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tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 13 09:11AM -0800 On Monday, 13 November 2017 15:15:55 UTC, Frank wrote:   > And I'm sure some customers back then would call the BBB, if not the > State's Attorney, if the radio repair man replaced a cap before it had > gone up in smoke.   He probably did what was appropriate at the time. Expectations and what's considered correct do change.     NT

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 13 11:00AM -0800 On the far side of the Pond, few know of Mad Man Muntz. His habit was to go into his skunk-works and when presented with a new design, he would start cutting out parts until whatever it was stopped working. AKA - Muntzing:   From Wikipedia:   He invented the practice that came to be known as Muntzing, which involved simplifying otherwise complicated electronic devices. Muntz produced and marketed the first black-and-white television receivers to sell for less than $100, and created one of the earliest functional widescreen projection TVs.[3] He was credited with coining the abbreviation "TV" for television,[4] although the term had earlier been in use in call letters for stations such as WCBS-TV. A high school dropout,[5] Muntz made fortunes by selling automobiles, TV receivers, and car stereos and tapes.[6] A 1968 Los Angeles Times article noted that in one year he sold $72 million worth of cars, that five years later he sold $55 million worth of TV receivers, and that in 1967 he sold $30 million worth of car stereos and tapes.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 13 01:02PM -0600 On 11/13/2017 9:15 AM, Frank wrote:   > OK, he's an experienced hack. I'm sure more than one serviceman was > snipping out potentially troublesome, yet non-essential, caps back in > yesteryear.   There was NO shortage of hacks that would do as little as possible.       -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>: Nov 13 09:38PM On Mon, 13 Nov 2017 00:21:56 -0600, oldschool wrote:   big snip   > That's deceiving. It's called a MICAmold. That would tell me that it's a > MICA cap.   another big snip   Micamold is the name of the manufacturer as several others have already said. They made mica capacitors that were as good as anyone else's, but they also made paper capacitors in a similar style case which are as bad as anyone else's. Then again, they also made resistors in an elongated version of the same case with three color dots. These need to be tested along with all the other vintage resistors in a set. They may have made other parts as well that I am not aware of (yet).   Other manufacturers also made paper capacitors in domino style packages; there is a color code option identifying them.   Some mica capacitors had the value stamped on them either with ink or pressed into the plastic. If the ink on a capacitor faded or rubbed off, then it would be unmarked. That's where a schematic is useful.   -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com   To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eggmen. Then replace nospam with expressmail. Lastly, replace com with dk.

oldschool@tubes.com: Nov 13 10:00PM -0600 >version of the same case with three color dots. These need to be tested >along with all the other vintage resistors in a set. They may have made >other parts as well that I am not aware of (yet).   Getting paper caps into that shape must have been a trick. They are not just rolled like the tubular ones. Considering the time they were made, I am wondering what the material is for that case (coating). I'm thinking bakelite, which was one of the first plastics and a lot of other electrical stuff was made from bakelite in that time period, like light fixtures, wall switches, and more. It seemed to be a good product though. A lot of the old fixtures and stuff is still in use.   >Other manufacturers also made paper capacitors in domino style packages; >there is a color code option identifying them.   LIke I said, I have a .jpg image I found on the web showing the dot patterns for different manufacturers. Each had variations. I think there are five types. I'd post the URL if I knew it, but I just saved the image awhile ago.   >Some mica capacitors had the value stamped on them either with ink or >pressed into the plastic. If the ink on a capacitor faded or rubbed off, >then it would be unmarked. That's where a schematic is useful.   This one has no color on the dots but has [ CA-281 ] stamped on it. I cant see how that number means anything. It's supposed to be .01 @ 600V. How CA 281 can mean anything about .01uf or 600v is beyond me. (Maybe just a manufacturers code of some sort).

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Nov 13 08:23PM -0800 On Monday, November 13, 2017 3:55PM, Frank wrote: > yesteryear.   > And I'm sure some customers back then would call the BBB, if not the > State's Attorney   Yeah sure but then, who would the triple 'B' or the D.A. have called?

