |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 05 07:51AM -0800 On Sunday, 5 November 2017 14:08:18 UTC, RS Wood wrote: > But not for cars. > I'm not sure what you mean by "logic probe" for a circa 50s, 60s, 70s car. > Do you have an example on the net? They won't be any use for that era of car :) They were too illogical. NT |
| Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Nov 05 11:03AM -0500 On 11/5/2017 1:29 AM, RS Wood wrote: > If that works, I'm ok with that. > Simplicity is good. When it exists. > Still ... what about UV coating? Most are not coated but have inhibitors added to the plastic compounds. The trash bin is an investment for the trash company that must maintain and replace them if damaged. They want quality that will last. Homeowners are looking for price and no matter how good or bad the item is, many will be tossing it out soon anyway. Low price, high profit is the incentive in choosing material. |
| rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Nov 05 11:06AM -0500 RS Wood wrote on 11/5/2017 9:32 AM: > So if I look it up, I'll just find out the same thing that everyone else > already found out - which is that it's too complex to summarize accurately. > Which was my point. It's not complex. I don't get what you are saying. I know some specific plastics that are suitable for outdoor use as I have indicated. Picking a single one is like asking which metal is best? If your requirements are complex it's a complex answer. If you just want a plastic table it's not a complex answer. Ask Tonka what plastic they make their outdoor stuff out of. I'm pretty sure they pick a plastic that won't fall apart for many years. My kayaks are HDPE with UV stabilizers added. I have an HDPE canoe that has been on my dock in the sun for well over a decade. BTW, what was the question? -- Rick C Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998 |
| Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Nov 05 11:12AM -0500 On 11/5/2017 12:40 AM, rickman wrote: >> I thought the whole thing from the cat back was stainless steel. >> Is it not? > No, it's not. It's still the same steel that lasts around 4 years. My '91 Buick was traded in with the original exhaust at 15 years, but it was starting to go. I honestly do not remember the last time I had to replace a muffler or pipe as most are SS now and last a long time. |
| Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Nov 05 11:15AM -0500 On 11/5/2017 12:48 AM, RS Wood wrote: >> was here." Pat is one of my son's friends who NEVER had the right tool. > I think they should make adjustable wrenches illegal. > I can't for the life of me figure out a use for them. You take an adjustible with you when you don't know what size you will need. If you get lucky, 50% of the time it will work but 50% of the time you go back for a box or open end. |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 05 01:07AM -0700 > stuff. > There is another site which is called bootdisk.com. There you can get > everything you need to make a Dos bootdisk. Putting 98se on an old machine originally licensed for it should be ok. Putting it on a modern machine will get you in trouble from the get-go, it won't run. 98 can't cope with >512M RAM, nor address >128G HDD, nor does it do NTFS or ext3/4. Nor does it natively handle USB adequately. The good news is there is a long list of patches available to make it all work, some from MS some 3rd party. The bad news is that applying them all will take well north of a day's work. So put it on old hardware if you can find it. Thank god we have better now. NT |
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