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bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Dec 04 12:46PM -0500 > program always make me nervous.   > Thanks, > Eric   If all you want to do is read out the contents of a parallel EPROM and save it an Arduino-type uP should be good enough to do that with a little circuit design and code - hook cascaded binary counters to the address lines, hook data lines to the Arduino, step through each address one by one and log the data to PC over USB/serial connection.   You could then concatenate the data into a .bin file and use a program like Binwalk to analyze the firmware and find the code and data sections. A disassembler like Ida could probably then spit out a basic disassembly with C-like structure if the code is for a processor it supports.     <https://gbhackers.com/analyzing-embedded-files-and-executable-code-with-frimware-images-binwalk/>   <https://www.hex-rays.com/products/ida/processors.shtml>

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 04 04:20PM -0800 On Mon, 4 Dec 2017 12:46:12 -0500, bitrex >supports.   ><https://gbhackers.com/analyzing-embedded-files-and-executable-code-with-frimware-images-binwalk/>   ><https://www.hex-rays.com/products/ida/processors.shtml> I'm sure you could do everything you describe above but in this case I really need something that is basically plug and play. But thanks anyway. Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 04 04:28PM -0800 On Fri, 1 Dec 2017 00:33:14 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:   >remotely interested in trying to help. Nice guys too.   >Things were different pre-1995!   >John :-#(# GEEZ! I forgot to post the EPROM part numbers. They are all 2532 devices. Most are made by TI but a couple are Hitachi. Thanks, Eric

Michael A Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Dec 04 07:37PM -0500 >> John :-#(# > GEEZ! I forgot to post the EPROM part numbers. They are all 2532 > devices. Most are made by TI but a couple are Hitachi.     You can find adapters designed for Commodore 64 computers to change the 2532 wiring to 2732. They can be built with a couple IC sockets and a couple jumpers.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 04 04:39PM -0800 > devices. Most are made by TI but a couple are Hitachi. > Thanks, > Eric   2532s - those I think can be read by some inexpensive programmers, burning is another case as they are orphans as far as modern programmers are concerned.   You can read them as a 2732 if you make an adapter socket if your reader doesn't handle the 2532s. If you have an old 24 pin wire-wrap socket with long legs that is easy to use to bend the legs around to gain access to the data.   https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/8227-2532-Eprom-Adaptor   I have several tools that handle 2532s easily enough. Xeltek, Data I/O, Andromeda, and a few other programmers lying around the shop. However I think I am too far away to be useful to you.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Iggy <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_11468@example.com>: Dec 04 05:44PM replying to harry newton, Iggy wrote: Nice work on the grills! Yeah, the scratchiness is from either a separated coil or torn cone, you'll need replacement...of both while the car is finally apart, what an "engineering" mess. Auto Parts stores, Junkyards and most anywhere pertinent online from Walmart to Crutchfield ( https://www.crutchfield.com/S-VDtdeTrOHie/ ). Crutchfield's a long time car audio site (who's now expanded) with very good customer service. They can help you replace or upgrade both rears, even saving you the measuring to tell you the size for the specific car. I prefer the polymer or plastic cone speakers, much richer sound. Manufacturer speakers are usually pretty good, so don't commit to cheapies without hearing them in the car first.   -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/where-to-get-car-rear-deck-speakers-haven-t-bought-speakers-1152165-.htm

Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>: Dec 04 02:39PM -0500 On Mon, 4 Dec 2017 13:14:31 +0000 (UTC), harry newton ><http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/12/04/speakers2.jpg>   >Any suggestion on how to debug the cause of the scratchiness? >If it's the speakers themselves, are these things standard sizes nowadays?     Not "standard size" - they are often even different from mdel to madel in a brand, or year to yrear in a model.   Try scrapyard? Otherwise dealer is best bet. There are kits to put "standard" speakers in, but they are not terribly satisfactpry. O have installed non-OEM speakers by making adapter plates - basically not worth the hassle.

Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>: Dec 04 02:45PM -0500 On Mon, 04 Dec 2017 11:35:37 -0500, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote:     >No.   >>If it's the speaker, where is a good place (other than the dealer) to get   >The dealer is a terrible place. Do they even sell speakers? ;;     WEhy is it a terrible place"? -0 and of course they sell speakers. The right ones, that bolt in properly, even. Yes, they cost abit more than the ones that don't fit.   >Crutchfield. Very reliable. Very helpful on the phone with real >people. They're in Charlotte, Va. and I'm in Baltimore and I ordered >something and I wasn't in a hurry but I got it the next day.   They will likely have "universal" speakers and adapter brackets - which usually work OK - - - - -

jurb6006@gmail.com: Dec 04 12:09PM -0800 >"If there is a problem in the left channel, it will be heard in both the front and rear speaker. "   Not necessarily anymore. Many car radios now have a separate amp per speaker. The advantage is if you like bass you can crank up the rears and they can distort slightly and the front will play clean. seems like more power but it really isn't.   Delco has been doing that for a long time. In fact some of the higher end models also have anti-clipping.

Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Dec 04 12:33PM -0800 On Mon, 4 Dec 2017 13:14:31 +0000 (UTC), harry newton   >I haven't worked on speakers in decades. ><http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/12/04/speakers1.jpg>   >How do we debug a scratchy sound?   I'll defer to the expertise of others, but if you wiggle the wire does the "scratchy sound" increase?   Perhaps a speaker wire connection is less than satisfactory. Ground wire on the stereo needs to be checked -- maybe?

harry newton <harry@is.invalid>: Dec 04 08:44PM He who is Clare Snyder said on Mon, 04 Dec 2017 14:39:10 -0500:   > Not "standard size" - they are often even different from mdel to > madel in a brand, or year to yrear in a model.   Thanks for all the advice - I haven't touched speakers in decades!   I like the ideas of: a. Testing with a separate speaker (if I can find one) b. Testing by jumping the wires (shouldn't be too hard).   At this point, I'm trying to figure out what size fits.   Here is a picture of the topside of the speaker when we replaced the grill: <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/12/04/speaker5.jpg>   Here is the bottom underside in the trunk: <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/12/04/speaker6.jpg>   The kid is at college so she only comes home to the neighbor sporadically so I'm just lining up my ducks now.   Looking at the advice to call Crutchfield, they seem to be good and bad. They were very helpful. 1.844.298.3430 About $50 for two speakers.   The problem is *every* speaker they have for the 2005 Camry doesn't fit. https://www.crutchfield.com/g_400/All-Car-Speakers.html?tp=105&l=E&pg=1   The guy was helpful and said I had to make my own bracket. Huh? Why can't it just bolt in? (I'm glad I asked because I didn't expect that.)   Amazingly, they have 200 speakers they say that fit, of three sizes: 5-1/4, 6-1/2, and 6x9 (I didn't think to measure it unforutnately)   I don't have the car in hand, but apparently there are three types: a. With navigation (she doesn't have it) b. With JBL audio system (I'll have to ask - probably not) c. Without both of those (this is probably what they have)   I called the Toyota dealership and gave them the VIN where they told me their price was $298 for a single OEM Pioneer 6x9 speaker + about $30 tax, so, since I'll likely want to get a set, that would be $660 for the set.   I just can't pay that. Even for a nice neighbor's kid. It's just too much.   Since Camelback Toyota in Arizona usually has the best prices, I called them and they told me, from the VIN, that the radio is a "Fujitsu 10" and the speaker part number is 86160-AA450, they sell for half that price, at $300 for the set. https://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-pkg-tray-speaker-86160aa450/   It's back to Crutchfield I go! :)

harry newton <harry@is.invalid>: Dec 04 08:56PM He who is Oren said on Mon, 04 Dec 2017 12:33:32 -0800:   > the "scratchy sound" increase?   > Perhaps a speaker wire connection is less than satisfactory. Ground > wire on the stereo needs to be checked -- maybe?   That's a good idea to wiggle wires (I haven't done speakers in years). The car is at college so it only comes home to do laundry.   When it comes home, the neighbor will call me and I'll be ready.   What I'll do is: a. Try to find a test speaker of about 20 watts b. Make a set of jumper wires to jump one side to the other c. Wiggle the wires to see if the speaker or the radio is bad   Incidentally, after ripping out the interior in the back, the new grills from the Toyota dealer went in easily after drilling out the old heat-melted posts. <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/12/04/speaker1.jpg>   The dealer parts came with these round metal clips to fasten the posts: <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/12/04/speaker10.jpg>   We originally thought the noise was because the grill was destroyed: <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/12/04/speaker3.jpg>   I think the new speakers will have to come out through the top: <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/12/04/speaker6d52eb.jpg>

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 04 01:02PM -0800 Crutchfield. Parts-Express - both will fill the bill.   You *do not* need fancy brackets. Given the potential service life of the car, the potential service life of the speaker(s) to be used, the fact that these speakers are going into a car, and not a living-room, any means that secures the speaker reliably is fair game, and McGyver solutions are perfectly acceptable - again as long as they are secure.   https://www.parts-express.com/grs-69as-4-6-x-9-dual-cone-replacement-car-speaker-4-ohm--292-459?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla   Looks pretty close - and is also a dual-cone just like what is there.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Dec 04 02:30PM -0800 On Mon, 4 Dec 2017 20:44:17 +0000 (UTC), harry newton   >I called the Toyota dealership and gave them the VIN where they told me >their price was $298 for a single OEM Pioneer 6x9 speaker + about $30 tax, >so, since I'll likely want to get a set, that would be $660 for the set.   You can find a Pioneer 6x9 speaker for a better price than that, surely. If it fits the OEM -- why not?

Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Dec 04 02:54PM -0800 On Mon, 4 Dec 2017 20:56:03 +0000 (UTC), harry newton   >That's a good idea to wiggle wires (I haven't done speakers in years). >The car is at college so it only comes home to do laundry.   >When it comes home, the neighbor will call me and I'll be ready.   It really is a shame when college kids can't fix a scratchy sounding speaker. A speaker smarter than a snowflake. with a safe place.   WTF is the world coming to.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 04 03:02PM -0800 On Monday, 4 December 2017 22:54:12 UTC, Oren wrote:   > It really is a shame when college kids can't fix a scratchy sounding > speaker. A speaker smarter than a snowflake. with a safe place.   > WTF is the world coming to.   so tell him how

Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Dec 04 07:14PM -0500 On 12/4/2017 5:54 PM, Oren wrote:   > It really is a shame when college kids can't fix a scratchy sounding > speaker. A speaker smarter than a snowflake. with a safe place.   > WTF is the world coming to.   Hey, take it easy on the kid. He's going to have a master's degree in 4th century Greek sculpture and $70,000 in student loans. The world need people like that contributing to society don't they? Somebody has to make the fries.

jbdescartes@gmail.com: Dec 04 12:58PM -0800 On Saturday, February 26, 2000 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-5, Chris Macaulay wrote: > power amplifier. If anyone has any information on these I would appreciate > an e-mail, or reply,   > Chris Macaulay   Hi Chris, I am repairing an Alpha 450. The owner had someone ttry to use a some huge filter caps. It does not work, Sould you please send me the schematic?' THanks ' Joe

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Dec 04 03:11PM -0600 > Hi Chris, I am repairing an Alpha 450. The owner had someone ttry to use a some huge filter caps. It does not work, Sould you please send me the schematic?' > THanks ' > Joe   1. Chris didn't have the schematics to begin with. 2. Chris posted that over 17 years ago.   -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

Pimpom <Pimpom@invalid.com>: Dec 04 10:36PM +0530 >> SO just replace !   >> idem for the transistors (it dimishes the unit shipment cost).   > presumably they don't ship to india or are prohibitively expensive   That and more. Farnell and RS both have branches in India but they cater only to OEMs. I can get almost anything from AliExpress (China) and they ship quickly but transit time with free or nominal shipping charge is anywhere from 1 to 3 months.   > I'd just try one diode, accepting it might or might not work temporarily. I'd test its Vr max first, it's regularly well above rating.   I'm worried that it might cause further damage if the diode fails.   But I'd not want to leave it in there even if it works, there's some reason the OEM paid extra for a shottky.   The 1N5822 *is* a Schottky.

Pimpom <Pimpom@invalid.com>: Dec 04 11:00PM +0530 On 12/4/2017 5:40 PM, N_Cook wrote:   >> What value of resistors do you suggest? Is my idea at all feasible?   > It is the recovery time, ie frequency that is important, surely you > could rob a shottky package from some SMPS somewhere?   I have several different Schottky diodes besides the 1N5822 including types with much higher current ratings, but none with a Vr rating more than 45V. And that includes those from SMPSes.   I stock one 3A ultra-fast PN type but it's the 1000V version (UF5408) and has a high forward drop. I also have some fast-recovery types but they're probably too slow.

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Dec 04 12:35PM -0500 On 12/04/2017 12:06 PM, Pimpom wrote:   > But I'd not want to leave it in there even if it works, there's some > reason the OEM paid extra for a shottky.   > The 1N5822 *is* a Schottky.   Do you have a schematic available you can post? Is the "standby supply" a linear PSU? Could be that they just used the B3100 because that's what they had on hand in quantity and the faster recovery time is immaterial

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 04 09:49AM -0800 On Monday, 4 December 2017 17:06:29 UTC, Pimpom wrote: > free or nominal shipping charge is anywhere from 1 to 3 months.   > > I'd just try one diode, accepting it might or might not work temporarily. I'd test its Vr max first, it's regularly well above rating.   > I'm worried that it might cause further damage if the diode fails.   hence test its V_r first. It's often way higher than the specs claim. Just use diode, capacitor & resistor from the mains to apply a tiny reverse current, measuring the voltage at which it conducts. Following safe practice etc.   > But I'd not want to leave it in there even if it works, there's > some reason the OEM paid extra for a shottky.   > The 1N5822 *is* a Schottky.   my bad. It might be perfect for the job then, depending on V_r.     NT   NT

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Dec 04 07:19PM +0100 NO !   I am a lambda person.   And I am a customer of both RS and Farnell.   And yes, they do ship in India (just a question of delivery delay).         Pimpom a écrit :

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 04 10:38AM -0800 On Monday, 4 December 2017 18:19:21 UTC, Look165 wrote:   > I am a lambda person.   > And I am a customer of both RS and Farnell.   > And yes, they do ship in India (just a question of delivery delay).   Maybe visit India some time     NT

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