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Nov 13 08:31PM -0800 >Some mica capacitors had the value stamped on them either with ink or >pressed into the plastic. If the ink on a capacitor faded or rubbed off, >then it would be unmarked. That's where a schematic is useful.   And when a ton of stuff is stolen, misplaced, burned-to-bits or just plain missing.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 14 07:33AM -0600 > This one has no color on the dots but has [ CA-281 ] > stamped on it. I cant see how that number means anything.   They didn't print that number on there for you. Several manufactures used "in-house" numbers to discourage employee theft, or reverse engineering by competitors.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

oldschool@tubes.com: Nov 14 03:16AM -0600 My modem, which I am using now, has a weird problem. It connects just fine, but there is no audio. So I dont hear the dialtone or connecting tones. It's a US Robotics 56K model 5686 V.92. However, on occasion it will suddenly make sound (volume is on high). but that lasts a few seconds and it goes silent again.   I can live without the sound, but I am used to it working on my other identical modem, and if I dont hear it, I am not sure if it's connecting. (My ISP tends to be "sleeping" every so often, so I have to dial several times to wake it up). So, that sound helps me know what's going on.   I removed the board from the case and connected it to thge computer. I found that if I apply a fairly strong downward pressure with my fingers on the potentiometer shaft, I do get sound.   I have another identical DEAD modem. I am thinking of taking the pot out of that one and swapping them. yea, I already used deoxit and put the soldering iron on the pot terminals, so it's obvious the pot itself is bad.   I'm posting this because I am a little leary to do this. This is the sort of stuff I dont normally work on. It's all surface mounted parts on both sides of the board, and so frikkin small I can barely see the solder joints even with a magnifying glass.   Since this board has traces on both sides, do I need to get the solder all the way thru the board? I've even heard of some boards having traces inside the board itself, so I guess they are laminated.   How anyone can work on this sort of thing is beyond me. I guess thats why people throw them in the trash and buy a new one. To even solder some of the tiny parts on it, would need a soldering iron tip about as thick as a sewing needle.   Fortunately this pot is on the edge of the board and has bigger terminals than most ot the other components, but it's still very small. I'd rather not risk killing the modem entirely, but I will replace the pot if I'm not dealing with a multi layered trace board.   Side note, I could probably remove the pot and just solder a resistor in place. I normally have them set at half volume and never change it once it's set.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 14 04:11AM -0800 With all due respect, leave it alone. I can almost guarantee that if you stard digging, you will wind up with two dead modems.   But, if you are insistent on doing 'something' - try tapping it or wiggling a connector and see if something is loose inside. These are mostly SMT devices - not for the faint-of-heart if not experienced *and* properly equipped.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park

Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Nov 14 08:04AM -0500 >Side note, I could probably remove the pot and just solder a resistor in >place. I normally have them set at half volume and never change it once >it's set.   Assuming the pot is open, it would be even easier and less risky to solder a resistor across its terminals without removing the pot.

wargeocarl@gmail.com: Nov 13 06:38PM -0800 I have a repair box full of 1000a parts

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Nov 14 04:32AM -0800 > I have a repair box full of 1000a parts       Then list them on ebay and don't reply to 17 year old posts. I doubt the OP even owns that toilet any longer.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 13 07:17PM -0800 On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 17:19:46 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"   >Wholey (and entirely) SH*T!!   Methinks thou doth protest too much...   >Negative Resistor: >One (any) resistor in parallel with any other resistor - the >net is less than either.   I beg to differ. The positive or negative sign refers to the V/I (Volts divided by Amps) curve, which of an ordinary, normal, and rather boring resistor is positive. However, various components and circuits will produce a negative slope, and therefore a negative resistance, usually over a small range of voltages and currents. Putting two resistors in parallel produces a different V/I slope value, but does not magically change the sign of the slope from positive to negative.   >That, ladies and gentlemen, and >children of all ages, would be a 'negative' resistor.   There are few ladies and no children that read this newsgroup. I think it's safe to say that none of the active participants could be considered gentlemen by any standard. Perhaps you could do better if you address the audience of engineers, who might find it rather disagreeable to be conglomerated with the ladies, children, and gentlemen of leisure.   >Full stop.   In California, we do a rolling stop.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

oldschool@tubes.com: Nov 13 10:10PM -0600 On Mon, 13 Nov 2017 19:17:18 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   >>Full stop.   >In California, we do a rolling stop.   Did you know that the fastest way to get pulled over by the police is to spin donuts?   Thats because there is no cop on earth who isn't looking for donuts! :)

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 14 04:07AM -0800 Ladies and Gentlemen and Children of all ages:   The call of the ringmaster at the beginning of any Ringling Brothers, Barnum and Bailey Circus. Now gone from the American scene.   if nothing else, there are aspects of the circus displayed herein.   You don't get out much, do you?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Nov 13 03:38PM -0500 On 11/07/2017 07:04 PM, bitrex wrote: > worked on. Power and output transformers both test good on my bench. > Paid $40 cash.   > <http://web.eecs.umich.edu/~srs/Antiques/templ.php?pid=147&collection=Radios>   Been an interesting repair so far. In that I haven't finished removing the chassis from the enclosure, yet. Most of the screws securing it have rusted and have stuck fast to their threads, including all the screws holding on the dial knobs. But there's no sign of other water damage anywhere; looks like it just happened from atmospheric moisture and time.   I doubt this thing has ever been opened up since it was manufactured, or nearly so.

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Nov 13 03:39PM -0500 On 11/13/2017 03:38 PM, bitrex wrote: > anywhere; looks like it just happened from atmospheric moisture and time.   > I doubt this thing has ever been opened up since it was manufactured, or > nearly so.   They're slowly unsticking and starting to turn via repeated light applications of WD-40 being worked down the holes into the threads over many days

oldschool@tubes.com: Nov 13 10:50PM -0600 On Mon, 13 Nov 2017 15:39:48 -0500, bitrex   >They're slowly unsticking and starting to turn via repeated light >applications of WD-40 being worked down the holes into the threads over >many days   I'd recommend PB Blaster over WD40. It works a lot better on cars, so I assume on radios too.   Aren't the knobs some sort of plastic? I would not think a metal screw would get stuck in plastic from rusting.

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Nov 14 06:47AM -0500 > assume on radios too.   > Aren't the knobs some sort of plastic? I would not think a metal screw > would get stuck in plastic from rusting.   Nope, all wood! As far as I can tell there are no plastic parts on this radio aside from the plug, which looks to be Bakelite or some similar early phenolic resin

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Nov 14 06:49AM -0500 On 11/14/2017 06:47 AM, bitrex wrote:   > Nope, all wood! As far as I can tell there are no plastic parts on this > radio aside from the plug, which looks to be Bakelite or some similar > early phenolic resin   Oh and the tube sockets which are also phenolic

Rheilly Phoull <froggins@iinet.net.au>: Nov 14 06:32AM +0800 >> (Now you can listen to ALL of them at once) !!! :)   > I'm all ears   > NT   Hmmm, that could be dangerous in a high wind ??

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Nov 13 06:02PM -0500 > solution:   > http://78.media.tumblr.com/971e9154425b73a47b8e28ede4a2fb60/tumblr_inline_mrnnt99phm1qz4rgp.png   > (Now you can listen to ALL of them at once) !!! :)   <https://motherboard.vice.com/en_us/article/ywzjj5/why-does-north-korea-keep-photoshopping-kim-jong-uns-ears>

makolber@yahoo.com: Nov 13 12:40PM -0800 Manufacturers feel pressured to display that "Energy Star" logo.... but it does add cost and complexity, and does not generally contribute to reliability.   and therefore costs more money and is more polluting in the long run.   m

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 13 02:01PM -0800 > > and therefore costs more money and is more polluting in the long run.   Please give reliable, verifiable, independent data to support that contention. Otherwise, it is just wishful bullshit.   Keep in mind how an "Energy Star" rating works.   https://www.energystar.gov/products/how-product-earns-energy-star-label   Read it through, if you are willing to entertain actual facts.   RANT WARNING   We replaced our boiler when we moved into our house coming up ten years ago, in early 2008. We replaced a 50% efficient 400,000 BTUH unit with a 230,000 96% efficient unit (natural gas). So, we went from 200,000 BTU delivered to 220,800 BTU delivered. This unit also makes our hot water, typically between 45% and 50% efficient. We live in a 4,200 s.f. (Net of bathrooms, hallways and the kitchen per County standards) center-hall colonial built in 1890 and with 37 radiators and 38 windows. Our annualized gas bill is a bit under $200/month, so use that. For giggles, equalize the BTU delivered. We are using 57.5 % of the gas we would be using had we left the old system in place. Divide $2,400 by 0.575 and the annual savings are $1,774/year. In 2008, the net difference between the boiler we installed and a conventional boiler (80%) was a bit under $2,200. The entire system cost about $5,200 including the indirect storage tank. I did the labor with a certified master-plumber to inspect the results. But, comes to it, a high-efficiency, modulating, condensing boiler is actually less complex to install than a conventional boiler and vents directly to the outside (about 12' away in our case).   We have saved over $15,000 over the system-in-place, paying back almost 3 x the first cost. Over a conventional boiler, we have saved over $3,000. The "energy star" is that $3,000.   Now, our present boiler has an installed dry weight of less than 200 pounds. A conventional boiler weighs 695 pounds, dry, installed. It has performed flawlessly since the day it was installed, needing no more than normal service - which as with most boilers is pretty basic. And, yes, it did require a quite-expensive additive on first-fill, but that was a one-time thing and part of the first-cost. Still testing good to-date.   As with many things, one gets what one pays for. No more. Often less. But the "energy star" thing is real.   One of the most basic problems of "modern times" is that the vast majority of the population in the United States does not remember thermal inversions over NYC or Los Angeles, or when rivers caught fire, or when water was unfit to drink (not uncommon now, either), or when black dust accumulated on window sills 'even in the country'. Or when entire rivers and lakes were 'dead' of all life. And how much effort, time and treasure it took to get back from that state. Just go to rural West Virginia and look at a top-cut coal mine if you need a reminder. That, together with the educational dumbing-down of the general population, increasing provincialism (the majority of Americans have never traveled voluntarily more than 200 miles from their birthplace, do not have a passport, have never visited a foreign country, do not have a college degree (even an Associate degree), and cannot read at an 8th grade level, and have a working vocabulary of less than 5,000 words (of over 300,000 words not including compounds or derivatives). And we are in a sorry state that has Lincoln spinning in his grave. In 2017, it is very nearly possible to actually fool all of the people (sheeple) most of the time. And the present state of our government is absolute proof of that contention. _EVERYBODY_ of my parents generation understood war. Mostly everyone of my generation has a passing acquaintance with the concept - and has observed some of its effects directly. Some fewer of us were actually under 'threat' (for lack of a better word) of having to participate, and some tiny few (not me) were required to participate directly.   How soon we forget.   Getting back to Energy Star - we have but one planet, but one environment given to us. And if we F**K it up, we are done. Full stop. Take it as an ecological Paschal's Wager: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pascal%27s_Wager   Either we do something or we do not. If the threat is real and we do nothing, we are dead. If the threat is real and we do something, we *MAY* survive. We know how bad it could be - Pittsburgh in 1963 was not a fun place. One could walk across the Hudson river without benefit of a bridge, and the Lehigh River ran orange and green, the Cuyahoga River regularly caught fire, and so forth.   End Rant   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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